PVC film sheets are very sensitive to low temperatures; they lose their elasticity and become brittle. Therefore, these models should not be used on unheated loggias. Fabric products impregnated with polyurethane are not afraid of low temperatures and are perfect for balconies without heating.
Tension French models are characterized by quick installation and hide various defects and unevenness on the ceiling. They have a long service life, are environmentally friendly, easy to maintain, and some types are resistant to deformation and temperature changes. Disadvantages include the fact that they are prone to damage and reduce the height of the room.
The photo shows a matte stretch fabric white in the interior of the balcony.
A huge selection of tension products perfectly emphasizes the interior of the balcony and makes it truly unique.
Plastic panels
They are the simplest and cheapest cladding option that can be installed frame method or simply glue it to a concrete ceiling plane. PVC panels are quite easy to maintain and are not subject to corrosion.
Suspension
Such systems have a low price, easy installation and are considered quite practical.
- Rack and pinion. Aluminum or wooden slats, treated with special compounds, are suitable for decorating both open and closed balconies. They are very strong, durable, resistant to moisture and easy to install.
- From plasterboard. This option is used for finishing insulated and glazed loggias with high ceilings. It has additional sound and heat insulation, is easy to process and is relatively inexpensive.
The photo shows a glazed loggia with a suspended two-level plasterboard ceiling.
Wooden ceiling
It looks very beautiful and impressive. Wooden ceilings are environmentally friendly and durable.
- From the lining.
- Made from laminate.
The photo shows a light wooden ceiling in the interior of the loggia.
Ceiling tiles
It has a very organic appearance and does not visually reduce the height of the balcony. The degree of complexity of installation depends on the selected material. For example, to install mirror tiles, you need to waterproof the room in advance and install a special frame.
Colored
For the ceiling on the balcony, façade water-based or acrylic paints. They are resistant to temperature changes and are not afraid of atmospheric influences.
The photo shows a loggia with a ceiling painted yellow.
Types of ceiling structures
There are several types, which are divided by the number of levels:
- Single level.
- Two-level.
Types of texture
The main types of ceiling surfaces:
- Matte. This texture resembles an ordinary perfectly leveled, plastered, painted ceiling. Matte surfaces do not reflect, but at the same time scatter light evenly.
- Glossy. It has a mirror effect, which creates a visual enlargement of the room. The glossy texture in combination with well-chosen lighting looks especially stunning.
- Satin. It has an original texture with a special micro-relief, due to which an imitation of satin fabric is created. Such models unobtrusively reflect light glare.
The photo shows a balcony in light colors and a white ceiling with a matte texture.
Ceiling colors
The most common colors used for decoration:
- White.
- Green.
- Grey.
- Black.
- Blue.
- Brown.
Design and decoration
Interesting ceiling surface design options:
- With backlight. Thanks to LED strip, you can create a floating ceiling structure on the balcony. Such lighting creates a soft diffused light flux and creates an unusual atmosphere in the space.
- With beams. A ceiling decorated with decorative beams will undoubtedly become the most noticeable and memorable decor of the loggia.
- Two-color. It has a beautiful and very original appearance and allows you to visually divide the room into certain zones.
Photos in various styles
Original style solutions for decorating the ceiling on a loggia in an apartment, country cottage or wooden house.
- Loft. A smooth painted or rough untreated ceiling surface in light colors will fit perfectly into the interior of a panoramic loggia made in an industrial style.
- Provence. For this style, products made from natural materials, mainly wood, are suitable. These can be wooden slats, eurolining, cork panels or various beams in soothing colors and shades.
- Chalet. Untreated, artificially aged boards in combination with massive dark or light beams will especially emphasize the naturalness and naturalness of the chalet style.
- Marine style. Stretch glossy ceiling models in white, blue or blue tones will perfectly complement the marine theme.
The photo shows a loggia with a white ceiling decorated with black spots.
Which ceiling is better to use on the balcony?
- For cold loggias, painting, aluminum slats or stretch ceiling fabric models that are not afraid of low temperatures and are not exposed to any impact are perfect.
- Almost any type of finish will be appropriate on an insulated balcony.
- For small loggias, it is undesirable to use bulky hanging structures.
Photo gallery
The ceiling on the balcony provides the opportunity to transform this space into a functional, cozy and comfortable room. Various interesting ceiling designs in combination with lighting allow you to turn a loggia into a full-fledged room.
If a balcony or loggia serves as a continuation of the space of the room, or an additional comfortable relaxation area, then decorative finishing of this room cannot be done without. First of all, you should think about how to arrange the floor and ceiling on the loggia, taking into account the design features, the influence of the external environment and the overall design concept of the house.
