How to change slopes on plastic windows. How to install slopes on plastic windows with your own hands: step by step instructions, video. What are the slopes for PVC windows

Today, many construction companies are moving to the use of new technologies and new standards. In all new buildings, only plastic windows are installed, windows are also changed in all houses. It is worth knowing that after the windows are installed, you have to make slopes. They can be made from any material, but drywall and plastic are the most commonly used.

Foam is not thermal insulation, it must also be used Additional materials, they will be able to protect the windows from cooling.

Types of slopes for windows

The most commonly used plaster slopes, plasterboard and plastic.

Plaster slopes were popular in the old days. In fact, they have more disadvantages than advantages. First of all, they can lose their color, if the house sags, then the plaster will definitely move away from the wall. Such slopes are quite laborious, because their installation takes several days.

The plaster is applied in several layers, and each layer dries for a rather long time. Then the layers are primed and painted. In addition, such slopes do not provide protection from temperature changes, the windows will sweat.

slopes plasterboard are more durable, they have excellent thermal insulation, but at the same time they are afraid of moisture, that is, they are best installed in rooms where thermal insulation is provided. However, to install this option, a good specialist is required, besides, then priming and painting are still required.

The most universal is considered plastic slopes. They are very practical, do not fade and care for them is quite easy. Plastic is durable and can last more than fifteen years. Such plastic will be in perfect harmony with the window, if you choose the right shade. Plastic is quite easy to mount, if you study the technology itself, then there is always the opportunity to do this work yourself.

As an option, plastic sandwich panels are often used. They are matched to the frame and can be matte or glossy.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels

The profile for fastening slopes is made of sandwich panels whose thickness is not more than 1 cm. The profile is attached to the opening, and any options can be used, most often fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowels. In some versions, fastening with galvanized iron brackets with a thickness of not more than 1 mm is used. The bracket is attached to the wall and to the slope with foam. The brackets are connected to each other by means of self-tapping screws.

If it is supposed to design the window with integral PVC or drywall, then you can give it any shape. Integral PVC is able to bend at any angle, while special cuts are made. The incisions are fixed with a special adhesive. In fact, the installation is done in the same way as the installation of sandwich panels, using self-tapping screws, dowels and a profile.

Sandwich panels are fastened in a certain sequence:

• along the perimeter of the entire opening, guides are attached using self-tapping screws of the appropriate size,
• holes in the wall for guides are made using a drill or puncher. It should be ensured that they are attached completely evenly, it is better to control the process with a level,



• the plastic panel should be adjusted in size so that it clearly fits into the guides,
• excess panels are cut off according to the depth of the slope and the empty spaces are filled with sealant and sealed with special masking tape until completely dry,



• after the sealant dries, decorative plastic corners are installed.

Useful. What are the best blinds for your home? Let's try to break it down together:

Tools and materials

To install conventional plastic slopes, the following materials and tools are required:

• six-meter strip of plastic 8 mm thick,
• start line,
• strip F-ka, that is, a strip of plastic of a special shape,



• rail 15 mm thick,
• level,
• staples and stapler
• white silicone,



• perforator,
• mineral wool,
• metal scissors,
• self-tapping screws.

Useful. During operation plastic windows may need to be adjusted - more on that.

Stages of installation of slopes

Installation is carried out in several stages. Initially, wooden slats are recruited, the main thing is that the lights do not protrude. The slats are attached to the wall with a perforator. For leveling, you can use wooden blocks. At the same time, ideality at the joints is not so necessary.



A starting strip is nailed along the edge of the plastic window. It is important that a strip of plastic will be attached to the groove of the starting strip. If you didn’t have wallpaper pasted over, then you can tear off the film and glue it, because the dirty work will be finished. Before stuffing the F-ki, it is important to cut it correctly.



After the strip is stuffed, an overlap will remain, which is removed with metal scissors. It is attached with a stapler to a wooden rail. On the last step plastic is attached and the wall is immediately insulated.



The plastic is attached, and cotton wool is put in front of it, everything will turn out tightly and beautifully. If even and beautiful corners do not work out, then they can always be rubbed with white silicone.

A beautiful and durable slope not only decorates the window, but also protects the room from heat loss. New construction and Decoration Materials allow you to speed up the process of installation slopes. In our article, we will tell and show in the photo how the installation of window slopes is done, and how much you can save if you do the work yourself.

With the advent of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) windows and metal-plastic profiles in construction, the quality of thermal insulation has increased several times. Windows do not change their shape under the influence of low and high temperatures, do not dry out to cracks and do not jam. Strong anchors and mounting synthetic foam provide fast and high-quality isolation of the room from the external environment. The installation of slopes is the decorative wall decoration in the window opening, which completes the window installation process.

