Artificial decorative stone is a common building material, which is characterized by high performance and versatility. It is used for cladding internal and external work surfaces. This material can be made independently at home. This article will tell you about the advantages of artificial stone, the features of its production and installation.
Today, the range of stones for wall decoration is very wide. It can be easily purchased in construction stores and markets. If necessary, this finishing material can be made by hand. The industrial production of such bricks is very similar to manual production, since both cases involve the use of special injection molds.
Different materials are used for its manufacture. The most common ones are concrete, plaster and acrylic. For the subsequent processing of stone, various technologies can be used: firing, glazing, etc. Liquid decorative brick, which has the appearance of an unhardened composition, is very popular. You can also purchase or make your own flexible type of artificial stone.
For finishing external surfaces, it is customary to use special boards, which are characterized by low porosity and resistance to low temperatures. In turn, the stone for interior decoration walls are lighter, which makes them easier to install.
The environmental properties of this facing material depend on what components were used in its production. For example, cement and gypsum have natural properties, and their structure facilitates the penetration of air and moisture.
Useful information! If the decorative stone contains acrylic, it is not recommended to veneer surfaces located in close proximity to heating devices. This is due to the fact that when heated, this material releases harmful chemical compounds that can cause harm to human health.
Artificial stone from the manufacturer has an affordable price, which undoubtedly makes it more popular among consumers than natural stone. If you pick up quality material or use the right components in its manufacture, then it will not be inferior to natural cladding.
Advantages and disadvantages of artificial stone for interior wall decoration
Decorative stone price per sq. meter ranges from 600 to 1500 rubles. The cost of finished products from the manufacturer depends on many factors, namely: composition, texture, color, etc.
Using non-natural decorative stone for walls, obtained independently, allows you to save money, as well as perform the necessary pattern or continuous installation without any difficulties. This material also has other positive qualities that we recommend paying attention to.
First of all, you can make artificial stone yourself in the same place where it will be laid. This eliminates transportation costs. This facing material is characterized by its small thickness and light weight, as it most often takes the form of thin plates. Thanks to this, the overall weight of the structure is significantly reduced.
Decorative stone of non-natural origin has good strength characteristics (especially if it has undergone additional processing). If necessary, you can make an artificial stone of any color. To do this, appropriate pigments are added to the mixture.
The shape of the interior stone can be different. You can independently make both straight plates and plates of arbitrary dimensions. This property is very important, as it allows you to create facing elements that are ideally suited to the installation site.
A mold for such decorative bricks can be purchased or made independently. On the construction market you can easily purchase products with a wide variety of textures (smooth, embossed). It is worth noting that special polymer additives can be added to the mixture to obtain such a facing material. They allow you to make a flexible stone, which will allow you to change its shape even after laying.
From the point of view of decorative properties, artificial material is more acceptable. It can be used to cover not only walls, but also interior elements such as fireplaces, stoves, etc. However, in the latter case, it is necessary to select a material that has fire-resistant qualities. Decorative stone finishing can be used to transform the appearance of arches. Photos of such arched structures can be easily found on the Internet.
Useful information! Due to its resistance to moisture, it can be used to organize an ornament or a solid structure in bathrooms. But in this case, it is recommended to pay attention to the composition of the artificial stone.
The material, made by hand, does not require special care and can become a decoration for any interior. However, like any other product, artificial brick also has some negative sides. For example, wild stone has a fairly large mass. The surface for its installation must have high strength and endurance. In addition, products can have a rather complex, heterogeneous shape, making it difficult to select individual blocks during installation.
However, walls made of wild stone can decorate the interior of any room. It suits both classic and modern styles equally well. In order to decide on the choice of material, you need to pay attention to the photo of wild stone, since there are many varieties of it.
Overview of types of artificial stone for wall cladding
Such building materials are classified according to two main parameters, namely: production method and composition. Depending on these criteria, decorative artificial brick is divided into:
- ceramic;
- plaster;
- concrete;
- polyester;
- acrylic;
- liquid.
Ceramic. Stone from this material is produced in several stages and also undergoes special heat treatment (firing). Making such cladding yourself is a rather complicated procedure, so it is rare. Production on an industrial scale requires a fairly large area and high consumption of electrical energy.
Plaster. One of the types of decorative stone, which is very popular in the modern construction market. It is performed using special molds and casting technology. For making at home, as a rule, this type of decorative brick is used. However, facing material made of gypsum is not resistant to low temperatures. Therefore, it can only be used for finishing interior surfaces in rooms whose temperature is not lower than +18 °C.
Concrete. This type of decorative artificial stone, depending on the components, is divided into two types. The first of these includes ingredients such as cement and sand. It is slightly more expensive than gypsum, but is also suitable for shaping at home. Cement-sand facing material is resistant to low temperatures.
The second type of concrete stone is called monumental. The method for producing such products is called free molding. Thanks to this method, artificial boulders for garden decoration, as well as entire concrete slabs, are produced.
Polyester. This type of finishing stone for walls includes special mineral fillers. They are distinguished by the fact that they are capable of turning into a solid state under the influence of high temperatures.
Pay attention! Polyester resin is a fairly cheap product, so the cost of the finished product is low.
Among the disadvantages of this building material, its specific smell should be noted. It wears off over time, but is still felt for a long time after installation.
Polyester stone is not suitable for making it yourself, since its production technology is too complex. The process of forming products occurs in a vacuum under the influence of very high temperatures.
Acrylic. Manufactured by casting. It turns into a solid state without the use of high temperatures, therefore it is classified as a cold-curing decorative facing material. Has a presentable appearance. For clarity, it is recommended to study the photo of artificial stone for interior wall decoration, made on an acrylic base.
The process of forming acrylic stone implies the same conditions as for the gypsum type. It is characterized by temperature plasticity, so it is possible to change the shape of the finished material. Moreover, this does not affect its quality characteristics.
Liquid. A special type of decorative artificial stone produced using a gel coating (gelcoat). Features of the technology for manufacturing liquid stone affect the mechanical properties of finished products. It is also worth noting that cast decorative tiles are more resistant to temperature changes and moisture than liquid ones.
How to make a mold for artificial stone with your own hands
The matrix for casting this decorative finishing material It will not be difficult to purchase in a specialized store. To save money, you can make such a template yourself. Another common reason for making a mold for decorative stone with your own hands is the lack of the necessary type of facing material on sale.
As a rule, ordinary samples of decorative tiles are used as the basis for the matrix. Sometimes the texture of a template is created using natural materials, which include not only natural stones. For example, patterns made to imitate wood patterns are very popular.
There are two types of forms:
- homogeneous;
- complex.
In the first case, the manufacturing procedure is less complicated. This is due to the fact that homogeneous matrices are smaller in size and do not require significant consumption of silicone material. In turn, complex molds make it possible to produce several finished tiles at once, which significantly speeds up the process. It is these matrices that are recommended to be used for making artificial stone for the wall.
Be that as it may, for the formwork you will need a wooden box, which you can make yourself. Sometimes cardboard boxes are used for these purposes. When selecting or making formwork, you need to remember one important rule: the template needs to be designed a little larger than the original stone sample, both in width (10-15 mm) and in height (25-30 mm). This will allow you to achieve the necessary clearance between the products.
To complete the form itself, you will need suitable material. To do this, you can use silicone sealant or polyurethane. There are also special sealants that consist of two ingredients and are sold ready-made.
How to make artificial stone: silicone mold
Silicone sealing compounds can be easily purchased at the construction market or in a specialized store. As a rule, this mixture is sold in tubes or buckets. After making the formwork, you need to take care of lubricating its walls. For this purpose, you can use regular grease.
Next, you need to take the original sample, according to which the template will be made, and place it at the bottom of the formwork. As mentioned above, you can use ordinary tiles, stone or wood. Then grease is also applied to this sample. The fatty substance will allow you to easily separate the matrix from the product and will not spoil the mold pattern.
Pay attention! If a gypsum element is used as a sample for the stencil, then ordinary lubricant is not enough. Before laying it in formwork, it is recommended to cover it with at least two layers of varnish. It is recommended to start making the matrix only after the varnish has completely hardened.
At the next stage, a soap solution is prepared. It is needed to lubricate the tools (brushes and spatula) that will be used to distribute the silicone.
Silicone sealant should be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the facing sample. During the formation of a matrix from this material, it is necessary to ensure that no air pockets are formed.