Basic requirements for the ceilings of loggias and balconies
As a rule, the ceilings of balconies and loggias have a small area, so their preparation and finishing will not take too much time. But this does not mean that the mandatory requirements should not be met:
- Providing reliable waterproofing, both protection from precipitation and possible flooding from neighbors above, preventing condensation from accumulating when windows are tightly closed;
- Good thermal insulation if you plan to use the balcony all year round. This factor should be taken into account only in the case of a glazed space.
- The right choice of decorative finishes that does not contradict the overall design of the room.
Ceiling waterproofing
Solving the problem of waterproofing is greatly simplified when the balcony above is reliably protected from moisture and well maintained. In the case where the upper balcony is open and the neighbors do not attach importance to the issue of waterproofing, the situation is more complicated.
The porous structure of a concrete slab, which for some is a floor, and for others a ceiling, can accumulate moisture and be eroded over time, and when it hardens and expands under the influence of low temperatures, the cracks become large and the gradual destruction of concrete begins.
The lack of waterproofing also implies the penetration of moisture into the walls over time and the subsequent formation of mold and mildew on the walls of the interior. In addition, the concrete structure, under the influence of erosion, exposes the reinforcement structure to corrosion, gradually making the house unsafe to live in.
Therefore, if you do not provide waterproofing for the balcony and loggia, you will end up having to do a major overhaul of the entire balcony.
Before carrying out work, the concrete ceiling slab is cleaned, dirt and weak areas are removed from it. Then the surface is primed. Next, a layer of elastic waterproofing is applied. After complete drying, a layer of repair composition is applied, intended for the restoration of reinforced concrete structures.
Important! Most carefully it is necessary to process the external end part of the reinforced concrete slab, which is most susceptible to external factors.
Coating with waterproofing is carried out not only over the surface area of the slab, but also with an extension of 200-250 mm onto the walls. This ensures complete sealing and prevents moisture from penetrating through the seams between the balcony ceiling and the windows.
Only high-quality waterproofing can ensure the effective implementation of further work necessary for high-quality further finishing of the ceiling on a balcony or loggia.
Insulation
In order for the microclimate in the loggia to be optimal, it is necessary to insulate it. It is best to insulate a room as a complex, that is, insulate the walls, floor, and ceiling at once.
Most often the following materials are used for this:
- Mineral wool;
- Expanded polystyrene group materials (foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam);
- Sprayed polyurethane foam;
- Penofol.
Mineral wool
This is a sought-after and popular insulation material that copes well with its tasks, providing optimal thermal protection and at the same time meeting environmental and safety requirements. Installation of such insulation is carried out using wooden slats, making a lathing out of them.
Important! If you select as insulation mineral wool, then before laying it it is necessary to very efficiently seal the balcony or loggia area. This will prevent the insulation from absorbing excess moisture.
On the lower side, before finishing work, before making the ceiling on the loggia, a vapor barrier membrane should be installed between the mineral wool and the decorative layer.
Important! The premises of a glazed loggia or balcony must be periodically ventilated by opening the windows wide. This will help avoid condensation on the glass, especially when drying clothes.
Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam
Polystyrene foam is a fairly fragile and brittle material, but at the same time affordable. In addition, it is highly flammable and, when decomposed, can release quite toxic harmful substances into the environment.
Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), due to its homogeneous porous structure that practically does not allow air to pass through and does not absorb moisture, has high strength characteristics. It is also slightly flammable and does not emit harmful substances.
Spray polyurethane foam
This material has a high adhesion rate to almost all surfaces, providing a seamless, vapor barrier and waterproof coating. And as an insulation material it has practically no analogues.
The disadvantages of this material include the complexity of its installation (application), which requires special components and equipment, as well as application experience. In addition, it has a high price and is not always available to the common man.
Penofol
It is a foamed polyethylene roll with a foil coating applied. The thickness of the produced penofol varies from 3 to 20 mm. Due to the foil layer, it reflects heat well, preventing it from escaping outside the room. This material also copes well with the function of vapor barrier, and can be used in combination with other insulation materials as protection against steam and condensation.
When choosing insulation, you should pay attention to its safety and environmental characteristics, since a balcony or loggia is an extension of the home, and materials that are not harmful to humans should be used for its finishing.
Types of finishing
When deciding which decorative finish to choose for the ceiling, you should consider how it will fit with the window frames. Therefore, before starting work on decorating the ceiling, it is necessary to check the quality of sealing of each window.
Among the variety of finishing options, we can highlight the most popular ones, applicable for loggias and balconies:
- Coloring;
- MDF panels;
- Plastic panels;
- Suspended ceiling;
- Tensile structure.
