Renovating an apartment or building a private house involves work in the toilet and bathroom. Proper plumbing and pipe laying are important. It is designed to provide convenient placement of devices, access for repairs and an aesthetically pleasing interior.
Old metal pipes are usually replaced with products from modern materials. New equipment often differs in size, connections, and fastening. Therefore, it is necessary to think through and provide for all the nuances.
Scheme development and drawing
A well-developed plan is designed to create a unified system in the bathroom. All elements are interconnected in such a way that the use of each is convenient and effective. If the toilet is a separate room, then the pipeline installation is carried out in a single complex with the bathroom.
The finished project will allow you to evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of the future system, eliminate errors so that you do not have to redo it. It is used to calculate the required amount of materials and components, tools, bends and connections, and connection points for devices. Based on the sketch, an approximate estimate is drawn up and everything necessary is purchased.
It is more convenient and easier to draw up a diagram in several stages. They start by measuring the room with a tape measure and recording the exact data. Draw a sketch using scale. It shows the location of the doorway and plumbing fixtures. It is very important to decide on them: the installation is planned in such a way that there is enough free space. Practitioners advise cutting out conventional images and moving them around the plan to choose the most optimal place.
- shut-off and control valves, filters, fittings, valves;
- sewer;
- heated towel rail;
- counter.
The location of the pipes is marked on the paper, preventing their intersection. They do it differently if it is impossible to fulfill this requirement. The water supply and drainage lines are placed side by side so that, if necessary, they can be placed in a common box. They try to reduce the number of connections and provide free access to devices and the meter.
The scheme should not be complicated; it is performed using the simplest and most accessible method. The main communications run horizontally slightly above the floor, from them up perpendicularly water is connected to the appliances. Sewerage can be done without vertical risers, using a tee into which a corrugated hose is directed.
Choosing the right installation method
Having carefully worked out the sketch, they think about how to put the scheme into practice. There is not much to choose from; three methods are known: open, closed and combined. At first, the mains are laid along the top of the walls. It has only one advantage: easy access for repairs. The design is simpler and cheaper to manufacture. However appearance spoils the interior and does not look aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, they try to hide the pipes in boxes made of plasterboard or plastic and place them in the most secluded corners of the bathroom.
At closed installation everything is located inside the walls; only the fittings to which plumbing fixtures are connected are visible from the outside. If the wall is load-bearing, it is forbidden to tap it, so as not to weaken it. The advantage is that the appearance of the room does not deteriorate; the facing material covers communications. They are reliably protected from accidental damage, but installation takes a lot of effort and time.
The elements are first placed in casing pipes, then laid in channels made in the wall. They are sealed and leveled in one plane. A significant disadvantage of this method is that it is difficult to access if repairs are necessary. The cladding will have to be dismantled and then restored.
At combined method communications are laid on the surface of the walls and hidden in boxes made of plasterboard or under a false panel. The difficulty lies in grouping all the pipes together. The decoration must fit into the interior and correspond to the overall design. Mask using plastic, various decor and tiles.
They are thinking about how to lay the main line: use serial wiring or collector wiring. The first method is simple and straightforward. The pipes are laid in stages, connecting devices along the way. It is easy and convenient to install, but there is a significant drawback in operation. If the water pressure is weak, when several devices are turned on simultaneously, the latter may not work satisfactorily.
This plumbing layout is used in systems with a small number of consumers, or if they use a common connection to several devices. One pipe goes to the washing machine, washbasin and bathroom with a common faucet. If communications are changed after finishing work, this is the most acceptable solution.
When there are many distribution points, this type is unacceptable; a collector type is used, which is quite complex in design. Each device has its own inlet with taps, which are always available to shut off. They are located in one place, hidden in a special cabinet. The system has a minimum of connections, but will need a lot of pipes and shut-off and control valves. Work requires accurate calculation, neatness, but very convenient for possible repairs consumer devices: there is no need to completely turn off the water.
What material should be used for laying communications?
Metal pipes, previously used everywhere, are now experiencing their decline. The material has many disadvantages that make it difficult to use and install. Installation requires an experienced welder, the products are subject to corrosion. Scale and salts are deposited inside, the throughput is reduced, and the cost is considerable.
Nowadays, mostly plastic is used for wiring. It does not have the disadvantages inherent in metal, but is inferior in strength, which is not so important for use in plumbing work.
