Any repair done by yourself, no matter how complex it is, must be done with high quality. Therefore, you should not ignore the preliminary work, and be sure to take into account all the nuances of preparation, the sequence of stages, one of which is putty, including the finishing putty.
You can better understand what needs to be done before gluing, what exactly putty is needed for, what to putty on, how to putty on walls under wallpaper, etc. First things first.
Before gluing wallpaper, you need:
- Get dry walls. The walls should not be damp. Walls that are not dry enough, or a high level of atmospheric humidity will interfere with high-quality gluing. If you want to fix the situation yourself, you can turn on the heater or ventilate the room.
- The walls need to be washed. Fungus, mold, stains - all this is unacceptable before gluing. After this treatment of the wall, it needs to be primed.
- Old wallpaper can be left, but only those that do not come off easily. Those wallpapers that come off on their own after simple manipulations must be torn off.
Almost always the surface is sanded before it is puttied. This is best done with sandpaper, which can be purchased at the construction market.
Puttying walls under wallpaper: process details (video)
Which putty is best for walls under wallpaper?
First, decide whether you need dry putty or a ready-made mixture. Dry putty is a mixture of binder, filler and various additives. This mixture is diluted with water before use; this should be done according to the instructions. The only downside of this putty is that it can be used strictly within a period of eight hours to a day.
Ready-made putty is an already diluted mixture; after this putty is applied to the wall, dries, shrinkage occurs. Therefore, such putties are not applied to the finishing layers.
In the case of putty under wallpaper, it is the finishing putty that is needed. It is believed that the best examples of such finishing mixtures have fractions of fillers up to 100 microns, then no grinding is required.
What is the difference between dry putty and ready-mixed putty (video)
How to properly putty walls under wallpaper
Before puttying, the wall is covered with a primer yourself; this is a special liquid that turns into a waterproof film on the wall. Primers can be acrylic, as well as alkyd, glyphthalic or perchlorovinyl.
After the primer, a base putty is applied, this is done like this:
- To transfer small portions of putty from a container onto a spatula, it is better to use a small fifteen-centimeter spatula;
- The putty is applied to the surface from left to right, then the putty is removed from the area by moving from right to left;
- The putty should be applied overlapping so that one layer overlaps the other;
- The spatula is brought to the wall at an angle of 30 degrees, which equals the ideal gap between the wall and the spatula;
- You need to move the spatula correctly, diagonally, so that the material is evenly distributed in all directions.
At the bottom of the wall, the spatula must be moved from bottom to top, both applying putty and removing its excess.
Wallpapering on plaster without putty
And this option is possible if the wall is smooth, the layer of plaster is relatively good, and nothing falls off in pieces. Make sure there are no defects in the plaster. But you still can’t glue without a primer, and the primer must be of high quality.
Is it possible to glue wallpaper onto plaster without putty?
In this case, you have to apply the primer to the plaster yourself in many layers. There are certain primers with additives, these additives increase the primer's resistance to moisture and mold.
Before priming the wall, take care of your safety. Be sure to wear a respirator and thick protective clothing to avoid getting dirty. The composition is best applied with a roller or brush, whichever is more convenient for you.
The nuances of a primer without putty:
- The mixture is applied from top to bottom, generously;
- Do not apply primer in one layer, two – at least, or even more;
- Wallpaper can be glued only after the primer has completely dried; if the canvas has come off, you need to apply more liberally to the wall with your own hands.
That is, very often the plaster is primed, and wallpaper is glued onto the primed plaster. But why is puttying still considered the preferred procedure?
Do I need to putty the walls before wallpapering?
There are at least three good reasons that prove the need for putty.
Why you need to putty:
- Putty rubs all the pores of the plaster layer. This improves the contact of the finishing coating with the surface.
- Putty reduces subsequent glue consumption, and prevents the finishing layer from coming off the wall.
- Putty smoothes out all unevenness, seals small cracks, making them invisible.
In addition, the putty also prevents the cement-sand surface from gradually crumbling.
Preparing walls before wallpapering (video tutorial)
Is it possible to glue wallpaper onto putty?
It is possible and necessary, and you definitely should not avoid this stage. Remember one rule - wallpaper must be glued to a flat wall, even a perfectly flat one. And putty just helps the wall become smoother, with your own hands you can repair all the cracks that can appear through the wallpaper if putty is avoided.
