How to plaster walls on lighthouses with your own hands: step by step instructions with photos and videos. Gypsum plaster walls Plaster walls on lighthouses that

Doing a major overhaul of an apartment, office or house, you will definitely encounter the need for plastering work. This process is very time consuming and requires professional skills. Therefore, it would be better to entrust this work to specialists. But if, in order to save on the repair budget, you decide to finish the walls yourself, then before mixing the mortar, check out the complete guide to plastering walls with your own hands given in our article.

Ways to level walls

Wall plastering can be done in several ways.

In the plane, using the rule (without beacons). This option is suitable if the walls as a whole are fairly even, without drops and strong deviations.
Alignment of the walls on the lighthouses. The second method is suitable if the walls have significant deviations and irregularities.

Requirements for plaster

The main requirements for the quality of the plastering work being carried out are set out in SNiP III-21-73. It is especially important to know them if you decide not to do the work yourself, but to hire workers. The quality of work is divided into 3 parts: for simple, improved and high-quality plaster.

With simple plaster, vertical deviations of not more than 3 mm per 1 m, but not more than 15 mm for the entire height of the room, are permissible. Thus, the maximum deviation of the wall with ceilings of 2.5 m is 7.5 mm. Smooth irregularities are allowed, for every 4 sq. m. - no more than 3 pieces. Their height or depth should not exceed 5 mm. Horizontally, the maximum deviation is 3 mm per 1 m.
SNIP for improved plaster requires more stringent compliance with tolerances. Vertically - no more than 2 mm per 1 m, but no more than 10 mm for the entire height of the room. Smooth irregularities are allowed - no more than 2 pcs. for 4 sq. m., with a depth of less than 3 mm. For each meter horizontally, a deviation of no more than 2 mm is permissible.
The most stringent requirements in SNIP are specified for high-quality plaster. Vertical deviations should be less than 1 mm per 1 m, but not more than 5 mm per room height. The maximum allowed is 2 irregularities per 4 sq. m., with a depth of less than 2 mm. At 1 m horizontally, a deviation of no more than 1 mm is permissible.

Alignment of walls with lighthouses

It is in this way that significant wall irregularities can be removed. Beacon profiles will serve as a limiter so that the work is done perfectly evenly with a tolerance of 1 mm / sq.m.

Cost of work

The price for plastering works is from 600 rubles. per sq. m. Let's calculate how much you can save if you do not hire workers.

First of all, you need to buy a puncher and a bubble level 2 m long. All other consumables will be listed below. All these accessories will be enough for 6,000 rubles, so you will save money after leveling one wall with an area of 15 square meters. m.

If you want to level the walls with an area of 90 square meters. m., then the savings will be at least 30,000 rubles! You will have the whole tool forever, and if you already have it, then it’s a sin not to use it. If we plaster the walls ourselves, then we will definitely be sure of their quality.

Choosing a mixture for plaster

Now popular solutions for plaster are mixtures based on gypsum and cement. We will talk about leveling the walls with gypsum mixture for the following reasons.

Of the gypsum mixtures, the most popular are the products of the German company Knauf - Rotband. There are also plaster mixes Osnovit Gipswell, Volma Sloy, Forman No. 10 and others.

Beacon profiles

Metal beacons

Metal beacons are narrow profiles made of galvanized iron with perforated holes that will act as limiters for plastering. Conducting a "rule" over them, we remove excess solution. The standard length of the beacons is 300 cm, the depth is 3, 6 and 10 mm. Fixing metal beacons on the wall is done using screws and a perforator.

Gypsum beacons

A flat wall can be made without metal beacons. Instead of them, artificial gypsum beacons are put up. This allows you to save time (no need to pull out the beacons, then plaster the strobes from them) and reduce the consumption of plaster.
The production of gypsum beacons is as follows:

on the wall where the plaster will be made, install the dowel-screws;
using a conventional or laser level, the screws are set to the desired height;
a metal profile or a flat wooden block is applied to the screw heads;
holding the profile with your hand, a gypsum mortar is placed under it;
removing excess gypsum, the profile is removed.

The resulting gypsum strip will be the lighthouse, such strips are made all over the wall.
For more details on how to make beacons from gypsum, see the video:

Plastic beacons

In addition to metal and plaster, there are also plastic beacons. They are in many ways similar to their metal counterparts, but are not made of galvanized steel, but of high-strength plastic. Fasten plastic beacons to the wall in the same way as metal ones with screws. The disadvantage of this type of beacons is their fragility, with strong blows the rule.

Required Tools and Consumables

plaster mixture;
beacons 3-6-10 mm;
perforator and adapter with a nozzle for making mortar;
dowels of the required sizes;
wood screws with a rare pitch;
crosshead screwdriver;
bubble level - 2 meters;
metal scissors or a grinder for cutting lighthouses;
a hammer;
plumb;
aluminum rule - 2 meters and a 2.5-meter rule for installing beacons;
wide spatula - 15 cm;
steel stroked;
bucket;
acrylic primer;
primer for processing concrete and smooth walls;
a wide brush or roller with a bath for applying a primer;
roulette;
hand protection gloves.

The list is impressive, but you probably already have some of it. The main costs are a puncher, a level and ironing, the rest is not very expensive. Also, you should not save on such a tool as a “rule” - this is a long aluminum rail with a sharp edge, with its help, the mortar is leveled during floor screed or plaster. The rule is convenient to check the evenness of the surface.

Plastering process

When all materials and tools are purchased, you can start leveling the walls. The preparation stage is especially important, since the correct installation of beacons is the most difficult job. You can do it in different ways, we will describe one of them available ways. With a laser level, this step becomes easier.

Wall marking, priming and installation of beacons

Related article: How to use gray on the walls?

Fastening beacons

Trim the beacons a little less than the distance between the dowels. In our case, 2.4 meters will be optimal.
Prepare some plaster mixture for fixing beacons. To do this, pour some water into a bucket and pour the mixture. Mix thoroughly with a spatula or perforator with a nozzle.
The consistency of the solution should be slightly more liquid than cottage cheese. Finished plaster must not fall off the trowel.
Apply plaster along the line so that it protrudes beyond the caps of the self-tapping screws. Press the beacon into the mixture using the rule, but no deeper than the caps stick out. It is most convenient to do this with two people - one person on top, the other on the bottom.