The cheapest pipes are polypropylene, they are very light and do not corrode. Their interior is smooth, making their resistance to water flow low. They are marked with the letter index PN with numbers. The latter indicate the properties of the material and the pressure that it can withstand. With numbers 10 and 16 (number of atmospheres) are used for pipelines with cold water. For hot and heating use products with designations 20 and 25.
These pipes are suitable for hidden wiring. Installation requires special equipment that is inexpensive and easy to use. The products are welded; the seams, when executed correctly, are very reliable. After testing, the grooves are covered with decorative finishing, without fear that a leak will appear somewhere.
Plastic walls, so as not to deform under the influence of load and temperature, are reinforced with aluminum or fiberglass and are thick. Massive fittings are used for connections, but everything is cheap and easy to install.
Polyethylene pipes are manufactured in various variations; they are rarely used in external wiring; they are more often laid underground. They are strong, elastic, durable. Connecting elements are quite expensive.
To make metal-plastic, several layers of polyethylene and one aluminum are used. The pipes themselves and the fittings for them are expensive, but durable, the diameter is small, they are easy to cut, bend and lay, and keep their shape. The shut-off valves are small and neat.
The sewer pipeline is made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride), which is quite rigid and suitable for installing a riser. The elements are connected using sockets and seals. They are light in weight, which simplifies installation.
Laying water supply and sewerage - basic rules
Even at the project development stage, they determine the plumbing for installation and how to route communications. Their location depends on the rooms in which it is performed: separately in the toilet and bathroom or in a combined bathroom. Sewerage is needed for the toilet, bathtub, washing machine, and washbasin. Hot and cold water is required everywhere, except for the toilet and boiler. Only the cold one is connected there.
Decide how many valves are required. The main one at the entrance, as well as at the exit from hot water definitely needed. A tap is also installed in front of the washing machine to shut off the pipeline without completely shutting it off if repairs to the unit are required. Be sure to install a filter at the inlet after the shut-off valve, which will remove coarse impurities and allow the equipment to operate longer without breakdowns. If the water supply is centralized, a meter is located behind it.
Next comes the optional equipment, among which the pressure reducer deserves attention. It is needed if the pressure exceeds the norm, which is usually no more than 4 atmospheres. It is advisable that the kit includes a pressure gauge, by monitoring the readings of which you can adjust the parameters. Then all plumbing fixtures work normally. Then the lines are routed in a serial or collector manner with open or closed installation.
The communications themselves are simple, so there is no need to make special calculations to determine the diameter. For supply risers it is used inch pipe or 1¼, for wiring - ½. It is advisable to install ball valves in front of all devices so as not to completely block communications in the event of a breakdown. Connection is made with flexible hoses.
Connecting pipes into a system - subtleties of work
According to the diagram, fragments of the required length are cut using special pliers. You can use another tool, but the quality will be worse. The joints are connected with couplings, and tees, crosses, and plugs are also used. Corners are used to make a turn or get around an obstacle.
Their number for metal-plastic pipes can be limited: they bend easily. The cold method is bad, but warming it up is better. A spring is used, which is put on top and then bent. All accessories vary in size, so you should be careful when purchasing.
The wiring is fixed on the wall with clips, which are placed every 1–2 m on straight sections and near bends. For highways running parallel, a fastening consisting of several latches in one product is used. For PVC risers, metal clamps with gaskets are used.
Pieces of polypropylene pipes are connected by welding. The sections are first cleaned and degreased, and the same is done with soldering iron attachments. Turn on the device and heat it to a temperature of 260°. Extinguished lights indicate readiness for work. The prepared parts are installed in the intended place, and the time is waited, which depends on the diameter of the product. The heated elements are quickly connected without twisting. After cooling, a strong connection is obtained.
For metal-plastic, threaded fittings are usually used, which do not require special tools, only a wrench. Before installation, check the presence of o-rings. If they were not installed at the factory, they are included in the kit.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
- check the cut walls: if burrs and irregularities are found, they are removed with sandpaper;
- a nut and a clamp are put on the end of the pipe;
- flare the holes so that the gaskets are not damaged when installing the fitting;
- After connecting the tee, angle with the pipe, which is inserted all the way, tighten the nuts along the threads.
