How to fasten expanded clay concrete blocks. How to cut and drill expanded clay concrete blocks. General information about the material

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Which material is better to choose for building a house: environmentally friendly wood or the most modern options? Before you start work, you need to decide on the design of the house. It is worth considering that if it is complex, then it will be difficult to work with the timber. Let's consider all the pros and cons of timber and foam block.

The increase in popularity of foam concrete is associated with many factors, among which the need for energy saving is especially prominent. In the last few years, due to rising utility costs, this indicator has become especially popular.

There are two popular methods for producing foam concrete - classical and using barotechnology. When using the second method, the use of foaming agent increases, so foam concrete is not highly durable, but is lightweight. With the classical method, on the contrary, greater density and strength are obtained. But in any case, foam concrete is obtained, which is supplied into molds using a compressor unit.

Expanded clay concrete is a monolithic building material that, in addition to cement, also contains expanded clay. Expanded clay concrete blocks are produced by mixing sand, cement and expanded clay in water in an approximate ratio of 2:1:3.

The finished blocks have completely identical dimensions, which allows you to quickly erect walls, but during the construction process it is often necessary to carefully drill and/or trim them - for example, when creating door and window openings. Different tools are used, depending on the type of blocks, their purpose and quantity.

How to drill expanded clay concrete

Many “home” craftsmen claim that drilling expanded clay concrete is almost impossible, because this material literally crumbles in your hands. Blocks are actually easy to machine, but you just need to approach this process head on! Expanded clay concrete cannot be drilled in the same way as regular concrete block.

The special structure of expanded clay concrete blocks with voids does not mean that it will be possible to drill a hole only with cracks and chips. Of course, if you work on a block with a hammer drill with a large drill, then you obviously shouldn’t count on a neat hole. The hammer drill can be used, but only with the chiselling mode deactivated; A regular carbide-tipped drill will also work well. You can also use an impact drill, but only in cases where you need to get a through hole.

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Expanded clay blocks 3-hollow			Expanded clay blocks 8-slit
	20x20x40	per piece 42rub		20x20x40	per piece 45rub

How to make through holes

When drilling through expanded clay concrete blocks, there is a serious drawback that manifests itself in the form of chips and sometimes even entire craters at the exit of the drill. The reason lies in the creation of vibrations, because the process is accompanied by drill impacts; as soon as it approaches the return exit from the block, strong impacts will lead to large fragments of the block breaking off. To avoid this, you need to completely turn off the vibrations on the tool and drill the hole as usual. After a couple of successful attempts, you will understand how you can avoid large chips when forming holes.

How many partitions in the block need to be drilled?

Expanded clay concrete blocks usually have several partitions through which the drill passes. When drilling without impact, holes will be formed into which it is quite possible to insert an anchor bolt or dowel, and they will be able to perform the same functions as in a concrete wall. Here you just need to take into account the thickness of the internal partitions and the distance between them.

If the load on the anchor/dowel is minimal, then it will be enough to drill only the outer partition of the block. A thick model of expanded clay concrete block has a thickness of at least 40 mm, and about 10 mm is given to plaster. Total - 50 mm, which is enough to hang a shelf or mirror. If a more serious load is expected, then several internal partitions will additionally have to be drilled.

Specifications

Drilling into masonry joint

The length of the anchor or dowel is selected taking into account all the partitions of the block and their thickness. A simple calculation will allow you to securely secure not only a mirror in the hallway, but also a gas boiler and even a metal door. If the expected load is too large, then you can drill not only into the block itself, but also into the masonry joint. This way, the fit of the anchor will be maximum, which will make it possible to obtain high fastening strength. Drilling masonry joints is especially important when installing heating radiators and heavy metal doors.

If you need to cut one block, you can use a hand saw with a thick metal blade (the saw must have carbide tips). A hacksaw will be useful only when processing one or two blocks, but it will be difficult for one person to cut a bunch of products by hand.