Coloring
This option is most acceptable when the balcony or loggia is not glazed. In this case, paint is applied to the previously puttied or primed surface. For painting, façade paint is selected that is not susceptible to external factors and temperature changes. For the work, a regular paint roller is used, and painting is done in several layers.
MDF panels
A fairly environmentally friendly option for finishing the ceiling, and also allowing you to get interesting design solutions, thanks to the variety of panels offered. Thanks to the equipment of such panels with special tongue-and-groove fasteners, their installation is not too complicated, as is the installation of a frame structure. This finish is economical and durable, has good strength and wear resistance, and is easy to maintain. But it is worth considering that MDF panels do not tolerate high levels of humidity, which can cause them to swell, lose their appearance and become unsuitable for further use. Therefore, when finishing MDF, the room of the loggia or balcony must be reliably vapor barrier and sealed.
Plastic panels
Ceiling decoration plastic panels- the cheapest finishing method. They are made from safe polyvinyl chloride, they are easy to care for, are not afraid of high humidity, they are not afraid of condensation and mold and mildew do not form on them. In addition, the lack of exposure to temperature changes makes it possible to install them on both insulated and non-insulated balconies. Another advantage of this material is the ease of installation. The disadvantage of this material is the lack of ventilation, but provided that the windows are opened periodically, this is insignificant.
Suspended ceiling
Most often, plasterboard is used for suspended ceiling structures. It is worth considering that for a balcony or loggia it is better to choose moisture-resistant types and use them only in glazed rooms. In addition, its installation requires a massive frame structure, so you should first strengthen the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. The peculiarity of this finish is that after its installation, any decorative coating can be chosen (painting, wallpaper, decorative plaster, etc.).
Tensile structure
A suspended ceiling on a loggia can only be installed if it is glazed. Modern materials, used for this are able to withstand temperature changes and are not afraid of exposure to sunlight. Stretch ceilings are a practical, durable and easy-to-maintain finishing option. Installation of such a structure is carried out by specialists, and the price is not cheap. However, a variety of designs and colors are possible.
Conclusion
When choosing the option of finishing the ceiling on a balcony or loggia, do not forget that the main thing before choosing a finish is to properly seal and insulate the room, to ensure that there are no gaps between the windows and the ceiling. This will be the key to the durability and quality of the decorative coating.
If in Soviet times the balcony often served as a pantry, warehouse and refrigerator on winter time, then now every owner is trying to make it an additional room, a place to relax. This extension is clearly visible to the neighbors, so it acts as the “face” of the interior of the house. Although the ceiling here is small, it helps create an attractive overall picture.
Basic Requirements
The balcony is a kind of testing place for building materials. It is very hot here in summer, cold in winter, exposed to direct sunlight, gusts of wind, and rain. Before starting work, carefully consider all the details and strengthen weak points.
Eliminate weak points. Photo 1
Basic requirements for the design of the ceiling on a balcony or loggia:
- Waterproofing. This is the first thing a master should do. Even the most beautiful ceiling, if it constantly leaks or succumbs to moisture or condensation, will not last long. You'll just waste your money and soon you'll have to redo everything.
- Thermal insulation. To prevent the temperature there from dropping in winter, you will have to work on insulation. Without following basic energy saving rules, heating the balcony is not worth it. All the heat will go into the fresh frosty air outside. Such a balcony must be glazed.
- Decorative finishing. When both previous points have been met, you can begin finishing the room itself. It should be combined, even complement the interior of the apartment.
Here everything depends on the desires of the owners: they want neat painting or complex multi-level structures overhead.
Ceiling on the balcony. Photo 2 Waterproofing
IN apartment buildings a lot depends on the location of the balcony and neighbors. If it is located on the top floor or the neighbors do not particularly bother with its renovation, then you will have to put in a lot of effort to get the appropriate result.
Concrete slabs serve as a floor on one side and a ceiling on the other. They have a porous structure that absorbs huge amounts of moisture. Over time, cracks appear on the floors and tend to increase.
When moisture gets into concrete floors, it doesn’t go anywhere. Over time, it begins to negatively affect the walls: fungus and mold appear. The reinforcement located inside gradually succumbs to corrosion under the influence of erosion. If you do not attach importance to this, the house will soon begin to collapse.
First you need to clean the concrete slab from dust, dirt and old coating. Prime and apply a layer of elastic waterproofing. Next, a layer of repair composition is used, which restores reinforced concrete structures.
Waterproofing is carried out not only by work area, but also treat at least 20 cm of the wall. This way you can create a complete seal and prevent moisture from getting between the seams of the beams.
Insulation
To create a favorable microclimate on the balcony, simply glazing it will not help. After waterproofing, you can begin insulation. The balcony is insulated not in separate zones, but completely. After all, you can’t count on your neighbors to be conscientious.
