When arranging their home, every person wants to create unique comfort, beauty and coziness in the interior of their living space. Home improvement involves paying special attention and care to each stage of the bathroom design, the sewerage and water supply systems installed in it, the operation of which must be absolutely correct, carrying out exactly those functions on which all hopes are pinned. Otherwise, property damage will occur. Therefore, you should carefully follow all the requirements and installation rules described in the instructions, especially if you are renovating the premises yourself. This article describes in detail how to properly install a bathtub in the bathroom yourself and without the help of professionals.
The bathtub is the center of the bathroom and what size, shape and color it is affects not only the mood, but also the performance characteristics. Today the market is replete with a wealth of plumbing equipment, which can be divided into three types: cast iron, steel and acrylic. You are probably thinking, what about hydromassage? That’s right, they also have a place, but they belong to the “elite” class, so the installation of such bathtubs is most often entrusted to specialists.
One of the most popular models on the plumbing equipment market are bathtubs made of steel and acrylic. They are characterized by lightness, hygiene, durability, reasonable price, and can be easily installed even by one person. Cast iron structures are very heavy, but they are durable, strong, and installation is carried out exclusively with an assistant.
Before installing the bathtub in a specific place, you need to think through everything carefully. First of all, you should decide what size the bathtub should be, material, color, and then buy it. It is important that it does not block access to other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, while maintaining absolute functionality and comfort.
After purchasing a new bathtub, you should get rid of the old one. A cast iron drain is usually cut out, but a plastic one can be broken. Next, the legs are broken, knocked out from under the bathtub, tilted on its side and taken out. Afterwards, the sewer socket should be cleaned, into which the corrugation should then be inserted and sealed with sealant at the joints to completely seal the corrugation.
For a cast iron bathtub, it would be ideal to use a cast iron cuff installed inside the drain hole.
How to install on legs cast iron bath
Installing a clawfoot bathtub in a bathroom is quite easy. Modern bathtubs are usually equipped with a support with an adjustment mechanism. Such knives can be mounted on a concrete screed or on the floor if a bathtub screen is not intended. At the same time, it is important to understand that the installed structure will not wobble to the sides, tilt, well, but it should be positioned strictly horizontally - level.
If you decide to change the location of the bathtub, this will require additional measurements, purchasing hoses and pipes so that the installation of the bathtub can be carried out as correctly as possible and without further unpleasant surprises.
Important! Do not gently remove the protection from the bathtub during work to avoid damaging the smooth surface.
Installing a steel/acrylic bathtub
Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands or an acrylic one is carried out in the same way. The work is absolutely simple and even a beginner can do it. Three sides of the bathtub should rest against the walls, which promotes better fixation. Well, installing a bathtub under the tiles, of course, is carried out before laying the tiles themselves, moreover, it is best to leave a distance of up to 5 mm between the bathtub and the walls.
To attach the supports to the bathtub, you need to turn it upside down. Some are attached closer to the drain, others to opposite side. In the places where the supports are attached, everything is first degreased, after which the protective films are removed from the overhead elements in order to press them more firmly to the surface. If the posts are bolted, then engraving washers should be installed under the bolts before tightening the nuts.
If the supports were installed on a bathtub in the hallway, then it is most convenient to bring the structure into the opening sideways. The bathtub is installed in the designated place, moving it close to the walls. The level should be set horizontally, and the structure itself, after installation on the legs, should be carefully checked so that it does not wobble.
After this, the siphon is connected to the bathtub and sewerage system, treating all joints and cracks with sealant to avoid leaks. When all the fastening and connecting work has been completed, you can safely proceed to tiling.
Installing a steel bathtub in the bathroom
Important! After the tiles are laid on the walls, you need to check the legs again, tightening them until they stop.
Sometimes a problem may arise that the sewer hole is located high enough. Sometimes in some houses, both old and new, the sewerage system may be installed incorrectly. Therefore, installing a bathroom with your own hands requires additional elevation. For example, if you have a steel or cast iron bathtub, you can place it on wooden blocks or even bricks. Some threaded pins are replaced with elongated elements. The latter can be purchased at construction stores or markets.
Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks
The acrylic construction is quite light, so it can be placed on legs without any problems.
Important! After 10 years, the legs may deteriorate somewhat: rust, bend, as a result of which the slope necessary for the bath may be lost and the water will not completely go into the sewer. The bathtub itself may also crack due to the legs, so it would be better to install the bathtub on bricks yourself.
You will need:
- 20 pcs. red bricks;
- cement mortar;
- metal profile;
- hammer and trowel;
- tape sealant, silicone and level;
- solution container;
- grinder, self-tapping screws and hammer drill.
The bottom of acrylic bathtubs can be either round or rectangular, triangular or beveled. Therefore, the form of laying out the bricks must correspond to it.
Important! The height of the bath should not be more than 60 cm from the floor.
When installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks, the structure should be easily tilted forward so that the water can easily drain into the drain. For example, the height of the back rack of the bathtub will be 19 cm, and in the front - 17 cm, a distance of 50-60 cm will be maintained between the racks.
How to install a clawfoot and brick bathtub
- on bricks;
- on legs and bricks (combined installation).
Combined installation involves screwing in the legs first and only then paving the intended space with bricks. To do this, it is necessary to make markings, according to which the brickwork is then made.
Important! Do not install the bathtub on a damp cement screed under any circumstances. She needs to be given a day, or even more, to dry out.
Mounting sealing foam is applied on top of the dried masonry. After this, the bath is installed. The correct installation of the structure is checked using a level.
For better shrinkage of the mounting foam, water is poured into the bath. The joints between the walls and the product are sealed using tape sealant or silicone.
You can also make a solid brick base.
Installing a cast iron bath
Cast iron bathtubs are high-quality, heavy models, a characteristic feature of which is long-term heat retention. Before you install the bathtub on bricks with your own hands, you need to bring it into the room in height, turning it on its side and laying it in its intended place with its bottom against the wall so that the outlet hole is in a certain direction.