• Plastering window slopes considered a classic option in brick and concrete houses. After covering with a high-quality plaster mortar in several layers, the surface can be painted or wallpapered. The labor-intensive process takes more than one day of work of a professional plasterer. While one layer dries, it will take 5 - 6 hours. The disadvantages of plaster are revealed over time. Due to temperature changes, a crack appears at the point of contact between the window plastic and the solution, which then must be filled with sealant so that there is no draft. A professionally made slope will last for decades, but only a master will do it for the appropriate fee.
• Drywall slopes it is much easier to mount, but this material has a significant drawback: it becomes damp at the slightest humidity. In the off-season, during the rainy season, the slope runs the risk of cracking and warping when it swells. Although the use of moisture-proof KNAUF sheets will solve this problem. The method of attaching sheets to walls does not differ from more modern plastic slopes, but to seal the joints to the window body and to the general surface of the wall, the builder will have to be creative due to the lack of typical corners - flashings.
• Plastic slopes appeared together with the technology of plastic windows. PVC panels are made to cover any surface. Eco-friendly plastic does not emit harmful substances, does not burn, does not absorb moisture and is easy to clean with water and household chemicals. It can have any plasticity depending on the fillers. Plastic slopes for windows are made lightweight, using cellular technology. Plastic is perfectly painted, so there are a huge number of color options and imitations for different materials on sale. Corrugated panels are available.

Installation of slopes made of plastic

1. Preparation of the slope surface

Before proceeding with the installation of the slope, it is necessary to wait at least a day after installing the window unit. The surface of the wall must be cleaned of all protrusions, remove dust with a wet cloth, and allow to dry. It is advisable to treat the surface with some means to improve adhesion (silicate glue solution, for example).

Mounting foam protruding from the space between the wall and window frame, you need to cut it with a sharp mounting knife so that it does not interfere with subsequently attaching the starting profile to the frame. We recommend that the surface of the foam be treated with a sealant to prevent vapors from entering the pores.

If you decide to make a slope without using the starting profile, make a groove in the foam along the contour of the window frame to a depth of about 1 cm to insert the panel into it. This will require a special U-shaped knife, which can be made from a sharply sharpened steel strip. You will get a more aesthetic connection than in profile.

2. Installation of the starting profile

The starting profile is sold either three meters or six meters. Take the second, let it stay better, but you don’t have to dock in the middle of the window. There is an inclined profile "start - clip", it is designed for slopes made at an angle. For straight slopes, it is better to choose the usual L - shaped profile. The width is selected according to the thickness of the panels.

To install a profile, you will need:

• roulette,
• pencil,
• fine-toothed saw for plastic,
• screwdriver with a nozzle - a screwdriver and
• self-tapping screws - "bugs", 15 - 20 mm with a tip - a drill.

The horizontal top profile is installed first. It can be made from wall to wall and screwed with screws exactly along the edge of the frame in increments of 20 - 25 cm. With the accuracy with which windows are installed, a level may not be needed. Vertical side profiles will require more precision, so use a tape measure. The gap can be made below, at the windowsill, and the upper joint can be made as even as possible. Screw with the same distance between the screws, stepping back from the joints 4 - 5 cm.

Installation of the start profile

3. Lathing along the slope wall

Wooden slats 20x40 mm, screwed to the walls of the slopes, after 40-50 cm and next to the panel joints, will give the necessary rigidity to the structure. Before installation, we recommend treating the material with protection against decay and insects and drying it. In the walls for each rail, two holes are required, the rails are attached to them on a dowel - nails. When installing the crate, the ends of the rails should not reach the edge of the wall and panel, because it will take a couple of centimeters to fix the F-shaped profile - the cover.

Align the slats vertically and horizontally with pads. You can install the crate vertically, but then it will be more difficult to fill the cavity with heaters.

4. Installation of panels on slopes

You can buy special panels for slopes (honeycomb structure) or make them from sandwich panels. The thickness of the sandwich panels is from 10 mm, like the sloping ones, but they seem warmer due to the polystyrene filler. Sold in the form of sheets 3000x1500 or 3000x2000 mm.

Before installing the panels, decide what material you are using to insulate the slopes. If mounting foam, then about it later. If you decide to use mineral wool, we recommend buying several mats. When installing the panels, cut the space between the panel and the wall with cut-to-size plates.

The top sheet is installed first. Cut the panel along the length of the starting profile (or, if not, enough to reach the walls), insert it into the starting profile and screw it to the lathing battens with short self-tapping screws with flat countersunk heads. PVC is plastic, so screw in the screws until the heads are sunk. If you do not want to mount the panel on self-tapping screws, glue the panel to the wall with adhesive tape during installation.

The side panels are cut to length from the sill to the top sheet. Cutting plastic requires a sharp mounting or large clerical knife with a short blade. PVC cuts perfectly in any direction, so making a clean cut is easy. We recommend using a metal strip like a long ruler as a cutting guide.