Do not overtighten as the material is fragile and may burst. Twist until you hear a slight crunch.
Flexible polyethylene pipes are connected with plastic fittings of various configurations. They have O-rings and nuts that can be tightened by hand. A nut and seal are put on the pipe, it is inserted into the fitting until it stops, then the connection is fixed.
Sewage connection
The pipes are easy to install; they are sequentially installed in the socket. The seal is created by rubber gaskets. If they are not installed, the fastening will be loose, and drainage will flow out through the cracks, spreading bad smell. To facilitate entry, use a special silicone lubricant, which can be replaced with Vaseline, cosmetic cream. Machine oils are not used as they destroy rubber. A chamfer is made in the cut pipe.
Installation is carried out following the basic rules:
- 1. The communications are given a slight slope so that the drains spontaneously move from the devices to the riser. It is calculated that there is a slope of 2–3 cm for every meter of length.
- 2. The diameter of the main sewer pipes is 110 mm. For the supply, 50 mm products are used, except for the toilet - there are also 110 mm.
The system makes as few turns as possible and a minimum of connections. They are performed sequentially, and not in one place, where “intersections” are created, and “congestion” occurs when several devices are connected at the same time. To clean pipes, bends are created and closed with plugs.
For a constant slope, special pipe clamps are used. Each section is fixed on the wall. It is advisable to hide the sewage system in boxes so as not to spoil the interior of the room.
Do you want to seriously renovate and update your apartment? Then it will not hurt to know that one of the most basic stages of major home renovation is replacing old plumbing and pipes with new ones. In addition, this is the most impressive item of expenditure in the budget allocated for this work.
Reducing already impressive costs is a normal desire of every prudent owner. Do you agree? It’s quite possible to reduce them: installing plumbing fixtures yourself will help. We will tell you how to do the wiring, how to move and connect plumbing equipment, and what tools and materials are needed.
You will learn how to change pipes in the bathroom and connect plumbing fixtures yourself. And in order to make it easier to understand the repair issue, the article provides thematic photo guides and video instructions.
Standard designs for high-rise buildings do not suit everyone, and apartment owners try to redo the plumbing according to their preferences. This set of works is very troublesome and time-consuming, however, if you study the theoretical side of the issue well and follow the instructions exactly, most of work (if not all) can be done independently.
Plumbing, which includes various means and equipment, has long become an integral part of our lives, making it much more comfortable and cozy. Plumbing, heat supply/heating and sewerage are used today as both a basic necessity and a full-fledged element of interior decor. The main criteria when selecting the right plumbing fixtures should always be:
- aesthetics;
- ergonomics;
- comfort;
- ease of operation and maintenance;
- quality factor;
- high technical characteristics.
At the same time, the duration and ease of operation of plumbing fixtures and communications will largely depend on the quality and correctness of their fastening. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to avoid equipment wear and repair even with ideal pipeline installation. Today, the repair and construction market is simply replete with various specialized companies for eliminating all kinds of problems and malfunctions of plumbing.
But in order to solve such a problem, it is not necessary to resort to the help of expensive specialists. Repairing and replacing plumbing in an apartment or house is completely doable with your own hands. The most common problems of this kind include repairing old sewers, sewers, rotten or rusted pipes, as well as adjusting drainage wiring. Additionally, installing sinks, bathtubs, toilets, and faucets are also part of plumbing renovations.
Each communication system has its own specifics and functional features. Therefore, when carrying out any kind of manipulation with plumbing, this fact should be taken into account.
Water supply
It is the main water-arterial junction in the house and is responsible for the supply of water to all components and devices of the water supply system. Often the location of all plumbing equipment in an apartment directly depends on the location of the risers and the main pipe distribution, the layout and implementation of which affects the functionality of these structures. However, there is no one-size-fits-all water supply scheme. It all depends solely on the specifics of the apartment or house.
Sewage system
Responsible for drainage. A feature of communication is its variability, which allows you to diversify the output of sewage:
- down in a vertical position;
- to the floor at an angle;
- horizontally.
For good functionality of the sewer system, it is important that all its elements are of high quality, appropriate in size and for their purpose.
Heating
A very specific communication system that requires a special approach and attention. There are:
- liquid/water;
- vacuum;
- electric, fuel;
- gas.