When arranging an apartment in an urban new building, during the rough finishing of facades and premises in an erected private house, or even just when carrying out a major overhaul in their old home, the owners almost always have to deal with a rather complicated operation. The curvature of surfaces manifests itself in different ways - it can be a blockage of the plane from the vertical, curvilinear curvature, and often - with a change in the direction of the bend ("propeller"), or a pronounced unevenness, relief of the wall, with the presence of dips, protrusions, bumps, which is typical, for example , brickwork. In any case, such walls are not yet completely ready for decoration - alignment is required to bring them into a verified vertical plane and ensure, if not perfectly smooth, but flat surface.

One of the most commonly used leveling methods is wall plastering. It is this technology that allows correct application, cope with almost any, large and small surface defects with minimal loss of space in the room (unlike, for example, the use of drywall). But in order to achieve the output of the created even surface into a single vertical plane, without its bends and fractures, some “landmarks” are needed, and this function is performed by a system of beacons set in advance.

So, in this publication we will consider how you can do it yourself. This process includes many stages, but some of them are already covered in detail on the pages of our portal. Therefore, in order not to repeat too much, individual steps will be considered only in passing, but with the obligatory attachment of links to more informative articles. In the same publication, it is planned to place the main emphasis on the technologies for creating a system of beacons that is verified and convenient for further work.

Preparation for plastering walls

The preliminary stage includes a number of activities. But always start with the readiness of the tools.

Tools for the job

First of all, you need to prepare a set of tools that will be needed for various operations. Most of them are shown in the picture below.

1 - as a rule, the main tool for leveling plaster on beacons. The length may be different, but for a novice master, the size of 1500 mm will be optimal.

2 - the building level necessary for marking, placing beacons and monitoring the quality of work.

3 - spatula. A whole set of spatulas with different widths of the working part can be used. A multifunctional tool used at all stages of work.

4 - ironing board. In terms of its functionality, it is not much inferior to spatulas, plus it allows for a fine smoothing of the surface with a freshly applied mortar.

5 - plaster shovels and trowels. Convenient when mixing plaster solutions and when applying (splashing) plaster on the wall. They are also multifunctional tools.

6 - falcon. A handy tool for picking up a large amount of mortar at once from a mixing container, for removing excess when manually working on a surface from a spatula or trowel.

7 - hatchet. Allows you to knock down protruding irregularities in preparing the wall for plastering.

8 - scoop. No good master will remove debris or fallen blots of mortar from the floor with a quality tool - a spatula or trowel. To do this, it is better to have a scoop on hand. In addition, it is convenient for them to collect the required amount of dry mortar from paper containers.

9 - grater. It is used for final leveling, elimination of defects in the plastered surface, grouting it to the smoothest possible state after the mortar has set.

10 - trowel. It can be convenient for the initial distribution of the plaster mix thrown on the walls by slides, removing excess, as well as for preliminary smoothing the surface after the mortar has set.

11 - angle spatula. Serves for exact removal of the plastered corners. Can be used for external or internal corners.

Preparing the wall for plastering

In order for the wall to be leveled with high quality, the plaster stably kept on it, not flaking or cracking, and the finish served for a long time and did not require a radical update in a year or two, the surfaces must be prepared in the most thorough way. If the wall is old, then often the preparatory stage becomes one of the longest and most laborious. But this is not at all a reason to ignore it or simplify it according to your own understanding - without comprehensive preparation, the expected result cannot be achieved.

The preparatory stage includes the following mandatory operations:

Cleaning the wall surface of all old coatings - lime, paint, ceramic tiles, showing at least the slightest sign plaster instability.
Carrying out a thorough inspection of wall surfaces, identifying defects that may affect the quality of future plaster and finishes. First of all, this applies to cracks and crevices, areas of erosion of wall material or crumbling mortar between masonry elements.
If such shortcomings are identified, the wall is repaired.
At the same time, all clearly protruding bumps or influxes are cut down, which will prevent further plastering of the wall.
Often, signs of damage to it or other "representatives" of microflora are revealed on the wall. This means that it is necessary to carry out a “treatment” with special compounds, followed by treatment with an antiseptic primer.
The surface must be as clean as possible from dirt and dust.
The final operation of the preparatory stage should be a complete, over the entire area of the wall, its treatment with a primer composition, at least in two layers. The composition of the soil may vary depending on the material of the wall.

Only after the last layer of the primer has completely dried, you can proceed to the stage of leveling the wall with plaster

A difficult but necessary process - preparing the wall for decoration

In this publication, all the steps of the preparatory phase are only listed. But this is not due to underestimation, but, on the contrary, due to the need to cover such an issue with all the details. And for this - follow the recommended link to the article of our portal.

How to level the wall with plaster

We proceed directly to the technology of leveling the wall with plaster. And the most responsible, perhaps, in this process is the stage of installing the beacon system. It is from him that the quality of the entire surface leveling depends. Therefore, this topic becomes the key one for this publication.

Prices for finishing plaster

finishing plaster

How to correctly and accurately install beacons on the wall for further plastering

It must be said right away: there are many ways to set up a beacon system, and each experienced craftsman has already developed his own approach to this issue. Of course, each of them believes that his method is the best and most accurate. We will not impose this or that opinion, we will simply offer for consideration several methods that are quite accessible for independent implementation.

As already mentioned, the optimal tool for such purposes is a laser plane builder. However, given that this is not yet such a common device in the standard tool "arsenal" of the home master, ways will be shown how to do without it without loss of accuracy.

A few words about the arrangement of lighthouses. Most often they are installed vertically, with a step that provides convenient work with the existing rule. So, for example, if a novice plasterer has a rule 1500 mm long (and with a longer tool, due to inexperience, you can be terribly tormented), then the distance of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm is seen as the optimal step of the beacons.

The last beacons on the wall on the left and right should be located at a distance of about 200 mm from the corners. If there are door or window openings on the wall, then they should also be vertically framed on both sides with beacons, which are located at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from the edge of the opening.

