It's hard to imagine the creation modern interior without plasterboard, from which ceilings, arches, interior and decorative partitions, and walls are made. Gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL) is the cladding, and the shape of various structures is given by a frame made of metal profiles. Next we will tell you how the metal structure is formed and with the help of what devices the profiles are connected to each other and the supporting base.
What are plasterboard structures made of - a set of necessary components
The main element of any frame of plasterboard structures are galvanized profiles. The most popular of them are ceiling guide (UD) and ceiling carrier (CD). The name "ceiling" does not limit the use of these elements only on the ceiling. With their help, most other fastenings for drywall are created: wall sheathing, frames of arches, niches, decorative boxes, etc. Other profiles are used - guides (UW) and rack-mount (CW). These profiles are made in different widths (50, 75, 100 mm) to vary the thickness of the partitions.
In addition to profiles, for the installation of load-bearing structures you will need the following parts:
- straight hangers;
- single-level connectors;
- self-tapping screws for connecting metal frame elements;
- dowels or self-tapping screws to attach structural parts to ceilings or walls.
Direct hangers are perforated metal plates, which in working position take a U-shape, which is why professionals often call them “pawns”. The purpose of the hangers is to attach the profile to the ceiling and wall (to the base structures). Suspensions are available in different lengths, which makes it possible to adjust the distance of the frame from the ceiling or wall.
The maximum length of the load-bearing parts of the ceiling sheathing is 4 m. If a larger length is required, longitudinal connections have to be made. To make the joint rigid and neat, special longitudinal connecting elements in the form of galvanized metal cases are used. When it is necessary to connect the profiles perpendicular to each other, other parts are used - “crabs”, which make it possible to create a cross-shaped structure in one horizontal plane.
To fasten profiles under drywall to each other or connect them to other metal structural elements, special metal screws are used - “fleas”, which got their name for their small size. Their length is 10 mm. At the end of the thread, such screws are equipped with drills, thanks to which, with rotation and slight pressure, they are independently screwed into the metal parts of the frame.
If the base surface to which the frame for the gypsum board sheathing is fixed is made of brick or concrete, dowels are used as fastenings. When it is necessary to fasten to a porous building material (a wall made of foam block, shell rock, aerated concrete) or wood, phosphated (black) self-tapping screws are used.
Quick installation dowels are not securely fastened in loose materials and wood, but their function is perfectly performed by ordinary ones.
You will also need fasteners for the drywall itself. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the metal base using special self-tapping screws. They look similar to black wood hardware, but have a fine thread pitch. Drywall screws are available in lengths of 25.35 and 45 mm. Self-tapping screws 25 mm are intended for thin ceiling gypsum boards; fastenings for wall plasterboard are 35 mm long. Screws 45 mm long are useful for frames with a second layer of plasterboard sheets.
Suspended ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard - how is the frame made?
Let's look at how to attach a drywall profile using the example of assembling a single-level frame. The work begins with marking horizontal landmarks, for which a water level or laser level is used. According to the drawn lines, a guide profile is installed along the entire perimeter, which is fixed to the wall in increments of about 50 cm. Then the process of assembling the ceiling sheathing occurs as follows.
According to the chosen frame design, supporting profiles are inserted into the guide parts, cutting them to the required length. If their length is not enough, the supporting strips have to be lengthened, connecting longitudinally. How to connect a drywall profile to create a longer piece? To do this, use the above-mentioned connecting case, into which the whole profile is inserted on one side, and the fragment missing to the required length on the other. But that’s not all - from the shelves (side surfaces) two “fleas” are screwed in on each side.
Having distributed the load-bearing elements according to the intended layout, they begin to attach direct hangers. The “pawns” are fixed to the ceiling through special holes in their central part in increments of 50-60 cm opposite each profile. Having attached all the suspensions to the ceiling, bend their “ears” and use them to raise the profile above the installation plane.
At the level of the lower flanges of the guide profiles, the threads are pulled perpendicular to the load-bearing parts of the frame. Now each profile needs to be set so that its back barely touches the indicative threads indicating the horizontal plane. The exposed load-bearing part is fixed to the hangers with “fleas”, after which the protruding plates of the “pawns” are bent upward.