After filling the formwork with silicone, you can begin to level its surface. For this purpose, a second tool is used - a spatula. Then the mold for making decorative stone is left for some time. This will allow the sealant to harden in the formwork and acquire the desired shape of the sample.
It is worth noting that the longer the matrix is formed, the better quality it will be. Its service life will also depend on this. The approximate hardening rate of silicone is 2 mm per day. Thus, taking into account the thickness of the form, you can easily calculate the time for which you need to leave the stencil. After the matrix is ready, it should be separated from the formwork and the artificial stone sample.
Even a pre-greased mold is quite difficult to detach from the rest of the elements, so it is recommended to slightly trim the contact points. If, after removing the matrix, shells remain on its surface, then this problem can be solved with the help of an additional silicone compound. This is how a template is made for making artificial stone. Photos of finished stencils will help you in making them.
How to make artificial decorative stone from gypsum
To obtain finished decorative products, you first need to understand how to make plaster at home. Before mixing such material, it is advisable to immediately determine its volume. This is due to the fact that gypsum dough has a high hardening rate. Therefore, its quantity must correspond to the number of forms. Let's look at what components are used to produce the gypsum mixture:
- gypsum;
- water;
- sand;
- pigment.
Coloring powder is not used in all cases, but only when it is necessary to obtain decorative stones for a wall of a certain color. The process of mixing the composition itself is not complicated.
First you need to pour water into a pre-prepared tank. Next, you can start adding gypsum powder. The proportions may vary, but it is recommended that the amount of water is approximately 0.6 of the volume of the main component. Sand allows you to increase the strength of the future finishing material, so it is recommended to use it in any case. It should be no more than 10% of the total mass of the mixture.
Useful information! It is recommended to use gypsum and acrylic products as facing stones for interior decoration. In turn, for external work it is best to make concrete elements.
The amount of pigment may vary (from 2 to 6%). It is selected depending on what color you need to get the decorative tiles. It is recommended to test mix a small amount of gypsum in advance to determine the shade.
To lubricate the mold, as a rule, a substance is used that is made from turpentine and wax. The first component must occupy at least 70% of the volume, and the second - the remaining 30%.
After adding the last component to the mixture, it is distributed into molds and leveled with a spatula. The technology for producing artificial stone may include one more stage - vibration processing. Thanks to this, the performance characteristics of future tiles are significantly increased. It is advisable to carry out such processing immediately after placing the mixture in the matrix.
Then you need to wait 15 minutes and remove the formed brick from the stencil. The final step will be to dry it in the open air. It is strictly not recommended to heat treat such products, since gypsum is not resistant to high temperatures.
How to make a decorative stone with your own handsmade of concrete
For the manufacture of concrete finishing products, molds made of polyurethane or plastic are most often used. Let's look at what this type of artificial stone is made from:
- cement;
- sand;
- water;
- polymer resin;
- pigment.
The proportions for making artificial stone at home from concrete may be different. First you need to mix the above components. The proportions of cement and sand in this case are 1:3. At the next stage, you need to add water in such an amount that the consistency of the mixture reaches the state of thick sour cream. To give the cement mortar the necessary color, a small amount of pigment is used (2.5% of the total mass of the composition).
Now the resulting composition is distributed over stencils. At this stage it is very important not to make mistakes. The solution should fill the mold no more than halfway so that there is enough space for the reinforcing component. Often, to enhance the strength properties of decorative tiles, a metal mesh is placed on top of the cement. Then it needs to be filled with the remaining amount of solution.
Then it is necessary to compress the composition in molds through vibration. After vibration compaction, you need to wait at least 24 hours for the solution in the stencils to harden to the required state.
How to make artificial stone with your own handsacrylic
To make acrylic decorative products, you will need an appropriate resin and a special hardener. Let's consider what other tools and materials will be needed when making artificial stone from these materials:
- electric drill (for mixing the components into a homogeneous mixture);
- copolymer powder;
- ready-made or homemade lubricant.
Pay attention! Using an acrylic base also allows you to make artificial marble with your own hands. Thanks to the combination of polyester resin with mineral chips and coloring compounds, you can get very beautiful elements for wall decoration.
First of all, to make decorative acrylic stone, you will need to mix a polymer resin with a hardener. The proportion of these components in this case is 5:1. It is important to remember that after obtaining a mixture of these ingredients, its amount should correspond to 25% of the total volume of the compound.
Next, you need to add filler and coloring pigment to the acrylic mixture, which will take up the remaining 75% of the weight. Any mineral chips (for example, granite) can be used as the first one. The texture of the future facing material depends on its size. The color of the acrylic binder will be given by a pre-selected pigment. The amount of dye in this case is 2-6% of the total volume of the mixture.
To make decorative bricks with your own hands, you will need to fill the matrices with acrylic solution and wait approximately 24 hours. After this time, you can safely remove the finished tiles.
DIY liquid stone: gelcoat manufacturing technology
Of course, cast artificial stones have better physical properties, but liquid ones have one advantage. Thanks to gelcoat, it becomes possible to produce products that are complex in terms of shape. This material can be done independently at home.
The components required to make such a facing material are quite expensive. Today there are two simple technologies for manufacturing artificial stone of this type:
- creation of personnel;
- mixing the primer solution.
These methods differ from each other not only in composition, but also in the percentage of filler. For the primer mixture you will need to take 20% gelcoat (of the total mass of the solution). It is necessary to add one more ingredient - microcalcite, the share of which is 73%. Then 7% accelerator and 1% hardening agent are added to the above components.
In turn, you will have to spend exactly 2 times more gelcoat on the front composition, namely 40%. The proportion of accelerator and hardener in this case is also 7 and 1%. The mineral filler and coloring matter occupy the remaining mass of the solution. Hardening of liquid decorative stone occurs in 1 day.
Features of painting decorative stone
Today, there are two common methods that allow you to change the color of a homemade decorative stone. Adding special dyes is the most common method. Another option is to apply paint to the finished finishing material. Some people perform this procedure after laying cladding products.
If everything is clear with the first method, then it is recommended to pay attention to the second. To paint finished stones for wall decoration, special iron oxide compounds are used. Their price fully corresponds to the quality, which is quite acceptable.
Useful information! Experts recommend applying iron oxide paints using a special pneumatic spray gun. If you don't have one, you can use a regular brush, but this will complicate the work.
There are several rules that should be followed when performing this procedure. For example, the color of artificial decorative stone should be lighter than the seams. It is strictly not recommended to use more than 3 shades for painting.
ABOUTdecorating walls with decorative bricks: preparatory stage
Before you begin laying decorative stone, you must first prepare the wall surface. It must not only be strong, but also smooth, so that there are no problems with gluing the facing products. The permissible deviation in this case is 1 mm per 1 m of wall. Craftsmen advise adhering to this rule regardless of the type of finishing material.
Before you start decorating the walls with decorative bricks, you need to remove all old facing materials from them. These include the following: wallpaper, paint and plaster. To remove them, you can use a regular spatula. This tool is especially helpful when removing old wallpaper and paint.
Let's look at what tools and materials are needed to lay decorative bricks:
- glue;
- a reservoir in which the adhesive solution will be located;
- spatula for applying glue to the wall;
- crosses for seams;
- building level;
- grout mixture;
- hydrophobic composition and a tool for applying it (for example, a roller).
After purchasing all necessary tools and materials, the walls should be plastered. It is important to remember that in this case it may be necessary to install a reinforcing mesh, which will strengthen the base for the decorative tiles. However, such a measure is necessary only when the weight of the artificial stone is too large. To lay thin decorative tiles under stone, there is no need for reinforcement. But in any case, you will have to eliminate wall defects.
You will need to apply a primer to the wall surface. This will strengthen the surface and enhance the adhesion effect of the facing tiles to it. Experts advise choosing a special primer for plaster.
Preparing the glue and applying the sketch to the wall
This type of stone requires the use of a special adhesive composition. To prepare such a building mixture, you will need to use ready-made powder and mix it in a certain amount of water. As a rule, it comes with glue detailed instructions, containing not only the proportions of the components, but also the time required for its manufacture. In turn, laying decorative stone for exterior decoration is best done on cement mortar.
To install decorative non-natural stone, you can also use liquid nails. This mixture is able to provide the necessary adhesion to the wall. Some craftsmen even use cement mortar for indoor work. However, before applying it to the wall, PVA glue is first added to it.
