Do-it-yourself sliding doors on rollers: installing doors and rollers for sliding doors correctly. Installation of sliding doors: step-by-step instructions Sliding door diagram

What motivates you when you create your cozy nest? The desire to stand out, follow fashion trends, or simply the desire to use space practically? If everything together makes sense to you, then setting sliding doors– this is the optimal design solution. By choosing the type of product suitable for your interior, you will create a real oasis of home comfort, where you will want to return again and again.

Types of sliding door designs

Thanks to the ingenuity and ingenuity of manufacturers, the range of sliding products is so large that even the most picky buyer will find something for himself. suitable option. The products are not similar to each other in shape, design, dimensions and the raw materials from which they are made.

When choosing a design special attention consumers pay attention to the latter distinctive feature– material. For the production of products the following are used:

• wood;
• glass;
• mirror;
• plastic;
• metal.

Products made from natural wood are, as they say, classics of the genre. They can give a sophisticated look to even the simplest interior.. From time immemorial, good wood has been a symbol of wealth and luxury. The high cost of the product is justified by durability, practicality, and beauty.

Wooden sliding doors are durable and reliable in operation

Doors made of glass and mirrors are preferable for small spaces. They visually enlarge the room, making it feel much more spacious. When choosing these types of products, you do not need to worry about their fragility. They are made of high-strength materials that are not subject to mechanical stress.

MDF products are a budget alternative to wood. For many years they do not lose their presentable appearance and captivate with their light weight, ease of installation. A significant drawback is their instability to moisture. Therefore, such products are not recommended for installation in the bathroom or toilet.

MDF door systems are an affordable analogue to wooden products

Plastic sliding structures are no less popular among consumers. They are resistant to deformation, temperature changes, moisture, and ultraviolet rays. Doors with a protective decorative coating will last for many years without requiring special care.

Sliding systems are also made of metal. Such devices can be found in pawnshops, banks, and jewelry stores. However, the imagination of designers is limitless, so they found ways to use such products in country houses and even apartments. At the request of clients, the metal can be decorated with patterns that give the product lightness and texture.

In private homes you can install metal sliding doors

Installation methods

Sliding systems are divided into two large classes: sliding-folding and parallel-sliding. In folding structures, the doors do not move along the wall, but move to the side and fold in the shape of an accordion or book.

In parallel-sliding systems, the blades move along a vertical surface. According to installation methods there are:

• compartment doors;
• cassette or built-in;
• cascading.

Sliding doors can be single-leaf or double-leaf. The canvases move along a vertical surface on rails in one or different directions. Compartment designs are perfect for bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens, balconies, and closets.

You can install sliding doors yourself

Installation of this type of product is quite simple and is quite within the capabilities of a novice master. They can be installed both during repair work and after. The main requirements are a smooth opening and the ability of the wall to withstand the expected load.

Along with a huge number of advantages, this system has negative aspects. Considering that the canvases move tightly along the wall, it is impossible to place furniture near it.

In addition, compartment products do not protect the room from sounds and odors. This is due to the design features. To prevent the doors from touching the vertical surface, small gaps are provided on both sides.

Cassette products, like compartment ones, can be made of one or two doors. The peculiarity of this model is the presence of a niche in the wall where the canvases are rolled up. The cassette design provides a high degree of sound insulation due to the fact that it is possible to install seals around the perimeter of the opening.

Cassette sliding door provides high sound insulation

If we talk about the disadvantages of cassette doors, the most significant of them is the installation of the structure only during repairs. The second disadvantage of the model is the installation of a false wall under the pencil case at the expense of additional centimeters of space.

Cascade structures consist of one or more doors and are considered a type compartment doors. The number of guides corresponds to the number of panels that, when opened, are assembled on one side of the vertical surface.

Cascade door - a type of sliding door

Installation of this model is not easy. It includes many parts that require high-precision installation. Only experienced craftsmen, because there is practically no room for error here.

Classification by mechanism type

There are two large groups of devices.

Hanging system

A suspension device is a supporting beam to which a U-shaped guide is fixed.. It is along it that the door leaf or, in technical terms, a hanging door moves on rollers.

Installation of such a door assumes that the floor covering remains intact. Only on the right or left side of the opening is a roller mounted from below. It rides along a groove made in the lower end of the blade. The main function of the roller is to prevent vertical deflection of the product during movement.

Suspension system design

Installing the suspension system is not difficult. Installation is carried out in several steps:

1. fixing the top guide;
2. installation of a roller device on top at the end of the door;
3. installation of the sash in the guide;
4. fixing limiters designed to prevent the track from derailing.
5. making a groove in the lower end of the product, securing the roller.

Suspended structures perform a purely symbolic role as an interior partition. They do not protect the room from odors and do not provide adequate insulation from noise.

Rail sliding system

Rail structures are used in closets, dressing rooms, bedrooms, and living rooms. This type of mechanism is represented by two rails located at the top and bottom.

