Mortar for plastering the foundation of a house. Plastering the foundation - necessity, types and composition of the solution, application stages. Applying primer plaster

The work of plasterers in terms of the energy they expend is equal to the work of miners, this will be confirmed by any standard builder. If you add designer’s imagination to the labor costs, then plastering the foundation with your own hands will not seem like a simple task. This type of work requires a serious approach and thorough preparation.

Preparation stage

Before starting work directly on applying the plaster composition to the foundation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures.

The surface of the foundation is cleaned of dust, dirt and oil stains. If the foundation has stood without a protective coating for more than a year or traces of erosion of the stone or concrete from which the foundation was built are visually observed, a diagonal notch is applied to it.
When applying a cutting mesh, the areas most susceptible to erosion are cleaned down to a solid base of the material. In a foundation made of blocks, stones or bricks, the old mortar, which crumbles, is removed from the seams. Remove the solution with a spatula.
After cleaning the surface, it must be primed with a composition that has the property of deep internal impregnation.
Before applying the main layer of plaster, all cracks, dents, chips and other damage, as well as cleaned seams, are rubbed with cement-sand mortar to obtain a smooth surface.
A metal or fiberglass mesh is applied along the entire height of the foundation along the perimeter to reinforce the plaster. Drive-in dowels are used to secure the mesh.
If necessary, install beacons.

This completes the preparatory stage. You can start making a solution for plastering the foundation.

Solution

Plastering the foundation is done with a solution, the binding component of which is cement, and the filler is sand. The stages of the technological process of preparing the solution are as follows:

For mortar for plastering, only quarry sand is needed. River sand in plaster mortar will cause delamination and slipping of plaster layers. The sand must be sifted through a mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells.
If a concrete mixer is used to produce the solution, it must be thoroughly washed.
The concrete mixer is turned on and with the drum running, 4 buckets of sifted sand are first thrown into it, and then 1 bucket of cement. Cement for plastering the foundation is taken at least grade M-400. If M-500 grade cement is used, the amount of sand in the solution must be increased by 1 bucket.
Without adding water, the concrete mixer should combine cement and sand into a homogeneous composition in color and concentration.
Water is added from the bucket in small portions. It is not recommended to use a pump with a hose for supply, as there is a high probability of overflow. However, this is not scary; you will need to add sand and cement in the above proportions to obtain the required consistency.
To impart viscosity, plasticity, water resistance and adhesion to the foundation surface to the solution, plasticizing and antihygrophobic additives are added to it. The most common additive to the solution is PVA glue.

Primer layer

The plaster of the foundation of the house is applied in at least two layers. The first, mandatory layer plays the role of a primer, while subsequent layers can be the basis for further facing work, or be finishing and perform a decorative function.

The primer layer of plaster is applied with a thickness of no more than 10 mm. This layer must be applied in the following sequence:

The surface of the foundation is moistened with water before applying the primer layer, with the exception of places that have been treated with cement-sand mortar.
It is best to apply the primer coat using a “falcon” and a trowel using the spray method.
The layer can be leveled using a notched trowel using wave-like movements along the horizontal line of the foundation. The resulting “waves” will contribute to the strong adhesion of the next layer of plaster.

Before plastering the foundation under the base of future cladding or applying finishing layer, it is necessary to wait time for the primer to dry throughout the entire depth of the layer. The optimal time for the primer to dry and set is 5-7 days. Like any cement-based mortar, the primer is regularly moistened with water several times a day and covered with cardboard or burlap to protect it from direct sunlight, as well as from precipitation in the form of rain.

The primer layer should dry under natural conditions without the use of additional drying equipment in the form of industrial fans or heat guns.

Finish plaster

Decorative finishing of the foundation with plaster, depending on the specified texture, is done in a layer of 5-10 mm. Antihydrophobic additives must be mixed into the solution for the finishing layer to create a waterproofing surface of the plaster. Before applying the finishing layer, the primer surface must be moistened with a small amount of water to better bond the two layers.

To give the foundation a complete architectural style, a certain texture of appearance and surface relief is selected for the decorative layer. Currently, the following types of textures are common, which are reproduced without the use of special technical means or technologies and can be reproduced by the developer independently.