Thus, the recommended installation step for vertical beacon profiles is not a dogma, since in some cases it can be compacted. For example, from the corner to the edge of the doorway, the distance is 3100 mm. If you subtract 200 mm from the corner and, say, 100 mm from the door, a section 2800 mm long will remain uncovered. Installing one beacon will divide it into two sections with a width of 1400 mm, which is still too much for successful plastering, especially without accumulated experience. This means that the installation of two beacons with a pitch of approximately 1400 / 3 = 933.3 → 930 mm seems to be optimal.

There is a method for installing beacons along horizontal lines - however, it will require special skills in working with the rule, since the distribution of the plaster mixture will be carried out parallel to them. This approach will also be discussed below.

And let's start with one of the most convenient ways to install beacons.

A simple and accurate way to set up beacons using a laser plane builder

Any installation of beacons involves bringing them into one plane. And this plane is given by two lines. The first is a line that defines the thickness of the plaster layer. The second is a strict vertical line.

The advantage of a laser builder is that it immediately sets both lines, that is, it builds a plane, after which it becomes easy to install beacons.

Illustration
	So, we have a wall in front of us that requires leveling with plaster. First of all, after all preparatory work, it must be marked out - to determine the lines along which beacon profiles will be installed.
	From the corner line to the first beacon, 200 mm is measured. The wall is marked with a pencil.
	Further, along the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall, installation lines for subsequent beacons are outlined, in increments of 1200 mm (pencil marks are made). It may also be necessary to compact the step (these cases were discussed above), but you should not increase it. The last beacon on the wall should also stand at a distance of 200 mm from the corner.
	A laser level is set, and a vertical line is beaten off with a beam through the risk on the wall - this is the axis of the future lighthouse. In principle, this operation is easy to do with the help of a conventional building level, a long ruler (rule) and a pencil.
	A series of holes for the dowel-plugs are drilled along the intended line. Large ones are not required, usually a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 40 mm for a cork are sufficient. The bottom hole is approximately 50÷100 mm from the floor level.
	And then along the line - with a step of about 500 mm. The upper opening is approximately 50 ÷ 100 mm from the ceiling level.
	If the drill is good, and a drilling depth limiter is installed on the puncher (drill), then the work will not take much time. Such drilling is performed along all vertical lines of the beacons.
	Next, take plastic dowel-plugs ...
	... and gently curled into the drilled holes with a hammer ...
	... in all in turn, along all the lines of the lighthouses on the wall.
	The next step is to set the auxiliary plane, which will be parallel to the level of the wall after plastering. To do this, a distance of, for example, 100 mm is measured on the adjoining wall.
	A well-marked vertical risk is placed. You can additionally circle it so as not to lose it during further marking. Exactly the same operation is carried out at the other end of the wall.
	A laser plane builder is installed.
	Its rays are directed along the wall, so that they fall exactly on the risks just applied, with the obligatory coincidence on both sides of the wall. Thus, the auxiliary plane is set, and you can move on.
	The next step is to find the most protruding section of the wall: it is here that the plaster will lay down with a minimum layer. It is not difficult to carry out a check - a ruler, or, to be more precise, a square is alternately applied to the points where the dowel plugs were clogged. According to the trace left on the scale by the laser beam, readings are taken. They, if the spread is large, can be written on the wall or on a diagram drawn up on a piece of paper. The point at which the minimum values \u200b\u200bwill be shown is the highest. It is desirable to immediately highlight it, mark it in some way - from it we will “dance” further.
	For further actions, you will need self-tapping screws and a screwdriver (screwdriver) with a long sting. If the difference is small, then the length of the self-tapping screws of 51 mm will be enough.
	A self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel plug closest to the most protruding point.
	How far it protrudes from the wall surface will ultimately determine the thickness of the minimum plaster layer on the wall. Let us explain: for example, a layer of plaster with a thickness of at least 10 mm is planned (this is how it usually happens). A beacon profile 6 mm high will be pressed tightly against the self-tapping screw. This means that in order to set a total thickness of 10 mm, the self-tapping screw must protrude 4 mm above the wall level. This distance in this case will have to be set using a square or ruler. Measurement is carried out at the end of the cap of the self-tapping screw. Such a fuss will be only with the first point - then it will go much more fun.
	A curly screwdriver rests against the slots of the exposed self-tapping screw, and on its tip, in the area of intersection with the laser beam, a belt of masking tape is glued.
	Now it remains to draw a circle with a well-sharpened pencil that exactly matches the trace of the laser beam.
	Further - everything is generally simple. A self-tapping screw is screwed into each of the dowel plugs ...
	... and screwing is carried out until the circle printed on the tip of the screwdriver coincides with the trace from the beam of the laser builder. The end face of the cap of this self-tapping screw will stand exactly in a given plane. If necessary, make adjustments by slightly turning the self-tapping screw clockwise or counterclockwise to achieve maximum accuracy.
	This operation is carried out along all lines of beacons at all points where the dowel-plugs were hammered. Believe me, this is done very quickly and gives excellent results. As a result, all control points along the lines of future beacons (end faces of self-tapping screws) are set exactly in one plane.
	The next step is to measure the height of future lighthouses.
	Beacon profiles are cut according to the measured size. This can be done with metal shears.
	The profiles are cut and placed in the places of their installation.
	On the wall, just along the lines of the lighthouses, drilling was carried out, which means that dust must remain on the surface, which can interfere with good adhesion of the solution. Therefore, for greater reliability, it makes sense to once again walk with a primer exactly along the lines of the lighthouses. In the example shown, the master uses a spray gun for this operation - quickly and conveniently. Now you have to wait for the primer to dry.
	Further, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, a plaster mortar is prepared. Ideally, this should be the same one that will be used for the general alignment of the walls.
	The solution for attaching beacon profiles may be slightly thicker, similar in consistency, for example, to curd mass. True, it must be remembered that the life of such a solution may be less than stated by the manufacturer. Therefore, it is best, of course, to work together - one exposes the beacons, and the second at this time prepares the necessary portion of the solution.
	On the vertical line of the lighthouse, they begin to lay out a slide of mortar. Its height should be slightly greater than the level of the caps of the screws screwed in.
	The self-tapping screws themselves should not be closed with a solution - it will be easier to visually control the correct installation of the profiles.
	After that, the cut-off beacon profile is taken and sunk into the applied slide, exactly along the line of self-tapping screws.
	Now you need to make sure that the back side of the profile rests securely on the heads of all screwed screws, from top to bottom. Sufficiently frequent installation (with a step of 500 mm) of these reference points completely eliminates the possibility of profile deflection.
	Having achieved the required position of the profile, it is necessary to "ennoble" the entire lighthouse. Using a spatula, carefully remove excess solution.
	Neat slopes are formed on both sides of the profile. At the same time, it is important to control that the beacon profile does not change its position.
	After making sure that the profile is in the correct position - in its emphasis on the caps of the screws, these remaining sections are also completely covered with plaster. At the end of work on the lighthouse, its protruding top must be cleaned - the rule will subsequently move along this metal guide, and there should not be any interference.
	Having finished with one beacon, they move on to the next, where the operation is completely repeated.
	And so on, until the beacons are lined up along the entire wall to be leveled. After the solution on the beacons has completely hardened, it will be possible to proceed to plastering the surface.