The rail system is characterized by high strength

This design is characterized by durability. The door is firmly fixed in a vertical plane and does not allow smells and noises to pass through. The imperfection of the system is that cleaning is difficult, since the bottom rail periodically becomes clogged.

After weighing all the pros and cons of each system, choose the most suitable one for yourself and begin the step-by-step installation process.

Required tools and materials

When assembling sliding structures, make sure you have the required tools and materials. To work you will need a whole set:

• electric drill or screwdriver;
• hammer drill if necessary to remove the inner layer of the wall;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• overhead strips – 2 pcs. One of them is mounted at the top, and the other is mounted opposite the side in which the valves open.
• anchors;
• self-tapping screws;
• handles for blades – 2 units;
• finishing nails;
• two extras;
• a stand to which the doors are adjacent when in the closed position;
• accessories: rollers, fasteners, aluminum rails;
• canvas. To determine its dimensions, measure the height and width of the opening and add 70 mm to them on top;
• wooden beam with a section of 50x70 mm. The length of the beam is equal to 2 times the width of the sash plus 5 centimeters.

Armed with everything you need, move on to the next block of work.

Installation instructions for sliding doors

Only a a true professional. A novice master, having taken on such responsibility, is capable of making many rash actions, which will later prove costly.

Therefore, if this is your first time encountering sliding structures, start from the very beginning. simple option– assemblies of compartment doors. If you purchase a ready-made kit, you will save a lot of time and effort. The kit contains all the components for installing the sliding system, including fittings.

When starting work, you should be extremely careful and careful. The whole process begins with preparing the opening. The quality of installation depends on how accurately its measurements are made.

The height of the opening is determined in several places: the right, middle and left sides are measured. Its width is measured in the same way. Then check how perpendicular and straight all sides are. When installing platbands, measure the thickness of the vertical surface in several places and in the corners of the opening.

The height of the opening is measured in several places

To avoid mistakes when installing sliding doors with your own hands, carefully follow these instructions. Break the whole process into blocks and gradually move from one to another.

Removing the old door

Free the box from cashing, remove the old door leaf and door hinges, and then dismantle the box itself. However, you can leave it alone if it holds well and does not interfere with the doors moving freely on the rails.

At the first stage, the old door frame is dismantled

Preparing the opening

If necessary, eliminate the curvature of the walls, seal the gaps and cracks with putty.

The contours of the opening should be smooth, so make sure that there are no bricks or drywall sticking out anywhere.

Check how parallel and horizontal the part of the opening is from the top to the floor covering. The maximum maximum deviation is allowed up to 5 mm. This is also mandatory for the sides of the opening. Here the tolerance is a maximum of 0.5 cm per 2 m.

After dismantling the old box, a new one is installed. It is leveled with small wedges. Adjust the angle of the structure relative to the floor covering and vertical surface by moving or pressing the wedges.

Wooden wedges are used to level the door frame

Secure the box with screws. When working with a screwdriver, you must be extremely careful so as not to damage the product.

Installation of the upper guides

After placing the box, place the door against the opening and mark its top border. Repeat this action again, placing the product in the opening. This is only necessary if the floor is not very level.

Installing the Top Rail

If the straight line turns out to be horizontal, measure 0.7 cm from it and draw another line. It will be installed on it in the future wooden beam. To fasten the beam, take enough screws so that it fits tightly to the vertical surface.

The rail is fixed to the lower end of the beam. First, it is slightly screwed on one side. To accurately determine the location of the screw, the thickness of the leaf is divided by two and added from 0.3 to 0.5 cm, which are necessary for the smooth movement of the sashes. Follow the same principle on the other side.

Before fixing the guide, make sure it is straight.

Before the rail is finally fixed, make sure that the gap between the canvas and the wall is sufficient. Also pay attention to the straightness of the guide. No kinks or curvatures should be allowed, otherwise the structure will not work properly.

Assembling carriages and installing limiters

Moving on to installing the sliding door rollers, insert the bolts into the carriages so that they protrude slightly from the hole. Run the carriages into the rails prepared for them and make sure that they move smoothly.

The next step is to install the carriages

Stoppers should be installed at both ends of the guides to prevent the canvas from leaving the rails. In this case, make sure that the rubber shock absorbers are directed inward.

Making a groove at the bottom of the door leaf

To make a recess in the lower end of the sash, step back 1.5 cm from its edge on both sides and drill one hole with a radius of 3.5 mm and a depth of 2 cm. Between them, in the center, select a groove for the guide.

A groove for the guide is selected in the center of the sash

The depth of the recess should be 1.8 cm, and the width should be 0.3 cm greater than the width of the guide, which is a flag or a knife. Taking into account that it is not easy to make a completely even groove, it is recommended to mount two slats or a profile in the shape of the letter “P”.