Plaster with a “travertine” texture. Travertine - artificial stone, which is used for cladding foundations, basements and fences. To recreate its texture, the plaster is applied in separate fragments, rather than rubbed in a continuous layer. The edges of the fragments are rubbed with a steel float until smooth surfaces and contours are obtained.
Type of texture – “under a fur coat”. The simplest and therefore most common type of finishing plaster. Application method: spraying. To recreate this texture, a solution is prepared, which, on the one hand, should not be liquid, so that it does not slide off after contact with the primer, and on the other hand, should not be too thick, so as not to form lumps. It is best to test the thickness of the working solution on the rough surface before starting finishing work. You can spray the solution with a trowel or a broom; in each specific case, the plasterer chooses the tool with which it is more convenient for him to work. To ensure uniformity of texture, an additional device is used in the form of a mesh with 10 by 10 mm cells and limiting rails along the perimeter with a height of 200-250 mm. The mesh has an overall size of 1000 by 1000 mm and is fastened along the perimeter with a wooden frame. Restrictive bars allow you to keep the grid at an equal distance from the foundation throughout the entire plane of the work being performed.
Plastering the foundation under a stone gives it the appearance of solidity and stability. The method consists of dividing the surface into shapes that in appearance resemble rubble stone masonry. To reproduce the texture, an even layer of plaster at least 10 mm thick is applied to the primer. A pattern is applied to the freshly smoothed surface, repeating the geometry of the stone. It is best to imitate seams using a rounded rod, or make a special device with a protrusion to evenly remove the plaster solution from the imitation seams.
Texture like natural stone. For this type of decorative finishing of the foundation, it is necessary to prepare a special solution with the addition of filler in the form of crumbs of the stone whose color it is planned to reproduce, for example granite or marble. After applying the plaster, the layer is carefully leveled, and after drying for a week, it is sanded.

Plastering the foundation with your own hands video:

Plastering the base and foundation of a house performs several functions at once: practical - it protects the base from a harmful, aggressive environment, extending its service life, aesthetic - it decorates the exterior of the house, collecting the architectural ensemble into a single, complete picture.

In the article we will tell you about the main methods of plastering a foundation and plinth, which solution is best to use, and how to decorate load-bearing elements of knowledge with your own hands.

Features of plinth and foundation plastering

Base – protruding above the ground surface, load-bearing structure, responsible for redistributing loads on the foundation. It is subject to harmful atmospheric, chemical and biological, mechanical influences, experiences significant temperature deltas, and therefore needs strong protection. There are several cladding options: tiles, siding, stone, but the most affordable in terms of cost, quality, durability, maintainability and practicality is, of course, finishing the base with plaster.

Before plastering, it is better to insulate the foundation and plinth

Important stages of plastering a plinth

The base for plaster should be prepared with special care: beat off the convex layers and bubbles with a hammer, pick out weak mortar from the joints, tear off the exfoliated . Remove dirt and dust; it is recommended to rinse with a stiff brush.

Block or brick base - scrape out weak layers of mortar, sweep and clean the seams with a brush.
We will inspect the monolithic concrete foundation. We identify cracks, groove gaps, knock down protrusions, and clean them.

We apply deep penetration primer.

Requirements for mortar for foundation plaster

Plaster mortar for the foundation is prepared exclusively with cement, M400 and higher. Additives that improve waterproofing characteristics and plasticizers can be added to the mixture. The ratio for the foundation is cement: sand – 1:3, sandstone must be washed, without clay impurities.

Advice: You can buy a ready-made plaster mixture marked “for the foundation.” The proportions of all components are correctly maintained in it.

Foundation plastering process

We make notches along the entire plane of the foundation with a hammer or chisel. We seal the cracks with cement-sand mortar, install beacons on pegs, attach the reinforcing frame, and wet the surface. We spray the foundation, a layer of up to 10 mm. Apply primer again to the dried layer. Apply a covering layer of plaster to the foundation using a thick mixture. We rub the surface. Stone foundation plaster is applied to visible areas, as in the plinth technology.

For a more detailed process, watch the video on how to do decorative foundation plaster with your own hands; a video with detailed technology will help you avoid making fatal mistakes.

Over time, the part of the foundation protruding above ground level will inevitably collapse under the influence of atmospheric phenomena if it is not provided with reliable protection. Plastering the base yourself can protect it from the aggressive influence of melt and rainwater, sunlight, sub-zero temperatures and other destructive factors.