Installing a metal bathtub involves fixing the supports with a coupling bolt. The wedges are attached by tapping from the center to the edges until they are firmly fixed. Each support must be equipped with an adjustment screw and nut.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs
Afterwards, the bathtub is turned upside down to install the side supports. Use a level and an adjustment screw to avoid any kind of tilt when setting the horizon. Smooth legs should be fixed using polymer glue so that they do not slip on the surface, or, alternatively, plastic plugs should be placed on them.
After installing the bathtub on the legs, the water supply is connected, waterproofing all the gaps, cracks and butt joints. At the end a faucet with a shower is installed.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks
As mentioned above, a cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and cannot be handled by one person. Therefore, experts suggest using a combined installation option: on legs and bricks.
After installing the bathtub on its side, it is better to immediately connect the siphon.
Important! A siphon for cast iron bathtubs must be purchased immediately of high quality. Otherwise, replacing it will be extremely difficult.
As for the dimensions of the racks, they are indicated above. A cast iron bathtub can also be supported by racks, vertical posts installed around the perimeter of the structure. Installation on supports assumes that the height of the outer edge will be 0.5-1 cm higher than the edge in contact with the wall. This should be done to avoid water spilling onto the floor.
How to install a bathtub on bricks
We will not talk about how to install a steel bathtub on bricks, since the process is identical to those described above. Due to the fact that steel structures tend to sag, it is, of course, better to provide support along the entire bottom.
There is another method of installing the product: this is when several welded pipes are laid on supports. Such baths require grounding. If the wiring suddenly becomes faulty, grounding can save lives.
Finishing
As for the decor, this process is carried out after all work on the bathroom is completed, when it is already fully installed and secured. Bathtub lining can be done using tiles, drywall, a special protective screen made of plastic, depending on your desires and capabilities. But when sewing up the bathtub, you should provide a window for changing the siphon or cleaning it. If you close the screen tightly, you will not be able to eliminate the leak, or you will have to break everything.
, but also to replace the bathtub itself, especially if over the years of use it has lost its original appearance.Of course you can try restore coverage using commercially available special enamels. This could become good decision in the case of a cast iron bathtub.
But, if you need to change your existing bathtub to a more modern one with beautiful design and additional amenities, you will have to dismantle the old one and install a new one in its place.
We will talk about how to do this in this publication.
Removing an old bathroom
If you have not yet decided on a purchase, we recommend reading the article - Which bath to choose? If you have already made your choice and a new bathtub has already been purchased, then you can start dismantling the old one.
To do this, you need to carefully disconnect the siphon, which is located below and screwed to the outlet with a nut, and also unscrew the overflow (attached to the overflow hole on the wall).
If the pipes are old and this cannot be done manually, use adjustable wrenches.
After disconnecting the siphon from the bathtub, it should also be disconnected from the sewer outlet pipe going to the riser. To do this, just carefully disassemble the socket connection, being careful not to damage the existing rubber ring, and plug the outlet pipe with a rag so that no debris gets into it when installing the bathtub.
After this, the bath can be moved from its place without fear of damaging the sewer pipes.
If the bathtub is cast iron, you can break it with a sledgehammer and take out the fragments in parts. This will significantly speed up the process and will not require a large number of people to take it out of the house and into the trash.
You can watch a video on how to break a cast iron bathtub below:
As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this, the main thing is to try to carry out all the work during the daytime, so as not to disturb the neighbors in the evening, since there will be a lot of noise.
Particular care should be taken in areas where the bathtub is connected to the sewer in old houses. As a rule, in Stalinka and Khrushchev-era buildings, the sewerage system was made of cast iron pipes, which, if handled carelessly, can crack and cause you additional trouble relaying the sewerage system. Which was often embedded in the floor.
Once the old bathtub has been removed, you can begin installing the new one.
Preparing the base
Installation begins by preparing a solid, level base.
If during the dismantling process you damaged the floor covering or the floor previously had unevenness, then you should do everything necessary work by leveling it so that the bathtub stands on a level floor.
To do this, make a cement screed and lay the tiles on the floor.
Only after a reliable foundation is ready can you begin to install the bathtub itself.
Installing legs on a cast iron bathtub
A cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and requires reliable support for installation. To do this, use legs that are attached to the bottom.
Previously, the legs were triangular cast iron castings, which were attached to the spacer between the bosses (protrusions) at the bottom of the bathtub and wedged with metal wedges:
The installation height in such cases was regulated by metal pads and it all did not look very neat.
Today the legs are a more complex structure. They are fastened with a threaded connection and a nut, and their height is adjusted with screws using a wrench:
These are the legs that should first be secured to the bottom of the bathtub in order to immediately place it in the place where it will stand, and only after that proceed with the installation of the body kit in the form of a siphon, overflow and other devices, if any.
Installation of siphon and overflow
Installation of the siphon and overflow is carried out after the bathtub is securely on its legs.
The siphon is a plastic structure that creates a water seal so that gases and bad smell from the sewer network:
The siphon is screwed on one side to the outlet in the bottom of the bath, and the overflow tube is screwed to the overflow hole on the wall.
The siphon outlet is connected to sewer pipe, discharging wastewater to the riser.
The siphon installation diagram looks as shown in the figure below:
The numbers indicate: 1 – overflow pipe; 2 – outlet in the bottom of the bath; 3 – siphon; 4 – pipe connected to the outlet pipe; 5 – overflow hole in the wall of the bathtub; 6 – bathtub, 7 – bathtub legs.
The siphon is assembled from the parts included in the kit, after which it is installed in the drain hole and secured with a nut on the reverse side.
After this, the overflow tube is attached to the overflow in the same way.
The outlet pipe of the siphon is mounted to the sewer outlet pipe.