Insert the panels into the starting profile, check the connection to the window sill and the top panel, insert the insulation into the opening and fix it with self-tapping screws along the outer edge. If the joints are not completely tight, putty with liquid plastic (PVC dissolved in acetone). It quickly hardens in air, "welding" the panels to each other.

If you decide to insulate the slopes with the help of mounting foam, we warn you in advance that the foam can expand greatly. For reliability, the panels must be spring-loaded with reliable spacers for the duration of the foam solidification. Before filling the space with foam, spray the wall with water from a household sprayer. The foam will expand less and adhere better to surfaces.

High expansion foams can extrude the panel, so work very carefully or look for low expansion foam. These are high-quality foams, produced "under the gun". On the labels, the manufacturer indicates the expansion coefficient. Everyone knows the Macroflex brand, it is a popular brand with good characteristics. The competition among the pros is the Titan O2 foam, which does not differ in price. The main destroyer of polyurethane foam is ultraviolet light, so all connections from sunlight must be insulated with insulation.

5. Installation of the finishing slope profile

After installing the panels, it remains to close the ends of the panels with a finishing profile (F-shaped). A three-meter profile is for sale with a price per linear meter. The price depends on the width of the shelves.

First, the upper profile is measured with an accuracy of 1 - 2 mm, the upper shelf remains wider, with the calculation of sawing “at an angle”. With light strokes of the palm, the profile is fixed on the panel along the entire length. Then cut the side profiles to size with the same tolerance. For a better joint, cut the inner shelves of the profile with a fine-toothed saw at an angle of 45 - 50º. The upper wide shelves on the wall overlap at the junction of each other. Place a profile lining under them so as not to cut the wall, and carefully saw off at a 45º cross. Get a great joint. On the second side profile, do the same.

When fixing the finishing profile on the sandwich panels, it is not necessary to glue it, but if you use a regular corner, then purchase the “liquid nails” glue. Glue the corner to both the panel and the wall.

The economic effect of installing slopes with your own hands

Having considered the proposals of several companies involved in the installation of PVC windows and metal-plastic profiles, we deduced the average cost of turnkey work. The price depends on the width of the slope and ranges from 700 to 1200 rubles per meter of slope length. In this case, the sloped wall width is from 25 to 50 cm. That is, a slope for one standard window of 110x170 cm will cost at least 2,750 rubles. Multiply by the number of windows.

Let's calculate how much the tools and materials needed to install the slope yourself will cost. Prices will be based on good quality.

If you use a slope panel with a honeycomb structure, its price per linear meter is 100 rubles. Sandwich - the panel is sold in sheets of 1500x3000 mm at a price of 1000 rubles per piece. One sheet is enough for at least two windows.

Profiles are sold in three-meter whips. One window will require 4 meters. So, we will consider with the calculation of losses. The starting profile is simpler in form, its price per linear meter is 25 - 30 rubles. The finishing profile is sold at a price of 35 - 60 rubles, depending on the width of the shelves.

For thermal insulation, one polyurethane foam is required. If we assume that from one bottle the output is from 25 to 50 dm3 of foam, then it will be enough for two or three windows. It costs 230 - 270 rubles, depending on the brand. "Titan" is cheaper than "Macroflex", but harder to find.

Silicone - acrylic sealant costs 100 - 130 rubles. A lot of it is not required, but without it, isolation will be worse.

Self-tapping screws and dowels - nails are sold individually or in dozens, so we will estimate at 50 rubles per window. Take chrome-plated fasteners.
How much the slats cost, the local building materials store will tell you. But spend no more than 50 rubles on a window, where the following issues are considered: how to make a crate with your own hands, a wooden crate for siding. At the end of the article you can see video: "Instruction for installation of siding."

Salute, readers!

I see that my tips are useful and many try them in practice. This is very pleasing!

One of the regular readers wrote a letter asking him to talk about how to make slopes on installed windows to which I dedicate this post.

He writes that he planned repairs, but did not calculate that prices would rise this way.

The budget is not rubber, so I started doing some of the work myself. Slopes are just the kind of finish that a professional can do.

Save on windows and read the instructions for action!

Often, when installing plastic windows in an apartment, especially if all existing windows are installed or replaced immediately, you have to pay a tidy sum.

But not many people know that you can save a lot without losing quality, and perhaps even improving it by performing some operations yourself.

In particular, if you decide to make slopes for plastic windows yourself, you will save at least 20% of the order value, or even more.

The procedure is not at all complicated and any economic person who knows how to handle a minimum set of household tools can cope with it.

What you need to make slopes on plastic windows

So let's move on to detailed instructions how to make slopes on plastic windows with your own hands. Initially, it would make sense to stock up on the necessary tool, namely:

1. Building level,
2. Perforator,
3. construction stapler,
4. A knife or scissors, or a grinder, or a hacksaw with a fine tooth for cutting plastic.