So, schematically the putty-primer process goes like this:
- Cracks must be properly cut with your own hands, and any flying pieces of plaster must be removed;
- After this, the surface is thoroughly primed;
- Coarse primer is applied in a thick layer to seal all cracks;
- If the unevenness is very large, the priming process is repeated;
- After leveling the wall, you take the finishing putty, cover the entire surface of the wall, the wall should become smooth and one-color;
After the wall has dried, you can paste the wallpaper.
How many layers of wallpaper putty do you need?
The starting layer of putty can be very thick - up to 5 mm. To properly putty a wall, you can get by with two or three layers. The finishing layer, unlike the starting layer, may be thinner.
The putty can be completed by sanding, using regular sandpaper. To see if the sanding was done properly, hold the lamp to the wall at an angle.
Another emphasis: two or three layers of putty are enough, but still sometimes a primer is applied after them. Experts advise applying it in almost all cases, and only then gluing it.
Chipboard putty for wallpaper
Which putty to choose for chipboard is a very important question. Since chipboard is not a stable base, a two-component epoxy putty is suitable in this case. This is a strong putty, durable, good for processing joints.
Chipboard joints can be reinforced with mesh. To press the putty into the seams, you need either a wallpaper spatula or another tool convenient for you. The putty will not stick to a metal spatula, but it is less flexible than oil and acrylic compounds.
After applying the putty, the surface of the chipboard should dry for up to 24 hours. If drying time needs to be reduced, use a heater.
How to putty OSB board under wallpaper
You can’t just stick wallpaper onto the OSB board itself with your own hands, because the glue contains water, and eventually the material will begin to grow in volume and the wallpaper, of course, will fall off.
The following instructions will tell you how to putty wallpaper on an OSB board:
- Apply a layer of deep penetration resin-based primer to the slab;
- Wait until the soil layer dries completely;
- Next, a layer of putty is applied to the slab;
- Elastic reinforcement material is applied on top.
Only this sequence will allow you to properly wallpaper an OSB slab.
Puttying walls: complete master class (video)
What to putty on depends on the type of surface and your financial capabilities, but the fact that finishing putty on the wall before gluing is necessary is not even discussed. How to putty walls under wallpaper - putty in at least two layers, prime, check the plaster for integrity, try to choose a good glue and then the wallpaper will look perfect and delight you appearance very long.
After leveling large defects, blockages of walls and significant irregularities, they move on to the final stage - leveling and strengthening the walls. Using putty, small scratches, transitions of layers of plaster, chips and cracks, and all minor flaws in the rough finish are repaired. The putty surface becomes completely suitable for wallpapering or painting.
Why putty the walls after plastering?
Special polymer and stabilizing additives are introduced into putty mixtures based on gypsum or cement-sand compositions, making the solution more plastic and slowing down its setting. Thanks to this, the putty is applied in a very thin layer, creating a perfectly flat and smooth surface.
After the plaster has dried, it is not necessary to putty the walls only before laying tiles or gluing thick wallpaper. Small defects underneath will simply not be visible, so the surface is only primed. In other cases, especially when painting or finishing thin wallpaper You can't do without plaster. After all, it is capable of not only smoothing out the smallest cracks, but also:
- prevent the plaster from falling off over time;
- significantly improve the adhesion (adhesion) of walls to wallpaper and other finishing materials, they will hold on more firmly and will not peel off;
- reduce the consumption of wallpaper glue and paint.
After what time can putty be applied?
Cement-sand leveling mixtures take quite a long time to fully gain strength - 4 weeks. But there is no need to wait this long after plastering. Cement gains 70% of its strength in a week. This is quite enough for applying putty and subsequent finishing, including heavy work. tiles. For example, cement facade plaster Knauf Unterputz 20 mm thick dries within 7-10 days.
Gypsum compositions set in 40-60 minutes and dry completely in about a week. For example, the popular Knauf Rotband, applied to the walls with a layer of 15-20 mm, can be puttyed after 7 days. In a humid room or low temperatures, the drying time may increase to 10-14 days.
Drying time also depends on the thickness of the layer, as well as the temperature and humidity in the room. Using construction hair dryers or creating drafts to speed up the process is not advisable - significant cracks can form on the surface if it dries unevenly, and over time the plaster will begin to peel off.