This view exterior finishing, in addition to protective, also performs strengthening and decorative functions. This makes it very popular among both private and municipal developers, because the house should not only be reliable and durable, but also aesthetically attractive.

For the coating to serve for a long time and reliably, it is not enough just to follow the rules for preparing and applying the solution. It is necessary that the selected material meets certain requirements in its composition and properties.

What should the basement plaster be like:

Moisture resistant. The lower part of the building is more susceptible to moisture than other structures: snow, rain, melt water, which often contains aggressive chemical compounds. The coating must withstand such exposure and not allow moisture to pass through to the base.

Durable. Mechanical impacts of a destructive nature can cause no less harm. Finishing the base with plaster is designed to provide protection against them.
Frost-resistant. The plaster must withstand repeated cycles of thawing and freezing without losing its properties.
Resistant to ultraviolet rays.
Resistant to fungi, bacteria, insects and plants that cause biological corrosion.

It is especially important to comply with these requirements when insulating the base, since thermal insulation materials They need protection from all of the listed influences even more than the base material - concrete strip, stone or brickwork.

What materials to use

Based on everything said above, you can decide how to plaster the basement of the house:

Gypsum mixtures are not suitable for this purpose - they are afraid of moisture and do not have sufficient strength.
The price of polymer plasters, taking into account the fact that the layer must be quite thick, is unreasonably high. They can be used as a thin-layer decorative coating after the main protective layer has matured.
What remains are cement-based compositions. They are the ones that best meet all the specified conditions, while having low cost and availability.

Ready-made formulations

Many domestic and foreign manufacturers produce special cement plinth plaster, into which, in addition to cement and fractional sand, chemical additives are introduced that improve the quality of the finished coating and the adhesive properties of the solution.

The following brands are most popular among specialists:

Volma Sokol;

Ilmax (Ilmax) 6820;
Eunice Silin basement;
Sockelputz Knauf.

Some cement mixtures contain solid mineral inclusions (for example, marble or quartz chips), which improve their strength characteristics and give the surface decorative properties. But more often, thin-layer polymer mixtures are used for decorative finishing of the lower part of buildings, which are applied to a surface leveled with cement compounds.

Another option for decorating the base is to give the not yet dried cement coating a certain relief using special rollers (see Rollers for decorative plaster and creating a relief surface), stencils, metal brushes and other devices. And its color can be changed by simply painting with permanent paints or adding pigment to the solution during its preparation.

Homemade plaster for the base

You can prepare the mortar for finishing the base yourself, fortunately, cement and sand are quite affordable materials. But there are several nuances regarding the brand of cement and the origin of the sand. In addition, these components alone are not enough; the solution must contain plasticizing and water-repellent additives.

The instructions below will help you cope with this task perfectly:

Sift quarry sand (not river sand) through a metal sieve with small mesh to free it from clay, plant debris, pebbles and other foreign matter;

Pour sand into a container for preparing the solution or into a concrete mixer, add the required amount of cement and mix the dry ingredients;

Please note. The proportions depend on the brand of cement. For one part of grade M400, take three parts of sand; if the cement is M500, then the number of parts of sand can be increased to four.

Next, prepare the mixing liquid by adding plasticizing and waterproofing components to the water. This can be PVA glue and Latex Pro polymer dispersion. Also at this stage, you can introduce pigments or colorants to give the plaster the desired color;

The finished liquid is gradually added to the dry mixture and mixed, achieving the required thickness.

For reference. The solution for the primer layer should be liquid, flowable, and for the covering layer it should be plastic, convenient for application and smoothing.

Finishing the base with plaster mortar

Let's move on to how to properly plaster the basement of a house. The process consists of several stages - surface preparation, priming, installation of beacons, application of the main and decorative coating.

Preparatory work

Preparing the base involves cleaning it. First of all, the dried mortar is cleaned from the brick or stonework, from the seams between the blocks. If the foundation is a concrete strip with large cracks, then they are expanded - deepened and made wider in order to remove weakened areas.

The work is done with any convenient tool: a hard spatula, a chisel, etc. After that, the remaining small particles of dust and sand, and fragments of plaster are swept out from the resulting recesses and from the entire surface with a stiff brush.

Before plastering the base of the foundation, it must be primed with special compounds (see Primer for concrete - a preparatory stage for subsequent finishing), penetrating into the thickness of the base and strengthening it. This will also bind the remaining dust on the surface and increase the adhesion force to the plaster mixture.