After making sure that the above tool is available, you can proceed with the purchase necessary materials:

1. We need a plastic panel, the length of which is calculated by adding the lengths of the side and top sides of the slope.
2. Starting and so-called F-band (plastic profile resembling the letter F), the same length as the plastic panel.
3. F profile we will nail to a 10-15 mm wooden block fixed on the side and top sides of the slopes.
4. insulation for slopes, mineral wool is usually used.
5. Dowel nails for attaching wooden bars and self-tapping screws for attaching the starting profile to the window profile.
6. White or other silicone identical to the color of the plastic.

The first step is to fix the wooden bars around the perimeter of the opening, more precisely on all sides where the slopes will be installed.

To do this, it is necessary to measure and cut the bars of the required length, and then drill holes in them for self-tapping screws.

To do this, the bar is set using the building level, it is necessary that it be strictly vertical (horizontal for the upper slope), when viewed in the direction of the window and not protrude beyond the wall, when viewed in the other direction.

After setting, we mark and drill holes, hammer plugs of dowels into them and fasten the bar, checking once again the verticality (horizontality) in terms of level.

After that, you can proceed to fastening to the F-shaped bar. To do this, you need to cut it to size using a grinder, knife or other tool you have available.

First of all, we will cut out profile segments for side slopes, for this we try to make one end of the segment that will stand on the windowsill perfectly even, you can use a miter box for this.

As for the length of the segment, it is calculated as follows, the length of the slope is measured, then the width of the profile itself is added, more precisely of that part of it that will veneer the slope, after that we add another 20-30 mm margin and cut off.

Useful advice!

Before it will be possible to make slopes on plastic windows, it is necessary to install a starting profile.

Next, it is necessary to accurately measure a distance equal to the length of the slope from that part of the profile that will stand on the windowsill, and cut off the strips intended for winding the profile from the remaining part (two parallel strips on the profile).

After that, we nail the strip to the bar with a stapler. We cut out the upper strip by measuring the length of the slope and adding the width of the profile on both sides and a margin of 20-30 mm for each side. We also attach it with brackets.

After that, it is possible to cut the strips at an angle of 45 degrees at the intersection of the side and upper strips of the profile, so that an even joint is formed.

The last preparatory operation, before it will be possible to make slopes on plastic windows, is the installation of the starting profile. It is installed by fastening with self-tapping screws to the window profile.

To do this, you need to make markup. This is done by drawing a vertical (horizontal for the upper slope) line on the profile, it is applied according to the desired angle of the slope.

Then a strip is set along the line and attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. At the joints, it is necessary to cut the profile in such a way that there are no obstacles for inserting plastic having a length of a greater length of the profile into it.

After that, panels of the required size are cut and installed in the starting and F-shaped profiles, the space between which is preliminarily laid with insulation.

After you have managed to make slopes for plastic windows, you need to coat all the joints of profiles and panels with silicone, this will not only give the structure tightness, but also give the seams and joints a more attractive look.

source: repairim-sami.ru

A variety of modern building materials allows you to quickly and efficiently perform any work related to the construction of structures, as well as the finishing and repair of finished real estate objects.

Today, more and more people prefer metal-plastic structures (windows, balconies, terraces) due to their high technical and economic characteristics and due to their impeccable appearance.

In addition, such designs significantly improve the performance of the walls of the house.

List of preparatory works

Measurement, installation and adjustment of plastic windows are carried out by specialized teams, which is the key to the correct implementation of all technological measures and entitles the customer to warranty service.

But such operations as the installation of slopes of plastic windows, if desired, can be performed on their own.

Slopes are of various types, and may differ in color, shape, materials from which they are made.

The most common materials used for the production of slopes are the following:

• drywall;
• plastic, mdf, sandwich panel;
• cement mortar;
• wood.

Also, a significant advantage of such slopes is their low cost, durability, high speed of execution. installation work(3-4 hours), easy maintenance, the ability to choose any color segment.

Note!

A significant advantage of plastic slopes is low cost, durability, high speed of installation work, ease of maintenance, and the ability to choose colors.

So, after the metal-plastic window has been installed and at least 36 hours have passed (the period of complete solidification of the mounting foam), you can install the window slopes.

First you need to decide on the list of necessary materials and tools required for such work.

Firstly, it is desirable to purchase plastic, and it is best to give preference to high-quality and solid products.

The initial cost savings when buying a cheap product can turn into additional costs associated with the repair of damaged items.

The thickness of the plastic should not be less than 8 millimeters, and the lengths of the panels should be equal to the given dimensions of the opening in height and width. Accordingly, the depth of the slope should not be greater than the width of the plastic panel.

Secondly, there will be a need for Construction Materials: starting strip, F - shaped profile, mounting foam, cement mortar, silicone, small self-tapping screws (bugs), adhesive tape, paper clips, insulation.

From the tool you need to have a hammer, a drill with a bat for self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a gun for silicone and polyurethane foam, a trowel, a spatula, a tape measure, and rags.