In places where the plasterboard sheets are joined transversely, it is necessary to install planks perpendicular to the load-bearing parts of the sheathing, for which “crabs” are used. First, the connecting device is put on a longitudinally installed profile, after which crossbars are inserted into the perpendicularly located “crab” connectors and fixed with self-tapping screws.
It is necessary to attach the drywall to the profile so that the transverse joining seams do not coincide, which is taken into account when installing the crossbars. The sheet is lifted and pressed against load-bearing structure the back side, while adjusting its position relative to the frame elements. Fixed in in the right position The gypsum board is attached to all load-bearing parts of the ceiling metal sheathing with plasterboard fasteners (25 mm self-tapping screws), in increments of about 20-25 cm.
Wall covering with plasterboard - what is special?
If for installation suspended ceilings If a thin 9.5 mm thick plasterboard sheet is used, then the wall structure is sheathed with thicker plasterboard. The thickness of the wall sheet is often 12.5 mm, less often – 15 mm. Sometimes, to create a structure of increased strength, the technology of two-layer frame sheathing is used, when a second layer is sewn on top of the first layer of gypsum board. In this case, fastenings for two-layer plasterboard 45 mm long are used.
The technology for installing wall sheathing is somewhat different from working on the ceiling, although the principle of creating the structure is generally similar. First, guide profiles are installed, but the perimeter of the vertical frame being formed runs along the floor, opposite walls and ceiling (ceilings). Load-bearing posts (CD profile) are inserted into the upper and lower guide parts of the structure and fixed to the wall with hangers. Everything is almost the same as on the ceiling, but there are some peculiarities.
- 1. It is usually not necessary to add length to CD profiles using longitudinal connecting cases, since rooms with a ceiling height above 4 meters are rare.
- 2. The hangers are also fixed opposite the racks, but their location is somewhat different. Since the main operational load is assumed to be on the lower part of the wall, the suspensions are fixed at the following height: the first is 50–60 cm from the floor surface, the next is 1–1.2 m, the third is between the second “pawn” from the bottom and the ceiling.
- 3. When assembling a wall frame, it is customary to fasten the profile in increments of 60 cm and install transverse stiffeners - this is standard scheme location of supporting posts. If you need to strengthen the structure, the pitch of the profiles is reduced to 40 cm.
When installing plasterboard sheets over the created wall sheathing made of metal profiles, you also need to take into account some nuances. Firstly, gypsum boards are mounted so that the panels do not rest against the surface of the floor and ceiling (ceilings). A deformation gap is required, which prevents the pressure of building structures on the drywall when the building moves and allows the material to change dimensions when the temperature conditions in the room change. How is the gap made? The sheet is cut out about a centimeter less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling, and before the gypsum board is attached to the frame, small (about 0.5 cm) supports are placed underneath it. After screwing the plasterboard panel to the stand profile, it is removed.
Secondly, when sheathing the created structure from metal profiles with two layers of plasterboard, the vertical seams should not be located on the same rack. To do this, the sheets of the second layer of gypsum board are shifted when installed on one profile relative to the first.
The key to the durability of a plasterboard structure is the reliability of the constructed structure made of metal profiles. Some people think this is a no-brainer, and they are wrong. If you do not learn some of the subtleties of performing the work, then the painstaking work and wasted time of an inexperienced (beginner) master will be in vain. Therefore, we suggest you figure out how to attach the profile so that the structure not only looks aesthetically pleasing, but also brings joy for many years.
Profile for gypsum board
The initial stage is the marking, according to which the structure will be installed in the future. To do this, you will need available tools: fishing line, chalk, plumb line (preferably several), ruler, hammer, nails.