Such diversity involves the use of special materials and equipment that suit each heating design individually. Heat heaters, heated towel rails, radiators/heaters also act as standardized parts of the thermal system, allowing for the most rational consumption and distribution of thermal energy.
However, it should be noted that it is the heating of all plumbing work that requires a qualified approach. There is no place for savings and amateurism. That's why the best option will invite a specialist from the housing department to do it yourself without special tools and knowledge.
Plumbing equipment
The most common plumbing accessories include sinks, bathtubs, toilets, and faucets. There are no particular difficulties in installing or replacing them, but some skill and accuracy will still be required.
Sink/washbasin
An important part of the apartment is the bathroom or kitchen. The type of installation depends on the nature of the communication and the structure itself. Today, four types of sinks are widely known:
- with pedestal;
- with underframe;
- with half-base;
- single.
Also special attention deserves the position of the mixer on the sinks, which is why sinks are divided into blind and hole models. All this affects the technology of fastening and replacement of equipment, which in each specific case will have a number of features. At the same time general principles the settings remain the same.
Bath
As for assembling this tank, it is quite enough to strictly follow the included instructions. Main types of baths:
- steel;
- plastic;
- acrylic;
- cast iron.
In the case of the latter option, an extra pair of strong hands may be needed during installation, since the weight of cast iron is quite large.
Mixers/taps
Today the choice of mixers is very wide. model range, making it easy to choose the right option according to personal preferences and the specific design of the sink itself. There are two types of faucets - single-lever and double-valve. The form of mixers can be very diverse.
The most common crane problem is wear of the gasket, valve or lever, which can easily be fixed on your own by replacing damaged parts.
Toilet
Due to the general fashion for original imported samples of plumbing fixtures, when choosing a toilet, you should first of all focus on the type of sewer and water supply system. Modeling in this case is already secondary.
Also, both during the initial installation of a device and when it is reinstalled due to repair or replacement, the method of installation of the equipment is very important. The most reliable and proven among all methods is considered to be four-bolt fastening. For wall-hung toilets, the installation technology is somewhat different from conventional ones, so turning to professionals in such cases cannot be avoided.
Materials
Repair of any type of plumbing always begins with the selection the right materials and pipeline components. In this case, we are talking about pipes intended directly for plumbing repair work in an apartment or house. The most common types of water supply and sewerage devices are pipes: steel, copper, stainless steel, metal-plastic and polypropylene. Each of these pipelines has special characteristics.
- Steel manifold. Types: uncoated and galvanized. Features: long service life, high strength, labor-intensive wiring, the appearance of rust and limescale build-up over time.
- Copper collector. Ideal for fuel lines, gas and water supply, air conditioning and heating. Features: resistance to deformation and corrosion, long service life, resistance to temperature changes, high cost of the material.
- Stainless steel manifold. Also applicable for different pipelines. Features: durability, frost resistance, ability to oxidize when interacting with certain metals, manufacturability, complexity of installation.
- Metal-plastic collector. Mainly used for water supply and heat. Features: durability, corrosion resistance, flexibility, lack of tendency to rust and water deposits, ease of wiring, sensitivity to frost and water hammer, high cost of fasteners.
- Polypropylene manifold. Wide scope of application. Types: regular, foil, stitched, etc. Features: cost-effectiveness, corrosion resistance, absence of rust and crystalline deposits, disposability, impossibility of reworking defects, minimum components, ease of installation.
Repair principle
Repairing plumbing is a painstaking and responsible task. And, although the general technology of the process is simple, the work itself is usually quite labor-intensive and takes a lot of time. The main stages of DIY repairs are:
- Planning upcoming work.
- Preparation of connection diagrams, pipe bends and distribution and location of plumbing equipment.
- Purchase of personal protective equipment - rubber gloves and caps, an apron or raincoat, glasses, a petal respirator.
- Purchase of necessary plumbing equipment.
- Cleaning the premises of old equipment and preparing the workplace.
- Selection and calculation of required materials. Their type and quantity will directly depend on the specifics of the repair and the structure of the pipeline connection.
- Determining the method of pipeline installation: open or closed.
- Assembly of pipeline structures.
- Installation of plumbing equipment (bathtubs, toilets, taps, etc.).
- Cleaning the premises from repair debris.