When all the necessary attributes are prepared, you can proceed to the procedure for finishing the slopes of plastic windows.

The first step is to remove the shipping tape from the profile of the metal-plastic window and seal it cement mortar cracks from the side of the street.

This procedure allows you to seal the outer assembly seam and hide the foam from direct sunlight, which have a destructive effect on this material.

In principle, any outdoor mortar can be used as a mortar, be it putty or a special cement-based mortar. The outer slopes of the windows can later be coated with any dye.

After that, you can proceed to the internal work.

The starting strip is taken and cut to fit the window (height, width, height), and then drilled with self-tapping screws to the perimeter profile. This strip will be the base for the plastic panel.

Then you need to prepare directly the panels for the slopes.

This is done in the following way. First, the top panel is made, for this, plastic is cut out according to the dimensions of the upper part of the opening and installed in the grooves of the starting strip, and then two side panels are made in the same way.

The resulting frame must be designed in such a way that the following conditions are met:

• between the plastic and the base base of the opening, a gap of at least 20 millimeters was obtained (for filling with foam);
• the angle of turn of the side elements of the slope was the same for the left and right sides (measured using a square applied to the window profile in the upper and lower parts on the right and left);
• if the elements of plastic panels protrude excessively above the plane of the opening, then it is recommended to correct their dimensions with a mounting knife;
• in the places where the panels are joined (in all corners), it is advisable to mount the trimmings of the starting profile, which will allow you to cover the unevenness of the cuts.

The next step is the manufacture of edging from the F - shaped profile. As with plastic, this process must begin with the top element.

The joints of the F-shaped profile must be cut at 45 degrees to each other. A very serious stage in the manufacture of plastic slopes is the foaming of the resulting voids.

The difficulty lies in not overdoing this process, so that the foam does not open the slopes during solidification.

To do this, it is desirable to foam the area around the perimeter of the window at the very base and lay the foam with jumpers between the plastic and the old slope.

Another layer of foam is laid along the slope angle, and prepared F-shaped profiles are installed in the resulting space, and their fixation is best done using adhesive tape.

When the foam solidifies (15-20 minutes), the structure becomes rigid and sufficiently stable. The final step is to coat the cracks with a special sealant or silicone.

In order to ensure that the process of installing plastic slopes does not cause great difficulties for the contractor, it is advisable to adhere to the following recommendations during construction operations:

1. Use PVC panels of good quality, in color, corresponding to the color shade of the window profile;
2. Before using the panels, remove (cut off) the mounting spike from them;
3. Trimming and cutting PVC panels with a mounting knife or electric jigsaw;
4. In order to avoid deformation of the panels during the foam hardening, it is necessary to use mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion, as well as to provide mechanical fixation of the slope elements in a given position for the time of preliminary setting of the foam (5 - 10 minutes);
5. If necessary, technological gaps between the reverse side of the PVC panels and the base base of the opening can be laid thermal insulation materials(before the foaming process);
6. To quickly remove traces of adhesive tape, it is best to use a cotton swab dipped in acetone;
7. After making the slope, plastering of the part of the opening under the window sill should be ensured.

Everything is ready and your slopes will delight you for decades. That is, it became clear that do-it-yourself plastic slopes for windows can be made by almost any person with little or no knowledge in the construction industry.

source: domgvozdem.ru

Plastic windows in our home are not a luxury, but a necessity. In addition to high aesthetic appeal, they reliably protect the living space from wind, dust and city noise. But installing them is only half the battle.

You will need to beautifully decorate the window opening, i.e. install slopes.

1. Plastering the surfaces of the window opening. In this case, the work will not cause any difficulties for anyone: everyone knows how to prepare a plaster solution and apply it to the wall. Another thing is that not everyone has the skill of plastering, but one way or another, if you put a little work and diligence, it is not difficult to make the slopes even.
2. Installation of plastic slopes.
3. Installation of plasterboard slopes.

Installing drywall slopes on plastic windows is the most commonly used way to design a window opening.

1. We measure the width of the slope with a small overlap of 2-2.5 cm;

2. We draw the necessary canvases on a GKLV sheet (gypsum plasterboard moisture-resistant sheet) and cut them out using a special knife for working with drywall, or a jigsaw. In the second case, it is recommended to moisten the material with water to prevent the spread of gypsum dust. You should get 2 side canvases and 1 top;

3. We start work from one of the sides. We install the GKLV sheet so that by 2-2.5 cm it goes into the groove between the plastic window itself and the wall;

4. We fill the seam with polyurethane foam on the inside of the slope between it and the wall, then apply 2 more strips of foam: in the middle of the slope (on the wall) and along its edge;

5. We apply a drywall sheet in such a way that there is a small space between it and the foam;

Useful advice!