Procedure:
- Using a nail, a plumb line is fixed to the wall just below the ceiling, which drops all the way to the floor. The same manipulations are performed on the other side of the proposed structure. Along the entire length from the ceiling to the floor, nothing should come into contact with the plumb line. Otherwise, the vertical will be broken;
- Three fishing lines are stretched along the wall. One along the floor, the second in the middle of the wall, the third under the ceiling. A light touch of the lines at intersections is acceptable;
- The highest point is marked on the surface of the wall; it is impossible to attach the metal frame deeper than this;
- A distance equal to the thickness of the profile used is retreated from the highest point, and the breakdown is checked;
- An additional fishing line is stretched near the side wall parallel to the one already attached. Marks are placed on the same side wall using a ruler, which is placed across the lines. This is how the future plane is outlined;
- The process is done similarly on the other wall. Markings are also applied along the floor and on the ceiling;
- Using the rule and chalk, the outline of the perimeter is outlined.
Installation of the guide profile Installation of metal profile
The sheathing will be smooth if the gypsum board profiles are installed correctly. And this depends on the quality of installation of the guide metal profile. In order to attach it you will need: pliers, special scissors, dowel nails, hammer, punch drill.
- A guide metal profile is attached to the chalk line. From its upper edge one steps about thirty centimeters and drills a hole in the wall. The depth of the hole is not much greater than the length of the nail;
- The following holes are made low from the floor and in the middle;
- After checking the conformity of the feature and the guide profile, the dowels are driven in;
- The metal profile of the guide type is installed with an overlap. To do this, the sides are cut off on both sides with scissors and bent outward. The middle of the curved part is cut off, after which the edge is leveled using pliers;
- A trimmed profile is applied along the line. In the place where the fixed and new profiles touch, a hole is drilled and a dowel is installed without clogging;
- It is aligned along the intended line, a few more holes are drilled and dowels are secured;
- The above operation is reproduced for the opposite wall, along the floor, ceiling;
- The installed structure is strengthened along the entire perimeter. Depending on the strength of the wall, the pitch (the distance between the driven dowels) is selected. It varies from 20 to 40 centimeters.
Laying the vertical
It would be correct to mount the metal profile according to the size of the gypsum board used. To do this, measure its width and mark the point that falls in the middle of the metal profile. A similar procedure is performed for the remaining sheets.
Vertical installation To lay marks along the floor, the width of the plasterboard is divided into equal sections of no more than 50 centimeters. Using a plumb line, each point is transferred to the ceiling.
To avoid any questions about how to attach the profile to the wall, this process is described in detail:
- From the mark located in the middle of the wall, the gap from the floor to the ceiling is measured and transferred to the metal profile with a deduction of ten millimeters. To avoid inaccuracies, a line is drawn across. Each side is processed according to the scheme described above;
- The processed workpiece is applied to the wall and lines are drawn at both ends. Visually dividing it into three equal parts in height, marks are made, after which the workpiece is removed;
- To attach the profile evenly, a suspension is installed along the intended lines under the ceiling on each side of the profile;
- Stepping back half a centimeter from the floor and ceiling, a vertical one is attached to the guide metal profile, starting from the top.
Verticality is checked using the rule or the same plumb lines. It is easier to correct errors at this stage than to find that the skin is slightly crooked upon completion.
Horizontal lines
These fragments act as some kind of partitions to strengthen the structure. These elements are not attached to the wall. In the place where the horizontal meets the vertical, a practical device called a crab is installed. Other places take a different approach:
- From the middle of one vertically installed metal profile to the middle of another, measure the distance;
- Based on this measurement, the workpiece is cut and placed at the intended installation location;
- Marks are made on the sides of the profile using a marker, along which recesses will be cut to connect the two profiles. The procedure is the same as described above;
- Afterwards, the metal profile is installed in place and fixed with screws;
- Checking horizontality using a level.
Docking elements The frame is ready for further processing. Sheathing begins with solid sheets. They are installed in a checkerboard pattern. The remaining gaps are sheathed with leftovers.
During the finishing of premises, one has to deal with such an important component of any structure as an expansion joint. Plasterboard sheathing is no exception. A correctly designed, equipped, decorated expansion joint is the key to the durability of the structure.
Deformation seam
It compensates for the stress that occurs in the materials used to construct the structure. The causes of stress are shifts of elements and their deformations. An expansion joint divides a huge area into certain smaller blocks, the deformation of which does not affect the “neighbor”. This solution reduces tension and helps avoid destructive processes.