Balcony insulation. Photo 3 Suitable for insulation:
- Sprayed polyurethane foam. A material that is great for balconies. It ideally attaches to any surface and creates a completely water- and vapor-proof seamless coating with good thermal insulation properties. Disadvantages: the need for special equipment, experience in performing the work. The price of such insulation is higher than using other materials.
- Minvata. A fairly common material, however, it has a number of disadvantages. Mineral wool is highly hygroscopic. It is able to absorb moisture even from the air. To prevent the material from getting wet and mold developing, moisture and steam should not get into the insulation. It is recommended to cover the mineral wool with a special barrier made of foil or film.
- Foam plastic. This material has a lot of disadvantages. When it breaks down, it releases toxic fumes. The structure of the material itself is quite fragile and brittle. But all the disadvantages are covered by a huge plus - polystyrene foam has an affordable price, and is sold in almost every store. Expanded polystyrene has a uniform structure, does not allow air or steam to pass through, does not absorb moisture, and is more durable than polystyrene foam. The material belongs to the category of low-flammable.
- Penofol (rolled foamed polyethylene. Its thickness varies: from 0.3 to 2 cm. 0.4-0.5 cm is suitable for insulating a balcony. The foam base is covered with a layer of foil on the outside, which helps retain heat in the room. The material is excellent for a balcony in all respects. The small thickness does not take up precious centimeters of the already small space. Penofol is often used in combination with other insulation materials. The foil layer has good vapor and water resistance and is an excellent addition to mineral wool.
Sprayed polyurethane foam. Photo 4 Types of ceilings and design solutions
There is a huge variety of materials on the ceiling products market that can turn the upper part of the balcony into a real masterpiece. The following types are distinguished:
- tension;
- rack and pinion;
- cassette;
- mounted;
- plasterboard ceiling.
Each type has its pros and cons.
Stretch ceilings (especially glossy ones) increase the height of the loggia. They do not react sharply to temperature changes and are not susceptible to fungi and direct sunlight.
It is easy to install, lasts a long time, looks great, which is why it is popular with people. The system consists of a frame, the slats themselves, which may differ from each other in structure, color, and size.
Cassette is one of the most durable. In cases of repair, only damaged cassettes can be replaced.
Suspended is suitable for those balconies where the height does not allow mounting massive structures. Easy to install, easy to maintain.
Plasterboard ceiling universal for any balconies. Ideally levels it, does not absorb moisture, and allows you to install lighting according to any request of the owners.
Many people use several types simultaneously to create original interiors.
Finishing the ceiling on the balcony
Only after high-quality protection of the extension from moisture and frost can you think about what kind of ceiling is best to make on your balcony. Before moving on to finishing, you need to carefully check everything again to ensure that there are no gaps between the glass unit and the wall, as well as between the joints of the plates, through which heat will escape and moisture will enter. Everything needs to be carefully calculated so that after installing the ceiling the window opens unhindered.
Painting
This is the cheapest and simplest finishing method. It is suitable even for unglazed and uninsulated balconies. Of course, it is necessary to waterproof and level the surface.
If the surface is relatively flat, then you can do without puttying by choosing textured paint. It will hide small defects and imperfections. You can use basic white paint or, using a color scheme, choose a tone that will fit into the interior.
Paneling
Even the owner of the apartment can handle the installation of such finishing. Finishing panels are:
- Made from natural wood.
- Made from MDF with wood imitation.
- Polymer PVC panels.
- Facade siding.
Any of these panels are easily attached to the frame, differ appearance and price.
- Many people, as many years ago, prefer natural materials such as wooden lining. However, you should think in advance that wood absorbs moisture well and is liked by insects. Treat it in advance with special products to avoid problems in the future;
- Lining and MDF look great, but the content of formaldehyde resins is noticeable, especially in hot weather. The panels are often equipped with a tongue-and-groove system, so installing them is not difficult. This material is quite bulky, so a reliable sheathing will be required;
- Plastic panels are a cheap and practical option. They are harmless to health, easy to clean, do not absorb moisture, and are not afraid of insects or mold. More expensive panels do not fade in the sun, they are not afraid of either heat or frost;
- Foamed polymer panels. They are presented in stores in a large assortment. They differ in shape, size, colors, patterns, relief. Attached to the ceiling using glue. Affordable cost and attractive appearance are the main advantages of the material. But he cannot boast of practicality. Dust can accumulate between the tiles, and temperature changes can cause it to completely fall off.
A variety of materials and options for their use allows you to choose a ceiling to suit any interior.
Suspended structures
Suspended structures. Photo 5 If the balcony is glazed, insulated and waterproofed, and also heated, you can use plasterboard to finish the ceiling. It quickly collapses under the influence of moisture and frost. The owners will literally have to redo everything in just a few years.