Before you start laying decorative tiles with your own hands, you need to sketch a sketch on paper. It must take into account the area of the part of the wall allocated for brick, as well as the following nuances: the presence or absence of a seam and the number of artificial stones. The best option is to transfer the sketch directly to the wall. Thus, the possibility of errors when laying this facing material is practically eliminated.
How to glue decorative stone: instructions
Laying such facing material is not particularly difficult, but requires appropriate care and precision. First of all, thick glue is applied to the wall. Its quantity should correspond to the width of the first row. After applying the adhesive, you must begin laying the stone. To do this, each element is first applied to the wall, and then pressed down. The excess solution released after pressing on the brick is simply removed from the wall.
Useful information! If laying stone for a house is done end-to-end, then each subsequent element must be leaned tightly against the previous one. To organize the necessary seam, there are special delimiting elements - crosses. If you need to organize a larger distance between the facing products, then you can use plasterboard.
The best starting point is the corner of the room. It is necessary to lay the tiles gradually, one row at a time. It is important to remember that it is better to glue the tiles from the top, moving downwards. This will prevent the adhesive mixture from getting on already laid elements. To cut whole stones, as a rule, a regular grinder is used.
Some varieties of this decorative material are best glued to the wall with an offset. This simple step will allow you to achieve a more realistic result when finishing with artificial stone. Photos of various stylistic solutions will help you decide on the choice of color and texture.
After laying this finishing material, you must wait a few days. During this time, the solution will completely harden and it will be possible to remove the auxiliary elements. It is also advisable to prepare a solution for grouting in advance. It is made from cement adhesive mastic and pigment substance. It is applied in two ways: using a special gun or using a sponge.
On last stage It is necessary to wipe the tiles to remove any particles of mortar that got on them during installation. You can apply a hydrophobic composition to such a stone. Its use is recommended in cases where artificial material is installed in rooms with high humidity. After application, it forms a durable film on the surface of the cladding.
The technology is very similar to the process of laying natural stone for interior decoration. However, there are also differences, since the structure and weight of the artificial material still differ from those of natural products.
Caring for decorative elements of this type is not difficult. All that is needed to remove dust and other contaminants is to wipe the tiles with a damp sponge.
Thus, artificial decorative stone can be purchased on the construction market or made independently. The process of its formation is not complicated. But if you are not confident in your own abilities, then it is better to buy ready-made material.
Artificial stone has been known since time immemorial: ordinary brick and hardened lime mortar are also artificial stones. But only in our days has artificial stone been recognized as the No. 1 material for interior decoration and amateur landscape design. The reason is that using modern materials and technologies, you can make quite a decent artificial stone with your own hands. At least some of its varieties, because There are many types of artificial stone.
Why?
Natural stone is an expensive and, oddly enough, capricious material. Take a look at the picture. A traditional Japanese Tobiishi garden and an equally traditional European rock garden are more expensive than the villa shown on the left. For tobiishi, the blocks must be selected in accordance with the sacred requirements of Zen, and the slate slabs for the rock garden must be selected according to the design conditions. And the stone is suitable only from certain deposits, based on the requirements of strength and durability. And you need to bring it in such a way that it doesn’t turn into rubble along the way.
Sawn or chipped finishing stone is cheaper, although still very expensive. And it’s expensive to work on it: not tiles, each one needs to be tried on and selected according to the location. And it heavily loads the wall or ceiling - it’s heavy. You can’t prick or saw through thin layers – it will crack and is fragile.
In terms of mechanical properties and durability, artificial stone can surpass wild natural stone and is certainly not inferior to it even when made at home. In addition, it has important advantages:
- It can be made in thin tiles, which reduces the weight of the object several times without losing strength.
- If the colors and textures of the surface are rich or unique, it can be made of a standard shape and size in plan or shaped exactly in place.
- Can be manufactured at the site of use, which eliminates transportation waste.
- Can be produced immediately smooth to a shine, eliminating the cost of sawing, grinding and polishing.
- It can be made of irregular shape, completely imitating rubble stone, but of a predetermined size and configuration.
Additionally: imitation of stone using polymer binders (see below) produces thermoplastic products, which, after manufacturing, can be bent, molded, and connected to each other without seams.
What is he good for?
There are countless types of artificial stone products. It is used to line walls, internal and external, and is used to make decorative elements for interiors and furniture, kitchen sinks, window sills, countertops and entire furniture, see fig. In the latter case, the thermoplasticity of polymer artificial stone is used.
In addition, you can make figurines, trinkets, and souvenirs from it at home. There are technologies that allow you to get the effects of tiger, cat and snake eyes. There are craftsmen who make netsuke from artificial stone, which Japanese experts do not immediately distinguish from real ones. But all this already relates to the field of jewelry craftsmanship, but you can get the hang of making an artificial decorative stone with your own hands that is unusually similar to labradorite, pink eagle or serpentinite. It seems that charoite with malachite of Danila the 21st century master has not yet been reached, but, keeping in mind the capabilities of the material, this is a profitable endeavor.
Types of decorative artificial stone
According to the source materials and manufacturing methods, artificial stone is divided into the following types:
- Ceramic – during the manufacturing process, firing takes place at a certain temperature. Production requires large areas, trained personnel and significant energy consumption.
- Gypsum molded (cast) – production is possible at home at minimal cost, but is only suitable for interior decoration, because not frost-resistant. The minimum temperature in the production room is +18 degrees Celsius.
- Concrete (cement-sand) molded , left in Fig. – the cost price is slightly higher than gypsum, because The mold resource for concrete is less, but is also suitable for production at home or in a small utility room. Frost-resistant, production is possible at +12 Celsius and above.
- Freeform reinforced concrete (monumental) – manufactured individually, most often at the place of use. The free-forming method is used to make artificial boulders, cobblestones, and natural-looking slabs.
- Polyester with hot-curing mineral filler (in the center in the figure) - in decorative and mechanical qualities it can surpass natural analogues, but the compound hardens when elevated temperature in a vacuum, therefore unsuitable for home or small-scale production.
- Cold Cure Cast Acrylic - suitable for home production under the same conditions as gypsum. If hardening is carried out on a vibration stand (see below), the totality of its qualities is close to that of a hot-cured stone. Thermoplastic at 175-210 degrees, allows additional molding after casting without loss of quality of the finished product.
- Liquid artificial stone prepared on a gel acrylic binder - gel coat (gel coat, gel coating). The mechanical properties are somewhat inferior to cast ones, because A smaller proportion of mineral filler can be introduced into the gel, but at home, spatial products of complex configurations can be formed using gelcoat.
About acrylic stone
The main advantages of acrylic stone are the complete absence of pores and chemical resistance. In everyday life, this provides excellent sanitation and hygiene: the moisture absorption of acrylic stone is about 0.02% by weight; for comparison, for granite - 0.33% and for marble - 0.55%. Acrylic stone can be washed with any household detergent.
The second, already decorative advantage is the combination of viscosity with strength, which is more typical for plastics than for mineral materials, which makes it possible to make stone wallpaper. Industrially produced acrylic stone slabs have a thickness of 6, 9 and 12 mm, but this is due to its subsequent transportation. For on-site use, acrylic stone can be made in sheets 3-4 mm thick. Of course, such sheets require very careful handling, but if a suitable shape is available, they can be made to the full height of the wall.
And finally, decorative artificial stone with an acrylic binder has low thermal conductivity combined with high heat capacity. This gives a feeling of living warmth when touched, to the point that you can sit naked in an unheated empty bathtub made of liquid stone without experiencing discomfort.
About quartz artificial stone
Among the hot-curing liquid stone, quartz artificial stone stands out (on the right in the figure with stone samples) - ground vein quartz (filler) with a binder made of polyester resin PMMM (polymethyl methacrylate). Its thermal strength is limited to 140 degrees, but in mechanical properties and durability it surpasses the best of natural stones. Let's give some data for comparison; The values for rapakivi granite and marble are indicated in parentheses separated by a fraction:
- Impact resistance DIN, cm – 135 (63/29).
- Bending strength, kg/sq.cm – 515 (134/60).
- Compressive strength, kg/sq.cm – 2200 (1930/2161).
- The same, after 25 cycles of “thermal swing” from –50 to +50 Celsius – 2082 (1912/2082).
Note: Rapakivi granite or ocular granite is a particularly high-quality variety from deposits in Fennoscandia. Rapakivi lined some metro stations in St. Petersburg.
Equipment and materials
To produce cast artificial stone, in addition to free-form stones (liquid and monumental), specific materials and equipment are required:
- Vibration stand.