In order for repairing the plumbing of an apartment or house with your own hands to cause a minimum of inconvenience and reduce the time it takes to complete it as much as possible, it makes sense to use practical and useful tips experienced craftsmen. So:
- When laying sewerage, in places where it bends (turns) at an angle of 90°C, use special 45°C fittings. This will help avoid rapid clogging of the pipeline in the future.
- To save space in the room, connect the bathtub, washbasin and washing machine to a common pipe, and the toilet separately from them - directly to the riser.
- Without having special tools for plumbing repair, you can use ordinary construction equipment. For example, plastic pipes can be easily cut with a simple hacksaw, and its ends can be cleaned with sandpaper or a regular knife.
- If the area in the apartment or house is large and the bathroom is located far from the kitchen, be sure to install two separate risers.
- When changing sewer pipes, you need to remember that this type of communication is always installed on a slope. Fasteners, brackets and other parts are usually included with them.
- When combining a pipe with a tee, for the purpose of reliable and long-term sealing, it is necessary to ensure that all parts of the connection (pipe, coupling and rubber band) are clean. In addition, for adhesion strength, the pipe joints can be lubricated with glycerin or a soap mixture.
- If a leak suddenly occurs in the area where the pipe and fitting are connected, carefully lubricate the boundaries of the elements with glue and sealant and fasten them again. Then test the device for leakage.
- To better screw the nut securing the gasket, use liquid machine oil or kerosene.
- If the faucet is leaking, do not rush to buy gaskets for it. You can make them yourself from old car or bicycle tires. This makes the gaskets more durable and reliable.
- To remove blockages in the pipeline, use a steel cable, hard rubber or an old shower hose. With their help, it is easy to break through even very clogged areas, wash away grease, dirt and other deposits.
- It is necessary to try to prevent clogging in the pipes by periodically cleaning them using special solutions containing caustic soda - “Mole” and “Mole-2”.
- If you want to regulate the amount of water consumed in the toilet tank when flushing, you can attach a small weight of half a kilogram to its rubber bulb and, with each flush, independently control the volume of liquid in the drain.
Thus, with a little patience, knowledge and dexterity, any diligent owner can independently repair or replace the plumbing at home. And despite the predominant simplicity, this type of work categorically does not tolerate negligence and hackwork.
Installing plumbing in an apartment is a complex of sequential processes that require preliminary calculations and the correct selection of equipment. Installation should be approached with special responsibility, since the quality of work depends on the duration of operation of the overall system.
Preparatory work for creating a plumbing system
The first stages involve preparing the installation site, tools, materials and carrying out precise mathematical calculations.
Tools for plumbing installation
The required set of tools includes:
- scissors for carrying out the process of cutting pipes;
- welding soldering iron;
- pliers;
- adjustable keys;
- roulette;
- marker (for marking).
Drawing up a wiring diagram, taking measurements and mathematical calculations
The layout of modern apartments involves drawing up two methods for routing pipes (at the user’s choice):
- Collector. This method is the most practical in terms of subsequent operation, but its installation requires a professional approach. During installation, an individual pipe is supplied to each equipment.
- Tee. In this case, each new branch requires the installation of an individual stainless steel shut-off valve. The main advantage of the scheme is that there is no need to turn off the entire system if a breakdown occurs in a particular plumbing fixture.
Pipes are purchased only after mathematical calculations have been carried out. This process requires measuring all areas where the pipes will pass, including branches and bend angles. It is recommended to purchase pipes with a 1-2 m margin.
Before you start installation work The exact location of each equipment should be determined. After selecting a site, you need to measure the location and plumbing fixtures. The results obtained must be compared with each other to determine the compliance of the dimensions of the plumbing fixtures and the allocated space.
The right choice of materials
The quality of the plumbing system and its service life depend on the choice of components. Therefore, it is better not to save and buy quality materials. After all, the consequences may cost more. Pipes must be made of high-quality polypropylene. It is recommended to take fittings from stainless steel or high-quality plastic. Buy sealants from trusted manufacturers, since after a while, poor-quality sealant can leak. According to experts from the SmartInox company, one of the main elements in a plumbing system is stainless steel taps. Since taps are exposed not only to water, but also to mechanical damage when opening and closing. Purchasing faucets made of low-quality steel has a higher risk of corrosion and is more likely to break under mechanical stress.