After drying, before puttingtying, the plaster must be sanded - using a special grater with a fine mesh or sandpaper, the wall is processed in a circular motion. In this way, small deposits of the dried mixture, traces of a spatula, and places where layers were applied are removed.
Do I need to prime the walls?
Many people believe that pre-priming walls is just an unnecessary waste of money. However, if you want the future decorative coating to look perfect and last as long as possible, then the walls must be primed before puttying.
Primer that penetrates deep into pores:
- protects the surface from peeling;
- promotes more uniform penetration of putty, adhesives and dyes.
Primer solutions They are also an excellent antiseptic that protects walls from fungus. In addition, they prevent moisture, which contributes to its development, from penetrating too deeply into the walls.
The choice of primers is quite large on the construction market, and manufacturers offer special types for each type of surface. To cover walls after plastering, it is better to use acrylic, polystyrene or perchlorovinyl mixtures of deep penetration or universal compositions of medium porosity.
The walls must first be treated with a wet sponge to remove the smallest dust particles. You can prime with either a roller or a brush - a roller distributes the mixture more evenly, and a brush is more convenient to apply it in hard-to-reach places. Also, for convenience and speed, hand sprayers are used.
Puttying begins only after the primer has dried. The time for complete fixation is always indicated on the packaging and can vary from 5 to 15 hours.
What is the best way to putty?
Basic requirements for compositions for interior decoration premises:
- high plasticity;
- ease of application;
- ideal smoothness of the created surface;
- affordable price.
Gypsum-based compositions - ideal option for puttying inside the house. A feature of gypsum materials is their rapid setting (40-60 minutes), ease of application and subsequent grouting.
Many people are perplexed about the need to putty the walls after plastering them, because the plaster seems to have been applied along the beacons, so the surface turned out to be perfectly smooth, and you can glue wallpaper on it, apply paint or finish it with other materials. Plastered walls do not need puttying only if tiles are subsequently laid on them, MDF boards or fiberglass wallpaper are glued. But these materials practically create new surfaces. And putty allows you to create the most even base for finishing with paint or more traditional wallpaper.
The most important task of putty is to level out all the depressions and irregularities on the surface.
Why do you need puttying?
So, you need to putty the walls for at least 2 reasons.
- All pores of the plaster layer are rubbed with putty. This improves the contact of the finishing coating with the surface to be finished, reduces the consumption of the adhesive mixture and prevents the finishing layer from peeling off the wall or ceiling.
- Puttying allows you to level out all the unevenness and repair microcracks that remain, albeit unnoticeable, even after the most skillful plastering. In addition, the putty prevents the gradual disintegration of the cement-sand surface.
Scheme for applying putty to the wall.
After wallpapering or applying paint, all the slightest irregularities will stick out very clearly. In addition, the particles of the top layer of plaster are weakly adhered to each other. Plain coatings will not be able to hide these defects, and textured finishes or coatings with a pattern applied to them will only partially mask the unevenness.
You should immediately preempt the possible question of whether it is necessary to putty drywall (after all, it is a very even and smooth material) with an affirmative answer, since the sheets of drywall are joined together and attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. During installation, dents, extra holes, etc. may form on them. In addition to sealing seams, irregularities, and holes, puttying creates a single leveled surface on the gypsum board, in to the same degree over its entire area interacting with the coating.
By the way, the joints of any board materials (plywood, OSB) prepared for subsequent finishing with paint, varnish, etc. are puttied.
We must not forget about one more reason for puttying surfaces. It is carried out (even if you have not re-plastered them) after washing off the whitewash from the walls or ceiling, cleaning the surfaces of paint or old wallpaper. In any case, after removing the old finishing materials, the planes need to be leveled. We can only hope that the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to putty walls and ceilings was comprehensive.
Why putty is clarified. It remains to figure out how to do this correctly so that the walls under the wallpaper or the ceiling become truly perfectly smooth. First of all, it is necessary right choice leveling compounds that are best suited to certain operating conditions.
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How to choose putty
Well-known brands of putty mixtures.
Today, manufacturers offer dry and ready-made mixtures. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. Dry formulations can be stored for a long time, but when diluted they are only good for a short time. At the same time, dry mixes are cheaper, but also have high versatility. Ready-made solutions have a long shelf life, but are more expensive than dry solutions. In addition, putties diluted by the manufacturer tend to shrink.