Fasteners for carriages

Moving two millimeters away from the side borders of the sash, fix the fasteners to the carriages exactly in the middle. Important point: The semicircular cutouts on the brackets should be directed toward the wall.

Hanging the door leaf

You won't be able to install the door alone, so call someone to help. Once you find an assistant, start doing the following:

1. Place the product against the rail and connect the carriage bolt on the right with the cutout on the bracket, while lifting the blade.
2. Place the end of the bolt into the hole of the adjusting nut and washer.
3. Lightly tighten the brackets onto the carriage bolts.
4. We proceed to installing the bottom rail into the recess. To do this, move the lower part from the vertical surface, install the canvas horizontally and move it to the open state.
5. Measure the maximum opening length and mark it with a simple pencil.
6. Establish a gap between the sashes and the vertical surface. To do this, move the lower part of the blade and put a mark at the location of the knife. The distance should be no more than 0.5 cm.
7. Remove the canvas and tighten the guide from below to the floor covering with two self-tapping screws.
8. Align the notch in the end of the canvas with the rail and hang the products without screwing the nuts all the way.
9. Set the gap between floor covering and the product, tightening or loosening the adjustment bolts on the carriages.
10. Secure the nuts without allowing the bolts to turn.

Decorative design

To hide the rails at the top of the opening, platbands are used for decorative purposes. The lock and handle are installed at the end.

Features of installing cassette doors

The above instructions can be used as a guide for installing guide rails. When installing this model, there is no need for decorative finishing. Instead, an additional false wall is installed.

When installing cassette doors, a false wall is installed

The distance between the false wall and the vertical surface is approximately 10 cm. It is calculated based on the thickness of the sash, the gaps on both sides and the size of the profile.

The frame made of profiles does not require reinforcement, since most load falls on the wall. But if you want to give the structure rigidity, then install wooden blocks inside and secure them with self-tapping screws.

Installing sliding doors is not a very complicated process, but it requires certain skills in construction. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to invite a master. This way you can avoid double work in case of an error or save an extra penny.

An excellent option for any apartment or house would be the installation of sliding interior doors. They can replace conventional swing doors and save space. With their help, you can effectively and beautifully divide the space of a large room by installing them in the right place from wall to wall. Having decided on the design and shape of the doors, you need to purchase all the necessary parts, starting with the door leaf and ending with all the small details of the fittings and subsequent finishing. How to install a sliding interior door with your own hands is best considered using the example of the simplest design with one solid door leaf. During the description of each stage, the nuances of installing other possible systems will also be described.

Getting ready for installation

Before installing the door, you should put the opening itself in order and decide on which side of the doorway the sliding doors will be attached.

Look at your usual route from the entrance to the apartment and to the outermost rooms. For aesthetic reasons, it is better to make the sliding door mechanism from the side of the room you enter. This is especially true for doors that are not hidden in the wall or behind a false panel. However, in view of the fact that the space where the door leaf is retracted cannot be occupied by furniture and things, in the case of a passage from the corridor to the room, it is more logical to mount the entire structure from the corridor side. There is not much furniture in it.

Sliding door installation process

1. Installation of guides

The first step is to install sliding doors yourself by applying markings on the walls to further secure the guides.

If you use the bottom guide, it must be deepened into the floor. It is advisable to think about this at the stage of installing the floor covering so that the guide is secured to the very base of the floor (concrete screed). You can check the horizontality of the guide using a level.

The top guide profile is installed next. The reference line should mark the position of the bottom edge of the guide. The height of its placement is equal to the height of the door leaf and an increase of 15-20 mm for the lower gap to the floor and the upper gap from the door leaf to the guide. The last parameter can be determined from the instructions supplied with the fittings. Typically 10-20 mm to access the adjusting nuts on the door holders.

It is necessary to strictly observe the horizontal installation of the guide, otherwise the door will subsequently begin to spontaneously shift towards the inclination. You can check the correctness of its placement using a building or water level.

The length of the guide is twice the width of the door leaf plus 4-5 cm of reserve for its normal movement. The margin for installing plugs and the space for the closer, if any, are also taken into account.

Example of a sliding door delivery package

Typically, brackets are used to secure the top track, but for solid doors made of solid wood or glass, the structure will need to be reinforced. To do this, it is better to use a wooden beam measuring 50x50 mm or wider, depending on the width of the guide profile, which will be securely attached to the wall, and the guide will be narrower to the beam. In the case when the door is installed on a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to provide an additional profile in the wall frame and attach the guide to it or in close proximity using plasterboard anchors. If the wall is monolithic or brickwork, then dowels are used (in the case of brickwork holes for dowels are located in the volume of the brick, and not between them). Additional strengthening and use of a base in the form of a beam or profile is even more important if a sliding compartment door or multi-sectional options are installed, which involve the use of a guide with several grooves.