Installation of plumbing equipment and other system components
Before installing pipes, you should prepare their locations as much as possible. For the installation process you will need scissors for cutting them, a tape measure and a welding soldering iron. It is recommended to free up space from unnecessary elements. Rubber gaskets must be installed at the connecting points. Their absence will lead to leaks. During installation, it should be taken into account that the slope of the pipes in relation to the main riser from the equipment should be within 3 cm per 1 m of pipe. In cases where a tee system is used, stainless steel taps must be installed at each new branch.
Installation of shower and bathtub
To ensure proper functioning of the shower cabin or bathtub, the following points should be taken into account during installation:
- Supply of electricity (with additional insulation from moisture), hot and cold water, sewerage;
- According to the standard, the cabin sewage outlet should be no higher than 70 mm from the floor surface to sewer pipe(if this parameter is exceeded, it is necessary to carry out additional installation podium);
- It is mandatory to apply sealant to the joints.
- Installing a drain involves the following processes:
- Connection of the cabin or bathtub drain hose to the sewer drain;
- Treatment of joints with sealants;
- Installing a sealing gasket into the drain hole;
- Treating the surface of the gasket with silicone.
- If there is a branch, a stainless tap should be installed.
Installation of sink, washbasin, washbasin
What are the main points to consider when installing such equipment?
- Correct comparison of the size of the supply pipes and the location of the washbasin, sink or sink.
- Installation of stainless taps (if this element is included in the overall system design).
- Sealing work should be carried out exclusively on dry fittings (it is possible to use a household hair dryer).
- Avoid contact of hands with mating surfaces.
- Install paronite gaskets between plastic parts and metal conductive pipes.
- Trimming standard fittings (a slight deviation when cutting will lead to leakage at the joint).
- It is mandatory to apply lubricant (silicone sealant) to the gaskets.
- According to SNiP recommendations, the installation height of plumbing fixtures is 80-85 cm.
Modern toilet models provide special holes for fixing the device to the floor surface. Installation of equipment takes place according to the following principle:
- Connecting the device to the sewer using a corrugated outlet;
- Installing a corrugated seal on the toilet outlet;
- Sealing the joint between the toilet and the floor.
Connecting water supply and sewerage requires the following steps:
- Connecting a flexible hose using FUM tape;
- Installation of a stainless steel shut-off valve on the pipe;
- Fixing the outlet pipe into the socket of the sewer pipe.
Sewage installation
The sewer pipes are connected to the fitting using a sealed rubber band. The percentage of the slope ranges from two to fifteen units - the difference between the end at the beginning and end of the pipe should be from 2 to 15 cm. When changing the direction of the sewer, the degree of rotation should be greater than the straight line. Pipes providing connection to the riser must be connected at an angle of less than 45°.
Installation of a washing machine, dishwasher and other similar equipment
Installation of plumbing fixtures such as a washing machine, dishwasher, etc. assumes compliance with the following requirements:
- In the absence of a check valve, they are not installed without taking into account the level limitation (location of the outlet hose) - the manufacturer specifies this parameter on an individual basis.
- Mandatory installation of a siphon to prevent leaks.
- Providing permanent water drainage.
- The equipment is connected to the water supply system using hoses with a diameter of 3/4 inches. Additionally, rubber gaskets should be installed.
Plumbing is an integral part of any home, the key to its comfort and coziness. To provide a person with proper living conditions, plumbing fixtures must at least be of high quality and correctly installed. In this article we will tell you about how to repair plumbing fixtures with your own hands.
Today, plumbing fixtures are gradually turning from an essential item into one of the elements of the interior, and sometimes into a luxury item. In plumbing, ease of use and practicality, elegance of form, ease of operation and maintenance, and ergonomics are increasingly valued. 
DEVICE OF TAPES AND MIXERS.
There are four groups of water taps and mixers: simple taps, simple mixers, single-handle mixers and thermostatic mixers.Simple taps served either cold or hot water. The most common and inexpensive devices for shutting off water are valves; the valve arrangement is shown in the figure below. However, they wear out quickly, especially for the gaskets that block the flow of water, which are most often made of rubber and have to be replaced with new ones quite often. When connecting the valve, it is necessary to observe the direction of water flow (shown by the arrow); if this rule is not followed, the valve may leak water, hum, or be difficult to screw on.