The following expansion joints are distinguished:
- Antiseismic;
- Shrink;
- Sedimentary;
- Temperature and others.
The key point is sealing and sealing the seams. Beginners should understand that the deformation joint is a vulnerable place for moisture and contamination, which leads to loss of quality and destruction of the structure.
The following video will provide detailed instructions and a clear example.
Sealing is performed various materials, including hernite and swelling cords, waterstops, hydrophilic rubber profiles.
The expansion joint is also formed with special profiles. This method is most popular in modern construction. Profiles ergonomically combine two functions: sealing and reinforcement. In addition, using this method, the seams are given greater aesthetics, and the joining places are more constructive. Today, the market offers a wide range of profiles depending on the type of expansion joint. Therefore, any structural problem can be easily solved.
Deformation profile Perseverance, awareness and desire are the components of constructing a quality structure, covering walls and ceilings with plasterboard sheets.
To cover a wall with plasterboard, you need to know how to attach the profile to the wall, since the metal frame is an integral part of the plasterboard wall. How to attach a profile for plasterboard is exactly what you need to know before you start creating any plasterboard structures. Correct installation metal profiles are the only way to secure the frame firmly enough. It is important to understand in detail how the guides are attached to the floor, how they are fastened with dowels in the corners and other details of installation.
What is this article about?
Perimeter marking
The first thing you need to do when mounting a frame from metal profiles is to correctly draw the plane. A plumb line will be required. Secure it with a nail to the ceiling. It should go all the way down to the floor. We perform exactly the same procedure on the other side, lowering the second plumb line along the second edge of the wall. To ensure the vertical is accurate, make sure that nothing touches the plumb line. Foreign objects may slightly bend its direction. Next, you need to stretch three fishing lines along the wall. We stretch the first fishing line just under the ceiling, but it should not touch the surface of the ceiling. We stretch the second line just above the floor, but at a fairly low height. The third line is stretched in the middle of the wall. At intersections, all three lines should lightly touch each other.
To determine the level at which we will install the frame, we need to find the point of the wall that sticks out the most. It is at this level that the frame is mounted, since we need the wall to be perfectly flat surface. From the most protruding point we retreat a distance according to the size of the frame profile and check the breakdown.
Parallel to the fishing line located near the side wall, we pull another fishing line. We take a ruler and place it across the lines to make plane marks on the adjacent side wall. The same procedure must be carried out on the other side, that is, on the other side wall, as well as on the ceiling and floor. Using chalk, draw a perimeter.
It is very important to remember that all the lines should only touch lightly and not push each other. If one fishing line helps to change the position of another, then the plane turns out to be uneven. This defect may not be visible to the naked eye, but its consequences will be clearly visible after installation.
Installation of the guide profile
The guide profile is the basis of the frame. It can be compared to the foundation on which all other elements stand. It is on the guide profile that all other profiles are installed. Hence the name - guide. This element creates the basis for the future structure, so its installation must be approached with the utmost rigor and seriousness, because if the guide profile is installed incorrectly, then the entire frame will not be installed correctly. Moreover, such a defect cannot be easily corrected after installation, as can be done with vertical and horizontal elements.
Due to the fact that the markings are applied to the walls, floor and ceiling, the guide profiles will be much easier to attach. We start the procedure from the bottom to make it easier. We attach the guide element to the wall. We retreat thirty centimeters from the top edge of the profile and make a hole in the wall to attach the profile. The hole should be slightly deeper than the length of the dowel-nail with which you will fix the frame elements. Then the same holes need to be made at the bottom and in the middle. Once we have three drilled holes, we can insert dowels into them. We carefully check that the guide profile corresponds to the intended line, and knock out the dowels with a hammer. Measure the entire remaining distance and add another two centimeters to it. It is important to remember that the guides are attached overlapping. Take tin snips and use them to cut off the sides. Then you need to bend the profile outward and cut off the middle with the same metal scissors. Then the edges need to be aligned. Regular pliers will do for this.