After the entire structure is assembled, you should take in water and make sure that no water is leaking anywhere. If you notice droplets somewhere, you should carefully, without applying much force, tighten the connections to seal the gasket.
Below you can watch a video on how to install a siphon in a bath:
As you can see, everything is quite simple and should not cause any difficulties when doing this work with your own hands.
Features of installing acrylic bathtubs
Let's now look at the main features of installing acrylic bathtubs.
Acrylic bathtubs appeared on our market not so long ago, but have long gained popularity due to the variety of shapes, sizes, colors, as well as their low weight, which makes it possible to do without a team of workers to move it to the installation site.
Previously, we already wrote how to choose an acrylic bathtub, if you haven’t read it yet, we recommend reading about the pros and cons of bathtubs made of this modern material.
And now a few words about their installation.
Acrylic bathtubs differ from steel and cast iron in that their body has less mechanical strength and can be easily damaged.
When a person with a lot of weight washes in such a bathtub, it plays noticeably, and over time, cracks may appear in the body.
To prevent this from happening, acrylic bathtubs are placed on a special rigid frame made from the structures that come with it.
The frame may have various options execution, but in general, the frame for an acrylic bathtub looks as shown in the photo below:
To assemble the frame, mark the places on the bottom of the bathtub where the frame will be attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws:
After that, small holes are drilled in the designated places. The main thing is not to drill through the bottom. The depth of the holes is indicated in the bathtub passport.
After the holes are ready, the supporting metal slats are attached to the bottom using self-tapping screws.
Installation of plumbing equipment requires not only relevant experience, but also high costs. Installing a bathtub in the bathroom yourself is no exception. Despite the apparent complexity, this type of work can be performed without the involvement of specialists.
Installation of an acrylic bathtub
Acrylic is the most popular material for making bathtubs. Besides acrylic bathtub, homeowners often install a plastic liner over a cast iron or steel bathtub. This allows you to update the plumbing in the room without much effort and expense.
Installation of an acrylic bathtub (brand Kaldewei, Triton and others) can be done in several ways:
Nuances for installing a corner acrylic bathtub
Corner baths are a universal option that is suitable for both large bathrooms and small bathrooms. They are symmetrical and asymmetrical, the sizes of the bends are standardized.
If you choose the right triangular bathtub, then in a small room you can fit not only a washbasin with a cabinet, but also a washing machine or bidet. But there are some nuances that you need to know about before installing a corner bathtub (Ravak - Ravak, Laguna and others):
- All corner baths are classified by type of location into right-hand and left-hand. This is very important for the proper connection of sewerage and water supply outlets;
- Before you start installation work The walls must be leveled. If you don’t do this, it will be extremely difficult to level the bathtub;
- The corner bathtub is installed on legs. Supports are fixed around the entire perimeter, which will later be used to fasten the frame guides;
- In the place where the bathtub is adjacent to the wall, it is imperative to install a flexible baseboard. This will help avoid leaks.
Installation of a corner acrylic bathtub Part 1
and part 2
Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame
A frame diagram is the simplest option for installing an acrylic bathtub. This method is ideal for built-in plumbing, will fit perfectly into any interior and provide ergonomics.
Step-by-step instructions on how to install an acrylic bathtub on a frame:
- First of all, the surface of the walls is leveled. It is important not only to plaster the surface, but also to cover the walls with a finish - primer and putty. Installation of tiles can be done immediately or after completion of installation work;
- Similar actions are carried out with the floor. The floor in the bathroom should be perfectly flat, without wide seams or irregularities. This will make it much easier to install the frame level;
- To install the bathtub, you need to prepare a building level (its length should not be less than the diagonal of the bathtub), a hammer with a rubber attachment (to secure the frame), a wrench and an adjustable wrench. You may also need various gaskets and pipes to connect the water supply sewer;
- A flexible pipe is attached to the sewer outlet, the diameter of which must correspond to the outlet of the bathtub. A siphon is connected to it. The joints are treated with silicone sealant. After this, you need to wait at least 4 hours for the silicone to harden;
- Next, the frame is mounted. The wall guide is installed first - it will be the main one, so it is important to align it strictly according to the level. From this guide extend the side ones, to which the vertical posts from the floor are attached. They can be connected by welding or bolting (the first seems more reliable, but the second can be disassembled if something happens);
- When all the guides are connected to each other, the level of the corners is measured. There is one strict rule: when installing bathtubs and uneven frames, the lowered corner is raised, and not the raised one is lowered. All corners are secured with metal corner strips to provide rigidity;
- If all corners are at the same level, then a bathtub is installed in the frame. The overflow from the siphon is connected to the side hole, and the outlet from the sewer is connected to the central hole. The water outlet (water pipe) is located above the bathtub, so you can work with it after the installation work is completed.
- To prevent bath water from spilling onto the floor, you need to close the gaps between the wall and the side rail using a curb. It is also called plinth;
- The frame is closed using a screen. Additionally, it can be insulated so that the bath “keeps” the heat of the water longer. To cover the screen you can use tiles, panels or even artificial stone. It is best to work with durable, water-resistant materials.
After completing the installation work, the mixer is installed. To connect it, open a water outlet, connect a faucet to it, if necessary, also connect a sink or shower hose.
How to install an acrylic clawfoot bathtub
Most well-known bathtub manufacturers supplement their products with special fasteners and installation parts. Supports come complete with models manufactured by Jika, Roca, Riho and others.