Ball valves, or ball valves, are primarily used in distribution systems. They are more durable and do not produce noise. To keep the faucet in working order, it is enough to sometimes just open and close it.
Simple, cheap mixers are most often a design consisting of two valves enclosed in a common housing. In simple high-quality faucets, a system consisting of ceramic discs is most often used. The use of ceramic discs greatly simplifies the procedure of opening and closing the tap and adjusting the water temperature. Ceramic discs are very reliable in operation and are practically insensitive to the deposition of limescale. In case of damage, damaged disks are replaced with new ones. Prevention consists of replacing the hermetic seal and lubricating the rubbing parts.
Attention! Never lubricate ceramic discs themselves. When disassembling the system, be careful: the disks are very fragile.
Mixer with thermostat: 1 – Device for setting the temperature; 2 – Thermostat cartridge; 3 – Housing; 4 – Ceramic head; 5 – Device for setting the water current strength; 6 – Check valve; 7 – Built-in nut; 8 – Flexible outlet for connecting a shower; 9 – Graduation system.
Mixer with ceramic discs: 1 – Jet regulator; 2 – Sealing washer; 3 – Head with ceramic discs; 4 – Cross; 5 – Housing; 6 – Flexible hoses for water supply.
Mixer with ceramic cartridge: 1 – Handle; 2 – Jet regulator; 3 – Cartridge; 4 – Housing; 5 – Fixing bracket; 6 – Flexible hoses for water supply.
Sealing washers (plumbing gaskets) used to ensure the tightness of mechanical connections and water shut-off systems are made from various materials, different diameters. It's best to have a set of different gaskets on hand. During any plumbing work, the gasket should be changed as a preventative measure.
Synthetic gaskets are used in mechanical screw connections in water circulation systems. They can withstand temperatures up to +180°C and pressures up to 40 bar.
Vulcanized fiber gaskets are most often used in mechanical screw connections, primarily to ensure tightness in taps and mixers. They can withstand temperatures up to +80°C.
Gaskets made of asbestos-free Kevlar can withstand temperatures up to +400°C and pressures up to 100 bar.
Teflon gaskets are suitable for any liquids and can withstand temperatures up to +250°C.
Rubber gaskets are used mainly for sealing moving parts of taps and mixers, as well as for sealing connections of plastic parts (hoses) washing machines, siphons, etc.).
REPAIR OF TAPS AND MIXERS.
Cleaning the jet regulator.The jet regulator breaks up the water jet so that it does not splash when it hits the bottom of the washbasin or sink. Its important part is the filter, which must be cleaned periodically.
1. Unscrew the jet control using an adjustable wrench.
2. Separate the regulator from the tap.
3. Remove the filter from the holder.
4. Soak the filter in vinegar overnight.
Replacing gaskets at the faucet neck.
1. If there is a leak, unscrew the sink nut and remove the faucet neck.
2. Replace the two O-rings.
3. Apply lubricant or silicone to the gaskets and then reassemble the faucet.
Replacing the drain valve.
1. Turn off the water, then unscrew the faucet axle box.
2. Remove the sealing gasket. If necessary, replace it with a new one.
3. Remove the gasket from the brass socket using a knife or other sharp tool.
4. Replace the gasket with a new one.
5. Press the gasket into the socket. Now it can no longer be removed.
6. Before assembling the faucet, apply special grease or silicone to the rod and valve.
Replacing the mixer gasket.
1. In the mixer, the axle box is located under the faucet handle. Remove the colored marker from the faucet handle, and then unscrew the mounting screw.
2. Remove the faucet handle.
3. Unscrew the axle box using an adjustable wrench.
4. If the axlebox has a mounting screw, unscrew it.
5. Remove the gasket.
6. Replace the gasket. Assemble the axle box and install it in place.
Valve seat repair.
If the valve continues to leak even after replacing the gasket, the valve seat may be damaged or coated with scale. The valve seat can be rebuilt using a special tool called a lapping tool. The lapping consists of a body with two screw threads of different pitches, so it can be used for any axlebox. After sanding the valve seat, any metal filings must be removed. To do this, remove the jet regulator and slowly run the water for a few seconds.