2. Fastening holders to the door leaf, fittings (handles, locks)

The next step is to attach brackets to the door leaf, with which it will hold onto the roller carriages. They must be installed following the instructions, along the sides of the upper end of the door, retreating 1 cm from the edge. The best option for any type of sliding doors, except in the case where the holder will be in the form of a clamp on the sides of the door leaf. For all-glass doors, special fastenings are used in the form of metal plates with rubber backings, between which the edge of the glass is clamped. Such grips eliminate the need to make holes in the glass.

When assembling the accordion door, holder brackets with a rotating roller are installed on each section. Most often, each section is secured in the central part, but it can also be secured along the edges of the sections. In this case, on the first section the staple is held by one edge, and on the next by the opposite edge. This is how the positions on all components alternate.

At the same stage, you can install the necessary elements into the door leaf, such as handles and locks. It is better to postpone the installation of the lock mates on the doorway until later; you still have to hang the door on the guide and adjust it. It should be noted that for doors that will completely extend into the wall space, handles and all fittings are selected and installed deep into the door leaf and do not protrude beyond its dimensions.

It is better to install brush seals on the bottom or side end of the door after the first installation of the door on the guides and their adjustment.

3. Installation of the door leaf

Having secured the guide and the necessary elements to the door leaf, you can carry out a control installation to adjust the levels and check the steps already completed. For this stage, you will need an assistant who will support the blade while you insert the carriages with rollers into the groove of the guide. If a partition door is installed to divide the space of a room and the guide is fixed from wall to wall, the carriages are inserted into the guide in advance, which has a special window for this. Fastening the door leaf in this case comes down to joining the bracket holders on the door and the anchor extending from the carriage.

4. Installation of limiters and closers

The limiters will prevent the movement of the door leaf along the guides and will prevent carriages with rollers from falling out of it. It is important to correctly distribute the stops, especially if it is a multi-section or folding door. Stoppers will prevent the structure of such products from coming together too tightly, thereby damaging the connection between sections. Plugs made in the shape of the guide profile or as studs, which are inserted into the guide in the required places, can be used as a limiter. It is advisable to choose limiters with special stops made of soft plastic or rubber. With them, there will be no constant sound of impacts when opening, and the moving parts of the doors will work longer.

5. Fastening platbands and extensions

The trims cover the sliding door mechanism to protect them from dust and debris and to give an aesthetic appearance. This is not relevant for doors built into the wall or behind a false panel. In this case, only corners are installed on the edges of the walls with brush seals to close the gap between them and the door leaf.

Installation of platbands is carried out on brackets pre-screwed to the wall or to the guide itself using latches. This option does not leave any visible fasteners on the outside.

A boundary structure is installed against which the door will rest when closed. This can be either a wooden beam with the necessary finishing, or a special profile, which is purchased along with the rest of the fittings. It is installed strictly vertically, using a plumb line. The counter part of the locking mechanism of the door lock will be installed in this profile. Its installation should be postponed until the door is completely installed on the guides and adjusted.

6. Check and final adjustment of the door

Since previously the door guides were installed strictly horizontally, which prevents spontaneous opening or closing of doors, the position of the door leaf is adjusted to a greater extent for visually correct perception. The door should fit snugly and evenly against the boundary structure and move parallel to the floor surface. Using this setting, you can visually eliminate some unevenness or distortions of the floor or walls by adjusting the average position of the door leaf.

Having completed all installation work, the ease of movement of the door and the operation of the locking fittings are checked. If everything works fine, then the installation was successful.

Installing sliding interior doors can save space in apartments and private houses when owners want to expand their living space. You can install the structure yourself if the owner of the house has carpentry skills and necessary tools.

There are several types of design:

• sliding;
• cascade;
• folding;
• radius sliding.

• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

Making sliding doors with your own hands is easier than other types of partitions. This is due to the simplicity of the design, shape, installation of the canvas and installation of fittings. Depending on the width of the opening, the sliding door device consists of 1 or 2 panels that move along special rails along the wall. Partitions can be independently made from different materials.

Advantages and disadvantages

An interior single-leaf or multi-leaf door has the following advantages:

1. saves room space;
2. visually increases the size of the room;
3. there is no threshold;
4. You can divide a large room into zones.

The disadvantages include:

• poor sound insulation;
• the need to monitor the cleanliness of the rail;
• easy penetration of odors between rooms;
• the need for precise adjustment of all structural elements.

Before you learn how to make a sliding door, you need to prepare materials and tools.

Materials and tools

You will need the following tools:

1. tape measure, ruler, square and pencil;
2. jigsaw or circular saw;
3. screwdriver;
4. drill;
5. drills of different diameters for wood and concrete;
6. self-tapping screws;
7. roller mechanisms;
8. construction plumb and level;
9. milling machine;
10. sandpaper or sander;
11. chisel and hammer.

Canvases can be made from the following materials:

• plain or laminated chipboard;
• tempered glass;
• solid wood;
• combination of several materials.