How to properly install an acrylic bathtub with legs yourself:
- On the bottom of acrylic bathtubs, which are mounted on legs, there are characteristic protrusions for connections. To attach the legs, you need to turn the bathtub over and attach the supports included in the kit to these protrusions;
- To give the structure rigidity, the legs are also connected to each other. To do this, they are tightened with nuts and secured with studs;
- After this, the drain is processed (a siphon is connected to it). The water outlet does not need to be touched until the bath is installed on the floor. When everything preparatory work finished, you can start installing the bathtub;
- The legs are installed on the floor, using a level to check the evenness of the installation. If one corner is too raised, then, as stated above, all other corners rise. This is done very simply: the bathtub is turned over and some legs are adjusted to the desired level;
- For strength, we recommend lightly hammering the plastic supports with a hammer and a rubber working surface.
Acrylic and glass bathtubs must be handled very carefully. Plastic is subject to deformation under impact loads. When the installation process is completed, proceed to install the mixer, washing machine and other consumers.
Video: complete video instructions for installing a bathtub
Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks
Let us immediately note that this method is quite rarely used for installing plastic bathtubs. For acrylic plumbing, not only ideal evenness is important, but also the complete absence of shock or other loads that contribute to deformation. Brick supports are quite difficult to install with your own hands so that they evenly distribute pressure over the entire plane of the bathtub.
Step-by-step instructions on how to install an acrylic bathtub on bricks:
- The height at which the bathtub will be installed is determined based on the size of the bathroom and the size of the liner. The optimal height is considered to be 3 bricks;
- The classic chess pattern is used for installation. To implement this, the floor is leveled, the first row of bricks (2 pieces) is laid on it with cement mortar. 2 more pieces are installed on top of them, but in the opposite direction. So up to the required height;
- If to install a sliding frame system you don’t have to take exact measurements of the bathtub, then for bricks they are required. In addition, you need to calculate the location of the supports so that there are no sagging points. For example, 4 brick supports at each corner and two in the central part;
- While the solution hardens, you can start connecting the water supply system. If this is not a model with hydromassage, then all work is done according to standard scheme. From the sewer there is an adapter and a siphon with an overflow, and from the water outlet there are pipes for installing a mixer.
After laying the bricks, you need to wait until the mortar hardens and only then install an acrylic bathtub on them. Of course, the appearance of brick supports leaves much to be desired, so the most suitable materials can be used for their decoration. different options. This is a tile decorative panels, screen (as for a frame), etc.
Installation of a plastic bath
Installing a plastic bathtub with your own hands is no more difficult than installing an acrylic one. Moreover, all the options described above are suitable:
- On the frame;
- On the legs;
- On bricks or other available supports.
During installation plastic bath you need to be especially careful and careful. Any incorrect movement or miscalculation in the places where the supports are installed can cause cracks to form.
Rules for installing a plastic bathtub Standard:
- It is important to distribute the load evenly. This means that the supports, legs or frame must be positioned symmetrically across the entire plane of the bathtub. This will avoid deformation;
- To strengthen the frame and legs, special corners are often used. The corner is a rigid metal part that ensures the strength of the connection between the support and the surface of the bathtub. Of course, you can do without it, but then during operation the structure may begin to loosen;
- The pipes are connected before the bath is installed. In other words, first the supports or frame are installed, then the siphon and other outlets are attached (the shower stall is connected, etc.), and then the bathtub is installed;
- The last step is to install the hood, mirrors and curtains. For the latter, you will need to additionally secure the cornice to the walls or ceiling.
Installation of a cast iron bath
A cast iron bathtub is considered the most durable and reliable, but it is absolutely not suitable for installation in a small bathroom (where there is also a toilet in the bathroom). It is most advisable to install it in a private home, since the average weight of such a structure reaches 500 kg.
Step-by-step instructions on how to install a cast iron bathtub:
Installation of a steel bath
It is much easier to install a metal steel bathtub than a cast iron one. It is not that heavy and, depending on the size, is perfect for installation in a small bathroom. As with the installation of a cast-iron structure, the old bathroom is first dismantled, then the walls and flooring are cleaned.
Next, the bathtub is placed on legs or a frame is built for it. When the preparatory work is completed, the connections to the sewerage and water supply lines are ensured. After this, the bath is installed in its place and connected to the central water supply system.
Installing a bathtub in a tiled bathroom
All the methods described above imply that the tiles will be laid after the installation of the bathrooms. But what to do if you need to install an iron bathtub or shower cabin in a tiled room?
Installing a clawfoot bathtub
Installation of a cast iron, glass or steel bathtub on legs is carried out according to a scheme similar to the installation of an acrylic structure. Of course, depending on the size or shape, the distance between the supports may vary, but in general the technology remains the same.
To learn more about the process, we suggest watching a video of installing a clawfoot bathtub:
Installing a corner bath
Installation of corner structures is the most difficult to implement independently. Let's look at how to install a Cersanit corner bathtub on legs with your own hands:
- The old bathtub is dismantled and the installation site is thoroughly cleaned. It is important that the angle of the wall and floor is strictly 90 degrees;
- Adjustable legs are installed on the lower part of the structure. To connect them, there are special fasteners on the inner bottom side of the bathtub;
- The legs are fastened with bolts and tightened together using studs and threaded connections. Afterwards they are set approximately according to the level;
- After this, the sewer and water supply are connected, a siphon and other parts of the plumbing system are installed;
- The bathtub is turned over and its level is checked. Please note that level measurements are made strictly diagonally.
The main detail of any bathroom is a high-quality font. Installing a bathtub will require certain knowledge. Bathroom installation should be selected based on the types of construction. Bathtub installation will also depend on the type of product. What nuances need to be taken into account, methods of carrying out work, installation methods, basic rules for carrying out work, we will consider in more detail.
Premises requirements
You can install the bath yourself. The bathtub, which will be installed, must be made based on the type of substance from which it is made and the place where it is to be installed. Let’s take a closer look at how to install a bathtub with your own hands.