1. Check the condition of the seat surface with your finger.
2. Slowly screw the lap into the faucet.
3. Turn the lapping handle two to three times.
Replacing the axle box.
When replacing an axlebox with a new one, pay attention to the threads; the threads of axleboxes are different. The most practical are axle boxes with ceramic discs. 
1. Unscrew the old one and screw in the new axlebox with a new gasket.
2. Firmly fix the axle box in the crane body. 
3. Reinstall the faucet head.
Replacing ceramic discs.
1. Turn off the water. Place the faucet handle in its highest position, and then unscrew the fixing screw. 
2. Unscrew the axle box mount using a lever pipe valve. 
3. Remove the mechanism to access the ceramic discs. 
4. Remove the worn discs (or cartridge with ceramic discs). 
5. Check the condition of the disks and, if necessary, replace them. 
6. Apply lubricant or silicone to mechanical parts. Do not lubricate ceramic discs!
Installation of a self-screwing tap.
If you need to connect, for example, a washing machine to a pipe that does not have a special tap, you can use a self-screwing tap, which is easy to install. 
1. Unscrew the clamp of the self-screwing valve. 
2. Install the clamp on the pipe. 
3. Screw the tap into the clamp. 
4. Screw in the tap until it cuts through the copper pipe. 
5. This operation is easier to perform if the valve rotates easily. To do this, you need to correctly install it on the clamp and secure it by tightening the locknut with an adjustable wrench. 
6. Once installed on the pipe, the tap can no longer be disconnected.
REPAIR OF PIPELINES.
When repairing plumbing equipment, it may be necessary to tidy up the water supply pipes. The water in them is under pressure, so leaks are possible. Water drainage pipes may also leak. The most common problem is clogged and clogged pipes. In most cases, getting rid of blockages in the drain pipe is not difficult. The classic draining system includes a hydraulic shutter and a siphon, which also often gets clogged.
The simplest tool to get rid of blockages is a plunger. For difficult cases, there are more powerful devices, such as a plunger with a pump. If the blockage is in the pipe behind the trap, you may need a plumbing cable with a handle on one end and a cleaning head (borer or brush) on the other.
Clearing a clog using a plunger.
1. Before clearing the clog, seal the holes in the top of the sink with wide adhesive tape.
2. Pump the air with a plunger until the water standing in the sink goes into the drain hole.
Clearing the blockage using a plunger with a pump.
1. Press the plunger onto the drain grate.
2. Pump the pump until the water standing in the sink goes away. Then turn on the hot water for a while.
Cleaning the siphon.
1. Place some container under the siphon.
2. Unscrew the bottom of the siphon and wait until the water drains.
3. Clean the siphon.
4. To seal the bottom of the siphon, apply mastic to the threads.
5. Distribute the mastic to the entire thread.
6. Screw the bottom onto the siphon again.
Removing a blockage using a plumbing cable.
1. Disconnect the siphon.
2. Insert the metal cable into the hole in the drain pipe until it touches the plug.
3. To clear the blockage, rotate the handle.
4. Reinstall the siphon.
5. If there are too many bends in the drain pipe, you can use the holes provided specifically for cleaning.
6. Insert a metal cable into the hole and by rotating the cable, clear the blockage.
Installing a flexible drain hose.
Typically, flexible drain hoses are used to connect additional plumbing equipment. A flexible hose can easily replace an old siphon, as well as incorrectly installed drain hoses. There should be a column of water at least five centimeters high in the drain hose. Therefore, the flexible hose is shaped into a siphon before installation.
1. Take a flexible drain hose of the required length and diameter.
2. Place gaskets and O-rings inside the plastic pipe.
3. Tighten the flexible hose nut on the drain.
4. Glue the coupling to the drain pipe and shape the flexible hose into a siphon shape.
5. Glue the flexible hose to the coupling and put a clamp on it so that the hose retains its shape.
Connecting the drain hose for the washing machine.
As with water taps, there are sets of self-screwing siphon pipes for washing machines. 
1. Install the gasket on the top of the clamp. 
2. Place the clamp in place on the pipe. 
3. Attach the clamp to the sewer pipe. 
4. Drill the pipe using a drill driver. 
5. Remove the knob. 
6. Place the gasket on the siphon. 
7. Screw the siphon onto the clamp. 
8. Attach the siphon funnel to the wall using the clamp provided in the kit.