1. Alligator power saw from DeWalt. The Alligator electric saw from DeWalt, specially designed for cutting brick, is widely known in construction. With this saw you can process large number blocks, but you just need to stock up on additional canvases first. An electric saw from DeWalt also works great with brick, so it is recommended for purchase by a professional mason, although its price is a bit steep.
2. Bulgarian. Cutting blocks using a grinder is the best way out of the situation. When sawing with a grinder, it is important to use segmented metal discs with diamond coating, which do not burst even with significant overheating. Note that when cutting with a grinder, the depth of the cut is limited, so the block is first cut around the perimeter to the maximum depth, after which it is split along the formed line. Despite this nuance, a person with minimal experience in handling an angle grinder short terms acquires effective cutting skills.

If you need to cut a block into two identical parts and the quality of the final surface is not important, then the product can not be cut, but simply split using an unnecessary wood saw and hammer. If you sequentially punch through the internal partition, you will end up with two front halves.

The ISOBLOCK company offers to purchase high-quality expanded clay concrete blocks made on its own equipment. In the manufacturing process of blocks, only impeccable raw materials are used, which constantly undergo laboratory tests. When ordering blocks wholesale and retail, you will get an excellent opportunity to save, because we are a manufacturer, not an intermediary, which gives savings of 20-30%.

Many novice builders are wondering what they can use to fasten expanded clay concrete blocks. The answer is simple - fastening occurs using a Mauerlat. The installation principle may differ depending on the characteristics of the material used.

What tools will you need for fastening?

• Drill, hammer, wood saw.
• Bolts, studs, screws and wire.
• Line and rope.
• Bars and boards (by size).
• Anchors (as required).

Types of fasteners for expanded clay concrete blocks

Application of anchors

This method involves inserting dowels into holes (wedge shape), which must be prepared in advance. Such fasteners can provide stability to the entire structure for many years. The dowels are pressed tightly into the expanded clay blocks, as the wedge actively expands. The only downside is that anchors are expensive.

Chemical

This method is the most reliable. This occurs due to the penetration of the chemical composition deep into the pores of the blocks, thus the Mauerlat is securely attached. The chemical that gets inside provides additional thermal insulation.

Application of metal studs

I use this method when I need to make fastenings to expanded clay blocks around the entire perimeter of the building, using the one-piece structure of the Mauerlat. To create a solid reinforced concrete belt, walls are laid with U-blocks, into which beams are driven, and additionally secured with washers and nuts.

Before you start fastening the Mauerlat, you need to understand what this element is and why it is needed. So, a Mauerlat is a wooden beam laid on the walls of a house to evenly distribute the load arising from the weight of the roof itself, as well as wind and snow loads. Thanks to a correctly laid mauerlat, these loads from beams or rafters and ceilings are distributed to the walls. to the house may vary depending on the material from which the house or cottage is built. For example, there is a distinction between fastening the Mauerlat to expanded clay concrete blocks, concrete blocks, brick walls, etc. This division is due to the presence of features during fastening.

The construction of the roof of any house should begin with the installation of the Mauerlat.

However, this rule does not apply to the construction of log roofs or frame houses- in these cases, the role of the Mauerlat is played by the upper rims of the logs or the upper beams. The most common timber thickness is 150x100 or 150x150 mm.

Justification of the need

The need to install a calculation and subsequent fastening of such a structure as the Mauerlat is justified theoretically. Construction publications note that if you design a house (its rafters) without taking into account the installation of the Mauerlat (or, as most often happens, simply install it “by eye” or guided by experience), the thrust will not be transferred to the walls.

General information about the material

Expanded clay concrete is a fundamentally new wall material thermal insulation material, which can be used both in load-bearing and enclosing structures. This material is one of 6 deeply improved types of concrete - the so-called.

Accordingly, expanded clay blocks are blocks made of expanded clay concrete. The main components of this material are cement, water, foamed and fired clay.