No laser level - we work with plumb lines

The principle of operation is in many respects similar to that described above. The only fundamental difference is that in the absence of a laser builder, you will have to independently create a base plane for measuring level differences and accurately setting self-tapping screws. For this, two plumb lines are enough.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The wall on which beacon profiles are to be installed.
	At first, everything is exactly the same. With the help of the rule and the usual building level, vertical lines are drawn along which beacons will be placed. In addition, it makes sense to spend a little time and outline the horizontal lines - along them (at the points of intersection with the vertical ones) holes will be drilled and dowel plugs will be driven in. Why it is more profitable to arrange rows of self-tapping screws exactly along horizontal lines - it will become clear from the following presentation. The gap between these horizontal lines, that is, the installation step of the screws, is the same as in the previous example, that is, about 500 mm.
	On one side of the wall, from above, as close as possible to the surface of the ceiling, and at a distance of about 100 mm from the corner, a hole is drilled into which a metal pin is driven horizontally. You can also use a dowel-plug, into which you can screw a long, approximately 150 mm hairpin. A plumb line is suspended on this pin, which should not reach the floor level literally 15 ÷ 20 mm. The suspension point on the pin is located, for example, at a distance of 100 mm from the wall, as shown in the illustration.
	When the plumb line "calms down", in the lower part of the wall, closer to the floor surface, a vertical line is projected onto the wall, and at this point a hole is drilled for the second pin. After hammering (screwing) the pin, having achieved the exact position of the plumb line vertically, this position is fixed by making several turns of the cord around the pin. It is desirable that the maximum possible tension is created on the cord stretched between the pins. That's it, we have one vertical line fixed in space.
	Exactly the same operation is carried out on the other side of the wall. Here it is - the upper pin, with a suspended plumb line at the same distance from the wall surface ...
	... but the plumb line, after taking a vertical position, is fixed on the lower pin. Two vertical lines set the auxiliary plane. Now it remains to come up with a device that would allow projecting the surface of this plane at any point on the wall.
	The solution is very simple - another cord, the so-called slider, is pulled between the stretched plumb lines. It is tied so that the knots can slide, that is, move along the vertical cords. Here is the slider on one side.
	It easily moves along the vertical cord with the force of the fingers.
	And here he is on the opposite side. The fact that the plumb lines are slightly bent towards the center is not at all scary. This does not affect the position of the specified vertical plane.

Further - everything is very simple, in fact, exactly the same as in the previous example. The thread of the runner in this case performs the same function as the beam of the laser builder. The only difference is that this slider will have to be manually periodically rearranged from place to place. That is why it is more profitable to place holes for self-tapping screws on horizontal lines common to all beacons.

First, the position of the thread of the slider from the wall is also measured in all its sections in order to determine the highest point.
Then, at this point, a self-tapping screw is screwed in, the level of its cap is set from the wall, and you can make a mark on the tip of the screwdriver in the same way according to the position of the thread of the slider.
Then, sequentially moving the slider along the horizontal lines of the clogged dowel plugs, the screws are screwed in so that the mark on the screwdriver coincides with the thread of the slider.
Well, the further installation of profiles - everything is unchanged.

mortar beacons

One cannot but agree that the use of metal profiles for the installation of plaster beacons is very convenient. However, it must be borne in mind that after applying and leveling the plaster, after it hardens, these profiles must be removed.

This is due to several reasons:

Firstly, even a galvanized profile, due to microscopic damage protective coating, may begin to rust, and this will be manifested by the appearance of a characteristic color stripe on the finish.
Secondly, metal and plaster mortar have completely different indicators of density, thermal conductivity, and linear expansion. With temperature or humidity fluctuations, they react differently, and cracks can appear along the line of immured beacons.
Thirdly, the installation site of the beacons, after the completion of the decoration, will quickly be forgotten. And in the case when, for example, when drilling a hole for hanging a shelf, the drill hits a metal beacon, it is likely that a noticeable crack will form, and sometimes even a whole piece of plaster turns out along the profile line.

In principle, there is nothing difficult in extracting beacons - they are hooked, removed from the plastered layer. The “ditches” remaining after this are simply sealed with a mortar, and in this case, the wall surface that has already hardened and gained strength becomes the basis for work as a rule.

However, some master finishers, in order to avoid such an operation, prefer to form beacon guides directly from the plaster. This practice, however, is often criticized: it is much more difficult to work with a rule on such mortar guides, doubts are expressed about the accuracy of the resulting plane, simply because of the abrasive abrasion of the beacons when leveling the plaster.

However, such an approach still has the right to exist, and some plasterers even consider it the most perfect. In addition, one cannot discount the situation when it is necessary to work, and for one reason or another, beacon profiles are not available, and there is no possibility to urgently purchase them.

In addition, it is very difficult to textually describe the verified movements of a real professional finisher when performing plastering work. It's probably better to look at this:

Video: wall plastering master class

In most cases, interior finishing work begins with leveling the walls, which allows you to get even vertical surfaces and corners for further painting or wallpapering. To do this, plasterboard sheets are installed over the entire plane of the wall or a layer of plaster is applied. To ensure accurate spatial orientation when leveling the plaster, special beacons are installed on the surface to be treated. These are vertical slats, the outer edge of which is in the same plane and defines required thickness leveling layer at every point on the surface.