The guide profile is installed on the line, after which it is secured at the dowel-nail junction. To do this, you need to drill a hole at the joint, and then hammer a dowel into it. The same is done on the opposite wall. Then the entire structure must be reinforced with dowels and nails. The pitch between dowels should be approximately twenty to forty centimeters.
Rack profiles
Next, you need to install rack metal profiles. These are exactly the profiles on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached. Therefore, it is very important to take the correct step between the two posts. It should be exactly sixty centimeters. Moreover, this distance should be measured not from edge to edge of the adjacent profile, but between their centers. Why is this particular distance necessary? In order for the sheathing to be sufficiently securely fastened, one plasterboard sheet must be fixed to three rack-mount metal profiles at once. In this case, two adjacent plasterboard sheets are fixed to the same profile. It turns out that the profiles alternate. One serves as a support for two adjacent sheets, the next one is located in the middle of one sheet, the next one again holds two sheets and so on.
Rack profiles are attached to horizontal guides that were installed on the ceiling and floor. The stand must be inserted into the cavity of the guide elements. In this case, the stand should be perfectly level and vertical. In order to check the correct installation of each rack and the entire frame as a whole, a building level or plumb line is used. The next step is screwing in the screws. Special metal screws should connect the guide profiles with the posts inserted into them. Only after the rack profiles are securely fastened to the guide elements can they be attached to the hangers.
Jumpers
Horizontal profiles, or lintels, are installed only to strengthen the structure so that our frame can support more weight. Jumpers are not an independent type of profile. They are made from rack profiles. We take the stand and, using metal scissors or a grinder, saw off the jumper of the size we need. The finished jumper must be secured with metal screws on two adjacent rack profiles. In some places where two diameters intersect each other, special fasteners - crabs - are used to secure the structure.
This completes the installation of the frame. You can proceed with the installation of plasterboard sheets with a clear conscience. It often happens that the frame is not installed conscientiously enough, but this is revealed after long-term use of the plasterboard wall, when the plasterboard sheets begin to crack. Noticeable defects form on the wall, which greatly harm the appearance of the room. In such cases, it is not always necessary to carry out major repairs. Perhaps only one profile was installed poorly. In this case, you can remove the sheathing from the damaged area, tighten the profile and attach a new plasterboard sheet. It will no longer be possible to use old drywall, and the decorative finish will suffer. But it is much cheaper than completely changing the room's cladding. But, of course, it is best to treat the installation of the frame with all responsibility, so that such defects do not even arise. In this case, there will be no need to repair anything. So, it is better to check the frame and all its elements ten times before proceeding with plasterboard sheathing.
Unusual profile shapes
If you are going to install extraordinary cladding that can impress with its appearance guests, then you will probably need not straight profiles, which are only suitable for creating a flat plasterboard wall, but curved structures on which more interesting figures can be attached. How to make a curved profile. Curved profiles can be bought in stores if you look hard enough, but they are sold quite rarely and, naturally, at a high price. But there is a way to save time and money. You can create a metal curved profile with your own hands. For this we do not need any complex tools and materials. Just a regular profile and scissors for metal work will be enough.
Take the profile and, along its side, make several cuts with metal scissors. If you want to bend the profile only a little, then a few cuts will be enough. For stronger bends, cuts will need to be made more often. The more cuts are made along the profile, the stronger the bend will be. You are probably already afraid that the profile will lose its strength and rigidity as a result of such a transformation. If so, then you are wrong. The profile remains as strong and reliable as it was before it was bent. Because of this, now it has an unusual shape that can be used to create equally unusual and complex plasterboard structures and niches on the wall.
It is not always possible to get a successful curved profile the first time. If you are not sure of the quality of the element you have made, then it is better not to mount it, but to try again with a different profile. Even if you spend extra time and material, it’s better than mounting an unreliable profile into the frame. In this case, you risk losing significantly more money when the work has to be redone.
In order for a structure made of plasterboard sheets on a wall or ceiling to be strong and reliable, you need to know how to attach a plasterboard profile correctly. And also - how to lengthen it, connect it to each other, what fastenings to use.