• by changing the proportions of the above components, the required density and strength can be achieved. The more cement added to the expanded clay mixture, the stronger and more durable the resulting block will be;
• in this case, the only drawback will be a proportional increase in thermal conductivity. In other words, the walls will become colder.

Today expanded clay concrete blocks almost completely replaced the previously used cinder blocks. They are great for inexpensively building a house. The process of making expanded clay concrete blocks is identical to the process of making cinder blocks.

The main difference is that the filler in the cinder blocks was blast furnace slag. Accordingly, the thermal conductivity of such blocks left much to be desired, as did the strength.

A house made of this material was very short-lived. Today, the parameters of such gas silicate blocks are an order of magnitude superior to cinder blocks in terms of these characteristics, being, in addition, environmentally friendly.

• Expanded clay blocks, having excellent strength characteristics, are suitable not only for low-rise construction. The house turns out warm and durable. At the same time, the characteristic through voids in these blocks make it possible to equip a hidden frame in the body of the wall, which dramatically increases the load-bearing capacity of the wall;
• The dimensions of gas silicate blocks are somewhat larger than double bricks (stones). Note that the laying of such blocks is no different from the laying of simple ceramic bricks, however, it is more convenient and easier, and it will take much less time to build a house.

Using expanded clay concrete blocks instead of bricks in low-rise construction (for example, to build private house) significantly reduces the cost of work - from 6 to 6 0%.

These blocks are perfectly combined with the vast majority of reinforced concrete products; building materials necessary to build a house; metal structures, window and door openings.

Mounting methods

It is considered optimal to mount this material flush with inner surface walls of the house. It is strictly not recommended to lay the Mauerlat on the house closer than 5-6 cm from the outer plane of the walls.

1. The Mauerlat must be attached to the wall of the building. In this case, it is recommended to make a protective fence for the Mauerlat outside, preferably from brickwork. We should not forget about waterproofing, it is necessary to protect the wood. You shouldn’t overdo it, two layers of roofing material will be enough.
2. There are several ways to directly attach a structure such as a Mauerlat to a house. If the walls are brick, wooden blocks are built into the masonry several (2-3) rows below the top row of the wall.
3. It is to these bars that the Mauerlat will subsequently be fastened using staples. When constructing roofs for houses built from expanded clay concrete or foam concrete, gas silicate blocks, a reinforced concrete belt should be made under the roof.
4. When pouring this belt, it is necessary to insert threaded rods into it. After this, holes are drilled in the Mauerlat beams for these studs and beams are installed directly on them, which are pulled to the walls of the house with nuts and washers.

The most common are studs with a diameter of 1 2 - 1 6 mm. They must be installed at least every 1.6-2 m.

There is also fastening of the Mauerlat to the house using studs, intended for brick walls. So, during the construction of walls, studs are embedded in the brickwork so that the depth is at least 3 rows of bricks.

To save money, instead of studs, it is recommended to embed simple reinforcement, welding nuts to it by welding. In the same row of brickwork where the studs (reinforcement) are embedded into the house, it is necessary to insert thick (3-6 mm) steel wire, the ends of which must be of sufficient length to tie the Mauerlat.

Note that often during the installation of a structure such as a Mauerlat, it becomes necessary to splice the beams together. This is done by cutting the beams into half a tree, and then fastening them with bolts or nails.

1. One of the most popular recently is the fastening of the Mauerlat, which uses exclusively edged boards measuring 50x150 mm (usually up to 60 x 160 mm).
2. Initially, you need to lay out one row of boards on the walls, and then secure them to the house using anchor screws (not bolts, since their heads will protrude). The length of the anchors must be at least 20 cm.
3. Holes in reinforced concrete belt or brickwork are done using a hammer drill, having first drilled the board with a regular drill. Then you need to lay out the next row of boards on the house, nailing them to the first row using simple 100 mm nails.
4. The joints of the boards should be made in other places, thus performing the dressing. In the corners, the boards also need to be laid with a bandage. The result will be a Mauerlat with a thickness of 100 mm, which is quite enough.