- Models for making casting molds (if ready-made molds are not used).
- Release compound - it is used to cover both the model during the production of the mold and the mold before casting the product so that it does not stick to each other.
- Foundry molds.
- Foundry mixtures - compounds.
- Pigments.
- Sand tray-cushion for homemade silicone molds.
- Thermal gun – for final molding and welding of parts made of acrylic stone.
Note: Products made from liquid stone cannot be subjected to vibration treatment during curing, even if they are placed on a vibration stand - they will creep apart.
Vibration stand
The vibration stand is the heart of the entire decorative stone manufacturing process and the key to the quality of the final product. Its design, which ensures hardening with proper homogeneity (uniformity) of the mixture, is shown in the figure. It’s easy to make such a stand yourself. Main principle– vibrations of the stand platform should occur predominantly in the horizontal plane. Subject to vibration treatment it is possible self-production artificial stone comparable in quality to industrial stone.
Note: advice to carry out vibration curing by shaking, moving or twitching the mold manually comes from people who have no idea about the physico-chemistry of hardening compounds for artificial stone.
Any low-power electric motors are used as vibrators; their total power is 30-50 W per 1 sq. m of stand platform area. It is advisable to place at least two motors in the corners of the platform, and preferably 4. If one is used, then it is better to place it in the center of the platform, and place pallets with forms on the sides. The motors are powered through a rheostat or thyristor regulator; this is necessary to adjust the vibration strength, see below.
Eccentrics are mounted on the motor shafts. It is not necessary to make turned ones; U-shaped bent pieces of rod or strips fastened with screws are quite suitable. Motor rotation speed is 600-3000 rpm. A lower speed will cause the mixture to stratify, and a higher speed will not provide the required vibration force. The vibrators are tightly, without any gaskets, attracted to the platform with steel bands and screws or self-tapping screws.
The platform is made of dense layered material 8-20 mm thick: good plywood, fiberglass, getinax. Its layering is important: mechanical vibrations in the platform should propagate more or less freely in the horizontal direction and quickly decay vertically. The tray with forms is secured to the platform with brackets using screws or self-tapping screws.
The springs must be identical and sufficiently rigid: under the weight of the platform when fully loaded, they must be compressed by no more than 1/5 of their length. In addition, the springs must be wide so that they do not noticeably bend in the vertical plane under the weight of a fully loaded platform.
The mechanical characteristic of springs is linear, i.e. they must be cylindrical from wire of uniform cross-section. Any progressive springs, in particular furniture springs, are unsuitable. The spring installation step is 300-600 mm along the length and width of the platform, i.e. for a 1x1 m platform you will need 9 springs. In the platform and chassis (base) of the stand, holes or ring grooves must be selected for the ends of the springs, otherwise the platform will slip.
It is better to make the stand chassis wooden, in order to absorb the same overtones; metal can ring. It is installed on a support (table) using adjusting screws - the horizontal position of the platform must be maintained accurately.
Stand adjustment
To adjust, the stand with the vibrators turned off is fully loaded: a pallet with filled forms is placed on it and secured. In order not to waste the working mixture, the models according to which they were made are placed in weight molds.
Then use a bubble level to check and use the chassis adjusting screws to set the platform horizontally. After this, place an ordinary earthenware saucer with a bearing ball with a diameter of 5-6 mm directly on the molds, turn the vibrator regulator to minimum and turn them on.
Smoothly adding power, make sure that the ball begins to bounce on the saucer, and then carefully reduce it until it again begins to simply run around the saucer and occasionally tinkle. This completes the stand adjustment.
Notes:
- When switching to another type of product, the stand must be adjusted again, both horizontally and in terms of vibration strength.
- The orientation of the eccentrics on the motor shafts does not matter much; vibrators only introduce the platform-springs-damper system into resonance. To make adjustments easier, you can turn on the vibrators at full power with an empty platform, turn them off, notice in what position the eccentrics have stopped, and rearrange them uniformly, but this is for those who like to tinker with little things.
Video: making decorative stone from cement using a vibration stand
Models
As models for casting molds, ready-made industrially produced decorative stones or suitable natural stones are usually used. In both cases, the range of sizes, shapes and reliefs of the final product is limited. Meanwhile, almost everywhere, literally under your feet, there is an excellent material for making your own unique models: simple gully clay. No permission is required for its use in moderation; gully clay is not considered a mineral because Not suitable for pottery or construction. But for models it is quite suitable.
Analyzes for fat content, adhesion, organic impurities, etc. It’s also not necessary, just kneaded and molded. For three-dimensional models, the clay is mixed thickly until it has the consistency of plasticine. To prevent the model from cracking during drying, it is sculpted on a block from waste wood, polystyrene foam, packaging cardboard, pieces plastic bottles etc. The blockhead is filled with plasticine to such an extent that the clay layer is no thicker than 6-12 mm.
To make models of facing tiles of a certain size, a grid is made from strips of thin, smooth plastic. It is undesirable to use metal: it can rust or get caught by a burr. What height should the grille be? There are two possible cases:
- 6-12 mm for gypsum and concrete stone and from 3 mm for acrylic - for liquid clay without modeling.
- 20-40 mm for thick clay with stucco.
In both cases, a flat shield is covered with plastic film, a grate is placed on it and its cells are filled with clay. The shield must be placed in advance in a place protected from direct sunlight, otherwise the models will crack when drying. A lump of clay mortar is “slapped” next to the grate to control drying.
Clay is poured into a low grate to the top and left to dry as is. Once dry, each tile itself will acquire a natural, unique relief. Thick clay is placed in a high lattice in a layer of thickness under the final material (see above) and the desired relief is formed manually. You can make inscriptions, bas-reliefs, hieroglyphs, magic signs, etc.
Dry the models under a canopy in the shade in a light draft. Drying takes 2-5 days depending on the weather. It can be accelerated by hanging a 100-200 W infrared lamp or an electric fireplace (not an oil convection one!) at least 2 m above the models, connected through a powerful diode so that it works at half power. The drying is monitored by a control lump: if its underside is dry and does not wrinkle under your fingers, you can make molds.
Forms
Forms for artificial stone are mainly used in the following types:
- Disposable clay models on a lost wax model - for sculpting and artistic casting.
- Industrially produced polyurethane (in the figure on the left) - for small-scale production; cost money, but are durable.
- Homemade silicone (on the right in the figure) - for home crafts or piece production. Resource – up to several dozen castings.
To make a silicone mold, a model, or a set of models for tiles, is laid out on a flat, stable surface covered with polyethylene and surrounded by a side 10-20 mm above the tops of the models. The models and the inside of the side are lubricated with grease: grease, tsiatim, shahtol. The shield with the molds is set horizontally so that the upper surface of the silicone (which will then be the bottom of the mold) is also horizontal.
You need acidic silicone, the cheap kind that smells like vinegar. Silicone from the tube is squeezed onto the model in a spiral from the center to the edges and to the side until the cell is filled. To avoid bubbles, the silicone is dispersed with a flute brush, each time dipping it into a foamy solution of any liquid dishwashing detergent. Soap solution is not suitable, it has an alkaline reaction, which can ruin the acidic silicone. After filling the cell with the model, smooth the silicone surface with a spatula, also wetting it in detergent.
Dry the form in the same way as clay, but without infrared illumination, otherwise bubbles will appear. But ventilation significantly speeds up drying. The drying rate of silicone is about 2 mm/day. To control drying, you can place a ring (a piece of pipe) next to the molds and fill it with silicone. It needs to be dried until completely dry.
Video: homemade molds for artificial stone
Foundry mixtures
Gypsum stone
The mixture for gypsum stone is prepared in small portions for one or several products; its survivability is up to 10 minutes. It is advisable to pour the mixture into the mold within 3-4 minutes from the start of kneading. Compound:
- Gypsum;
- Citric acid – 0.3% by weight of gypsum, to slow down hardening;
- Water – 0.8-0.9 by volume of gypsum for the starting layer and 0.6 by volume of gypsum for the main mass;
- Pigment – 2-6% by weight of gypsum, depending on the color, selected on test samples.
concrete stone
The base is a cement-sand mortar, but the ratio of the components is the opposite of the construction one: 3 parts cement to 1 part sand. The proportion of pigment is the same as for gypsum. Polymer additives are acceptable. Read more about making concrete.