The weight of the structure depends on the material of manufacture. To install sliding doors with your own hands, you need to select mechanisms based on this indicator. The material for the door leaf is selected based on the owner’s budget and the functional purpose of the door.

How to make sliding doors with your own hands?

To make glass partitions, you need skills to work with this material. If they are missing, you should contact a professional. To work with glass you need special tools that are expensive.

It is necessary to consider how to assemble a sliding door made of wood. This material is easy to process, stronger and more reliable, has better sound insulation, frame products weigh less than solid wood, and panels can be made if desired.

Design Features

Before starting work, you should draw up a diagram or drawing of the structure and indicate all the parameters. The design of sliding doors can have one or more leaves depending on the size of the opening. You can make a solid canvas or with panels from different material. Depending on the weight of the structure, the door can be suspended or on roller mechanisms.

Sometimes a product is installed that slides deep into the wall. To do this, dismantle part of the partition and make a niche from plasterboard.

Preparatory work

Before making a sliding door with your own hands, you should prepare the material. Boards or bars must be processed with a plane and sanded with sandpaper or a sander. You should also prepare a shield if you plan to have a hollow door inside. It is worth deciding in advance on the method of attaching the boards. Common connections are:

1. half a tree;
2. tongue and groove

Measurements and markings

When making a door on rollers with your own hands, you must take into account that the door leaf should be several centimeters larger than the opening on each side. If the passage does not exceed 80 cm in width, then a single-leaf door is made. When the opening width exceeds 1 m, 2 panels are made. All dimensions are transferred to beams or boards.

Manufacturing

To make frame sliding doors with your own hands, you need to make a frame. Pre-prepared beams are cut according to the drawing. If the structure includes panels, recesses are made in the inner part of the frame and lintels using a milling machine into which the inserts will be mounted.

The joints of boards or beams are coated with wood glue or PVA. Wood should be treated with an antiseptic to protect the material from rotting and harmful effects insects Additionally, the structure is coated with fire retardants, which prevent the wood from quickly igniting.

To make a sliding door mechanism with your own hands, you will need:

• upper and lower guides along which the canvas will move;
• a wooden beam to which the top rail is attached;
• rollers and fastenings corresponding to the weight of the structure;
• clamps that prevent the web from coming out of the rails.

Paneled

First, a frame is made from solid boards or laminated veneer lumber. The cross members and the mullion are made from this material. On the inside, the timber is processed with a milling cutter, making a groove for the panels. If you make a shaped cut, you don’t have to use glazing beads. When it is planned to install the latter, the surface near the groove is made smooth.

Vertical and horizontal elements are connected to each other using a tongue and groove. The tenon is cut out in the transverse parts. It should fit into the groove up to half the width of the beam. The recess is adjusted to the dimensions of the tenon so that the parts fit tightly into each other.

The panels can be:

1. glass;
2. plywood;
3. thin boards, etc.

Inserts can be smooth or have a textured surface. In the second case, plywood or boards are used, which are processed with a milling machine. The edges of the product should be 1-2 mm smaller than the groove in the frame. This will allow the panels to move freely. When all the elements are ready, they are treated with antiseptics.

Assemble the entire structure on the table to avoid distortions. The joints are coated with glue. First, all the crossbars and panels are inserted into one longitudinal beam, then the second vertical beam is glued. The beads are installed after assembling the entire structure and are fixed with glue.

Panel

This structure can be solid, small-hollow or hollow. The first type consists of a frame and boards that are laid between the vertical elements. Hollow and shallow-hollow contain transverse elements that give rigidity to the entire structure.

First, a frame is made according to the size of the canvas. To do this, cut a beam with a section of 30x120 mm according to the drawing. The elements are connected to each other by fastening in half a tree or in a paw. The surfaces are coated with glue and clamped with clamps. It is necessary to ensure that the internal angles are 90°.

After the glue has dried, the joints are additionally secured with dowels. To do this, make holes of 7-9 mm and insert pins pre-treated with glue into them. Then one side of the frame should be covered. The material chosen is plywood or fiberboard, which is cut to the size of the frame. The facing material is fixed with glue.

If the structure is solid, then the frame is filled with timber, pieces of MDF or other low-quality wood. All parts are glued together and additionally glued to the facing sheet. In the frame of hollow or hollow-core doors, cross members are installed, which are fixed with glue to the sidewalls and facing material. The second sheet is installed only after the glue has completely dried.

How to install a sliding door?

The installation of sliding doors may vary depending on the design features. Installation involves the following steps:

• doorway preparation;
• fastening guide elements;
• installation of the canvas;
• insertion of handles.

To ensure proper installation, you must follow the sliding door installation instructions exactly.

Preparing the interior opening

First of all, you need to prepare the opening. If the canvas moves along the wall, you should remove all protruding elements, level the surface, and fill the cracks. The canvas should move without obstacles. Since the design does not provide for luting, the walls are plastered. The opening should be as even and smooth as possible.