Advice. When priming, special attention should be paid to seams, cracks, chips and other defects.

Instead of a primer, it is allowed to use a liquid working solution, which is applied by spraying with a brush or broom.

Finishing work

Immediately after the primer layer has dried, work on plastering the base begins, which is performed in the following sequence:

First of all, all cavities, cracks, and masonry joints are filled with cement mortar;
Then a metal reinforcing mesh is mounted on the base. Mesh plaster is more reliable and durable;

The next step is installing beacons. You can do this in any way convenient for you. For example, by placing them on plumb lines, as is done when plastering interior walls. If there is no blind area around the house yet, you can drive even pegs into the ground along a horizontal line drawn on the ground parallel to the base and at a distance of at least 2 cm from it. In this case, the space between the pegs and the wall is covered with mortar from bottom to top, after which you need to wait for it to dry and remove the stakes;
The distance between the beacons should be less than the length of the rule that will be used to level the solution. And the distance from the outer beacons to the corners should be 20-30 cm;

The hardest part is over, all that remains is to spread the solution in a thick layer between the beacons and level it with the rule.

Please note. It is advisable to remove metal beacons from the coating, otherwise rusty spots will appear in their place over time. This is done 5-6 hours after application, and the remaining recesses are filled with solution and leveled.

Further actions depend on how you are going to decorate the base. If painting, tiling or decorative plaster for the base is chosen as the final finish, then the coating must be created with conditions for proper drying.

To do this, cover it with waterproof material to protect it from precipitation and sunlight and wait 2-3 weeks, depending on the thickness of the layer. During this time, the surface must be moistened with water twice a day. After drying, it is primed and a decorative coating is applied.

Pay attention! Under no circumstances should you artificially accelerate the process of hardening and maturation of the solution by acting on the surface covered with it with heat guns and other devices.

But you can decorate the base in another way. To do this, create a relief on a fresh layer of solution using any available means. There are plenty of options.

For example, you can make a stencil in advance, the imprint of which will leave a stone or stone pattern on the surface. brickwork. The same pattern can be easily applied with any long and thin object, making grooves in fresh plaster.

You can also use a notched trowel or comb, a stiff brush or a textured roller. Or, with your own hands wearing rubber gloves, draw an ornament, an abstract design, etc. on the base.

Conclusion

Plastering a structure such as a plinth is a great way to practice for those who want to gain skills in this construction field. A relatively small area, no high requirements for leveling the surface, working at ground level without the need to use scaffolding is a task just for beginners.

After watching the video in this article, you will be convinced that you can do it. You just need to take a responsible approach to the choice of materials and strictly follow the instructions for preparing the surface.

Finishing the basement of a building with plaster is one of the finishing decorative works, but it also has an important structural function. The base is a part of the foundation of a house that extends beyond the surface of the ground, and the foundation is the foundation of the structure, and its protection from negative external influences is extremely important.

Advantages and disadvantages of plaster when finishing the base

Finishing the base with plaster has a number of advantages over a foundation left untreated. When choosing suitable option everything will depend on the type, appearance, climatic conditions and decorative design of the facade:

Weatherproof. The underground part of the foundation is covered with soil and protected from the effects of ultraviolet radiation, precipitation, wind and corrosive solutions that are used when treating roads. The above-ground part is protected by plastering.
Insulation and temperature changes can have a detrimental effect on a concrete or brick foundation, and plaster with a heat-insulating layer will certainly help here.
The appearance of the base greatly benefits from a well-chosen plaster composition, which changes the feeling of general view buildings.

Plaster has a number of positive nuances

The disadvantages of plaster include its relative fragility against mechanical stress. A strong blow or a sharp tool can damage the decorative layer of the base coating. The cost of additional processing of the base increases the overall cost of work, however, it is worth taking into account that this will save a significant amount in the future, for example, during major repairs.