Mixtures are also divided according to such indicators as the binder component. They are:
- gypsum, which are easy to apply and process, practically do not shrink, but are afraid of moisture;
- cement, suitable for work in rooms with high humidity, but losing volume when hardening;
- polymeric, providing better alignment and elimination of surface defects, besides, these putties are very elastic, but they are also the most expensive.
Putty mixtures differ in one more feature - their purpose for a certain stage of work. They are divided into:
Table of characteristics of putty solutions.
- leveling (first layer), which are used for preliminary application;
- finishing (second layer), used for final leveling;
- universal ones, which are laid both as the first layer and as the final one, however, their versatility is achieved at the expense of deteriorating characteristics in relation to “narrow-profile” mixtures.
Choose putty compositions that are most suitable for your “work area”. The recommended area of application of the putty is marked by the manufacturer on each package of this product.
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How to putty correctly
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Puttying under wallpaper
It is not difficult to putty walls under wallpaper. Putty is put on a spatula and stretched over a certain area. But in order for the work to be carried out efficiently, you need to follow the recommendations.
Scheme of grouting joints with a spatula.
- The wall must be cleared of grains of sand.
- The surface is primed. As a result, a dense crust forms on the wall, which also improves adhesion.
- The putty is applied after the primer has dried. The thickness of the leveling layers should not exceed 2 mm, otherwise when drying the coating may crack and crumble.
- Start putting putty from one of the corners of the wall. Start leveling from the bottom.
- Apply putty to all corners of the wall. You can use an angle spatula. The mixture is not applied to it, but using a syringe gun directly into the corner. The spatula only smoothes it out.
- After finishing the corners, start working on the main surface.
- Apply the mixture onto a spatula in small portions. For now, use a narrow tool. Once you get better at it, you can use a wider spatula. Remember that a wide tool will level a large area, but it will be somewhat harder to work with it due to the increase in the mass of the mixture.
- Work with 2 spatulas. Apply the narrower putty to the main one. In addition, with the second spatula you can adjust the amount of mixture on the first one, remove excess from the spatula, move the putty towards the edge, etc.
- The putty is applied in diagonal movements. Each subsequent portion of the leveler is overlapped with the previous one.
- After the first layer has dried, which lasts at least ½ day, the surface is sanded with a special abrasive mesh attached to a block or jointer, since the edges of the spatula leave marks on the wall in the form of grooves and sagging.
- The wall is primed again.
- The putty is applied one more time. This is done only to correct remaining unevenness, and not to create another layer.
- The surface is cleaned again. Dust is removed from it. The walls are primed, but only for wallpapering.
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Leveling for painting
List of basic tools for puttying walls and ceilings.
Still, wallpaper is less demanding on the condition of the surface than paint. The walls under it should be finished with greater care. True, water-based coatings are to some extent capable of hiding minor surface imperfections, while enamels, on the contrary, will stick them out. Therefore, puttying for painting is carried out with a large number of leveling layers, with a spatula of smaller width, and sanding is carried out with a thinner abrasive.
It should be noted that defects may remain invisible or, conversely, appear at different lighting angles, so sanding of each layer should be carried out under the light of a lamp brought close to the surface. There is another way to determine how correctly the plane is formed: a rule is established on it, and with opposite side a flashlight turns on near him. All surface curves will be clearly visible. Excess putty is removed with sandpaper or a spatula, and the depressions are outlined with a pencil. After this, the unevenness is sealed with a leveling mixture, and a new layer of putty is applied.
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What is needed for puttying
So, you don't need many tools for puttying. It is enough if you have:
- a set of several spatulas with a blade width from 80 to 600 mm;
- corner spatula;
- a rubber spatula, which may be needed in hard-to-reach places;
- abrasive mesh;
- the jointer on which it is attached.
As you can see, not much is needed to make the walls or ceilings smooth. Just be patient and carry out the work with due diligence. A positive result will not be long in coming.
Similar materials
If you look at standard apartments in ordinary houses, it is wallpaper that occupies most of surfaces of walls and ceilings. This finishing material attracts with its simplicity, cost, and speed of work. Today you can choose not only from a variety of colors, but also from quality.
Wallpaper is used on a variety of surfaces, for example, on brick and concrete walls, which must first be plastered to make flat surface. They are often glued to plasterboard walls, the question often arises whether it is necessary to putty the walls before wallpapering or whether this stage of work can be neglected. We will try to reveal the answer to this in this article.