To decorate a balcony with plasterboard, you will have to make a strong frame from metal profiles. The finished structure can be painted, wallpapered or applied to it. decorative plaster.
Rack suspension system
Special slats are made of metal or plastic. They are easy to care for, they are resistant to external influences, and can be installed by a person without any special knowledge. The main thing is to attach the hanging traverses correctly. The space under the structure can be easily insulated.
Rack structures. Photo 6 Cassette ceiling
Almost everyone has seen this type of ceiling. It consists of a suspension system and slabs. Nowadays companies produce panels that differ not only in color, material, but also in shape. This design allows you to hide all the wiring and install any lamps.
All cassette ceilings are divided into:
- Mineral.
- Metal.
The first type is cheaper and has a variety of colors. The second is more expensive, made of aluminum and galvanized steel.
Cassette structures are resistant to moisture and have long term services, functional, aesthetic. Aluminum cassettes are better suited for balconies, as they do not weigh down the extension itself.
Cassette ceiling. Photo 7 Tensile structures
Many will think this is an unjustified luxury. On completely renovated balconies with heating, it is quite possible to use this finishing method. Especially if they made another room from the extension. The film can withstand a fairly wide range of temperatures (from frost in winter to heat in summer). They are practical, durable and very easy to care for.
Disadvantages include cost and the need for special equipment, knowledge, and skills.
In pursuit of beautiful view, hydro- and thermal insulation, many people forget that they can overdo it and achieve the opposite effect - the “sauna” effect. To prevent condensation from building up in the room, consider ventilation and adequate ventilation.
October 22, 2016Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, the renovation of an apartment or house was done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.
In this material I will describe in detail how and with what to decorate the ceiling on the balcony. Moreover, you will learn not just about materials and methods of fastening them, but with a specific connection to one or another type of ceiling that you may have. And in addition to what has been said, you can see the information clearly in the video in this article.
Finishing the balcony ceiling
2 possible types of ceilings
When finishing, and, in general, when designing a structure, it should be taken into account that the ceiling on the balcony can be of two types and it depends on the floor.
Type 1 - top floor
If you raise your head up and look at the balconies, then in 90% of cases you will see that the project provides for a canopy made of asbestos-cement or plastic slate:
- only in 10% of cases a solid flat slab will serve as a protective canopy;
- the finishing of the ceiling on the balcony largely depends on this, since this is a suspended structure, therefore, the method of installing the sheathing, or rather, its fastening, will radically change;
- that is, the absence of a concrete slab on top requires the manufacture of a roof, as well as a different method of installing profiles on the sheathing;
- in addition, the presence of a slab on top does not always indicate that it will be attached to it when glazing the balcony - in some cases, a pitched roof is installed under reinforced concrete products (what to cover is up to you, but most often this is done with corrugated sheet metal).
Type 2 – intermediate floors
If you do not glaze the balcony, which is located on the lower or intermediate floor, then there will definitely be a concrete slab on top:
- if your structure is without extension, then the upper part is usually attached to reinforced concrete products, therefore, the ceiling on the balcony, or rather the sheathing, will be fixed to the same base;
- Of course, this option is the most convenient.
Note. It should be noted that it is much more convenient to insulate the ceiling in the second case, when there is a reinforced concrete slab on top. However, the finishing options remain identical in either case.
Finishing materials
In most cases suspended ceiling on the balcony is made from materials such as:
- PVC panels (plastic);
- MDF panels;
- wooden lining;
- slatted panels;
- drywall (occasionally).
The whole point is that for all of the above facing materials, the lathing is made of the same design (there are some differences only for slatted panels). Therefore, it is not so difficult to choose what to make the ceiling on the balcony from.
But again, you will have to choose the material for mounting the frame, and this could be:
- wooden blocks or slats;
- galvanized CD profile;
- stringers (for rack and pinion construction).
Arrangement of sheathing under the roof
If the balcony has a roof, then no matter what and how to finish the ceiling, you will need to attach a block to the wall of the building, which should be on the upper level window frame. That is, this will be the inner part of the perimeter of the sheathing and this profile is attached to the wall with plastic dowels and screws (just don’t use impact ones).
For small balconies, where the slab extension is no more than 70-80 cm along the length of the frame, there are only side lintels. The middle one is installed only for drywall, and for the rest of the cladding there is simply no need for this, since even with an offset of 80 cm, the length of the panel will be no more than 75 cm.
Note. If you want to install recessed spotlights, then even with a small offset (no more than 70 cm), an intermediate block or rail is installed. Otherwise, the lighting fixtures will pull back on the panels and may require repairs.