When preparing a solution for plastering walls on lighthouses, it is necessary to take into account the intended purpose of the premises, operational and specifications, which include:

temperature and humidity conditions;
type of enclosing structures;
the material chosen for the finish coating;
material resources of the owners of the premises.

Dry heated rooms can be plastered with any type of mortar based on cement, lime and gypsum. The likelihood of high humidity in bathrooms, toilets, showers and in the kitchen excludes the possibility of using gypsum mixtures.

Here, a composition of Portland cement, lime and sand is used to level the surface. There is also a restriction on the use of gypsum in unheated rooms. Such a solution cracks and falls off under periodic exposure to negative temperatures, followed by thawing.

Selection of the composition depending on the material of the walls

The most common materials for the construction of walls and partitions are:

red clay and silicate brick;
concrete;
light porous blocks;
wood.

Plastering of the walls along the lighthouses is carried out with any kind of solutions, depending on the heat and humidity conditions of the room. Cement-based plaster adheres well to the surface without additional reinforcement. But for reliable fixing of inexpensive gypsum and lime compositions, it is recommended to lay a polymer reinforcing mesh before applying them.

Leveling smooth concrete walls is practically no different from processing brick surfaces. However, a denser structure of the material requires preliminary impregnation with Concrete Contact, which is able to strengthen the surface layer to a greater depth than the soil.

Walls made of relatively soft porous materials must be primed and reinforced before applying the plaster layer. The cement-sand composition with the addition of lime is able to provide reliable protection of wall materials from moisture penetration.

To finish wooden surfaces, any kind of plaster mortars and even simple clay are used, applied over a nailed reinforcing layer of polymers, metal or shingles.

Dependence on the finishing material

Paints and varnishes are well fixed and look beautiful on light gypsum plaster. In this case, the consumption of paint will be minimal. The use of cement and lime mixtures requires preliminary impregnation with soil and painting for 2-3 times.

Cement-sand mortars are best suited for wallpapering, due to the good penetration of the wallpaper paste into the surface. In this case, the diluted adhesive composition acts as a high-quality primer and ensures reliable adhesion of the rolled material to the wall.

Laying ceramic tiles is carried out only on cement-sand plaster. The use of lime and gypsum mixtures is not allowed. The heavy weight of such a finish can compromise the integrity of the gypsum or lime layer.

Brief conclusions on the choice of material

The strongest and most stable layer of plaster for leveling walls along lighthouses with your own hands will provide cement-sand mortar. It is able to securely hold any material finishing, well resists moisture and temperature changes, and the components used are available at their cost.

Cement mortar is characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage is the complexity of the process and the long drying time of each applied layer.

Lime mixtures can only be used in dry heated rooms. They are well fixed on stone surfaces and have good ductility, which facilitates the leveling process and eliminates the possibility of cracking after the mortar dries.

Steam and air permeability contribute to the improvement of the microclimate of the premises. The alkaline composition eliminates the possible appearance of fungus or mold. The main disadvantages are a very long time for complete drying and a set of the necessary strength, reaching 2-3 months. The cost of lime mixtures is higher than that of a cement-sand mortar.

Gypsum mixes for leveling walls with plaster along beacons, they are used when decorating living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms, corridors and other dry rooms. The material is plastic and dries quickly, which reduces the time of work.

A wide range of ready-made formulations is offered for sale. for various purposes. The main disadvantages are high cost, moisture absorption and low mechanical strength.

Determining the consumption of materials

The consumption of the mixture when plastering the walls with your own hands on the beacons depends on the degree of curvature, vertical obstruction and the total area of the treated surface. The existing irregularities and blockage determine the average thickness of the plaster layer, which can be known with sufficient accuracy after the installation of the extreme beacons and the cords stretched over them, forming the future plane of the plaster layer.

Cord pull.

At several points it is necessary to measure the distance from the cord to the wall. Add up all the values obtained and divide by the number of places taken measurements. This will determine the average thickness of the plaster. Multiplying the resulting number by the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall determines the required volume of mortar.

The more measurements there are, the more exact result succeed. In addition, horizontally stretched cords make it possible to determine the most protruding part of the wall and the place of the greatest thickness of the plaster layer.

After that, depending on the type of binder component, the required amount of material per cubic meter of solution is determined:

cement M400 - 230-250 kg;
slaked lime - 210-240 kg;
gypsum - 850-950 kg.

The ratio of binder and filler is determined by the type of work operation (spraying, soil, coating) when plastering:

cement-sand, lime-sand 1:2, 1:3 and 1:1.5, respectively;
lime-gypsum-sand 1:1:2;
gypsum-sand-clay 0.25:3:1;
lime-clay-sand 0.2:1:3.

Ready-made dry plaster mixtures that are sold in stores building materials, are always accompanied by an inscription on the consumption written on the packaging. You just have to multiply this number by the thickness of the plaster layer in centimeters and the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall. After that, you can find out the required amount of material.

Necessary materials and tools

Before you plaster the walls on the lighthouses, you need to buy:

Portland cement M400 in accordance with the calculation;
river, washed or sifted sand;
PVA glue for faster setting and greater strength;
fiberglass or polymer mesh for reinforcement;
soil or composition "concrete contact";
T-shaped metal profiles 5-6 mm high;
dowels and screws of various lengths.

The process of plastering walls is carried out in stages and at each stage a certain set of tools is needed. So, to prepare the surface you will need:

hammer and chisel;
metal brush;
container for soil and a wide brush.

When installing beacons, you must have:

puncher with a set of drills;
hacksaw or grinder;
crosshead screwdriver;
plumb and square;
a ruler of at least 2 meters;
bubble or laser level;
durable cord.

To prepare and apply the mortar to the wall surface, you need to have:

container for mixing cement-sand mixture;
buckets;
plaster ladle and falcon;
trowel or trowel;
grater and half grater;
rule 1.5-2.0 meters;
spatulas.

Since some of the work is carried out at a height of more than 1.5 meters, it is necessary to manufacture or purchase scaffolds from which work operations will be carried out. The use of a ladder is allowed, but it is not as convenient and makes the job more difficult.