6. We fix the canvas with dowel-nails "quick installation" in increments of 30-40 cm. We carry out all work using the building level, checking the verticality of the canvas installation;

8. After 2-3 hours (the time for the foam to harden), we will take putty (Fugenfüller, Uniflot, etc.), sickle (mesh mounting adhesive tape) and proceed to puttying cracks and joints.

First, we glue the sickle, after which, using a spatula and putty, we level the surface of the slopes;

9. Install the corners to protect the cuts. You will need perforated galvanized or aluminum corners.

A layer of Fugenfüller is applied to the drywall with a spatula, a corner is set strictly according to the level and slightly rubbed with this putty composition;

10. Now you need Vetonit VH putty, because. it is cement based. With e help, we putty and level the slopes so that the surface of the drywall is even;

11. After drying, GKLV is sanded.

Installing plastic trims

These slopes are the easiest to install, easy to clean, durable. Installation can be done with or without insulation. Installing slopes on plastic windows with your own hands is so simple that any man can handle it.

We will need:

1. Plastic sheet 6 m long and 8 mm thick;
2. Starting bar having a U-shape;
3. F-shaped plastic bar;
4. Rail made of wood with a thickness of 1-1.5 cm. The width can be any: from 3 to 7 cm;
5. Construction stapler and staples 6-8 mm.

Device Technology

Using a rail and self-tapping screws, we make out the outer edge of the window opening.

For fixing the rails, a puncher, wooden or plastic "chops" are used;

Along the edges of the plastic window, we set the starting bar;

We mount the F-shaped bar along the edge of the wooden slats. We fasten it with brackets;

We cut out the canvases from plastic and insert them between the U-shaped and F-shaped strips;

Under the plastic, you can lay a heater: mineral wool, penoizol or pour foam.

How to make slopes on windows? This question worries many who, after replacing window structures, faced such a problem. Indeed, serious work remains to be done to make the surfaces reliable and beautiful. It should be borne in mind that the slopes perform not only a decorative, but also a protective function. Therefore, it is necessary to approach this with all care. If you make mistakes or do the work poorly, then there will be a lot of trouble.

Window slopes are an integral part of any room. Some believe that such a design can be given minimal attention. But this is a misconception that leads to aesthetic and practical problems. The fact is that internal slopes perform a number of important functions:

1. Support a certain microclimate. Slopes prevent the heat from the room from escaping to the outside, as well as preventing the cold from penetrating inside. Naturally, protection against moisture, which leads to the formation of condensate, cannot be ruled out.
2. Extend the life of all structures. That is why such finishing should be carried out in short time. Of course, indoors it is still possible to delay installation, but outside, it is required to install slopes within a minimum time.
3. They create an excellent decorative component. The installation of slopes on windows can be attributed to one of the main components of a harmonious interior. You can install beautiful metal-plastic frames, but if they are not properly ennobled, they will lose their sophistication.

Therefore, doing all the work yourself, you need to follow all the technological nuances and rules. Then you can be sure that you will get a reliable and durable coating that will please the eye.

Design features

The slope device has its own characteristics. The fact is that it is necessary to take into account the main nuances that must be performed when working with your own hands:

• Finish the structure so that the edge of the frame closes quite a bit.
• It is necessary to take into account the location of the hinges and opening doors.
• The foam is cut flush with the frame. If you remove more of the substance than required, then a distortion of the structure may appear. Also, any bulging residues will interfere with the finishing process.
• Particular attention is paid to the assembly seam. The option that will be used for facing the window slopes depends on its thickness.
• The sealing process is very important. All places must be well smeared.

But how to finish the slopes, the location outside the room? The technology is almost completely consistent with the internal work. But the obligatory and most important rule will be the installation of a low tide.

Finish options

It is customary to distinguish two main options for cladding, which differ in the materials used.

Cladding with panel products

This technology assumes that materials will be used that are cut into panels of the desired size.

When choosing this method, the following features should be considered:

1. Material quality. Care must be taken in the choice of products used. The fact is that if you install a low-quality version, then problems will begin to arise during the installation process. For example, cheap plastic is different in that it crumbles and cracks when cut, and after installation it does not retain a good appearance for long.
2. The correct technology of insulation and processing. When installing panel products, voids often occur that can serve as a breeding ground for fungus and mold. Such places are a source of cold penetration. Therefore, surfaces need pre-treatment and laying of insulation, the choice of which depends on the specific situation.
3. Careful freezing. The main mistake that can happen is inaccuracies in measurements. If you do not take into account the location of the parts, then wide joints are formed that cannot be hidden even with decorative moldings.
4. Finishing. The installation of slopes from panel products should be combined with the correct selection of decorative elements. For subsequent finishing, you can use special profiles and corners, as well as putty external joints. When installing overhead fragments, it is important to make the correct trimming so that all joints are equivalent.

On a note! To produce the most accurate parts for window slopes, two methods are used. The first is to simply measure and transfer data to the material, the second is to create stencils. This method is much more accurate, but it takes more time, because it is necessary to perform a stencil at each stage of work.