On extended balconies, intermediate slats on the frame are necessary, since the offset in such cases reaches 120-149 = 0 cm, and sometimes even one and a half meters or more. But in such cases, as a rule, galvanized CD profiles are practically not used, since wooden ones are much more convenient to install here.
If necessary, the number of intermediate jumpers can be increased, for example, as in the photo above.
Arrangement of sheathing under the reinforced concrete slab
We continue to consider the topic of how to make a ceiling on a balcony, and now we’ll talk about structures that are attached to the top reinforced concrete slab. If the reinforced concrete products are positioned tolerably horizontally (in some cases the differences between the edges reach 5 cm), then the slats can be mounted without hangers on screws with dowels, as was actually done in the photo above.
But while doing this, you should think about whether you need to insulate the ceiling. And if there is a closed balcony on top or you will not put insulation on the walls, then this is not necessary.
In cases where the slab at the top is installed unevenly or when the balcony is insulated, this also applies to the ceiling, therefore a ceiling cavity is needed to install the insulation. Therefore, metal or wooden profiles are mounted on hangers, as is done in the photo above.
Finishing work
Before we talk about how to sheathe, we will figure out how to install thermal insulation. I will say right away that for this it is best to use polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam.
In the top photo you can see how the foam is fixed between the two slats due to its tight fit to them. I assure you that no other fixation is needed here due to the small offset (less than 80 cm).
But you can see above how to insulate the top slab with a larger offset - there is extruded polystyrene foam with penofol placed under it, secured using dowel mushrooms.
Also, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool can be installed under the profiles - the insulation is simply pinned onto the hangers.
If there is a roof on the balcony, then it is much easier and more convenient to insulate it rather than the ceiling. In addition, the insulation will be of more use there - it will cut off the cold coming from the roofing iron.
Now all that remains is the ceiling lining, and at the top you can see how to cover it with plastic panels - it is best to fasten them not with a stapler, but with self-tapping screws. Moreover, if the sheathing is made of metal profiles.
MDF panels and wooden lining are fixed to the profiles using clamps, which in turn are also screwed with wood or metal screws.
If you are concerned about the question of how to paint wooden lining, then in my humble opinion, it is better to leave the natural color and structure of the wood. Therefore, I would recommend a clear varnish.
Note. If you need protection from condensation on the balcony, there are only two options - installing ventilation on one of the walls or micro-ventilation mode on the windows. Personally, I prefer the second option.
Conclusion
Making your own ceiling on a balcony after it has been sheathed from the outside is quite simple - it is much more difficult to make a general frame for the entire finish. If you have any suggestions, tips, or questions, leave a comment below or join the discussion on the forum!
The presence of a balcony for a thrifty and skillful apartment owner is always a significant advantage, since with the right approach it is possible to transform this extension into a completely useful, and sometimes even almost full-fledged additional room. Of course, all this requires certain construction, insulation and
For any room, the ceiling is a kind of “face”, which largely determines the overall impression of the created interior. The balcony in this case is no exception. Even if the ceiling, as a rule, is small in area, it requires close attention, especially since in this room the specific features of its structure must often be taken into account.
So, let's try to figure it out - what to make the ceiling on the balcony from so that it looks neat and beautiful, and at the same time, if necessary, helps maintain the intended comfortable microclimate in the room.
Basic requirements for the design of a balcony ceiling
The ceiling on an ordinary balcony does not have a large area, and the complex of work on its arrangement and finishing, as a rule, will not be overly labor-intensive. However, it must fully meet certain requirements.
- If we mean not the finishing itself, but the covering of the ceiling, then reliable waterproofing always comes to the fore - leaks from above and capillary spread of moisture through the reinforced concrete slab must be completely eliminated. Any decoration, no matter how beautiful it may be, will be a waste of money if this condition is not met.
- If the balcony is planned to be used as a useful area throughout the year, then the ceiling must receive effective thermal insulation. Warm air always rises, so if the balcony slab remains cold, this will lead to completely unjustified heat loss (in any building, it is through ceilings that do not have thermal insulation that the most “massive” leakage of thermal energy is observed). It is completely pointless to organize any heating system without exception on such a balcony - money for energy resources will be wasted.
At the same time, there is no point in spending money on creating an insulating layer if there is none. But waterproofing requirements are mandatory for any option.
- If the two above conditions are met, then the third requirement remains - this is the decorative finish of the balcony ceiling, which must be in full harmony with the overall interior of this room being created.
Here, of course, everything is at the discretion of the owners. There are a lot various options– from “Spartan” coloring to the creation of complex hanging structures. More on all this below, in order.