The installation location must meet certain requirements that must be taken into account. The surface where the product is planned to be installed must meet the following requirements:
- The surface must be cleaned of remnants of the old coating;
- Perform alignment;
- Provide high quality waterproofing. It should form a “font”. This method will help secure the perimeter if a leak occurs;
- Prepare a layer of screed. The floor level in the bathroom should be at least five centimeters lower than the rest of the surface in the house;
- Depending on the type of font and installation method, take care of the decorative coating. If the bath is made of cast iron, it must be of high strength. If installation is planned using a blank screen, you can limit yourself to painting and not lay tiles;
- Depending on the type of font, you need to prepare the surface of the walls. Cast iron and acrylic products are installed after final work. Steel before applying the decorative layer.
In some cases, tiling is done after installing the font. It is at the site where the bathtub is installed that the masonry should be as reliable as possible. A significant mass of the structure, together with water and people, must stand securely and not damage the surface of the material.
Installing a bathtub in a bathroom can be done in several ways. The fastening of the bathtub to the floor and walls must be sufficiently reliable to ensure a stable position of the structure. The process involves not only the installation of the product itself, but also the ability to connect a communications system.
The installation option is chosen based on the product model, dimensions, weight, and the substance from which it is made. The most popular are:
- With the help of legs. Included in the set, can be purchased additionally. Depending on the type of product, there may be different installation options. Fastened with wedges, bolts, glued to the base;
- With the help of the podium. Some type of structures can be mounted on a podium. It is made of brick, wood, and gas blocks. The method is more often used for steel and acrylic structures;
- Using a frame. This type of installation allows you to fix the product securely, distribute the mass evenly, and protect it from bends, irregularities, and deformation.
Only competent installation work will achieve stability, safety, long service. The method can reduce noise levels and retain heat for as long as possible.
It is advisable to secure especially heavy, unstable models using frames and podiums. They will additionally ensure rigid fastening of the device, stability, and protection against surface distortion and enamel damage. Wooden and metal structures are used for frames. Podiums are most often made of brick and gas blocks. They are decorated with tiles, tiles, mosaics. It is important to leave free access to communications.
Lightweight acrylic products must be installed using a frame. The legs in them perform a purely decorative function. You can also make a screen for them from hylocathon.
Steel structures are often additionally fixed around the perimeter, between walls, using metal corners. Due to their light weight, they are quite unstable and can turn over when filled. If the device is designed for use by people with significant mass, choose the type of installation on brick supports, using a brick transfer in front.
Bath installation sequence
Regardless of how the bathtub is installed, it is important to avoid distortions and tilts. Whatever method is used, the process must be carried out in a certain sequence, in compliance with the requirements, conditions, and safety precautions.
First of all, the device is brought in, the legs are installed, if they are the ones that will hold the mass, and they are connected to the water supply and drain. Some designs may be lightweight, others may have significant weight. It will be impossible to install such products alone.
There is a sequence of work:
- Taking measurements;
- Bringing the product into the room;
- Siphon installation. It must be carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions;
- Fastening the legs, if they are the ones to be installed on;
- Height and level adjustment. Cast iron products are made taking into account the angle for drainage. In steel, it is provided at the installation stage;
- Installation of the device at the place of use. It is advisable to do this as close to the walls as possible. In some cases, this is done using grooves in the walls or corners;
- Check the level for correctness. There is a type of legs that can be raised or lowered. Others need to be adjusted with additional pads. This could be tiles or metal plates.
The optimal height of the bathtub from the floor is sixty-five centimeters. It is necessary to leave free space for the siphon at the level of fifteen centimeters.
Checking and sealing the joint between the bathtub and the wall
Before completing installation, you must pay attention to the correct operation of the device. Paper is placed on the floor. The device is filled with water. Check the quality of the overflow. Then the water goes away. If the paper remains dry and the outer side of the siphon also, then the quality of the joints is normal.
It is best to attach the siphon by pre-treating all joints with sealant. It is not recommended to use corrugation.
The second indicator is the reliability of the installation. The product should not dangle; it should be fixed firmly.
With an ideal installation, there should be no gaps between the bathtub and the wall. If they do form, care must be taken to eliminate them. This problem is not only of an aesthetic nature. If water gets on the floor, dampness, mold, mildew, and possibly a short circuit will form.
There are quite a few ways to disguise such defects. They are selected based on the size of the gap, the material with which the walls are finished, and from which the bathtub is made.
Small defects can be repaired with tile grout, sealant, or cement. Larger ones are masked using polyurethane foam. There are special tapes, borders made of plastic, tiles, and rubber tapes that help cope with the aesthetic part of the problem. Even if the gap is sealed with decor, it must be restored to a decent aesthetic appearance.
Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Some won't last long at all. Others are quite expensive and provide such a strong grip that dismantling the product, if necessary, will cause certain difficulties.
Reliability and correct installation of the bathroom are of particular importance. Violation of technology will lead to danger during hygiene procedures, rapid wear of the product, and damage to the surface. For each type of product, installation conditions are strictly individual.
Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complex process that requires certain skills and abilities. A bathtub is a large item that needs careful handling: it’s easy to ruin the enamel, but it’s almost impossible to restore it. The intricacies of this process will be discussed in the article.
Model selection
If you intend to completely replace the bathtub, you must immediately decide on your choice. Only a competent approach will help you buy a plumbing fixture that will fully meet the needs of all apartment residents. Among the options on the market, the most popular products can be identified:
- Steel- They are affordable and easy to use. The peculiarity of this option is that, with certain skills, such a bathtub can be installed by one person. The only drawback is that the enamel of such a product deteriorates extremely quickly, so durability is out of the question. A steel bathtub is an ideal solution for small rooms where it is necessary to install the plumbing fixture as close to the wall as possible. This allows you to significantly protect yourself from deformation and the need for replacement in the future.
- Cast iron– have a long service life and do not require special treatment. However, such baths are characterized by extremely high cost and complexity of installation, which is caused by their significant weight. It is impossible to install a bathtub on a ready-made siphon, so you have to attach it to it in advance, which is quite difficult in cramped conditions of a small space.