In this view you will learn more about plaster:

Main types of plaster solutions for external work

Modern market building materials offers huge selection traditional materials, as well as high-tech compounds developed based on the achievements of the chemical industry:

Cement-sand plaster. The most traditional material, cheap and familiar to all builders; prepared on the basis of one part of cement grade M400 or higher and three parts of sifted sand. You can additionally add plasticizers or decorative components, such as coloring pigments, to the mixture, then it will be much easier to apply, and appearance coverage will greatly benefit.
Gypsum plaster. One of the budget options, it has higher decorative characteristics compared to the cement-sand mixture, but it is significantly more fragile and strongly absorbs moisture. It is also worth noting that gypsum is a rather capricious material and requires good skill.
Clay-sand mixture. You can often cook it absolutely free if you have a quarry nearby. Of the advantages of clay-sand plaster, the main thing is environmental friendliness; it also absorbs harmful substances and is able to draw excess moisture from the air and gradually release it back, maintaining a comfortable microclimate. And this is the most convenient option if you are thinking about plastering the base exclusively with your own hands. You can always patch up flaws and correct traces of inexperienced work.
Lime plaster for the plinth. It is mixed from slaked lime and filler, most often sand, less often cement or clay. The disadvantages include fragility, and you also need to make sure that there are no unslaked parts in the solution, otherwise the layer may crack after application.
Cement clay-sand. It is obtained by adding cement to a mixture of sand and clay, this significantly increases the strength of the material, but does not affect the other properties (with a cement share of less than 10%).
Decorative plaster compositions. They are presented as ready-made mixtures from various manufacturers, imported and domestic, in different price zones and provide different surface textures, for example, Venetian plaster - an imitation of marble slabs. In this case, you can either buy a ready-made mixture or prepare it yourself.

Attention! Choose material that you are already familiar with.

How to choose a tool to plaster the basement of a house

Comfortable and high-quality plastering of the plinth is only possible with the preparation of high-quality and convenient tools:

Rule. It is better to choose the size according to ease of use; a tool that is too bulky will not be easy to handle.
A spatula, or even several types, different sizes and shapes, including angular.
A trowel is a standard tool for finishing work and should be chosen according to your hand.
Level. You will need two levels, a two-meter rail and a short one 40-50 cm.
Hatchet. It's easier to take a small tool with a metal handle.
Grater.
Poluterok.

Stages of applying the plaster mixture to the surface of the plinth

We will outline the entire process of plastering the base step by step. The first stage of preparation should be a draft of future work. They preliminarily estimate the scale of the work, how much time it will take, the required labor resources, tools, and, of course, the established budget with a reserve of 20% for unforeseen expenses.

There are several stages of work

As practice shows, it is never possible to avoid surprises and surprises, and the strategic reserve is very helpful in these cases.

Surface preparation

The surface of the base must be carefully smoothed manually or using grinder. Carefully work out all fragile and weak areas, getting to a solid base. If plaster is applied to an old brick base of a house with remnants of the coating, careful preparation is indispensable. It is very important to go through all the seams, repair the cracks, and, if necessary, carry out restoration work, replacing old plastered bricks with new ones. In the concrete base, all cracks and cracks must be carefully sealed with repair compound and wait until the putty gains strength.

It is recommended to apply notches on the surface of the base using a hatchet, but only after the primer and putty layers have hardened. Grooves on the surface will increase the area of adhesion of such a material to the base, and adhesion will be excellent.

Some craftsmen neglect the priming stage, but this is completely unacceptable. It is best to use a deep penetration primer. This will further strengthen the base and walls, and also ensure reliable adhesion of the plaster. There are a number of primers on the market with hydrophobic properties, and the use of such a material will add moisture resistance to the entire foundation. You can also prime the base by applying polymer base mixtures. Alkyd polyurethane and epoxy primers, as well as materials based on acrylic resin, show improved performance compared to traditional compounds.

It is important to pay special attention strengthening the foundation.
Plastering the surface
To apply plaster, you will need to install beacons over the entire surface of the base in increments that match the size of the rule. For ease of work, it is recommended to use a painting mesh as reinforcement for the plaster layer, and attach a special corner profile to the corners.
Next, the plaster mixture is prepared step by step, the layer is applied to the wall initially in large pieces and gradually distributed. Then the second and third are applied until a smooth finished surface is formed, oriented at the level of the beacons. Plastering the plinth on a mesh is the simplest and most reliable coating option for decorative finishing of the plinth and other external elements of the building.
In cases where it is necessary to insulate the surface of the base, tile or mineral wool insulating materials are used. And first of all, they install insulation on the primed wall, apply special glue for thermal insulation panels, and attach the plaster along the lower level metal profile to support the structure.
Thermal insulation is glued to the surface of the base, but sometimes, as fasteners, it is convenient to use dowel nails with wide heads. An adhesive is applied to the insulating layer to prime the surface and ensure the necessary adhesion to the plaster, and then the plaster mixture itself, 25-30 cm thick, is applied. Detailed Description The process of working with thermal insulation and installation features can be viewed in our articles on the technology of ventilated or wet facades.
When the layer of plastered surface is leveled, the beacons can be removed. The lighthouse itself is removed from the layer of plaster that has not yet hardened, and the hole in the base of the house is filled with mortar and then leveled.