Cast acrylic stone
Acrylic stone is made on the basis of acrylic resin with a hardener. The permissible proportion of mineral filler, including pigment, is 3:1 based on the finished mixture; the share of pigment (the same 2-6%) is calculated by weight of the filler.
For example, according to the instructions, the resin and hardener should be mixed 5:1; this will give 25% of the compound's weight. 75% remains for the pigment filler. Let’s say that according to the test results, 4% of pigment is required. Then the final composition will be as follows: resin – 20%; hardener – 5%; filler – 71% and pigment – 4%.
That is, we calculate the composition of the compound from the binder - resin with a hardener. Reducing the filler proportion improves the thermoplasticity of the product and its elasticity, but reduces the mechanical strength. Stone chips, gravel, screenings are used as filler. The filler should be washed with dishwashing detergent, calcined and rinsed again with clean water.
First, the pigment is introduced into the filler, then the resin is mixed with the hardener, the filler with the pigment is added and mixed. The viability of the mixture from the introduction of the hardener into the resin is 15-20 minutes; setting time – 30-40 minutes; Ready to use time: 24 hours.
Liquid stone
Materials for liquid stone are quite expensive, so two compositions are used: front and primer. They differ in composition and percentage of filler. Primer composition, in order of component introduction:
- Gelcoat – 20%.
- Microcalcite – 73%.
- Hardener – 1%.
- Accelerator – 6%.
The front composition uses 40% gelcoat, a hardener with an accelerator as for primer; the rest is filler with pigment. The pot life, setting and readiness times are the same as for acrylic stone.
Pigments
Pigments for artificial stone are used in dry powder, paste and liquid, mineral and synthetic. Pigment powder is introduced into dry filler or plaster; liquid pigment is added to the mix. Using pigment paste, you can achieve a spotted or striped color of the stone. To do this, it is injected into the knead with a syringe just before the end of kneading.
Separators
Release agents for different types Various artificial stones are used:
- For gypsum - a solution of wax in turpentine 1:7. Wax shavings are added in small portions while stirring to turpentine, heated in a water bath to 50-60 degrees.
- For concrete - grease, as for clay molds.
- For cast acrylic – a solution of stearin in styrene 1:10; as a last resort - high-quality grease (cyatim, fiol).
- For liquid stone - stearin in styrene in the specified proportion.
sand cushion
The volumetric silicone mold can burst due to vibration and heating of the hardening gypsum or acrylic compound, so before casting it is deepened into clean, dry fine sand, poured onto a pallet, 2/3 or 3/4 full. The horizontalness of the mold's mouth is checked with a level.
Thermal gun
A heat gun is something like a miniature hair dryer that produces a thin, strong stream of hot air. In addition to welding finished parts from acrylic stone, it is convenient to assemble plastic frames when making silicone molds.
Casting
The complete technology of casting liquid stone involves the starting and basic stages. Accordingly, for the sake of economy and quality, they prepare the starting (front) and base mixture. If small flat forms without relief on the surface are filled, then facial mixtures are used immediately.
The starting mixture is liquid, well-fitting to the surface of the mold, with decorative filler and pigment. It is applied to the mold with a brush. Gypsum and cement with sand to start are diluted liquidly; in the acrylic mixture, reduce the proportion of filler with pigment to 60-50%, correspondingly increasing the proportion of resin with hardener.
The base composition is added to the mold after the starter has set. The filler for acrylic is microcalcite without pigment; it will provide a good background against which the decorative advantages of the facial filler will appear. The base gypsum is mixed until it becomes thick and creamy.
When pouring concrete, the basic pouring is done in two steps: after filling the mold halfway, apply a plastic reinforcing mesh that does not reach the edge of the mold, then top it up to the edge. The base fill is smoothed flush with the edge of the mold with a spatula. When pouring acrylic, the spatula must be clean, grease-free, and made of polished metal.
At the beginning of setting, grooves are drawn along the surface of the casting (which will be the underside of the product) for better adhesion to the binder at . During all casting operations, the vibration stand is turned off. To increase durability, cast gypsum stone after removal from the mold is treated with vegetable oil heated in a water bath.
Video: simple production of artificial stone - from mixture to finished material
Part 1
Part 2
Molding of liquid stone
Products made from liquid stone are made by spraying or enveloping, direct or reverse. When applying directly, a base made of wood, fibreboard, chipboard, MDF is first covered with primer with a layer of 3-4 mm, and then a decorative layer is applied. This is simple, but the surface of the product is rough due to protruding filler granules, which requires labor-intensive grinding and polishing.
The reverse method is more technologically advanced: with a bowl for washing, it can be made independently in 2-4 hours, and if ready-made matrices are available, mass production is possible. In the reverse method, the matrix opposite to the product is covered with a separator, a compound is applied, a wood base board is applied and pressed down with weights. If the inner surface of the matrix is mirror-smooth, then the tabletop will be the same without additional processing.
Monumental molding
Boulders, blocks, and flagstone are formed from a concrete composition on a block covered with pieces of thin flexible reinforcing mesh with wire clips. First, prepare a very dry solution without pigment, with a minimum amount of water. They cover the blockhead with cakes of it so that their edges touch. After the base has set, but while it is still wet, prepare a working solution of normal consistency with pigment, and use it to bring the product into shape. Cover from rain with a film canopy for the period of complete hardening (40 days).
Stonehenge in the garden
Landscape artificial stone must have an ancient appearance; for this, it is aged a day or two after setting:
- Rub the entire, sunnier side with ocher mixed with gas soot; Carbon black as a pigment is commercially available. This will create the appearance of weathering crust.
The construction market offers a variety of products made using latest technologies. It contains interesting combinations of materials that produce striking visual results.
In this article we will talk about such a finishing material as decorative gypsum stone and its use for interior and exterior decoration.
Gypsum facing stone and its properties
Even in ancient times, craftsmen from India, China, and Egypt used gypsum for exterior and interior decoration. Plaster was used to cover walls, floors and ceilings in various rooms.
Such widespread use is explained by its uniqueness: the mineral stone had the ability to regulate the microclimate of rooms due to good air conductivity.
Currently, facing decorative artificial stone is a composite material, which includes high-strength gypsum. Due to its qualities, it received the name “gypsum polymer stone”. Properties of decorative gypsum stone:
- low specific gravity;
- material strength;
- environmental friendliness;
- ease of processing;
- high level of sound and heat insulation;
- maintains the required level of humidity;
- fire resistance.
Thanks to its interesting texture and aesthetic appearance, decorative stone is suitable for the interior of any room.
The stone is used to cover the internal and external surfaces of walls, both in children's rooms. It looks great when finished with design elements and is absolutely safe.
The fine dispersion of gypsum and the ease of its processing make it possible to create a variety of architectural forms consisting of interesting elements. The low specific gravity facilitates the use of decorative stone even in the cladding of thin partitions between rooms.
Walls lined with artificial gypsum stone are easy to clean and practically do not become dirty. The only drawback of this material is its hygroscopicity.
Making artificial stone from gypsum with your own hands
As a rule, professional production of artificial stone from gypsum occurs in a factory. However, it is quite possible to make it yourself.
Some craftsmen have turned the interesting and exciting activity of making decorative stone into a quite profitable business. Moreover, without large investments and with minimal effort, its production pays off in a short time.
If certain rules are followed and high-quality raw materials are used, such activities are promising and quite profitable.
The use of natural gypsum in its pure form is not advisable, since the products have low strength and are short-lived. Modern technologies offer the production of compositions from modified gypsum that have high strength and retain the qualities of the natural material.
Technology for manufacturing decorative artificial stone from gypsum
Not everyone can afford natural stone cladding, as it has a high cost. Therefore, it is more rational to use artificial stone made of gypsum or cement, which contains various color pigments, as well as polymer materials.
Required material and tools
- Plaster is white;
- A container, preferably made of plastic, for mixing components;
- Pallet;
- Table and polyethylene roll;
- Forms (matrices);
- Electric drill;
- Fluted glass;
- Any water-based dyes.
Preparation of the workplace
To produce stone, large working areas are not required. Two square meters is enough.
We will provide in advance workplace table There should be racks with shelves at hand where all the necessary elements and equipment will be placed.
Preparing forms
Attention should be paid to the forms themselves (matrices). The most optimal are silicone molds. They are quite flexible and plastic. But forms made of metal, wood, and plastic are also acceptable, although they do not so thoroughly convey the texture of plaster, which reflects the smallest details of the relief and its bends.