- Plastic– have become very popular recently and can boast of their environmental safety, durability and attractiveness. appearance. Acrylic bathtubs are more expensive than steel ones, but they are cheaper than cast iron ones.
You should work with such a plumbing device very carefully, as it is quite easy to damage the surface. According to other characteristics, the acrylic option is considered one of the most suitable for modern bathrooms.
Having decided on the material suitable for manufacturing, you can begin to select the size of the product. During the selection process, you should pay attention to the height of the side, the depth of the bowl, its length and width. The most suitable height of plumbing fixtures can be determined by the average height of family members. In addition, you should definitely take into account the presence of children in the apartment. For adults, the optimal height is 60-70 cm. If you have children, it is better to choose smaller products.
Each type of bathtub has its own distinctive features in terms of dimensions:
- Cast iron products are presented in two versions: miniature (120x70 cm) and European standard (140x70 cm).
- The length of the bowl of a steel bath is 150-180 cm, and the width is 85 cm. Sometimes on the market you can find products made of economy-type steel. The length of this model is 120 cm, which makes it excellent option for a small room.
- Acrylic bathtubs come in a wide variety, so there are a lot of options when choosing. On the market you can find models with long and short bowls. It all depends on the overall configuration of the product.
The bath can be wall-mounted or corner. A distinctive feature of wall-mounted products is that they are mounted as close as possible to one of the walls, while corner products are installed at the corners.
Wall-mounted bathtubs come in the most different forms. The most popular is oval, which looks more stylish and elegant. As for corner baths, they are usually found with regular geometry, less often in asymmetrical shapes.
When choosing a bath for a city apartment, you need to take into account the available space, as well as the minimum set of furniture to be installed.
Finally, you need to decide on the manufacturer of the plumbing equipment:
- Cast iron bathtubs on the domestic plumbing market are represented by three major manufacturers: "Universal", Roca and Jacob Delafon.
- Among steel options, products of domestic companies are in great demand, and among foreign ones one can highlight the Spanish brand Roca and Portuguese products BLB.
- Acrylic bathtubs are presented in the greatest variety. On the market you can find products from European countries, Turkey and China. Among the most famous manufacturers is the Czech company Ravak, Polish Cersanit and Kolo, Spanish Pool Spa.
- At the moment, quaril baths are produced by only one company - a German brand Villeroy&Boch. The fact is that this company is both the developer of the technology itself and the creator of the material, so the right to produce products belongs only to it. For this reason, you do not need to believe if they try to sell you a quaril product from another manufacturer.
Preparing the bathroom
Before installing this plumbing product, it is necessary to prepare the entire room, which will allow for proper installation and guarantee the durability of the bath. First you need to pay attention to the walls. If the installation of a new bath is carried out simultaneously with renovations in the room, then the cladding should be carried out after installation. If repair work is not carried out, then the new plumbing fixture should be at least a few centimeters higher than the old one. Only in this case can you achieve an attractive appearance, and also make sure that there are no gaps.
Special attention It is also necessary to pay attention to the floor, which must be perfectly flat and reliable, without baseboards, capable of supporting the weight of the product being installed.
Even an empty cast-iron bathtub weighs quite a lot, so the base for it must be prepared correctly. Not every tile can withstand such a load. Ideal option It is believed that if the tiles were laid on solid cement, this ensures maximum strength and reliability. If there is even a minimal void under the tile, then from such pressure it will immediately crack.
If it is not possible to carry out repair work on the floor covering, you can simply lay two strong larch boards, which will reduce the pressure on the floor and tiles.
However, the wood must be pre-treated with fungicides, since the bathroom is a fairly damp room, so all materials should be protected from rotting. With the help of a plank cushion you can not only get rid of problems with the load on the floor covering, but also solve issues related to the height of the bathtub.
Installation of different types of baths
In the modern market there are large number bathtubs that differ from each other in their characteristics, cost, appearance, performance properties and installation features. In order for the installed plumbing fixture to last as long as possible and fully perform its assigned functions, it is necessary to take into account its type during installation.
Acrylic
Before installing such a product, it is necessary to attach to it all the guides for the legs, which will be installed crosswise - on special screws. Each acrylic bathtub comes with special instructions that explain how to mark the fasteners. The supports should be applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bathtub, marking all the necessary places with a pencil. The drilling depth cannot exceed 25% of the length of the screw.
It is necessary to install the drain fittings by turning the bathtub on its side. To ensure everything goes as smoothly as possible, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:
- each gasket must be lubricated with silicone before installation;
- the gasket is installed from the outside;
- it is better to choose a conical gasket, which is installed with the tip to the hose, so that during the tightening process it does not damage the spacer;
- Threaded connections must be tightened tightly, but not too tight, otherwise they may burst.
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When all this is done, you can turn the plumbing fixture over and install the legs. It should be noted that you will not be able to cope with the installation of such a product on your own, so you will definitely need a partner. A more experienced person should be on the drain side to constantly monitor its location and installation.
The acrylic bathtub should be moved as closely as possible to the wall, which will ensure more convenient use and prevent damage to the product. When the model is installed in its place, leveling and sealing against leakage should be carried out. First we use the sealant, and carry out the rest of the work only after it has dried.
After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to check for leaks, because after finishing the work it will be extremely difficult to return to the previous stage. If there are no leaks, then using silicone it is also necessary to seal the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the wall.
Metal
Installation of a steel bathtub is carried out in the same way as an acrylic one. The only exception is the installation of legs, which must be inserted into fasteners and secured with bolts and nuts. It is necessary to fix them as firmly as possible, tapping them with a rubber hammer. The legs should not wobble, otherwise the steel bathtub may damage them.
Most plumbers advise installing pieces of rubber under the surfaces of the legs in contact with the bowl of the sanitary ware, which will significantly reduce the ringing when filling the bathtub with water.