Don't forget to remove the beacons
Final stage
To avoid cracks and deformations, it is necessary to ensure uniform drying of the plaster. For the entire period of strengthening, you need to cover the base with film and periodically moisten the top layer. Moisture leaves the top layer faster than the inner layer, this provokes unevenness of the solidification process, and internal stresses inside the material are inevitable. Periodic light moisturizing will help avoid this danger.
Another issue to be resolved is how to make the connection. The main part of the house can be decorated using facade panels, facade glazing or wooden curtain facade. The most in a simple way To ensure decorative unity of the solution, there will be a strip of bent galvanized or stainless metal.
Decorative option for plastering the surface of the basement belt of a building
To give the plinth an even more unusual look, use finishing decorative mosaic plaster for the plinth. Add filler to the mixture:
colored quartz sand;
fine marble chips;
granite chips;
decorative stone;
finely crushed brick.

All these materials can be selected in various fractions - from 0.5 to 5 mm. The mosaic plaster composition itself is usually a filler in acrylic resin. Thanks to the unique membrane properties of acrylic, moisture remains outside, and excess evaporation from inside the layer escapes into the atmosphere. This prevents the formation of mold, mildew or material deposits.
Depending on the filler, the texture will also change. After completing the work and drying all the layers, you can paint the surface with facade paint or clear varnish. Protective coating will seal the plaster from external influences and give it a finished look in accordance with the designer’s plans.
The only subtle point that needs to be taken into account is very complex restorative plastering work: it is almost impossible to achieve a uniform layer if you have to restore damage.
Plastering the plinth looks like a complex and multi-stage process. However, even a non-professional master can do it. The key to success is careful adherence to building regulations. It is important not to neglect the help of instructions for working with materials, remember the need for a careful approach and preliminary planning.

Foundation plaster is a coating that performs both decorative and protective functions of the foundation of the house. Applying a covering composition to the outside of a building can be done using several technologies (under stone, brick, “fur coat”, etc.).

The chosen technique will determine the materials used, the consumption of the plaster coating, as well as the appearance of the foundation. This covering composition creates an additional barrier for moisture to enter microcracks in the foundation, prevents condensation and the development of fungus at the base of the house, especially in a wooden one.

About the material used

For the plaster mixture for external finishing work, cement-sand or lime mortars are mainly used. The composition of the covering material based on lime mortar is made in a ratio of 1:4 (one part slaked lime and four parts fine river sand). Additionally, cement is used.

Cement-sand mortars are diluted in a ratio of 1:4 (one part cement to four parts sand). In some cases, PVA glue can be used for plasticity and increased adhesion. It is cement-sand mortars that cover the foundation or plinth.

Despite the ease of making it yourself, plaster has a broad classification:

Depending on the quality of the material, mixtures are divided into: simple, improved and high-quality.
Depending on the purpose, covering mixtures are divided into: ordinary, special and decorative.
Depending on the type of work, plaster is divided into a mixture for external or internal finishing.

Requirements for mortar for plaster

To plaster a plinth or foundation, the surface must be treated with the correct solution. The main component in such a solution is cement, and the auxiliary (filler) is sand. The requirements for creating a solution are as follows:

It is necessary to use quarry sand. The use of river sand will increase the risk of delamination and crumbling of the mixture. To ensure that the sand grains are of the required fraction, the sand is sifted through a mesh with 2x 2 mm holes.
For M400 cement, a cement to sand ratio of 1:3 is required, for M500 cement – 1:4.
When mixing in a concrete mixer, first lay the dry components of the plaster, only after that water is added.
Plasticizing and waterproofing components are added to the water. Plastering the base of a house (or foundation) requires the addition of PVA glue to increase the adhesion and ductility of the mixture.
Water is added in portions to achieve optimal thickness.