Preparing the surfaces
Concrete or brick wall
Before gluing wallpaper on such a surface, you must use putty. In this situation, two stages are implied - applying the starting layer and then the finishing layer. In this case, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris, remove flaking old plaster and remove dust using soil.
The starting putty can be applied in a layer as thick as 60 mm in one go. It has a coarse-grained structure and therefore allows you to quickly prepare the surface for finishing. Usually they use a beacon system, which makes it possible to properly level the surface.
After this, the wall is given time to dry completely. If you do not wait, then in these places the wallpaper will begin to wrinkle and bubble, as the material will begin to deform as it dries.
Advice: you can check visually whether the surface has dried or not - there are dark spots on it, which means it is not yet time for further work.
The second stage is covering the gypsum boards themselves with a thin layer of finishing putty with your own hands. Although there are finishers who skip this stage in order to complete the work faster.
But let's see what this could mean in the future. For example, after 10 years or earlier you want to change the interior of your apartment, for which the best and fastest way is to re-glue the wallpaper.
What will happen as a result is that the old panels will “peel off” along with the cardboard surface of the slabs, exposing a layer of gypsum. Such sheets cannot be used in the future; they should be replaced. Thus, you have to waste money and time.
If you had previously covered the surface of the plasterboard sheets with finishing putty, such a misunderstanding would not have occurred. Therefore, the answer is unequivocal - putty on gypsum boards is required.
Now about the joints. They can be reinforced and not used additional materials for this. In the first case, use any starting and finishing putty, in the second - a special mixture for sealing joints of gypsum boards "Uniflot".
But even in this case, additional processing will not hurt.
- Buy fiberglass in a store or market, which is usually sold in rolls 1 m wide, the price of which is quite affordable.
- Also buy PVA glue marked “construction”.
- Use a brush to coat the dried, sealed seams between the gypsum boards.
- Cut a 70 mm wide bobbin from the roll with a plasterboard knife and glue it to the seam. Cover it again with PVA glue on top.
After the joints have dried, apply a deep penetration primer to the gypsum board and, after it has dried, a layer of finishing putty. Only after this you can glue wallpaper onto the gypsum board without worrying that someday you will have to do costly repairs again.
Conclusion
The use of putty on the surface that will subsequently be covered with wallpaper is mandatory. This is especially true for plasterboard sheets. There is no need to make the surface perfectly smooth; small scratches will be reliably hidden by the wallpaper ().
In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
Anyone who has ever encountered a wall knows perfectly well what the “ideal” walls are in our homes. These are continuous pits, tubercles and cracks. If the defects are very large, then you can’t do without them, but to correct minor surface flaws you can use a special putty. In today's article we will look at what this composition is, its types, in what cases it is used and how to properly putty walls and ceilings.
Read in the article
What is putty and why is it needed?
Putty or, more correctly, putty (from the name of the tool “spatula”) is a fairly plastic finishing material that is used to eliminate surface defects, as well as create a durable and strong base for or. The preparation of walls or ceilings consists of several stages, and each of them requires its own type of this construction and finishing composition.
Dry or ready-made putty mixture, which can be starting, finishing and universal, consists of the following main ingredients:
- gypsum;
- various fillers;
- plasticizers;
- thickeners and hardeners.
Types of putty
As we have already mentioned, finishing work using putty is carried out in several stages, and each of them requires its own type of special mixture, namely:
- starting putty designed to eliminate surface defects and is the basis for decorative finishing of walls and ceilings;
- finishing mixture used to create the final decorative layer;
- universal putty can be used simultaneously as a starting and finishing mixture.
Putty Perfekta Start Glide
Weber KR putty
Perfekta Ekokraft putty
What spatulas are needed for puttying walls and leveling corners?
Spatulas are used in many types of construction and finishing work, and each requires its own tool. They differ in size and shape. The table shows the main types of spatulas indicating their purpose.
| Spatula type | Work performed | Type and features of the tool |
|
|
|
| The spatula is used for interior finishing as an auxiliary tool. |
|
| The tool is used for puttying external and internal corners. | It is a metal plate bent at a right angle and equipped with a handle. |
What is the best wall putty to use when leveling surfaces?