Preparation of materials
After preparing the workplace and equipment, we prepare the material. For the gypsum test we need mineral gypsum, anhydride, and clean water. This will form the basis of the plaster test. Sand or similar filler is also prepared.
The process of making stone from gypsum
Preparing gypsum dough
In order to save money, the volume of the solution should correspond to the number of forms.
Since gypsum dough hardens very quickly, you cannot leave the mixed solution for the next time.
We independently determine the proportion of gypsum and water. After pouring water into the container, gradually add gypsum and stir continuously until the gypsum dough reaches normal thickness.
The consistency of the solution should be thick, since segments made from a liquid solution are less durable and take a long time to dry. To make the material stronger, add about 10% sand.
Processing forms (matrices)
We lubricate the working surface of the molds with a surfactant (a mixture of wax and turpentine 3:7), this is done so that the finished (frozen) stone can then be easily removed.
This mixture can be made using a water bath, which promotes uniform and complete dissolution of the wax. The mixture is applied in a thin layer to the inner surface of the mold.
Next, to protect the stone from the formation of shells, we apply liquid gypsum to the working surface of the molds.
Place the prepared forms in a tray.
Creating Color
Mix the desired dyes with plaster. We use separate containers for this.
We pour the resulting shades into molds. As a result, we get a rather heterogeneous color.
Pouring plaster
After this, we pour the bulk of the gypsum.
Using a spatula, carefully level the plaster. We cover the molds with pre-prepared corrugated glass, and then subject it to vibration for even laying. This procedure will take approximately 2 minutes. 
The hardening time of the gypsum is approximately 15-20 minutes. When the glass freely separates from the molds, remove the products and dry them in the open air. How to lay decorative gypsum stone
When fixing such gypsum tiles to the base (for example, a wall), the contacting surfaces are primed.
After this, glue the gypsum stone. Suitable glues include mastic, assembly glue, water-acrylic glue, a mixture of gypsum and PVA, sealant, and cement-adhesive mortar.
You can change the geometric parameters of such a workpiece using an ordinary hacksaw. One of the articles has already discussed the process of how it is performed, which, in fact, you can familiarize yourself with.
In fact, making decorative stone from gypsum is not difficult. Of course, “the first pancake is lumpy” cannot be ruled out, but nevertheless, the result is worth it.
A rich imagination and flight of fancy will help you find original color solutions and textures (you can even make artificial marble from gypsum). Thanks to this decoration, your home will be filled with a unique flavor, and elements decorated with its help will add extraordinary comfort and beauty to the interior.
Making artificial stone from gypsum - video
Decorative stone made of gypsum - photo in the interior
In terms of mechanical resistance, color range and variety of surface textures, artificial stone is in no way inferior to natural stone, surpassing it in ease of processing and ease of finishing.
Key advantages of artificial stone:
- unlike natural material, artificial stone can be made into thin tiles, which reduces the weight and cost of products while maintaining the necessary strength;
- even at home, such a stone can be produced in the desired shape for a specific application site without additional adjustment;
- artificial stones can be immediately made perfectly smooth without such expensive procedures as sawing, grinding and polishing;
- there is no need to transport the material, since it can be produced directly at the site of use.
Types of artificial stone
One of the main advantages of this material is the ability to produce it with a surface and texture that imitates any natural stone.
The shapes of artificial stones are:
- chipped - with an uneven surface and edges;
- sawn - with smooth, even edges;
- rubble, similar to ordinary boulders;
- arbitrary, embodying any fantasies of the master;
- decorative.
Depending on the purpose of use, artificial stone can be made from several types of materials. For interior decoration, plaster and acrylic are used. For exterior work, the most suitable material is cement, which is resistant to moisture and temperature changes.
In terms of cost, the most expensive is acrylic stone, followed by gypsum products, and the most economical material is cement. To make the stone more durable and save the main raw materials, sand, small crushed stone, marble chips or fiber are added to the pouring mixture, which prevents cracking of the finished products.
Improve physical characteristics plasticizers help the stone. These substances reduce the volume of water in the mixture and increase its density.
Depending on the source material and methods of its processing, the following types of artificial stone can be made at home:
- molded gypsum - due to low frost resistance, it is suitable only for interior work, and the temperature in the room during its production must be at least +18°C;
- concrete (cement-sand) molded - frost-resistant, during production the temperature in the room can be +12 ° C and higher;
- reinforced concrete of any shape - usually made piece by piece directly at the site of use (artificial boulders, cobblestones or slabs).
Molds for making stone
To produce artificial stone at home, you will need a mold and a casting mixture. You can either buy a ready-made form or make it yourself.
Ready-made matrices are made of polyurethane and silicone. They usually already come with plasticizers, pigments and fiberglass. Such forms are produced for the production of decorative material of various sizes and thicknesses with imitation of any natural or artificial stone - slate, brick, cobblestone, sandstone or rock.
The choice of shape depends on the area of the object and the available budget. Polyurethane matrices are expensive and are designed to produce several hundred high-quality impressions. The silicone mold is more budget-friendly, but with its help you can make no more than 20-30 products.
Making your own mold
First of all, you need formwork. This structure is best made from boards or plywood. The frame must be connected so that there is not a single gap left. The formwork should be 3 cm higher and 1 cm wider than the original stone sample.
Any lubricant, for example, grease, is generously applied to the bottom and walls of the frame. After this, a sample stone is placed in the formwork, which is also generously coated with lubricant. This procedure is necessary so that the finished form can easily move away from the original stone and frame.
At home, the mold is made from silicone sealant. In this case, you can use the cheapest silicone. Squeeze it inside the formwork in a spiral, starting from the center and moving towards the walls until it is filled.
To avoid bubbles, the silicone must be carefully smoothed with a wide paint brush. The brush is first dipped in a solution of dishwashing detergent. An ordinary soap solution will not work, since due to the alkaline environment it can change the properties of acidic silicone.
After filling the formwork with silicone, it is recommended to smooth the surface of the future form with a spatula soaked in the same detergent.
Dry the form at room temperature in a well-ventilated area. Drying time - 15 days. After this time has expired, the structure can be disassembled and a stone sample can be removed from it.
The output is convenient silicone molds, which are ideal for making artificial stone at home. If there are cracks or other irregularities on the surface of the mold, carefully fill them with silicone.
How to paint artificial stone
To give the stone the desired color, add a coloring pigment to the solution when mixing it. For these purposes, it is the pigment (iron oxide inorganic dye) that is needed, and not the color for paints.
The pigment colors can be mixed with each other to create the desired shade. The amount of pigment is determined in practice. It will be possible to find out what color the final product will be only after the stone has completely dried.
The dye can be applied directly to the silicone mold before pouring the mixture. It is better to paint over the form not entirely, but in fragments. This will give the casts an individual design and help create a better imitation of natural stone.
Creation of artificial stone from gypsum
Most often, artificial stones are made from gypsum at home. For this technology you will need the following materials:
- white plaster;
- river sand;
- warm water;
- large plastic container;
- pallet;
- ready-made form;
- corrugated glass;
- water-based dyes.
In addition, you need to prepare your workplace. To make artificial stone from gypsum, you do not need a large area. Just a few square meters will be enough. It is important that all the necessary racks and shelves are at hand.
Instructions:
- Prepare the required volume of solution equal to the number of molds. The gypsum hardens quickly, so it cannot be left until the next pouring procedure.
- Add water to a plastic container and pour plaster into it. The solution should be thick. To increase the density of the material, you can add sand to the mixture in a ratio of 1 to 10.
- Grease the bottom and sides of the mold with wax and turpentine. This measure will make it easier to remove the frozen stone from the mold.
- Pour the gypsum solution into the mold. Using a spatula, carefully level the surface of the future stone.
- For maximum uniform installation, it is recommended to cover the molds with long corrugated glass and subject the workpieces to light vibration for two minutes.
- The plaster hardens in about 20 minutes. After this, the glass can be removed and the casts can be removed from the molds. The resulting products are dried in the open air.
- When the stones are completely dry, they need to be painted. Don't forget to remove dust and other debris from the surface first. After this, use a brush to evenly distribute the dye over the surface of the stones.
Artificial stone made of cement
Artificial stones for external use are usually made from cement. This material is much cheaper than gypsum, but the strength of products made from it is an order of magnitude higher.
To make cement stones at home, you will need the following materials and tools:
- cement;
- warm water;
- spatula;
- container for mixing the solution;
- fine sifted sand;
- separation composition;
- ready-made forms;
- reinforcing mesh;
- coloring pigments and brushes.