Rules and stages of work

Before treating the surface of a plinth or foundation with cement mortar, it must be prepared. The preparation stages include:

Surface cleaning. A spatula is used to remove dirt and dust, dried mortar, etc. If stone or concrete has erosion, a diagonal notch is applied to the surface.
Grooving gaps. In the presence of cracks and microcracks, the gating method is used, in which the edges of the cracks are destroyed with a spatula as much as the concrete allows. Then the gaps are cleaned of concrete chips with a brush.
If the foundation is severely damaged, a chain-link mesh is used. The mesh is necessary to level the surface; it serves as the basis for the cement layer, primer and plaster. The mesh is mounted over the entire surface and fixed with dowels.

A peg is driven in at the place where the strip intersects with the wall. The length of the wooden peg should correspond to the height of the plinth. Cement mortar is applied to the gap between the wall and the peg. The resulting vertical mound is leveled using a building level.

Next, they install beacons along the wall with their own hands. To do this, 3 nails are driven into the corner pegs (bottom/top and in the middle). A cord is pulled between them. The lines formed will become a guide during the plastering process. After installing the beacons, priming is carried out.

Primer of the foundation of the house is necessary for easy application of plaster and increase adhesion between the mixture and the surface. For priming, deep penetration liquids are used, which are applied either to the entire surface of the foundation or to areas of chips and cracks (10 mm thick). Application is carried out with a “falcon” and a trowel using the spraying method. The optimal drying time for the primer is 5-7 days.

Application of finishing plaster

After priming, it is necessary to finish the final layer - the finish. Finishing (decorative) plaster is applied using several techniques. Among them:

“travertine” texture;
terrazite plaster;
“fur coat” finish;
stone finish.

Plaster "travertine"

The technique involves spreading cement mortar not over the entire surface, but in specific places. In this case, the edges of the finishing mixture are smoothed with a steel trowel; it is permissible to use a pointed wooden tool.

Thanks to this, protrusions of any geometry and size are formed on the smooth surface of the house foundation. A travertine texture is created, which is enhanced by pigments added to the plaster mixture. The total price of such work is usually higher than with other finishing methods.

Terrasite plaster

A similar plaster for plinths is applied according to the following scheme:

the foundation is wetted with water;
the plaster layer is evenly applied to the entire surface of the foundation and leveled with a trowel;
the plaster dries within 24 hours.

After drying, the layer should crumble a little. After this, you need to take a 15 x 15 cm board with a thickness of up to 2.5 cm, nails should be nailed to it, maintaining a protrusion of up to 1.5 cm.

The distance between the nails should be 1.5 cm. The mounted structure is used to grout the surface from top to bottom. It allows you to create a texture with indentations. To save time, you can use a grinding machine.

Plaster “under a fur coat”

This plastering method is one of the most economical and simple. The application technology involves spraying, so the consistency of the solution is of particular importance.

A liquid plaster solution will not allow you to finish the surface, as it will run off, but a thick solution will lay down in an uneven layer, forming lumps.

To create a “fur coat” finish, you can use a trowel. Each time, an equal amount of the mixture is applied to the trowel, which is then “dumped” onto the surface of the foundation. An alternative to a trowel can be a broom. A broom is dipped into a container with a solution, after which it is used to spray.

The third option for creating a “fur coat” finish is to use a mesh. The mesh is mounted using wooden frame, the size of which corresponds to 1x 1 m. A mesh is tightly stretched onto the frame, the mesh size of which is up to 10 mm.

The structure must be equipped with slats (stops) up to 20 cm long. The use of a wooden stop is necessary to hold the frame from the foundation while maintaining the same distance. Then the mixture is sprayed onto the surface with a broom - the mesh allows you to create a uniform texture.

How to plaster the foundation? (video)

Stone plaster

The technique allows you to visually break the foundation in such a way that the plaster begins to imitate masonry. The method is carried out using the following technology:

a layer is applied to the foundation decorative plaster, then – leveled;
Next, it is necessary to finish the first layer by covering it with a second layer of plaster, onto which a pattern is then applied, which breaks the foundation into masonry;
a ruler is applied to the recess simulating a masonry seam;
Using the side and a ruler, the seam is pressed.

Then you need to grout the joint, which will differ in color from the main plaster.