The balcony room is not so large that it is possible to somehow clearly separate the stages of preparation, insulation and finishing of all its surfaces - ceiling, walls and floor. Therefore, all ceiling work, as a rule, is carried out in parallel with other operations, since they are often very closely intertwined with each other.
Waterproofing balcony ceiling
We can consider that the owner of the apartment is very lucky if there is exactly the same balcony above, but also a well-kept one. In this case, the task of waterproofing, although not completely removed, is still extremely simplified.
The situation is somewhat more complicated if the balcony on top is open to precipitation. Here a lot will depend on the thriftiness and conscientiousness of the owner of the upper apartment. An open balcony may well be well-waterproofed, have a drain for water falling on it, and in this case the work will also not be very complicated, although, of course, for greater insurance, it is advisable to carry out a full set of waterproofing or at least control the quality of its early execution. Of course, this requires good contact with the upper neighbor - after all, this is also very important for him, and dividing the costs between two would be a completely reasonable solution.
But it also happens that its owner absolutely “doesn’t give a damn” about the upper balcony, and not only does he not want to spend money on any kind of waterproofing work, but he is also not going to allow anyone onto his territory. Well, all that remains is to wish for restraint and tact - perhaps it will still be possible to convince the obstinate person. If not, then it is necessary to try to influence the official way, through the management company or other organizations, since, according to by and large, a leaking balcony slab is also a safety issue.
And this statement is not an exaggeration at all. Let's take a look at how moisture affects an unprotected balcony ceiling.
If the slab does not have external waterproofing, then moisture will certainly penetrate into the small pores and cracks that exist on any concrete surface. At first, this may be completely unnoticeable, but over time, such penetration begins to cause erosion processes, which are especially intensified at subzero temperatures, when frozen water begins to expand these cavities, resulting in the formation of cracks, cavities, and areas of concrete crumbling over time (item 1) .
Concrete itself is a porous structure, and moisture, penetrating through the thickness of the slab, makes its way down, forming leakage paths, which after some time turn into visible cracks on the lower surface (item 2).
The corners where the slab meets the vertical main wall of the building are extremely vulnerable. If waterproofing is not provided here or has already served its purpose, then these places become an area of constant dampness, and the moisture spreads by capillary action deep into the walls, often appearing in the interior of the apartment (item 3).
A certain danger also lies at the end of the slabs, where constant changes in humidity and temperature plus the capillary spread of moisture also lead to erosive processes, accompanied by gradual coloring and shedding of concrete (item 4).
Erosion of concrete is accompanied by corrosion of the reinforcement structure, and the slab slowly but surely loses its load-bearing capacity, becoming unreliable and turning into a source of danger for people living in the house.
As a result, you have to think not about landscaping the balcony, but about carrying out an extremely expensive and complex overhaul of it, with the obligatory involvement of specialists.
Major repairs of the balcony - it’s better not to let this happen!
However, sometimes the situation is such that there is simply no other choice. Read what needs to be done to organize a capital investment in a special publication on our portal.
So, what does it mean to really perform high-quality waterproofing of an open balcony slab. There are many compounds on sale for such operations, foreign and domestic production. We can recommend the products of the St. Petersburg company Lakhta, whose product range allows you to perform all the necessary actions.
First of all, the surface of the slab on both sides must be cleaned - all weak areas, crumbling areas, and oil stains are removed. Crevices and cavities must be cut in depth and width by at least 5 mm. Surfaces are thoroughly dust-free.
The cut defects (item 1) are filled tightly, without leaving even the slightest voids, with a special basic repair compound, diluted according to the instructions attached to it. (The numbering on the repair diagram and on the illustration with waterproofing compounds is intentionally the same).
Along the entire line of junction of the slab with the vertical wall, above and below, a so-called repair key is made of elastic waterproofing (item 2). Such a composition can be one-component, ready-to-use, or two-component, requiring dilution according to the instructions immediately before use. This “lock” must extend at least 100 mm vertically and horizontally onto the wall and onto the slab.
After the repair “patches” and waterproofing dowel have hardened, the entire surface of the slab is thickly coated with a thin-layer repair compound, which serves to restore reinforced concrete surfaces (item 3). At the same time, you should never lose sight of the outer end part of the slab, since it, no less than other areas, needs high-quality protection from moisture.
It is advisable to apply the waterproofing coating not only on the surface of the slab, but also to extend onto the walls, 200÷230 mm, to obtain a total waterproofed surface. After drying, it will be ready for any further finishing.
ceiling waterproofing
If there is a glazed and insulated balcony on top, then it would seem that the moisture has nowhere to come from, and you don’t have to do anything. However, it would be wise to play it safe and treat the ceiling surface with special impregnating waterproofing compounds (we can recommend Penetron, GidroHit, Skrepa and the like). They are applied to the damp surface of concrete or even plaster. Penetrating into pores and microcracks, such compounds crystallize, completely filling even the most microscopic paths of possible moisture penetration, providing high-quality waterproofing. At the same time, we should not forget about the end part of the balcony pita - it is often left unprocessed, which can significantly reduce the overall effect of the work done.