This method of attaching a mauerlat to a house, especially to expanded clay concrete blocks, is popular for several reasons. First of all, it is much easier to lift boards to a height than bars. The next reason is that there is no need to cut half a tree.

Fastening with metal studs

To perform fastening to aerated concrete, use a one-piece Mauerlat structure laid around the perimeter of the entire roof. The laying of walls from these blocks is completed with U-blocks designed to create a solid reinforced concrete belt.

1. Therefore, the studs are installed in the U-blocks before they are filled with concrete (under the rope). Setting the studs at the same level allows fastening to be done more quickly and smoothly.
2. Before laying the timber, holes are made in it. They must coincide exactly with the installation locations of the studs. To mark such places, the timber is laid out on studs, after which it is hit with a sledgehammer.
3. After the holes are ready, the timber is put on the studs and hammered. The Mauerlat placed on the studs can also be secured using nuts and washers. In this case, the number of studs, as well as the distance between them, must be taken into account before installation, so that the places of these fastenings (rafters - Mauerlat) do not coincide with the places of fastenings with a reinforced concrete belt.

The number of rafter legs must match the number of studs. The height of the studs above the reinforced concrete belt should be equal to the cross-section of the beam plus 4-6 cm (for fastening with a washer).

Mechanical anchors

In this case, fastening is carried out using wedge anchors. Wedge dowels, which have harpoon-type teeth on the outside, as well as a cut along the central axis, are inserted into the prepared holes.

After securing the dowel and installing the fastening element into it, expansion occurs, due to which the teeth are pressed into the expanded clay concrete. This method is considered the most reliable.

However, its significant disadvantage is its high cost (one anchor can cost up to 3 6 0 0 rubles).

Chemical method

Chemical fastening is one of the cheapest methods. The cost of one capsule for fastening is approximately 1 6 0 rubles. Thanks to the fact that it is active chemical element penetrates into the pores, the Mauerlat is securely attached to the aerated concrete.

The substance that gets inside the aerated concrete improves the quality of its surface layer, providing additional heat and waterproofing.

Tools for work

To fasten the Mauerlat to your home, you will need the following tools and materials:

• drill;
• screws;
• hairpins;
• strong (preferably steel) wire;
• fishing line (rope);
• boards (beams) of the required sizes;
• anchors (calculation of their quantity is described above);
• a standard set of construction tools (hammer, wood saw, etc.).

To attach the Mauerlat to expanded clay concrete blocks, it is necessary to use exceptionally high quality materials: the wood must be free of knots, and the waterproofing must be free of damage.

To perform quality work, it is better to use professional tools. We should not forget about the importance of the accuracy of preliminary calculations, because without them the highest quality work will not ensure reliable fastening of the Mauerlat to the expanded clay concrete blocks.

The roof can be compared to a large sail. Therefore, it is better to spend a little time ensuring reliable fastening so that even in the event of a strong wind the roof does not even move against the walls of the house.

Particular attention should be paid to this moment by everyone who has country house. A dacha made of expanded clay concrete blocks is often incorrectly classified as temporary housing, which is why due attention is not paid to the correct arrangement of its roof.

CHEMICAL ANCHOR BIT-PESF (foam concrete, aerated concrete, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, sand-lime brick)

300 ml

Description

Chemical anchor BIT-PESF - a highly effective two-component chemical composition based on a synthetic, fast-curing polyester resin that does not contain styrene and is odorless in combination with metal anchor elements (threaded rods, bolts, reinforcing rods, etc.). Chemical anchors BIT-PESF are specially designed for anchoring in various types cellular concrete blocks (aerated concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, etc.), lightweight concrete and sand-lime brick, taking into account the physical and mechanical properties, strength characteristics and thermal expansion coefficients of this class of building materials. Most effective way implementation of fastening in cellular concrete and hollow materials in comparison with all known types of expansion dowels and anchors. The load-bearing capacity of the fastening depends only on the strength of the base material.