Preparatory work

Preparing the surface for plastering consists in thoroughly cleaning it from old coatings, dirt and cement streaks. Before aligning the wall with the lighthouses, it is necessary to complete all the work on laying engineering communications, installing windows and doors. After that, the surface is primed with a deeply penetrating solution and a reinforcing mesh is fixed on it (if necessary).

Installation of beacons

The quality and position of the plaster plane depends on the correct location of the beacon rails. The order of work is as follows:

At a distance of 100 mm from the upper left and right corners of the wall, self-tapping screws with a length of at least 100 mm are fixed in dowels so that they protrude 50-60 mm above the wall surface.
Near the head of each screw, a plumb line is suspended on a cord, which does not reach the floor by 100-200 mm.
At the bottom, 2 more self-tapping screws are screwed along the plumb lines, to which the lower end of the cord is tied.
At a distance of 100 mm from the fixed cords, vertical lines are drawn along which 2 extreme beacons will be fixed on the hardware.
The plane between the extreme rails is divided into several equal vertical spans with a width of not more than 1500 mm. In this way, lines of intermediate beacons will be obtained.
2-3 horizontal twine is tied to the vertically stretched cords and, by moving them up and down, the most convex place on the wall is determined. After that, you can accurately determine the position of the required vertical plane, correctly place the beacons and accurately calculate the consumption of materials.

Hanging beacons.

Beacon rails are fixed along the edges with self-tapping screws, and in the middle part they are fixed with cement mortar. The use of gypsum for this purpose is not permitted.

Application of plaster

Plastering the wall is carried out in 3 stages, which are called spraying, soil and coating. They are applied in strict sequence and only after partial drying of the previous layer.

The thickness of the spray is 30-50 mm. The consistency of the material corresponds to ordinary sour cream. It is applied to the moistened surface from the bottom up and from left to right along each strip between the beacons separately. The prepared solution is thrown onto the surface with a trowel, taking it from the falcon, or smeared on the wall with a tool.

Spray.

Using a layer of soil, a rough leveling of the surface is performed. By its density, the solution corresponds to a soft dough. The maximum thickness of one layer is 20 mm. If this is not enough, then the primer is applied in several passes after the previous layer has begun to set.

As a result, the solution should slightly cover the surface of the fixed beacon profiles. To do this, excess plaster mixture is removed using the rule, which is supported by neighboring beacons and stretched along them from the bottom up.

The last, third layer, covering, serves for the final leveling and fixing of the surface. The density of the solution corresponds to kefir. It is simply poured onto the surface from a ladle and processed with a wet grater until a flat plane without visible defects is obtained.

The correct technology for installing beacons simplifies the plastering of corners, since two vertical planes will ensure an even corner.

The final stage of work

At the final stage, all beacons are removed from the plaster layer, which, as a result of corrosion, can form dark spots on the walls. The resulting grooves are smeared and leveled. After that, it is necessary to wash the surface with water.

To do this, it is simply poured onto a section of the wall and rubbed with a soft polyurethane trowel. This process corresponds to the grinding of the finished plane and facilitates the final filling.

Peculiarities

The method of plastering walls along lighthouses has several features. Lighthouses are a kind of guides that limit the plane of the surface intended for leveling. If they are correctly set, correlating the position with the geometric shape of the room, you can easily reduce labor costs during the alignment of the walls. It is necessary to make a forecast of the consumption of plaster at the stage of choosing the initial surface (the one that will be oriented in the future when setting the planes of other walls).

When using ready-made lighthouses, a certain amount of useful volume of the finished room is reduced. The material itself reduces the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, since it has the same thickness dimensions along its entire length. It is better not to put plaster under the entire lighthouse. It is preferable to lay it out at an angle between the base wall, which should be perpendicular to the other two, and the material itself. It will help make the wall more even.

Using this method, you can save on the amount of plaster used and save usable space in the room.

If you correctly align the walls with the help of beacons, you can get a perfectly flat surface with a guaranteed result. But the correct arrangement of profiles has a significant impact on the final result. To correctly carry out finishing work, you can use the system of plumb lines. Along the edges of the wall, it is necessary to lower a couple of plumb lines. Then two slats are installed vertically along these two plumb lines, threads are pulled between them (a flat vertical plane is obtained, along which plastering can be done).

To simplify the task of setting beacons, some manufacturers have prepared special metal or plastic mounts. Such details are best used by beginners in the early stages of wall alignment. They will increase the pace of work and further reduce labor costs for plastering. When inviting builders to work on plastering walls, it is important to know that they themselves need to fulfill the production standards, which are about 10 hours per room. You can do it yourself faster and better.

Varieties

There are several types of beacons used to level walls.

Wooden beacons are made from a single block of wood. They can be found anywhere. The price of this product is low, which attracts buyers.
Profiles made of light metals or plastics are specially designed lighthouses. They are shaped like the letters “L” or “T”, they are well connected to the base, on which glue or a layer of plaster mixture is subsequently smeared.

When purchasing such profiles, it is important to pay attention to the rigidity of the material. Those lighthouses that are made of too thin a sheet of metal will sag, so they can create great difficulties during operation. Metal beacons cannot be warped, unlike wooden bars.

metal profiles can be used many times, if necessary, they can be left in the wall. However, such material can become rusty over time, so it is recommended to remove the profiles after successfully plastering the surface.

Lighthouses for leveling walls from a plaster mixture are made with their own hands according to the following scheme.

It is necessary to evenly arrange the chain of nails, using plumb lines for this.
After the strip of nails is created, you need to apply lime paste or plaster mix on their hats.
After the solution has hardened, its excess is removed to the level of caps.
Then, a straight long bar should be attached to the formed tubercles and the solution should be applied to the resulting gap.
When the solution hardens, the bar must be removed by tapping along its entire length.

As a result of these manipulations, an even gypsum beacon is obtained, which is convenient to navigate when leveling the walls.

Application area

The beacon method for leveling surfaces has a large scope. Light metal profiles are used to level the surface of the ceiling. However, in this case there are several important nuances, which must be taken into account when finishing. With a large height difference on the ceiling, it is recommended to apply plaster without the use of beacons, since a layer having a large thickness may fall. Even applying an intermediate layer of primer will not correct this situation.