The most difficult thing to install is a cast iron bathtub, which is extremely heavy, so moving it is very difficult and dangerous for repairing the room itself. If the size of the room allows, you need to move the product to the bathroom and install it there. First - drain and legs, then leveling is carried out.
If a cast iron model is equipped with decorative legs, this greatly complicates installation. The fact is that the installation of such a product is a rather labor-intensive and responsible process that only an experienced and professional craftsman can handle. It will not be possible to install pads under the legs, since this completely destroys the attractive appearance of the product, and filing is extremely difficult, because precise measurements are required here.
Moreover, each time you will need to turn the bathtub over, move it or move it on its side, which is extremely difficult, given its significant weight. For this reason, to install a cast-iron bathtub, which is equipped with decorative legs, it is necessary to first level the floor surface (using materials of increased strength).
Jacuzzi
Hydromassage baths are quite interesting and useful products for improving people's health. The combination of water and air bubbles provides relaxing and therapeutic effects. The Jacuzzi first appeared in the United States of America, this happened in the middle of the last century. For a long time Only very wealthy people could afford a jacuzzi.
Now manufacturers of sanitary products offer a wide variety of models that are affordable. In the era of high technology, there are many hot tubs on the market today, which are distinguished by their small size, wide range of functions and attractive appearance.
The installation technology of such models has its own nuances and distinctive features, so it is better to entrust the installation to an experienced specialist.
Before starting installation, you should prepare all the diagrams and manufacturer’s recommendations, as well as accurately mark the places where adhesion to the sewer and installation will take place. electrical wiring, and ensure water supply. Due to the need to connect electricity, the installation of such a model must be carried out in strict compliance with fire safety requirements, otherwise everything can lead to dire consequences. In this case, special attention must be paid to the power of the device and the voltage in electrical system apartments or houses.
When installing a jacuzzi, you should also take into account the fact that sockets, switches and other devices must be located at a distance of at least 70 cm from the bath itself. Otherwise, it may lead to oxidation (due to high humidity). This may cause a fire.
Included with any hydromassage bath are special legs that allow you to secure the model in the required position and at a certain height so that there are no distortions. If you do not install the Jacuzzi on its legs, then during operation it will vibrate, which will not allow you to get the desired effect from its operation.
Installation of the legs should be carried out as carefully as possible, using a building level, which will allow for accuracy. After leveling, the Jacuzzi can be connected to other communications through a gate.
Built-in option
It will not be possible to install a built-in bathtub into the floor without a pit. Moreover, an ordinary dug hole will not work here. It will also be necessary to concrete the walls and floor, thereby ensuring the space necessary for installation and maintenance of plumbing fixtures. When installing a built-in bathtub, certain nuances should be taken into account:
- The contours of the pit must coincide with the contours of the bath and be overlapped by its sides. In other words, the bathtub should be supported by the sides.
- The depth should be such that the plumbing product is raised above the base by 50 mm or less.
- Access to the pit should be provided so that the connection and installation of the bath can be carried out without problems. All water and sewer lines are located here. The ideal solution All pipes will be hidden in an invisible hatch.
Work order
To understand the general principles of installing a bathtub, you should consider the sequence of work, which will be the same for any model, including acrylic and cast iron options. Of course, each type has its own distinctive features, there are also certain installation subtleties, but first you need to find out general principles and installation rules.
So, installing a bathtub includes the following steps:
- Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. Most of the models on the market are assembled using union nuts and rubber seals. Beginners often make the mistake of sealing joints, which in the future causes the product to break. The assembly diagram should be used.
- Installation of the bathtub on supports. Here you should also be extremely careful. There are quite a few designs of supporting elements for a bathtub. You can find both complex and simple options. Some craftsmen prefer to use foam blocks or bricks rather than factory legs. Steel options look much better when installed this way.
- Insulation and sound insulation. This stage applies to all types of bathtubs, except cast iron, which already heat up well and retain heat for a long time. In addition, they do not make too much noise when filling. Heat and sound insulation should be carried out using polyurethane foam, which is applied not only to the bottom, but also to the sides of the sanitary ware. The amount of foam directly depends on the size of the bath.
- Installation. For ease of use, any bathtub should be aligned relative to the horizon. During the installation process there is no need to lay down slopes, since this point is taken into account by the manufacturer when developing the bathtub. The support legs are equipped with screws for adjustment.
- Fastening. This stage also applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs, since their own weight cast iron product quite enough not to sag under the pressure of water and people. Fastening must be done using metal hooks, which are usually used for installing boilers. In addition, you can use special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bath. This fastening allows you to prevent depressurization during operation of the sanitary ware.
- Sealing joints. This stage is the last. This work can be done in several ways. In most cases, it will be advisable to use a white corner, but you can get by with self-adhesive border tape. If the gap between the bathtub and the wall is minimal, you can limit yourself to one bottle of sanitary silicone.
If you are installing a corner bathtub, you need to pay attention to a number of features. Such products come in rounded or oval shapes, and they must be mounted on a pre-prepared pedestal or wooden frame.
Important nuances
During the installation of the bathtub, you should be extremely careful so that the product can fully perform its functions and last as long as possible. Pay attention to the following points:
- the legs are mounted in such a way that the siphon outlet element (piping) can be installed into the sewer pipe without any problems;
- the bathtub must be installed with a slope;
- It is imperative to take into account the parallelism of the sides relative to the floor.
The tightness of the junction of the bathtub and the sewer must be monitored. When planning to start using a sanitary device, you should pour 10 liters of cold and hot water.
If a bathtub with hydromassage or other electronic functions is installed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the additional communications.
When installing a bathtub, you should also take into account the main problems associated with the material from which the product is made. Acrylic options have the following disadvantages.
- When hot water is added, the walls of the sanitary ware begin to “play.” This is caused by the fact that heated acrylic walls lose their original rigidity.