In addition to the fact that putty can be starting, finishing and universal, it also differs in composition. So, putty mixtures are:
- acrylic – used for interior finishing work. This type of putty is highly moisture-resistant and versatile, protects walls from dampness, and is also used to create a decorative finishing layer and is suitable for working with wooden surfaces;
- water-dispersed – has high elasticity, good adhesion, resistance to cracks and shrinkage, and is also durable;
- oil-glue mixture. The putty composition is made on the basis of drying oil and is ideal for creating a finishing layer before painting the surface with oil paints;
- cement putty excellent for working with stone and surfaces in rooms with high;
- gypsum mixture used for work in rooms with low humidity levels .
Why do you need putty - different for each layer
Applying any putty in several thin or one thick layer is ineffective, since the material is expensive and drying will take a lot of working time. Therefore, to eliminate significant defects and level the surface, use it, then apply a starting (1-3 mm) and finishing (up to 0.5 mm) layer with putty. To create a high-quality and more durable finish, it is necessary to use materials from the same manufacturer.
Starting putty (plaster) helps create a solid base for subsequent finishing
Plaster KNAUF Rotband
Only one finishing coat can be applied to a high-quality surface. Before puttingtying the wall or ceiling, it is necessary to use the starting putty composition only after that. After drying, it is sanded, dust is removed and covered with a finishing layer.
Putty DANOGIPS Dano Top 5
The surface that will subsequently be painted must be brought to a perfectly flat and smooth state. If the wall is being finished for subsequent pasting, then it is enough to use starting putty.
Technology of puttying walls and ceilings
Puttying is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. To perform work efficiently, you need a certain amount of experience, which can be acquired over time. In order to learn how to putty walls and ceilings yourself, you must follow the instructions that will be presented below.
Surface preparation and priming
Before you start finishing the walls and ceiling with putty, you need to clean the surface of the old coating, grease stains, dirt and dust. After this, the surface must be treated with a special primer, which will create good adhesion between the finishing material and the wall. Priming is done using a roller, making sure there are no gaps, and the wall is left to dry for at least 24 hours.
How to prepare putty correctly
To obtain high-quality finished putty, you must follow the instructions indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer of the finishing material. To prepare the solution, you will need a clean plastic container of appropriate volume. You will also need an electric drill with a special metal whisk for high-quality mixing of the dry mixture with water.
The putty solution is prepared in the following sequence:
- Pour ¼ of clean water at room temperature into the container.
- Gradually add the required amount of dry mixture.
- Using an electric mixer, mix the putty until it becomes a homogeneous mass.
- Leave the finished mixture for 10 minutes to proof.
- Mix the solution thoroughly again.
- The consistency of the finished putty should be similar to thick sour cream. If the solution is thicker, it will adhere less well to the surface, and liquid composition flows down from the spatula and forms sagging on the surface being treated.
Comment
Ask a question“At one time you need to prepare the amount of solution that the master can use in about 40 minutes.”
Primary leveling of walls with putty
Before leveling the walls with putty, you need to check them using a rule that will allow you to identify bumps and depressions. Having identified significant defects in the form of protrusions, you can cut them down with an ax or a hammer drill with a chisel. Next, you need to prime the walls and only then prepare the putty composition.
First you need to make a small amount of putty in order to determine the speed of work. Using a narrow spatula, evenly apply the prepared solution onto a wider one, which is applied to the wall at an angle of approximately 60˚, and stretch it over the surface to be treated. The tool must be held firmly, but without excessive force. Over time, you can learn to control the pressure on the spatula.
Comment
Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"
Ask a question“Putting the walls should start from the corner of the room. For this, a special angled spatula is used.”
After the walls are plastered, you need to let them dry for 2 days. After drying, the quality of the work will be visible and where additional finishing will be required. Irregularities are identified by the same rule. After that, defect elimination is carried out in two ways:
- If there are depressions on the surface, they are filled with another layer of putty.
- If there are tubercles, they can be removed using a special grater with abrasive and a perfectly smooth surface can be achieved.
After the surface has dried and defects have been eliminated, the walls are primed, and you can begin applying finishing putty or gluing.
Puttying the surface using beacons
The better the quality of the base, the less finishing putty will be required and, accordingly, the cheaper the repair will be. To obtain an ideal surface, special perforated profiles are used - “beacons”, which allow you to quickly and efficiently level the walls, which is perfect for beginners.
The metal profile is installed on a sand-cement mortar, focusing on a plumb line or building level and achieving an ideal vertical. The distance between the beacons should be 100-150 mm less than the length of the building rule used. After installing the beacons, you need to let the solution dry so that they do not get lost during subsequent finishing with putty.