Manufacturing technology:
- Mix cement and sand in a ratio of 3 to 1. Add to them the coloring pigment necessary to create the desired shade.
- Slowly pour water into the resulting mixture until the solution acquires the consistency of thick sour cream.
- Fill the molds halfway with the mixture, then shake them thoroughly to compact the cement.
- To increase the strength of future products, place a reinforcing mesh on top and fill the molds with mortar to the very top.
- After completing the filling procedure, draw several lines on top with a stack or nail to create shallow grooves. This measure will help improve the adhesion of future stones to the application surface.
- The stones are removed from the molds 12 hours after pouring and dried for two weeks. After removing the impressions, do not forget to thoroughly rinse the molds to remove cement residues.
If the coloring components were not added to the mixture before pouring it into the molds, the stones can be painted after they have completely dried. Before painting, be sure to clean the surface of the casts from dust and debris. Apply paint evenly to the surface of the stones, creating the desired pattern, and let the product dry.
Artificial decorative stone is a common building material that is characterized by high performance characteristics and versatility. It is used for cladding internal and external work surfaces. This material can be made independently at home. This article will tell you about the advantages, features of its production and installation.
Today, the range of stones for wall decoration is very wide. It can be easily purchased in construction stores and markets. If necessary, this finishing material can be made by hand. The industrial production of such bricks is very similar to manual production, since both cases involve the use of special injection molds.
Different materials are used for its manufacture. The most common ones are concrete, plaster and acrylic. For the subsequent processing of stone, various technologies can be used: firing, glazing, etc. Liquid decorative brick, which has the appearance of an unhardened composition, is very popular. You can also purchase or make your own flexible type of artificial stone.
For finishing external surfaces, it is customary to use special boards, which are characterized by low porosity and resistance to low temperatures. In turn, stone for interior wall decoration is lighter in weight, which facilitates its installation.
The environmental properties of this facing material depend on what components were used in its production. For example, cement and gypsum have natural properties, and their structure facilitates the penetration of air and moisture.
Useful information! If the decorative stone contains acrylic, it is not recommended to veneer surfaces located in close proximity to heating devices. This is due to the fact that when heated, this material releases harmful chemical compounds that can cause harm to human health.
Artificial stone from the manufacturer has an affordable price, which undoubtedly makes it more popular among consumers than natural stone. If you choose high-quality material or use the right components in its manufacture, it will not be inferior to natural cladding.
Advantages and disadvantages of artificial stone for interior wall decoration
Decorative stone price per sq. meter ranges from 600 to 1500 rubles. The cost of finished products from the manufacturer depends on many factors, namely: composition, texture, color, etc.
Using non-natural decorative stone for walls, obtained independently, allows you to save money, as well as perform the necessary pattern or continuous installation without any difficulties. This material also has other positive qualities that we recommend paying attention to.
First of all, you can make artificial stone yourself in the same place where it will be laid. This eliminates transportation costs. This facing material is characterized by its small thickness and light weight, as it most often takes the form of thin plates. Thanks to this, the overall weight of the structure is significantly reduced.
Laying methods. Features of working with various bases. How to make gypsum tiles with your own hands.
Acrylic. Manufactured by casting. It turns into a solid state without the use of high temperatures, therefore it is classified as a cold-curing decorative facing material. Has a presentable appearance. For clarity, it is recommended to study the photo of artificial stone for interior wall decoration, made on an acrylic base.
The process of forming acrylic stone implies the same conditions as for the gypsum type. It is characterized by temperature plasticity, so it is possible to change the shape of the finished material. Moreover, this does not affect its quality characteristics.
Liquid. A special type of decorative artificial stone produced using a gel coating (gelcoat). Features of the technology for manufacturing liquid stone affect the mechanical properties of finished products. It is also worth noting that cast decorative tiles are more resistant to temperature changes and moisture than liquid ones.
How to make a mold for artificial stone with your own hands
It is not difficult to purchase a matrix for casting this decorative finishing material in a specialized store. To save money, you can make such a template yourself. Another common reason for making a mold for decorative stone with your own hands is the lack of the necessary type of facing material on sale.
As a rule, ordinary samples of decorative tiles are used as the basis for the matrix. Sometimes the texture of a template is created using natural materials, which include not only natural stones. For example, patterns made to imitate wood patterns are very popular.
There are two types of forms:
- homogeneous;
- complex.
In the first case, the manufacturing procedure is less complicated. This is due to the fact that homogeneous matrices are smaller in size and do not require significant consumption of silicone material. In turn, complex molds make it possible to produce several finished tiles at once, which significantly speeds up the process. It is these matrices that are recommended to be used for making artificial stone for the wall.
Be that as it may, for the formwork you will need a wooden box, which you can make yourself. Sometimes cardboard boxes are used for these purposes. When selecting or making formwork, you need to remember one important rule: the template needs to be designed a little larger than the original stone sample, both in width (10-15 mm) and in height (25-30 mm). This will allow you to achieve the necessary clearance between the products.
To complete the form itself, you will need suitable material. To do this, you can use silicone sealant or polyurethane. There are also special sealants that consist of two ingredients and are sold ready-made.
How to make artificial stone: silicone mold
Silicone sealing compounds can be easily purchased at the construction market or in a specialized store. As a rule, this mixture is sold in tubes or buckets. After making the formwork, you need to take care of lubricating its walls. For this purpose, you can use regular grease.
Next, you need to take the original sample, according to which the template will be made, and place it at the bottom of the formwork. As mentioned above, you can use ordinary tiles, stone or wood. Then grease is also applied to this sample. The fatty substance will allow you to easily separate the matrix from the product and will not spoil the mold pattern.
Pay attention! If a gypsum element is used as a sample for the stencil, then ordinary lubricant is not enough. Before laying it in formwork, it is recommended to cover it with at least two layers of varnish. It is recommended to start making the matrix only after the varnish has completely hardened.
At the next stage, a soap solution is prepared. It is needed to lubricate the tools (brushes and spatula) that will be used to distribute the silicone.
Silicone sealant should be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the facing sample. During the formation of a matrix from this material, it is necessary to ensure that no air pockets are formed.
After filling the formwork with silicone, you can begin to level its surface. For this purpose, a second tool is used - a spatula. Then the mold for making decorative stone is left for some time. This will allow the sealant to harden in the formwork and acquire the desired shape of the sample.
It is worth noting that the longer the matrix is formed, the better quality it will be. Its service life will also depend on this. The approximate hardening rate of silicone is 2 mm per day. Thus, taking into account the thickness of the form, you can easily calculate the time for which you need to leave the stencil. After the matrix is ready, it should be separated from the formwork and the artificial stone sample.
Even a pre-greased mold is quite difficult to detach from the rest of the elements, so it is recommended to slightly trim the contact points. If, after removing the matrix, shells remain on its surface, then this problem can be solved with the help of an additional silicone compound. This is how a template is made for making artificial stone. Photos of finished stencils will help you in making them.
How to make artificial decorative stone from gypsum
To obtain finished decorative products, you first need to understand how to make plaster at home. Before mixing such material, it is advisable to immediately determine its volume. This is due to the fact that gypsum dough has a high hardening rate. Therefore, its quantity must correspond to the number of forms. Let's look at what components are used to produce the gypsum mixture:
- gypsum;
- water;
- sand;
- pigment.
Coloring powder is not used in all cases, but only when it is necessary to obtain decorative stones for a wall of a certain color. The process of mixing the composition itself is not complicated.
First you need to pour water into a pre-prepared tank. Next, you can start adding gypsum powder. The proportions may vary, but it is recommended that the amount of water is approximately 0.6 of the volume of the main component. Sand allows you to increase the strength of the future finishing material, so it is recommended to use it in any case. It should be no more than 10% of the total mass of the mixture.
Useful information! It is recommended to use gypsum and acrylic products as facing stones for interior decoration. In turn, for external work it is best to make concrete elements.
The amount of pigment may vary (from 2 to 6%). It is selected depending on what color you need to get the decorative tiles. It is recommended to test mix a small amount of gypsum in advance to determine the shade.
To lubricate the mold, as a rule, a substance is used that is made from turpentine and wax. The first component must occupy at least 70% of the volume, and the second - the remaining 30%.
After adding the last component to the mixture, it is distributed into molds and leveled with a spatula. The technology for producing artificial stone may include one more stage - vibration processing. Thanks to this, the performance characteristics of future tiles are significantly increased. It is advisable to carry out such processing immediately after placing the mixture in the matrix.