Load-bearing capacity is, on average, 20% higher compared to chemical anchor BIT-PE (polyester).

The chemical anchor BIT-PESF has increased viscosity, which allows, when installing anchors in hollow materials using mesh sleeves, to optimally fill the voids, providing better adhesion to internal partitions, while eliminating excess consumption of the composition, reducing the cost of fastening and increasing economic efficiency.

When using metal mesh sleeves BIT-MS The embedment depth of the chemical anchor can vary according to the selected embedment depth of the threaded rod. As the embedment depth increases, the load-bearing capacity of the chemical anchor increases.

Chemical anchor BIT-PESF is an environmentally neutral product. Does not contain toxic components and does not require a special disposal procedure for used packaging in accordance with environmental standards of the European Union.

Advantages:

• specially designed for use in cellular concrete wall blocks AEROC, YTONG, BIKTON, H+H, BONOLIT, AEROSTONE, ECO, etc.
• Can be used in solid or hollow ceramic brick, concrete and natural stone
• as an anchor you can use any metal threaded rods, anchor bolts, screws, pins and flexible connections (including glass and basalt plastic)
• allows installation of anchors close to the edge of the structure
• does not create stress in the base material
• it is possible to apply high loads at small distances between the axes of the fastenings and from the edge of the structure
• composition color – gray (concrete color)
• 300 ml cartridge - does not require special equipment, a standard silicone sealant gun is used
• each cartridge is equipped with two mixers
• environmentally neutral product
• odorless
• highly resistant to aggressive environments, acids and alkalis
• tests were carried out at TsNIISK named after. V.A. Kucherenko

Regulatory and permitting documentation:

• European technical approval ETA-13/0143 (use in masonry)
• Technical certificate ITB AT-15-6900/2011 (Institute of Construction Technology)
• Quality certificate SOCOTEC QUALITE CAZ 0834/1 (France)
• Technical certificate of the Ministry of Regional Development of the Russian Federation No. 3440-11
• Research of strength and deformability (TsNIISK named after V.A. Kucherenko)
• Frost resistance tests (TsNIISK named after V.A. Kucherenko)
• Certificate of conformity ROSS GB.AYA.46.N64023 (chemical compositions)
• Certificate of conformity ROSS GB.AYA.46.N64113 (anchor elements)
• Certificate of state registration RU.40.01.05.015.E06049.08.12

Cure time and chemical setting time

Base temperature (С°)	Setting time 1 (minutes)	Curing time 2 (minutes)

1 - the anchor is installed in the hole, its position can be adjusted

2 - complete curing of the composition, application of load is possible

Geometric characteristics of anchor fastenings when installed in a base made of heavy concrete B20 (C20/25)

Anchor diameter, d(mm)	Hole diameter dO(mm)	Hole diameter in attached structural element, d f(mm)	Standard depth Seals, L o(mm)	Tinst(Nm)
M10
M12
M16
M20
M24

Performance characteristics of anchor fastenings at standard depth embedding into the base of heavy concrete B20 (C20/25)

Anchor diameter,d (mm)	(kN)		(kN)		(kN)		Standard edge distance (mm)		Standard distance between anchor axes, C bw (mm)
	To break out(N Rk)	Shear (V Rk)	To break out (N c al)	To cut (V cal)	To break out(Nr)	Shear (V r)	To break out(C a,N)	For cutting(C a,V)
	19,9		12,7
M10	27,6	15,7	12,1	12,0			100
M12	38,1	22,0	16,8	16,8	12,0	12,0
M16	54,7	40,9	24,1	31,2	17,3	22,3
M20	86,4	64,0	38,1	48,8	27,2	34,9
M24	108,0	92,4	47,6	70,4	34,0	50,3

* The load-bearing capacity is reduced if the standard distances from the edge/between the axes of the anchors are reduced. The corresponding safety factors must be taken into account (see BIT technical catalogue)

Performance characteristics of anchors in foundations made of masonry materials (foam/aerated concrete, sand-lime brick)

Anchor diameter, d (mm)	Shear load (N r) or pullout load (V r) * (kN)
	Masonry made of cellular concrete blocks B2.5 (D600)	Masonry made of solid sand-lime brick M200
M8	5,5-11,2	12,8-16,6
M10	4,6-10,6	23,8-28,4
M12		43,0-45,0
M16		58,0-84,0

* loads are given as a guide and require clarification in each specific case, depending on the base material and the depth of embedding of the chemical anchor.