Prepare putty (described above) and fill the gap between the beacons with it, and the maximum layer thickness does not matter. Relying on the profiles, pull from the bottom up, cutting off excess mortar and, if necessary, filling the depressions with it. The operation is performed several times until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the temperature, humidity in the room and the thickness of the layer, it sometimes takes more than a week for the putty to dry.
How to apply putty to the wall for the finishing layer
After the walls are prepared accordingly, you can proceed to finishing the surface with finishing putty. For this purpose, compositions are used, dry or ready-made, which after processing acquire an even and perfectly smooth surface. Finishing putty It is applied in a thin layer, and the smoother the base, the less solution consumption will be. The technology of puttying and sanding is practically no different from working with starting mixtures.
We bring to your attention a video on how to apply finishing putty to a wall:
Drying, sanding and sanding putty walls
The final stage of finishing work using putty requires serious attention and consists of several stages. One of them is sanding, which is often skipped by inexperienced finishers, but first things first. So, after applying the finishing layer of putty, you need to let it dry well, since it is after this that the smallest defects become noticeable, namely cracks, which must be repaired when they occur.
Advice! To identify defects during puttying, it is necessary to use lighting devices with a powerful bright lamp and aimed at a slight angle at the wall being treated.
After the putty has dried, you need to sand the surface to remove small bumps and sagging, and also to make the wall perfectly smooth. If you intend to paste over the wall, then it will be enough to sand it well, but in case of painting, additional sanding will be required. To bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, you can use fine (almost zero) sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.
You need to start sanding from any upper corner and, making circular movements, process the wall, highlighting it with powerful bright light. It is undesirable to apply strong pressure on the grater so as not to damage the finishing layer.
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Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"
Ask a question“Since sanding and sanding are very dirty and dusty stages of finishing work, it is worth using a respirator, safety glasses and gloves, and the room is well ventilated. In addition, these protective measures are required by the safety instructions.”
How to putty walls under wallpaper with your own hands
The technology for puttingtying walls under is practically no different from finishing surfaces under:
- The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package.
- The work is carried out with two spatulas - one with a width of 150 mm and the second with a width of at least 300 mm.
- One section is processed, after the second, with an overlap of about 50 mm, etc.
- After the wall is completely plastered, it is allowed to dry, and only then do they begin to level the wall by sanding.
- Clean the surface from dust, reapply putty, and then repeat everything all over again until a perfectly flat surface is achieved.
When the wall is completely plastered, it is primed and pasted over. Applying a primer prevents the occurrence of fungus, mold and dampness, and also improves adhesion between various finishing materials. The video shows how to properly putty walls under wallpaper:
Do-it-yourself putty on walls for painting
| Photo | Process Description |
 | First of all, using a wide spatula, like a scraper, we remove minor defects from the wall in the form of tubercles and sagging. |
 | As a rule, we check the evenness of the wall. |
 | We pay special attention to the corners. |
 | If there are bumps, remove them using a hammer drill with a chisel. |
 | We prime the wall with a roller or spray. |
 | We apply cement-sand mortar in corners throughout the vertical. |
 | The rule is to tighten the solution. |
 | We get this almost perfect and even angle. |
 | For puttying we will use dry polymer putty and a ready-made paste solution. |
 | We glue corner-forming tape onto the putty, which will help avoid the formation of cracks. |
 | Remove excess putty from the perforations. |
 | We use putty to remove the minimal differences between the flight deck and the wall. |
 | The result should be such a perfectly even angle. |
 | Now we prepare a putty solution from the dry polymer mixture. |
 | Apply putty solution to the wall. |
 | Apply the putty in a thin layer. |
 | After the first layer has dried, use a spatula to scrape off the slightest bumps and sagging. |
 | We apply the second layer of putty by installing a spotlight on the side, which helps to identify surface defects. |
 | After the second layer has dried, use a grater and a portable lamp to sand the wall. |
 | After sanding and removing dust, apply glue for fiberglass with a spray bottle, adding gray pigment to it. By the way, on a gray surface when applying white putty, it will be clearly visible where the solution was applied in insufficient quantities. |
 | We glue fiberglass to the wall and smooth it with a spatula. |
 | Apply a thin layer of ready-made super-finish putty mixture onto the fiberglass. |
 | After the putty has dried, sand the wall, prime and apply |