If you plan to install a sliding door inside the partition, you should dismantle part of the wall. To do this, increase the opening by the width of the door leaf, and then install a plasterboard niche. The partition should fit into the wall so that only a small part of the canvas remains, on which the handle is located.

Installation of guides

If the canvas is light, it is hung only on the upper guide. If the sash is made of wood and has a lot of weight, it needs to be fixed in the lower runners. Since the sliding door can be installed on 1 or 2 rails, it is necessary to consider both options.

To mount the upper guide, a canvas is placed against the opening. Measure the position of the door in the closed and open state. From the resulting line, step back 7 cm and draw a horizontal line. It determines the position of the beam on which the rail is attached.

The length of the beam must match the guide. It is placed so that the middle is exactly above the upper corner of the opening on the side of the open door. Then the guide profile is attached.

The upper runners are fixed using self-tapping screws. Then the carriage with rollers is assembled and inserted inside the guides. It is necessary to check whether the mechanism moves freely in the rail. Stoppers are installed along the edges of the guides to prevent the canvas from jumping out of the track.

The bottom groove is made using a milling machine. It should be 1-2 mm larger than the guide knife, and the depth should be 18 mm. If the design does not provide for a bottom rail, then a flag guide stopper is installed on the floor. It should fit into the groove in the door leaf. Its task is to limit the movement of the canvas and eliminate transverse vibrations of the sash from below.

Installation of the canvas

Installation of sliding doors is carried out after installing all the guides. First you need to install the mounting brackets. They are fixed with self-tapping screws to the upper end of the door, after making holes using a thin drill. The canvas is hung on the upper rail, and then inserted into the lower guide. The carriages with rollers are connected to the brackets so that the nut and washer are on top. Then the fasteners are tightened with a wrench. After checking the movement along the upper guide, the blade can be installed in the lower groove.

Accessories

Installation of sliding interior doors will be incomplete without installing fittings. For such structures, mortise handles and special locks are used. Locking devices are rarely installed, since the level of protection of such mechanisms is low. To make handles you will need:

1. ruler and pencil;
2. milling machine;
3. chisel and hammer;
4. screws and a screwdriver.

First, mark the position of the handles. They are placed at waist level at a distance of 4-5 cm from the vertical edge of the canvas. The handles are applied to the door and outlined with a pencil. A recess is made to fit the thickness of the fittings using a milling machine or chisel. You can also use a drill with a core drill of the required diameter. A hole should be made on the bottom and top sides of the handle. The wood between the recesses is removed with a chisel or router.

To install sliding doors with a mortise lock, you need to make a hole in the end of the door with a drill. A locking mechanism is installed in the groove and closed with a special strip. In this case, the handle is not a mortise one, but a bracket. A recess is made in the opening for the counter plate. If the lock is padlocked, it is screwed with self-tapping screws to the door leaf.

To prevent dust from entering the room, special brush seals are attached to the lower end of the canvas. If the partition design includes 2 doors, special seals are additionally installed at the ends of the adjacent panels.

Installation of sliding doors should be carried out on high-quality roller carriages. Despite the high cost of the mechanisms, they significantly save money in the future. Cheap rollers quickly break down with frequent use and need to be replaced. High-quality carriages will last a long time.

The cheapest way to make a door leaf is from plain or laminated chipboard or MDF. This material can be decorated to your taste. This can be done using varnish, paint, self-adhesive film, wallpaper or any other method.

For wooden doors You should choose material that has been dried in special cabinets. Otherwise, the structure may become deformed in the first months of operation, and then the frame will have to be redone.

Repair

Sometimes sliding door repairs may be necessary. A common failure is poor movement of the blade in the guides. To do this, you need to either adjust the roller or replace it. Sometimes debris gets into the guides, dust and dirt accumulate, which over time does not allow the mechanisms to move freely. To avoid this, you should clean the rails in a timely manner.

It's hard to imagine our life without doors. Their purpose is to freely let us through walls, limiting this opportunity for outsiders if desired: people, animals, smells or bad weather. Present in every home, these guardians of comfort and safety, as if in payment for their work, often limit the usable area of ​​the room due to the opening radius, and the wider the opening blocked by the door, the greater these losses. Recently, the principle of “free planning” has been actively used in construction, when the room inside is an empty box, without load-bearing walls or other partitions. This method is beneficial both to the developer (by reducing the delivery time of the project) and to the end user, allowing him to furnish an apartment or office to his own taste and color. In this case, the question of rational and aesthetic zoning of the room inevitably arises.

An apartment is for people, not for doors

An excellent solution in this case would be to install partitions, sliding doors, roller shutters or accordion doors, allowing, in addition to the lightness and functionality of the design, to significantly increase the usable area. In turn, for standard small-sized apartments, in conditions of limited free space, this method of dividing rooms can become almost a panacea. In addition, installing glass sliding doors with a mirror base will visually expand the space and, thanks to the reflective effect, make the room brighter.