Detailed information about all products, operating conditions and design is contained in the BIT technical catalogue.

Attention! Chemical composition developed on the basis of its own unique technology and is the company’s “know-how” BIT United Ltd. All indicators are given only for chemical anchors of the BIT brand. Technical information on strength characteristics, load-bearing capacity and safety factors does not apply to products from other manufacturers.

Aerated concrete is a lightweight and warm material, which explains its popularity both in the construction of residential buildings and in the construction of non-residential premises. Alas, lightweight concrete, which includes aerated concrete, gas silicate and foam concrete, also has its drawbacks. The main one is that fasteners intended for other materials, such as wood or brick, do not hold well in a wall made of aerated concrete.

It is often necessary to ensure reliable fastening of heavy objects to aerated concrete; these can be boilers, sinks, furniture elements, etc. In these cases, it is necessary to ensure reliable fastening. Some builders use ordinary anodized screws, but alas, the screw can be easily pulled out of lightweight concrete. Ordinary dowel-nails do not provide reliable fastening either, since they only hold securely in walls made of hard materials, such as sand-lime brick.

For these reasons, special anchors and dowels are used for fastening to lightweight concrete.

Anchors and dowels work on the same principle - they are securely fixed in the wall due to expansion. Conventionally, it will be assumed that the anchor is made of metal and is an independent element. The dowel is most often made of nylon and is a “plug” into which a screw or self-tapping screw can be screwed. IN Soviet times, similar plugs were made of wood.

Dowels for lightweight concrete

SORMAT KBT dowels differ from ordinary ones in that they have a thread on their surface. As with a regular dowel, a hole is drilled, then the dowel is screwed in using a hex wrench. After this, you can screw in a screw or self-tapping screw.

Nylon dowel for lightweight concrete SORMAT KBT 8. Please note that there is a thread along the entire length of the dowel

The video below shows how to screw SORMAT dowels into a wall made of aerated concrete and expanded clay concrete blocks.

You can use fiberglass-reinforced nylon dowels that do not require drilling holes.

There are dowels that have screw ribs instead of external threads.

The GB dowel is driven into the aerated concrete using a hammer, and then a screw is screwed into it. The process is shown in the video below.

Dowels for aerated concrete can be either nylon or metal.

Metal dowel for aerated concrete and gas silicate

Anchors for aerated concrete and gas silicate blocks

As mentioned above, the anchor is an independent element. As a rule, it consists of a hollow tube and a pin inserted into it.

If you were unable to find dowels and anchors intended for aerated concrete in stores, then you can buy ordinary dowels, but not with two longitudinal slots, but with four. In this situation, when the screw is tightened, the dowel is deformed (twisted) in such a way that coupling ribs are formed (see video).

Self-tapping screws for aerated concrete and gas silicate

Self-tapping screws for lightweight concrete should provide reliable adhesion. As a rule, this is ensured by large threads.

Self-tapping screw for lightweight concrete

The video below shows how to attach a wooden sheathing to a wall made of expanded clay concrete blocks and a wall made of aerated concrete blocks using SORMAT KBRM screws.

Please note that the screw must go into the wall at least 60 mm, i.e. not the entire length of the thread. When screwing in screws, it is necessary to use a tool that allows you to control the tightening force. If you overtighten the screw, it will not stay firmly in the wall. As a last resort, in order not to overdo it, you can use a screwdriver.