You won't have to rack your brains over these questions if you carefully study this article. The instructions for creating frames from metal profiles are simple and clear, the material itself is light and easy to work with, so you won’t have any problems.
Fastening the profile when creating a frame for gypsum boards
The problem of how to attach a profile under drywall is solved differently depending on what you are creating: a frame for a partition, for wall cladding or ceiling lining.
But in any case, the profiles have to be cut or extended to length, connected at an angle to each other, attached to the base, and sometimes bent. We will describe each of these procedures in detail.
Connecting profiles
Most often, it is necessary to connect two or more profiles in a straight line - to increase the length, or at right angles to each other - to connect adjacent guides and give the frame greater rigidity.
- Building up. If the three-meter length of one profile is not enough, it is connected to the second (or its segment) using a special connector.
The ends of two connecting profiles are inserted into it and fixed with short self-tapping screws with a press washer (builders often call them “bugs” or “seeds”).
For reference. Before fastening a drywall profile to another, it may be necessary to shorten it in length.
To do this, use metal scissors to cut its sides to the base, then break the profile, bending and straightening it several times.
- Cross connection. It is mainly necessary for creating ceiling frames. You will not have any difficulties with how to properly attach the drywall profile crosswise if you use “crabs”.
All four profiles are inserted into the “crab” with their ends, snapped into it, after which the antennae of the connecting part are bent 90 degrees and screwed to the sides of the profiles with the same “bugs”.
Attention. You can do without “crabs”. To do this, you need to cut the transverse profiles along the fold with your own hands and break off or bend the sides. Then place them on the longitudinal profile and secure with “bugs”.
- T-joint. This is done either using the method just described, or using a “crab”, having previously trimmed off the excess part of the part.
Attention!
If you need to connect the guide and rack profiles, the latter is simply inserted into the first and screwed with one self-tapping screw.
Bending profiles
When creating arches, niches and complex ceiling structures, profiles sometimes need to be bent.
How to do this - watch the video posted on our website.
- If you cut both sides of the profile to the back, it will bend along it as you need. The steeper the required bend radius, the smaller the distance between cuts should be.
- If you cut one of the sides and continue the cut along the back, the drywall profile will bend along the second side.
Fastening profiles
The answer to the question of how to properly attach a profile under drywall depends on what distance should be maintained between the base and the cladding, as well as on the material of this base.
More precisely, the fastening of the profile for drywall occurs in two stages. First, hangers are attached to the base, and only then profiles are fixed on them, which are then set to a given level.
- A hanger with a spoke is used for installing plasterboard suspended ceilings. It consists of a shaped metal plate to which the profile is attached, an expansion element and a rod (spokes).
At the end of the knitting needle there is a hook through which the suspension is attached to the base. Using the expanding element, the rod is released to the desired length.
The choice of fasteners depends not on the type of suspension, but on the material of the supporting base. If it is wood, you can use regular wood screws or nails.
Attention!
Suspensions are attached to the ceiling only with self-tapping screws!
For fastening to a brick or concrete base, dowel-nails are used, for which it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the plasterboard dowel.
For hollow brick or aerated concrete, it is better to choose dowels with transverse notches and spacer whiskers.
The strength of the entire structure depends on how the suspensions are fixed.
But here it is important not only the reliability of the fastening, but also the correct determination of their position, since the profiles for drywall need to be fastened at a certain distance from each other.
- The width of the gypsum board sheet is 120 cm, so the profiles should be located parallel to each other at a distance of 40 or 60 cm between the axes. This will allow you to attach two adjacent sheets to one extreme profile.
- The suspensions are fixed strictly on one line, which is marked in advance. Deviating from it will not allow you to set a profile.
For reference. If there are no hangers, they can be made from PS profile scraps. To do this, they are cut along the sides, bent in an L shape and attached to the wall.
The price of such fastening will be minimal, and the reliability will be high.
Attaching the profile to the hangers
The profile is attached to direct hangers with short self-tapping screws with a press washer. In one of the pictures above, you have already seen that after twisting, the legs of the suspension, protruding beyond the profile, bend to the sides.
To hangers with traction, depending on their design, the profile is either screwed with the same screws or simply snapped onto special protrusions.