- Legs - another one weak side acrylic sanitary ware. Standard legs don't offer impressive stability. Even if you set everything to the ideal level, you still won’t be able to save the situation.
- The bottom of such a bathtub feels great under light loads, but it can sag greatly due to its significant weight.
- When water is drawn in, a drumming effect occurs, caused by the thinness of the walls of the acrylic bathtub. This deficiency is noticeable in any bathtub, but in acrylic it is most pronounced.
Cast iron and steel baths can boast of good thermal insulation, but acrylic options in this regard leave much to be desired. Heated water quickly warms up the walls, but also cools them just as quickly. This problem can be solved using conventional cylinders with polyurethane foam. In addition, this method allows you to solve the problem associated with soundproofing the bathtub.
Foaming is carried out as follows:
- the bathtub is turned upside down, and cardboard or other protective material(this insert is needed to prevent the acrylic surface from being scratched);
- the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt;
- foam is applied and residues are removed from the surface.
It is much more economical and comfortable to use a foam gun, but if you don’t have one, you can limit yourself to a simple cylinder.
To ensure the durability and efficiency of the entire structure, you should choose the material wisely drain fittings.
Most of the products on the market are made of polyvinyl chloride or propylene, which are reliable, attractive in appearance and durable. The latter material is much more expensive, but the walls are smoother, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages.
The idea of purchasing cheap models of drain fittings should be abandoned immediately. The fact is that budget models are non-separable, so they are not suitable for repair. After just a couple of months of use, the rust grabs the bolt so tightly that it is impossible to unscrew it.
You should not buy a rigid pipe. An excellent solution would be a corrugated hose, which is extremely easy to install and guarantees excellent water permeability. Thanks to this, you can be sure that the bathroom will not flood.
Dismantling
If the bath has expired, the siphons have rusted or become unsuitable for use, it is better to replace the old bowl with a new one.
Initially, it seems that this is quite simple and does not require professional skills, but it is extremely difficult to remove the bathtub correctly so as not to damage the enamel or other parts of the product. You need to proceed as follows:
- Make sure the bathtub legs are securely fastened, since during dismantling the plumbing product may fall and damage a person’s fingers. This may well happen if one of the legs is rotten or deformed. To fix the supports, special wedges should be used, which must be secured properly.
- Now you can begin to disconnect the siphon and drains. The drainage structure is usually disassembled quite easily, but there are cases when it is made of the same material as the bathtub. As a result of long-term use, the parts may rust to each other, so dismantling can only be done with the help of an angle grinder.
- The perimeter of the bath is secured with a cement-sand mortar. To get rid of the connecting layer, you can use a hammer or hammer drill. The frozen solution must be beaten off as carefully as possible so as not to damage the tiles.
- Once the bathtub is detached from the wall, you can begin the next stage of dismantling. The bathtub is moved away from the wall using a pry bar, which is used as a lever.
In this case, the weight of the structure must be taken into account. Do not forget that it greatly exceeds the weight of an acrylic or iron product.
It is much more difficult to dismantle a cast iron bathtub if it is necessary to maintain its integrity and attractive appearance. This type of plumbing fixtures is large in size and significant in weight, so dismantling it yourself will not be possible. Over the years of use, the bathtub is so firmly fixed to the wall and floor covering that it is extremely difficult to remove it.
Cast iron bathtubs can last a very long time, which is why they are in great demand. When starting dismantling work, determine whether it can be restored protective coating or not. There are many ways to significantly extend the life of a bathtub; one of the most effective and in demand recently is the use of an acrylic liner. The complexity of restoration work depends on a number of factors, including the weight and dimensions of the model.
The above instructions are designed to dismantle the product with minimal deterioration in the appearance of the room itself. This only means replacing plumbing equipment.
If you decide to carry out a major renovation of the bathroom (with the replacement of all communications and plumbing fixtures), then you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the product.
Dismantling without saving the bowl will be faster, since the algorithm of actions is very simple. The only thing you will need to pay attention to is safety precautions, because with the wrong approach you can damage your legs or arms.
To clean the bathtub, you need to carry out the following work:
- First, you should disconnect the siphon from the plumbing fixture itself. This can be done using a regular grinder.
- Using a hammer drill, you need to disconnect the bathtub from the wall.
- Since the bathtub will not be used in the future, you can cut it into several parts. This will not only simplify the dismantling process, but will also allow you to remove it from the premises without any problems.
- You can hit the bottom with a sledgehammer. Usually one good blow is enough for the product to split into several parts. You can effectively disassemble a bathtub into several fragments thanks to gas cutting.
- If dismantling is carried out by one person, the bathtub should be divided into many parts. Cast iron models are quite heavy, so each piece will be quite heavy.
When starting work, first of all pay attention to the material from which the sanitary ware is made. This will help you choose the most suitable dismantling method.
So, it can be noted that installing a bathtub is a complex and responsible process that requires a competent approach and care. It is important not only to choose the right plumbing fixture, but also to professionally prepare the room for its installation. In the selection process, you should pay attention to the material, size and shape of the product, as well as its manufacturer.
You should move steel and plastic plumbing products with extreme care, because such coatings can be damaged and deformed. The easiest way to work is with a cast iron bathtub, which is so heavy and durable that it is almost impossible to break. However, improper transportation can cause damage to the wall or door in the bathroom, as well as increased pressure on the floors. All this is also complicated by the fact that the installation of the bath takes place in small room, where it is extremely difficult for two people to fit.
One of the most important conditions For self-installation bathroom is the presence of a skilled assistant who can support the sanitary product, serve necessary tools and provide other necessary assistance. When installing this type of plumbing, you must be careful and careful, because an accidentally dropped bathtub can lead to a crack or breakage. If cast iron models can somehow be revived, then a damaged acrylic product cannot be repaired, so it will have to be replaced.