With the help of beacons, drywall sheets can be leveled if they have holes or indentations for any reason.

Important to remember: completely using the beacon method, only moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets should be plastered. The surface of a simple drywall must be plastered only in parts. Before applying the plaster, it is important to prepare the drywall. It is necessary to clean it from various contaminants, remove dust and only after that apply the plaster mixture.

How to level drywall?

Profiles made of light metal or plastic, when leveling drywall, act as an auxiliary guide to create a perfectly flat wall surface. At the same time, the height of the rail should be minimal, approximately 6 mm, so that the plaster layer is thin and adheres well to the sheets. It is necessary to plaster the surface in a warm room with normal humidity; to maintain health, it is better to use a respirator and gloves. For leveling drywall, you need to use only gypsum-based plaster mixtures.

After that, you can attach a beacon to the wall. First you need to fix the self-tapping screw or dowel under the ceiling on the wall at a distance of about 15 cm from the corner. The gap between the cap and the wall determines the thickness of the plaster. Then, next to the floor, opposite to the first self-tapping screw, a second one is placed, which must be placed on the same vertical with the first. Between them it is necessary to lay pieces of a mixture of gypsum, which are above the level of self-tapping screws.

After that, it is worth attaching a metal or plastic profile to the self-tapping screws and drowning it in plaster. The correct location of the lighthouse must be checked with a building level. When deviating from the ideal horizontal, you need to slightly tighten or unscrew one of the self-tapping screws and recheck the position of the rail. All these manipulations can be performed until the beacon is fixed strictly vertically. It is also necessary to install a beacon from the other edge of the wall.

A rope should be stretched between the slats and the rest of the beacons should be installed between them along its length.

The distance between the profiles must be less than the length of the rule that will be used to align the walls. At the end, all rails should be in the same vertical plane. The same method is used when plastering wall panels from aerated concrete.

Installation methods

Professionals use many different ways to install beacons. Therefore, there is a lot of controversy about which particular method of setting the ball system is the best. Consider several methods for installing profiles that are fully available for self-assembly.

With a laser level

The placement of beacon profiles is designed to create a single, solid plane, which should be set using two lines perpendicular to each other. One helps to calculate the thickness of the plaster layer, and the other is a strictly vertical line along which the plastering takes place. The advantage of the laser builder is that it can build two lines at the same time. After that, the installation of beacons no longer seems such a difficult task. The cost of such a device is quite high, not every person can afford to purchase it for repair. Most often, professional builders buy it, provided that this laser builder will be reused.

Plumb

In the absence of a laser level, you can use an older and proven method: mounting profiles on plumb lines. The latter are usually two cords that are attached to the ceiling near the corners. On the wall itself, several horizontal lines are marked, which set the step from one dowel to another. Then another cord is pulled perpendicular to the first two ropes. It is called a slider and is used in cases where it is necessary to accurately mark the gaps between all future holes for dowels, on which beacons will subsequently be attached.

string method

This method appeared not so long ago, but has already become quite popular. It has a lot of advantages that are difficult to dispute. For example, this is the simplicity and speed of installing profiles, options for horizontal and vertical installation, as well as convenient application of plaster. In order to install one profile in this way, two channel platforms for fasteners are needed, in which tension and adjusting bolts must be installed.

The role of the string in this case is played by an elastic wire made of high quality steel (approximately 1.5 mm in diameter).

With fasteners

This method of installing beacons is more suitable for beginners in the repair business and non-professionals. The fixing of such fasteners for mounting profiles must be carried out strictly following the instructions with which they are sold. The installation of this material depends entirely on its type.

How to install beacons?

Beacons can be installed using several technologies. There are many video tutorials that explain how to install profiles. Often they contradict themselves. Installation of beacons can be done in several stages.

From the very beginning, you need to carefully examine the surface of the walls in a vertical plane, using the level. It is necessary to note the most noticeable deviations from the norm with a marker on the wall. Then, using a level, it is necessary to examine the wall along a horizontal plane. The most noticeable bulges are best removed (cut with a perforator).

Then you need to remove the markup for the beacons. You need to start from the corners: it is important to move away from them by about 30 cm (the minimum tolerance is 25 cm). Next, you need to make marks that are about 160 cm apart so that the rule can reach from one lighthouse to another. You can not divide the wall into unequal parts. For example, if approximately 2 meters of surface remained during marking, it is better to set the profile at 1 m.

After that, it is necessary to remove all dust and other contaminants from the wall, and then treat with a deep penetration primer. These manipulations will help maintain the integrity of the wall, protecting it from fungus and mold. After waiting for the wall to dry completely, it is worth taking a metal profile, attaching it to the line planned in advance and screwing a self-tapping screw in the upper part of the lighthouse. Then, a plumb line must be fixed to the head of the self-tapping screw, which will help you navigate with those places where you need to make holes for other self-tapping screws.

It is necessary to align the lighthouse so that it is a flat vertical plane. If it does not work out, you need to pull out the screws and level the beacon along the plumb line until it is installed evenly.

Only after obtaining the ideal result, you can remove the plumb line. The same work must be done with other beacons.

It is important to fix the beacons with plaster in several places. so that some of them are inside the plaster layer. Then it is worth leaving the structure for several hours, so that it can dry out. Be sure to check the dryness of the plaster on the lighthouses, otherwise you can violate the integrity of the structure. After that, you can start plastering the wall.

Upon completion of these manipulations, it is possible to leave lighthouse profiles only if it is subsequently planned to lay out the wall with ceramic tiles. In all other cases, beacons should be removed. Wallpaper or paint will not be able to hide the presence of beacons in the wall. Therefore, after the completion of the plastering process, it is better to dismantle the profiles. It is necessary to remove all the screws, pull the beacons out of the walls, then close the holes with plaster.

What are the types of plaster compositions? The article discusses the technology of plastering walls on lighthouses, the sequence and rules for preparing the base and.

Beacon plaster: pros and cons

Plastering is the most common way to level walls and ceilings. Properly carried out plastering work allows you to get a smooth, perfectly vertical surface of the walls. To simplify the process and improve the result, plaster beacons are used.