The technology of cladding with plasterboard sheets came to the construction market from the West, thereby revolutionizing the production of finishing works. GCR has many advantages over ordinary plaster, and therefore it has become very popular in private and industrial construction. Drywall is a kind of dry plaster that is very quickly installed on a finished frame without using water, as with cement plaster. The article discusses the question of how to attach a drywall profile to a wall.
Currently, drywall is the most popular material for renovation. They can cover walls, ceilings, make niches, arches, and also lay floors.
Each sheet of drywall is approximately 3 square meters, and can be installed in a matter of minutes. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly, since it contains gypsum and cardboard with a small admixture of other additives for bending strength. Today, plasterboard can be used to cover walls, ceilings, arches, install new partitions, construct built-in furniture, and sometimes even cover floors. Now the technology for attaching drywall to a wall with a profile has been so developed that there are various frame elements for different types sheathing. Almost anyone who knows how to use a tool can master this technology.
Materials for mounting the frame under drywall
In order to correctly attach drywall to the wall on a profile, you must use quality materials. To cover a gypsum board wall you will need:
- galvanized profile UD 27×28 mm with a wall thickness of 0.6 mm;
- galvanized profile CD 27x60 mm with a wall thickness of 0.55 mm or 0.6 mm;
- universal U-shaped suspension;
- self-tapping screws with a 3.5x9.5 mm drill, so-called “fleas”;
- self-tapping screws with a press washer and a metal drill 4.2x13 mm;
- driven dowel 6x40 or 6x60 mm;
- self-tapping screw for gypsum board measuring 3.5x25 mm for metal;
- extensions for frame elements;
When choosing materials for installation, give preference only to high-quality products; the final result depends on your choice
When choosing a material, it is worth noting that you should not save and buy the cheapest one, with a thickness of 0.4 mm. Much better to use quality profile KNAUF company. It has a thickness of 0.6 mm and meets all requirements for strength and durability.
Installation tool
To install gypsum boards you will need a certain kit the necessary tool, its list sometimes depends on the characteristics of the surfaces on which the gypsum board needs to be fixed. Here is a list of the standard set of tools:
- laser level or level;
- tape measure and marker;
- chop cord or just nylon cord;
- hammer drill with a 6 mm drill and a chisel for chipping off uneven surfaces;
- screwdriver;
- rule for checking the surface;
- hammer;
- Bulgarian;
- metal scissors;
- cutter;
- extension cord for power tools;
- building level.
There is a standard set of tools for working with drywall, but you can replace some tools if they are missing, for example, instead of a laser level, you can use a regular plumb line
Instead of a laser level, you can use a regular plumb line and a tapping cord, but a modern laser level greatly facilitates the work and makes it very simple and enjoyable. A cutter is a special pliers that can be used to connect two profiles without screws, and quite firmly too.
Drywall frame installation technology
Attaching a profile under plasterboard can be divided into several stages:
- preparatory – acquisition necessary materials and tools;
- marking the wall for attaching the frame;
- fastening guide profiles 28x27 mm;
- installation of the main profile 27x60 mm;
- sheathing with plasterboard sheets.
The preparatory stage includes the acquisition of the required number of frame elements, fasteners, as well as the preparation of tools. Before starting work, the surface of the wall, as well as the floor, is cleaned of debris, mortar and concrete deposits so that the starting guide element can lie on the floor at a distance of 2 - 5 cm from the wall.
The next important step is marking the wall for the future frame for the gypsum board. Before this, it is necessary to decide whether thermal insulation will be installed under the gypsum board. Marking is best done using a laser construction level. He simultaneously draws a laser beam across all four planes: two walls, a ceiling and a floor. The plane enclosed between these rays will be strictly vertical. When building walls made of brick, cinder block or reinforced concrete panels, there is always a slight deviation from the vertical. This value for the distance from floor to ceiling can be from one to several centimeters. Plasterboard walls must be performed strictly vertically, and therefore from the very beginning it is necessary to determine the amount of deviation of the existing wall from the vertical. To do this, install a laser level and turn on the vertical plane projection; the laser beam will be projected onto adjacent walls, ceiling and floor.