Then you need to wait 15 minutes and remove the formed brick from the stencil. The final step will be to dry it in the open air. It is strictly not recommended to heat treat such products, since gypsum is not resistant to high temperatures.
How to make a decorative stone with your own handsmade of concrete
For the manufacture of concrete finishing products, molds made of polyurethane or plastic are most often used. Let's look at what this type of artificial stone is made from:
- cement;
- sand;
- water;
- polymer resin;
- pigment.
The proportions for making artificial stone at home from concrete may be different. First you need to mix the above components. The proportions of cement and sand in this case are 1:3. At the next stage, you need to add water in such an amount that the consistency of the mixture reaches the state of thick sour cream. To give the cement mortar the necessary color, a small amount of pigment is used (2.5% of the total mass of the composition).
Now the resulting composition is distributed over stencils. At this stage it is very important not to make mistakes. The solution should fill the mold no more than halfway so that there is enough space for the reinforcing component. Often, to enhance the strength properties of decorative tiles, a metal mesh is placed on top of the cement. Then it needs to be filled with the remaining amount of solution.
Then it is necessary to compress the composition in molds through vibration. After vibration compaction, you need to wait at least 24 hours for the solution in the stencils to harden to the required state.
How to make artificial stone with your own handsacrylic
To make acrylic decorative products, you will need an appropriate resin and a special hardener. Let's consider what other tools and materials will be needed when making artificial stone from these materials:
- electric drill (for mixing the components into a homogeneous mixture);
- copolymer powder;
- ready-made or homemade lubricant.
Pay attention! Using an acrylic base also allows you to make artificial marble with your own hands. Thanks to the combination of polyester resin with mineral chips and coloring compounds, you can get very beautiful elements for wall decoration.
First of all, to make decorative acrylic stone, you will need to mix a polymer resin with a hardener. The proportion of these components in this case is 5:1. It is important to remember that after obtaining a mixture of these ingredients, its amount should correspond to 25% of the total volume of the compound.
Next, you need to add filler and coloring pigment to the acrylic mixture, which will take up the remaining 75% of the weight. Any mineral chips (for example, granite) can be used as the first one. The texture of the future facing material depends on its size. The color of the acrylic binder will be given by a pre-selected pigment. The amount of dye in this case is 2-6% of the total volume of the mixture.
To make decorative bricks with your own hands, you will need to fill the matrices with acrylic solution and wait approximately 24 hours. After this time, you can safely remove the finished tiles.
DIY liquid stone: gelcoat manufacturing technology
Of course, cast artificial stones have better physical properties, but liquid ones have one advantage. Thanks to gelcoat, it becomes possible to produce products that are complex in terms of shape. This material can be done independently at home.
The components required to make such a facing material are quite expensive. Today there are two simple technologies for manufacturing artificial stone of this type:
- creation of personnel;
- mixing the primer solution.
These methods differ from each other not only in composition, but also in the percentage of filler. For the primer mixture you will need to take 20% gelcoat (of the total mass of the solution). It is necessary to add one more ingredient - microcalcite, the share of which is 73%. Then 7% accelerator and 1% hardening agent are added to the above components.
In turn, you will have to spend exactly 2 times more gelcoat on the front composition, namely 40%. The proportion of accelerator and hardener in this case is also 7 and 1%. The mineral filler and coloring matter occupy the remaining mass of the solution. Hardening of liquid decorative stone occurs in 1 day.
Features of painting decorative stone
Today, there are two common methods that allow you to change the color of a homemade decorative stone. Adding special dyes is the most common method. Another option is to apply paint to the finished finishing material. Some people perform this procedure after laying cladding products.
If everything is clear with the first method, then it is recommended to pay attention to the second. To paint finished stones for wall decoration, special iron oxide compounds are used. Their price fully corresponds to the quality, which is quite acceptable.
Useful information! Experts recommend applying iron oxide paints using a special pneumatic spray gun. If you don't have one, you can use a regular brush, but this will complicate the work.
There are several rules that should be followed when performing this procedure. For example, the color of artificial decorative stone should be lighter than the seams. It is strictly not recommended to use more than 3 shades for painting.
ABOUTdecorating walls with decorative bricks: preparatory stage
Before you begin laying decorative stone, you must first prepare the wall surface. It must not only be strong, but also smooth, so that there are no problems with gluing the facing products. The permissible deviation in this case is 1 mm per 1 m of wall. Craftsmen advise adhering to this rule regardless of the type of finishing material.
Before you start decorating the walls with decorative bricks, you need to remove all old facing materials from them. These include the following: wallpaper, paint and plaster. To remove them, you can use a regular spatula. This tool is especially helpful when removing old wallpaper and paint.
Let's look at what tools and materials are needed to lay decorative bricks:
- glue;
- a reservoir in which the adhesive solution will be located;
- spatula for applying glue to the wall;
- crosses for seams;
- building level;
- grout mixture;
- hydrophobic composition and a tool for applying it (for example, a roller).
After acquiring all the necessary tools and materials, you should plaster the walls. It is important to remember that in this case it may be necessary to install a reinforcing mesh, which will strengthen the base for the decorative tiles. However, such a measure is necessary only when the weight of the artificial stone is too large. To lay thin decorative tiles under stone, there is no need for reinforcement. But in any case, you will have to eliminate wall defects.
You will need to apply a primer to the wall surface. This will strengthen the surface and enhance the adhesion effect of the facing tiles to it. Experts advise choosing a special primer for plaster.
Preparing the glue and applying the sketch to the wall
This type of stone requires the use of a special adhesive composition. To prepare such a building mixture, you will need to use ready-made powder and mix it in a certain amount of water. As a rule, along with the glue there are detailed instructions containing not only the proportions of the components, but also the time required for its production. In turn, laying decorative stone for exterior decoration is best done using cement mortar.
To install decorative non-natural stone, you can also use liquid nails. This mixture is able to provide the necessary adhesion to the wall. Some craftsmen even use cement mortar for indoor work. However, before applying it to the wall, PVA glue is first added to it.
Before you start laying decorative tiles with your own hands, you need to sketch a sketch on paper. It must take into account the area of the part of the wall allocated for brick, as well as the following nuances: the presence or absence of a seam and the number of artificial stones. The best option is to transfer the sketch directly to the wall. Thus, the possibility of errors when laying this facing material is practically eliminated.
How to glue decorative stone: instructions
Laying such facing material is not particularly difficult, but requires appropriate care and precision. First of all, thick glue is applied to the wall. Its quantity should correspond to the width of the first row. After applying the adhesive, you must begin laying the stone. To do this, each element is first applied to the wall, and then pressed down. The excess solution released after pressing on the brick is simply removed from the wall.
Useful information! If laying stone for a house is done end-to-end, then each subsequent element must be leaned tightly against the previous one. To organize the necessary seam, there are special delimiting elements - crosses. If you need to organize a larger distance between the facing products, then you can use plasterboard.
The best starting point is the corner of the room. It is necessary to lay the tiles gradually, one row at a time. It is important to remember that it is better to glue the tiles from the top, moving downwards. This will prevent the adhesive mixture from getting on already laid elements. To cut whole stones, as a rule, a regular grinder is used.
Some varieties of this decorative material are best glued to the wall with an offset. This simple step will allow you to achieve a more realistic result when finishing with artificial stone. Photos of various stylistic solutions will help you decide on the choice of color and texture.
After laying this finishing material, you must wait a few days. During this time, the solution will completely harden and it will be possible to remove the auxiliary elements. It is also advisable to prepare a solution for grouting in advance. It is made from cement adhesive mastic and pigment substance. It is applied in two ways: using a special gun or using a sponge.
At the last stage, it is necessary to wipe the tiles to remove any particles of mortar that got on them during installation. You can apply a hydrophobic composition to such a stone. Its use is recommended in cases where artificial material is installed in rooms with high humidity. After application, it forms a durable film on the surface of the cladding.
The technology is very similar to the process of laying natural stone for interior decoration. However, there are also differences, since the structure and weight of the artificial material still differ from those of natural products.
Caring for decorative elements of this type is not difficult. All that is needed to remove dust and other contaminants is to wipe the tiles with a damp sponge.
Thus, artificial decorative stone can be purchased on the construction market or made independently. The process of its formation is not complicated. But if you are not confident in your own abilities, then it is better to buy ready-made material.