Solution application

Such work consists in the fact that a certain layer of the prepared solution is applied to the windows with their own hands, which completely covers the entire surface of the slopes. This option is considered the most traditional. Its distinguishing feature is cheapness.

Finishing can be performed according to two main scenarios:

1. Traditional. The surface is finished with a mixture that is leveled at a certain angle.
2. With extra insulation. This technology involves the use of foam, which serves as the basis. In fact, this option can be fraught with many problems. Improper installation of insulation is a guarantee that numerous cracks and delaminations will appear.

Preparatory activities

Before wondering how to make slopes correctly, you should carefully prepare the surface. The amount of work depends on the specific situation. There is a general order that must be followed:

Slope manufacturing technology

How to trim slopes? There are basic materials that are used for such work:

• plastic pvc panels for walls;
• sandwich panels;
• plaster.

Each option is selected based on several reasons:

• Distance from wall to window frame. That is, the thickness of the mounting seam.
• Lot widths.
• Financial expenses.

Given that the master needs to do all the work himself, then the option that will be most acceptable is selected.

PVC wall panels

PVC panels are the most popular material for finishing window slopes.

This material is used most often, especially if needed. There are several reasons for this:

1. Cheapness. Modern technologies make it possible to produce products that are accessible to everyone.
2. Practicality. If you choose materials that do not belong to the category of economy, then they are unpretentious in operation and serve for a long time.
3. Ease of installation. Works are carried out quickly, without the use of complex tools.

Installation of slopes from plastic panels is carried out according to the following instructions:

But the window trim is not finished yet. A number of finishing manipulations should be performed. They lie in the fact that all joints are well coated with sealant. From the outside, decorative corners are installed. They need to be cut correctly in order to join at an angle of 90 degrees.

When there is a dilemma about which slopes are best, there can be many suggestions and opinions. But it will be undeniable that it is better to make slopes from sandwich panels. They combine all the positive qualities of PVC materials, but have additional advantages:

• Products include a reliable layer of protection (one or two), as well as a layer of insulation. This avoids the need to use additional material.
• Resistant to various influences, so that their service life is almost unlimited.
• Have excellent decorative look. Indeed, such panels are superior in appearance to wall products. In addition, this material can be made in a fairly wide size, which is ideal for large openings.

Making slopes on the windows with your own hands using such products is quite simple. It should be borne in mind that this option is great in cases where the thickness of the assembly seam is minimal. For work, a three-layer material is used.

Consider how to install slopes from sandwich panels. Everything is done as follows:

The use of plaster

Previously, there were no questions about how to make slopes on the windows. After all, there was only one option, which was to use plaster. This method is quite convenient and practical, but requires skills. This need arises due to the fact that you need to correctly display all the planes and observe the angle of inclination. Although, if you practice a little and understand how best to apply the mixture, then plastering will not cause any particular difficulties.

The general technology is:

It turns out an excellent coating, which is characterized by increased reliability. The undoubted advantage of this option is that each section made can be repaired and the decorative layer can be changed.

Conclusion

Summarizing the above, we can conclude that there are various options finishing window slopes, which depend on the specific situation and financial capabilities. The main thing is to initially carry out all the work with high quality, observing all the nuances.

After replacement and installation of double-glazed windows, window openings need to be finished. And if only a specialist is required to install the window, then everyone can do the finishing work. This process has a simple technology, so installing plastic slopes with your own hands is not at all difficult. Practical, inexpensive, easy-to-use plastic panels are mounted in just 3-4 hours, completely changing the appearance of the window opening.

In order to qualitatively install the slopes, you should clean the surfaces of the opening well and prepare everything necessary tools and materials. Plastic panels must have a thickness of at least 8 mm, and in length and width correspond to the parameters of the opening. Too thin plastic will not last long, moreover, it can be easily damaged during installation.

In addition to the panels for work, you will need:

You can start finishing not earlier than 36 hours after the installation of the double-glazed window. During this time, the mounting foam on which the frame is installed has time to completely harden, and even accidentally touching the structure, it will not work to move it.

Now you need to clean and prepare the walls of the opening by performing the following operations:

Production and installation of plastic slopes

When the walls of the opening are dry, a vapor barrier film is glued around the perimeter. At the joints, the pieces of the film are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The edges of the film must not protrude beyond the window frame. After that, proceed to the manufacture of slopes.

Step 1. Installation of the starting profile

The starting profile is screwed along the outer edge of the window frame with short self-tapping screws. At the corners, when connecting a horizontal bar to a vertical one, the profile is fixed so that its inner walls fit snugly against each other, without gaps and cracks.

Step 2. Fastening wooden slats

Fastening wooden slats

They take slats 15 mm thick and 40 mm wide, cut them to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. With the help of driven dowels, the rails are fixed around the perimeter with the flat side to the surface so that their edges do not go beyond the plane of the wall. Both the top and side rails must be set horizontally and vertically using a level. If the walls of the opening are not even enough, thin wedges are placed under the slats.