There is not a single construction site where plasterboard is not used, especially since there are currently several types, such as: waterproof, fire-resistant, wall, ceiling and arched
Now, using a regular tape measure, you can determine the distance from the wall surface to the laser beam at different points from floor to ceiling. The difference in these measurements is the deviation of the surface from the vertical. It’s good if the wall has a small slope at the top outward, then the guide profile at the bottom can be installed close to the existing wall, thereby reducing the area and volume of the room minimally. If the wall at the top is piled inward by several centimeters, then on the floor below it is necessary to retreat the distance by this amount of blockage. Let's say there is a blockage outward, then on the floor they retreat to the thickness of the insulation and draw a line. The size from this line to the laser beam is laid at the top of the ceiling and a line is drawn. This line is easy to apply with a tapping cord. Lines are drawn on the side walls in the same way. The main markup ends here.
Next, you need to attach 27x28 mm guide profiles to the ceiling, floor and side walls. Using ready-made drawn lines, apply a guide and secure it with a self-tapping screw if the floor is wooden, or with a driven dowel if it is a ceiling or walls. A hole is pre-drilled for the dowel using a hammer drill with a 6 mm drill. The guides are fastened at intervals of 30–50 cm. In the corners, the profiles are inserted one into the other.
After installing all the guides, begin marking for the installation of vertical posts 27x60 mm. 40, 80, 120 cm are laid from one wall and again 40, 80, 120 cm. This is done along the lower floor profile and the upper ceiling profile. In this case, the marking is carried out from the same end. All that remains is to cut the 27x60 mm profile to length, while cutting it one centimeter shorter than the distance from the floor to the ceiling, so that it is easier to insert it. All vertical profiles 27x60 mm are installed using ready-made marks on the horizontal guides. In the corners of the wall where the guide profile is attached, it is necessary to place a vertical profile 27x60 mm, bringing it inside the guide. When installing vertical frame elements, it is necessary to control the verticality using a building level. Although, if everything is done correctly, according to the above, everything should be strictly vertical. At the bottom and top, the pillar profiles are secured to the guides using self-tapping screws with a press washer and a screwdriver. After this, the installation of universal hangers begins. They are attached to the wall, and for each vertical profile, 4 pieces of suspension are installed every 50 cm. It is highly desirable that all suspensions are fixed in even rows in the horizontal plane. U-shaped hangers are fixed to the wall on one side, the other two are bent at 90 degrees until they touch the vertical profile. All that remains is to attach the hangers to the 27x60 mm posts. However, in order for the vertical plane to be perfectly level, it is necessary to perform the following simple procedure. A nylon cord is pulled over a row of installed universal hangers and secured at the edges. All vertical profiles are aligned along the cord and secured to the hangers with flea screws. It is necessary to ensure that the cord is approximately one millimeter away from the posts being secured.
This procedure must be done for all rows of suspensions. This is the most time-consuming stage, although it guarantees success. You can significantly simplify the work and, instead of a cord, attach a 27x60 mm profile in the middle between the ceiling and floor, securing it with self-tapping screws. And then set everything else according to it. After fastening all the vertical posts to the hangers, you can use the rule to check the surface formed by the frame elements in different directions. At this point, the task of how to attach a profile under drywall is considered completed.
The next stage is attaching the gypsum board directly. We can briefly outline how to attach drywall to a profile. The sheets are fastened with 3.5x25 mm self-tapping screws using a screwdriver with a special magnetic attachment. The fastening step is 30 cm.
Conclusion
The use of gypsum plasterboard in finishing work is so widespread that there is not a single construction site where such finishing is not used. Moreover, gypsum boards are now produced with different characteristics: it can be waterproof, fire-resistant, wall, ceiling and arched. Installation technology is also so developed that it is possible to create any interior design using partitions, multi-tiered ceilings, arches and built-in furniture. Principles of installation of frames and gypsum boards for different cases do not differ significantly, therefore, having learned how to attach gypsum boards to a profile with your own hands, you can carry out any repairs yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists.