How does this work?

In a slider system (also called: on rollers it slides along one or two guides fixed along the wall, hiding behind one of its sides when opened. Moreover, both for installing a single-leaf sliding door and in the case of two door leaves, the installation technology remains the same and depends only on the length of the guides and the availability of space for placing the door leaves. A widespread option is when the door goes inside the wall, in the so-called door pocket or pencil case. This method, despite the additional difficulties of installation, allows for the integrity of the room design and protects the surface of the door. from accidental damage.

Advantages over competitors

In addition to saving space, a big advantage of slider mechanisms, compared to the same accordion door, is the possibility of using a leaf similar to conventional swing doors, with their huge range (both in appearance and in manufacturing material). In this aspect, only a rotary door can compete with a slider system, but it is much more expensive and more difficult to install, and also takes up more space when opening.

If the walls, floor and doorway have ideal geometry, then the process of installing sliding interior doors with your own hands, in a certain sense, is even simpler than traditional installation, which is explained by large tolerances when mating surfaces. As mentioned above, two methods of arranging doors are used: along and inside the wall. Let's look at each of these options, understanding the installation process step by step.

Instructions for installing a sliding door along a wall

The first step is to clear the opening from the old door (if installed), including the trim and frame. Regardless of the installation method, at the preparatory stage of installation it is necessary to perfectly align the walls around the doorway.

Preparing the doorway

The opening for the door must have a clear geometry: the side slopes correspond to the vertical, and its upper part must be parallel to the floor and the horizon (to check, use a tape measure, building level and plumb line). The permissible difference both horizontally and vertically is no more than 5 mm along the entire length of the opening. Then, using self-tapping screws or liquid nails, additional strips are attached on which door trims are mounted. The resulting size of the opening must be completely, without gaps, covered by the door leaf being hung, taking into account the roller mechanism. The height is selected so that, after installation, the distance between the bottom of the door and the floor is 5-6 mm, which is important for improving sound insulation.

Using long rule, you need to make sure that the wall (in the direction the door opens) is in the same plane with the opening to be closed.

Placement of guides and assembly of the slider system

Now we proceed to install the sliding door mechanism, which is a kit consisting of a metal profile, a pair of roller carriages, a lower guide, movement limiters and fasteners. The choice of a high-quality sliding system is very important for the smooth and durable operation of the entire door unit.

When moving a door along a wall, as a rule, one (upper) guide rail is used, the length of which should be no less than twice the width of the door leaf (or better, exceed it by 100-150 mm). Manufacturers offer profiles in 2, 3, 4 and 6 meter lengths, which are often equipped with notches that determine the required track size to fit a particular standard door width.

• At a distance of 60 mm, parallel to the upper slope of the opening, brackets for fastening the profile are installed on the wall, the role of which can be played by a spacer, which is a pine beam with a cross section of 50x70 mm, equal in length to the guide profile. The supporting elements must be fastened securely, as they will support the entire structure. To avoid skewing and jamming of the door, it is extremely important to perfectly maintain the horizontal level of the brackets (distance gasket) and their strict parallelism to the floor.
• The guide profile is attached with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the beam at a distance of 5-10 mm from the plane of the wall (platband).
• At the upper end of the door leaf, rollers for sliding doors are installed using self-tapping screws. They are placed on both sides at a distance of 100-110 mm from the edges to the axis of fastening of the moving part.
• The lower guide gives the door additional stability and, depending on the configuration, can take the form of a C-shaped bracket or a T-bar. In the second case, using a router or drill and chisel, it is necessary to select a groove along the entire length of the lower end of the door that is a couple of millimeters greater than the thickness of the guide flag.

Hanging and finishing the door

• After this, a movement limiter and a rubber shock absorber are installed in the aluminum guide, which can move freely along the rail and is rigidly fixed after hanging the door leaf.
• Then, if there is free space along the wall, the roller carriages are inserted into the profile, holding the door attached to them in a hanging position. The installation is completed by installing the response shock absorber and plug. Before hanging, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the guide from debris and other foreign objects that impede the free movement of the carriages.

• If space is limited, the profile is attached to the spacer (brackets) immediately together with the door leaf and movement limiters. In this case, for high-quality fixation of the structure, it is better to work with an assistant, achieving ideal observance of the horizon and a uniform distance from the wall along the entire length of the profile (for which it is convenient to use a template from wooden blocks prepared in advance).
• After that, they check the ease of sliding of the door along the wall, and in case of uneven movement or slight distortion, using adjusting screws located on the roller carriages, the position of the door leaf is finely adjusted to an ideal state. To avoid loosening of fastener elements (after adjusting the door), it is recommended to treat the adjusting screws with adhesive or sealant.
• At the next stage, it is necessary to install the lower guide bracket, placing it in the middle of the working stroke of the door so that in any position of the door leaf the guide is always in engagement with it. In any case, the mounting location should be outside the doorway (next to the slope towards which the door opens).
• Now you can install handles, a lock (if necessary) and a decorative strip covering the slider mechanism, which must be removable to allow maintenance and adjustment of the roller carriages.