Plastering walls on lighthouses: features of alignment in this way

In this way, you can align the walls from various materials: brick, concrete, aerated concrete, plaster and even wood. In the layer of plaster, you can hide technical communications, such as wires for electrical networks and low-voltage systems. The walls, leveled with plaster, are a solid basis for fastening, hanging shelves and various household appliances.

Varieties of mixtures for leveling

There are several main types of plaster mixtures:

plaster;
gypsum-lime;
cement-sand;
cement-lime.

Currently, plaster compositions based on gypsum binder are most often used indoors with a normal level of humidity. They dry relatively quickly compared to cement mortars and are more convenient to use, but more expensive than cement counterparts.

The choice of beacons by size

To form a plane during plastering, a special galvanized beacon profile is used. The most common are 2 profile sizes: 6 and 10 mm high. Using a thinner profile allows you to reduce the layer of mortar applied to the surface, but requires better fixing and more experience in work. The 10 mm high beacon is more bendable, which allows you to mount it less often. For plastering external corners, special corner profiles are used.

What are the plastering technologies with beacons

Wall plastering on lighthouses can be done manually or by machine:

With the manual method, the composition is kneaded with a construction mixer in a container (large bucket) and thrown onto the walls with a spatula or trowel.
With the machine method, 2 options for preparing the mixture are possible: with a mixer manually or in a plastering machine.

The choice of method depends on the type of plastering machine. Next, the plaster mortar under pressure is fed through a hose to the wall. Then, in both methods, the mixture is leveled by the rule.

How to plaster with your own hands with beacons: preparatory work

Before you need to properly prepare the walls. Must be removed old paint, putty, wallpaper, etc. to the base. If the surface is already plastered, peeling, destroyed or weakened areas must be removed.

materials

To carry out the work you will need:

Plaster composition.
Primer.
Beacon profile.

Wall preparation

After cleaning the surface to the base, it is imperative to prime the walls. Before priming, the walls must be cleaned of dust.

The type of primer should be selected based on the surface material.

Installation of beacons for alignment

After priming, a gypsum plaster mortar is thrown onto the pre-marked places, beacons cut to size from floor to ceiling are installed, and pressed into the solution at a certain distance with the help of long rule. Excess solution is removed with a spatula. With sufficient experience and high speed of work, alabaster can be used for fastening.

Distance between beacons

Beacons are installed at a distance of 150-200 mm from the corners, then every 80-150 cm. The distance between the profiles is chosen based on the length of the rule. With a large distance between the beacons, it is not very convenient to work.

How to display markup

You can mark up in several ways.

laser level.
Plumb.
Regular bubble level.

When marking with a laser level, the tool is set so that the beam is projected parallel to the plane of the wall. A line is applied to the rule at a certain distance from the edge, the rule is set on the beacon and pressed into the solution according to the coincidence of the laser line with the line on the rule.

When installing with a plumb or bubble level, extreme beacons are installed, they are set strictly vertically, a thread is pulled between them and intermediate profiles are set along the thread.

On sale you can find systems for fastening the beacon profile. In them, the fasteners are installed on the wall and are adjusted vertically using self-tapping screws. These systems are not widely used due to the increase in the cost of consumables and the thickness of the plaster layer.

Mixing solution

The solution is kneaded with a construction mixer in a large bucket. The container should be of such volume as to minimize the number of batches, but at the same time, such that it is convenient to move it. Instructions for mixing the mixture are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Water and tools must be clean. The ingress of pebbles into the solution will not allow you to get a smooth surface, kneading in a dirty container reduces the life of the gypsum mortar.

How to level the walls in the apartment with the help of beacons

After installing the beacons, the solution to which they are fixed is allowed to dry. Then the solution is thrown with a spatula or trowel, the excess is removed with a trapezoidal rule. In places where there is not enough mixture - add a solution. The rule is carried out, tightly pressing against the lighthouses, from the bottom up with wave-like movements.

The solution remaining on the rule is thrown onto the wall. When the solution begins to dry, moisten the surface with a sponge or spray gun and smooth it with a wide spatula or trowel. This allows you to get ideal, suitable for painting or wallpapering without putty.

Beacons must be removed after the plaster layer has completely dried, otherwise rust spots or cracks may appear.

How to plaster on a plaster wall

Before plastering gypsum or aerated concrete walls, they must be well moistened, because. these materials absorb water well, the solution dries up, which leads to the formation of cracks. To strengthen the plaster, you can use a plastic plaster mesh. It is attached to the wall before installing the beacons in a thin layer of plaster.

On concrete and brick

Concrete walls are treated with primers of the Betonokontakt type to create a rough surface and improve the adhesion of the plaster composition to the base. The seams between the bricks are embroidered.

How to align on wood

On a wooden wall, before plastering, waterproofing is arranged, for example, from glassine, then a metal plaster mesh is fixed in a thin layer of mortar, additionally fastened with a construction stapler or upholstery nails, after which beacons are installed and the main layer of plaster is applied.

How to install for leveling at corners and slopes

To align the corners, a special perforated galvanized corner profile is used. Attach it to the corner after installing the beacons on both planes. The easiest way to install a corner profile is to apply plaster mortar to the corner and press the profile to the desired depth using a long rule.

How to put beacons under the finish alignment

Beacons must be installed very carefully, because errors in the installation of beacons will lead to uneven walls, which will be very difficult to fix in the future. According to SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and Finishing Coatings", with high-quality plaster, vertical deviations of no more than 1 mm per meter and irregularities no deeper than 2 mm are allowed.

Carefully prepare the walls before starting finishing work.
The primer is a very important stage of work, you should not neglect it or save on the cost of the composition.
The plaster mortar should be mixed to the maximum in large numbers, which you can slowly work out during the life of the solution.
When carrying out work, it is important to avoid drafts and sudden changes in temperature. They lead to the appearance of cracks or peeling of the plaster from the base.

Plastering walls along lighthouses is a rather complicated process that requires great accuracy and speed of work. With insufficient experience, it is recommended to "practice" on the walls, which will then be closed, for example tiles, or in utility rooms where surface quality is not of great importance.

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