Step 3. Cutting slopes

Very accurately measure the length and width of the walls of the opening, as well as the angle of the bevel on each side. Cut lines are marked on the panel and, using a jigsaw or a sharp knife, slope blanks are cut out.

By the way, about the plastering of slopes with your own hands - you can read on our website.

The resulting parts are applied to the walls and to the upper part of the opening, their location and tightness in the corners are checked.

Step 4. Installation of slopes

The F-shaped profile is cut to the size of the outer perimeter of the opening and the ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. A section of the profile is applied to the rail so that it is completely covered with plastic, but does not block the groove for attaching the slope. Fix the profile on the rail with stapler staples. The rest of the segments are mounted in the same way.

The blank of the upper slope is laid in the upper starting profile, having previously covered it with a sealant. Holding the slope on the weight, fill the gap between the panel and the wall with a heater. The insulation layer should not be too thick or have voids. The outer edge of the slope is brought into the groove of the profile and pressed lightly to align the panel.

Next, side slopes are installed, carefully distributing the heat-insulating material. If the outer walls are insulated, there is no need to additionally insulate the slopes. In this case, the voids between the panels and the base base of the slopes are filled with mounting foam. It is very important not to overdo it here, as excess foam can squeeze out the panels or arch them. It is desirable to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, apply it in small portions, evenly distributing it along the height of the gap.

Step 5. Finishing

The places where the panels fit together and to the window sill must be well degreased. Next, the seams and cracks are filled with acrylic sealant. With a clean cloth soaked in acetone, wipe off traces of glue and sealant on the panels and profile, plaster the area of ​​​​the opening under the windowsill.

Plastic slopes are also used to decorate the doorway. The process of their installation is slightly different from the installation of window slopes. The surface of the opening is prepared in exactly the same way: the frozen foam around the door frame is cut off with a knife, the walls are cleaned of wallpaper, paint or plaster, and all cracks are carefully sealed with mortar. If it is planned to fix the slopes on the surface itself, it should be leveled with a cement-sand mortar. If frame technology is used, it is enough to seal cracks and deep recesses.

For work you will need:

Step 1 Mounting the frame

Measure the width of the walls of the opening from the door frame to the corner line. Reiki is sawn into pieces according to measurements. Horizontal lines are marked on the side walls with a pencil at a distance of 50-60 cm. According to the marking, holes are drilled for the dowels and the rails are fixed. If the surface is uneven, use mounting wedges or thin bars that are placed under the rails. 3 transverse bars are attached to the lintel - 2 in the corners and one in the middle.

Step 2. Panel cutting

Cut lines are marked on the panel with a pencil, forming a slope. The angle of inclination is especially carefully measured, because the mismatch of the joints is not always possible to close up imperceptibly. All fragments should be 10-12 cm wider than the sheathed surface in order to close the edges of the corners. It is necessary to cut three blanks - 2 side and one on the lintel. After that, the blanks are attached to the walls of the opening and the correctness of the cutting is checked.

Step 3. Installation of slopes

Take the first slope and apply it to the wall of the doorway. Having aligned the joints at the corners, on the back side of the workpiece, mark the fold line with a pencil. With a sharp knife, a vertical cut is made in the cavity of the panel, leaving the front side intact. The slope is again applied to the surface, leveled and screwed with small screws to the frame.

When the main part of the slope is fixed, screw the protruding edge. To do this, determine the border of the panel, retreat from it 2 cm to the opening and draw a vertical line. According to this marking, 6-7 holes are drilled, wooden wedges are hammered into them, and then the edge of the slope is pressed against the wall and screwed, setting the screws at the level of the wedges. Instead of wedges, dense wooden corks can be used.

A second side slope is installed, after which it is sheathed with a lintel panel. The top edge of this blank should overlap the ends of the side ledges; after installation is completed, the material is carefully cut at an angle and the joints are glued. The internal seams are smeared with sealant, the excess is removed with a clean rag, if desired, the hats of the self-tapping screws are smeared to match the color of the slopes.

Video - Installation of a slope on the door

Frameless finishing method

If the walls of the opening are perfectly smooth and even, you can simply glue the slopes:

• to increase adhesion, the surface is coated with a deep penetration primer and dried;
• plastic panels are cut according to measurements so that the edge of the slope falls exactly on the corner of the wall;
• after that, glue is applied around the perimeter of the workpiece and several strokes in the center, and then pressed to the surface;
• until the glue has hardened, align the corners and edges;
• glue the side slopes, then close the lintel. The side cuts of the top panel should overlap the edges of the slopes by 2-3 mm.

At the end, vertical seams are sealed, and along the outer perimeter of the opening, decorative platbands are attached to match the color of the door and slopes.

Video - Do-it-yourself plastic slopes

Video - How to make slopes on plastic windows