A special case is when the apartment is located on the top floor, and there is simply a reinforced concrete canopy on top of the balcony. With this option, it is best not to limit yourself to surface repairs and applying a coating composition, but to perform waterproofing from roll materials - high-quality roofing felt or special. Such events involve working at heights, so it is better not to undertake them yourself - entrust the matter to specialists.
Such waterproofing of the canopy on top does not relieve the owner of the balcony from the need to treat the slab with coating penetrating insulation from below.
It often happens that the balcony on the top floor has no roof at all. There is nothing to do - if you want to get a fully glazed and insulated room, you will have to mount a canopy, cover it with roofing material (most often corrugated sheeting is used for this), and place an under-roof membrane waterproofing.
Naturally, with this approach, attention should be paid special attention the junction of the roof with a vertical wall. And the frame structure itself can serve not only for lining the selected type of decorative ceiling, but also for placing a thermal insulation layer in it.
Only after high-quality waterproofing of the balcony ceiling slab is guaranteed, can you proceed to further work. The next step is insulating the ceiling.
Ceiling insulation on the balcony
It will be impossible to create and maintain a normal microclimate on a glazed balcony if high-quality insulation of all its surfaces is not carried out. The ceiling is no exception in this matter.
You should not place any hope that the owner of the adjacent upper balcony will effectively insulate his floor - this will not help you in any way. Rather, he fenced off his property from the cold balcony slab, which remains open on three end sides. If the insulation he performed raised the temperature of the ceiling by at least a couple of degrees, this is very little consolation for the lower balcony, and will not seriously affect the general atmosphere in this room. Insulation is necessary!
Thermal insulation of the flow is carried out in conjunction with a similar operation on all other surfaces of the balcony, otherwise it simply does not make sense. What materials can be used for this:
- Polystyrene group insulation materials. This includes the familiar white foam and a more modern and reliable modification - extruded polystyrene foam. Both of these materials have approximately equal thermal insulation characteristics, however, they differ quite seriously in performance qualities.
- Sprayed polyurethane foam will be an excellent insulation for the ceiling (and for all other surfaces) on the balcony. Possessing excellent adhesion to almost any surface, it creates a seamless, completely vapor- and waterproof coating, and its thermal insulation qualities significantly exceed those of all other materials discussed above.
The only disadvantages of this material include the technological difficulties of its application - it requires special equipment, the necessary component compositions and, of course, experience in performing such work. This also predetermines the rather high price of such balcony insulation.
Polyurethane foam - advantages and disadvantages
The scope of application of sprayed insulation is constantly expanding. – read in a separate article on our portal.
- Another insulation stands somewhat apart - this is rolled polyethylene foam with a foil coating (the most common brand is penofol).
This material is produced in a fairly wide range of thicknesses, from 3 to 20 mm, but usually when insulating balconies, sheets with a thickness of 4–5 mm are used. Foamed polyethylene itself has approximately the same thermal conductivity as expanded polystyrene. However, the foil layer facing the room is able to effectively reflect thermal radiation, preventing its absorption by massive building structures, and the overall effectiveness of the thermal insulation system increases sharply. This is especially important in a balcony setting, since the size of the room often does not allow for the placement of full-fledged thick layers of insulation.
basalt wool
Typically, penofol is used as a second, inner layer of thermal insulation, using it in combination with other insulation materials. But its function is not limited to this. The foil layer is an excellent vapor barrier, and if you create a continuous coating and seal the joints, then the path for water vapor into the thickness of the insulating material will be reliably closed. This is especially important when using mineral wool as the main thermal insulation.
Now it makes sense to talk about the optimal thickness of insulation. If the balcony is planned to be used as a full-fledged room, that is, one or another heating system will be created on it, then the thermal resistance indicators of the enclosing structures and ceilings must correspond to the standardized values established for the given region, taking into account its climatic characteristics. Hence, knowing the tabulated values of thermal conductivity coefficients various materials and the thickness of the layers in the ceiling (wall) structure, it is easy to determine the required thickness of the insulating layer.
The normalized value of heat transfer resistance can be found using the diagram map provided.
Please note that if the calculation is carried out for a flow, then the “blue” value is selected - for floors. For walls, accordingly, the “purple” value is taken.
We will not give a formula with its description - it’s better to immediately suggest using a convenient calculator that will help calculate the optimal insulation for a balcony.