Hiding the doors in the wall

For the second installation method (using a “door pocket”), we will get acquainted with the installation instructions, which differ from the first option only in the additional, albeit very serious, amount of construction work. The very same fastening of the slider mechanism is similar to the process given above.

First you need to decide on the principle of forming a “door pocket”, and here, depending on a number of factors, there are two options:

1. The structure is created in place of a large doorway, at least twice the width of the door being installed (allowing the door leaf and pencil case to be placed in it). In this case, a hollow frame is formed on both sides of the door, imitating a blank wall from the outside.
2. An existing wall of sufficient width is used as one of the sides of the “door pocket” design. But this does not mean saving materials and simplifying installation, since, to create the visual integrity of the wall, the frame will have to be mounted over its entire area, both above the door frame and in the direction where there will be no pencil case.

The first method of creating a “secret shelter” for installing sliding interior doors with your own hands is preferable, since it allows you to make the frame less massive, indistinguishable in thickness from a regular wall, and is most often used in new buildings, especially in “open-plan” conditions.

Breaking is not building, or the nuances of expanding a doorway

If you are an adherent of the principle of beauty, which requires sacrifice, then you will have to work hard to expand the doorway to the required width. The main thing is to pay attention to some important aspects:

• This is a permanent wall or just a partition. In the first case, it will be necessary to take additional measures to strengthen the load-bearing capacity of the expandable opening (but it is safer to use the option of a pencil case attached to the wall).
• To avoid additional problems, make sure that there are no electrical, plumbing or other communications inside the section of wall being removed (check the house plan, use a wiring detector if necessary).
• Decide whether you will need an electrical, network or antenna socket on the wall with a door pocket; if so, then the wiring needs to be prepared in advance.

Arranging a door frame with your own hands

The material for creating the frame can be galvanized building profiles or wooden beams of the appropriate size, which are attached along the perimeter of the future “door pocket” in two parallel rows. When using an existing wall, you will need one row, but it will have to be installed over its entire area minus the doorway. The technology for constructing a false wall frame itself is similar to creating a partition from plasterboard and involves installing vertical posts with a pitch of 400-600 mm, fastened together with jumpers in order to increase the rigidity of the structure. For not very heavy doors (up to eighty kilograms), if it is necessary to form the upper part of the opening, a beam with a side width of about 50 mm is used, and for a higher load the frame is made welded (which is hardly justified in a private house or apartment).

The space between the rows should guarantee the unhindered movement of the door leaf and, as a rule, is 20 mm wider than the thickness of the door. The depth of the niche should correspond to the width of the sash hidden in it with a small margin (5-10 cm).

Don't forget to provide space and make a frame to hide the sliding mechanism. This will require either increasing the height of the opening or using a shorter door leaf.

Next, you should mount the slider mechanism and install the sliding door similarly to the recommendations above. The only difference is that the guide profile does not need to be attached to the spacer or bracket, but directly in the middle and along the top of the slope of the door opening or support beam.

Checking, adjusting and fine-tuning the operation of sliding doors is carried out before covering the wall with plasterboard, since then, without dismantling the covering, this will be impossible.

Then the handles and locks are mounted, the facing material is attached to the frame and the finishing walls

Installation of a finished pencil case for a door

Specialized stores offer comprehensive solutions for sliding systems, including both a sliding mechanism and a built-in unit. Its installation is almost identical to the installation of a conventional door frame, and comes down to rigidly fastening the finished pencil case to the wall or installing it in the doorway, observing the strict positioning of all components of the kit. As a rule, fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam, which has low expansion. Then they install the guides, door leaf, handles, lock, drywall and the list goes on.

Don’t make yourself an idol: what to expect from sliding systems

When installing sliding doors, it is possible to use two sliding systems, which, located in parallel, support the door leaf from above and below. This installation method allows you to withstand significant loads and is used, as a rule, when the door weighs significantly (more than 80 kg). However, for high-quality sliding in such a system, ideal symmetry of both guides is required, and the bottom rail, in order to avoid stumbling when walking, will have to be recessed into the floor, positioned at the same level with the floor covering. In addition, the inevitable debris and small objects that get into the lower profile can easily damage the rollers and damage the entire opening mechanism.

Sliding door systems require an ideal wall surface and high precision during installation; they are less reliable than classic swing doors, are noisier when opening, and protect the room less well from extraneous odors and sounds.

Nevertheless, scrupulous installation, the use of high-quality sliding mechanisms, and the installation of additional seals at joints can largely eliminate these shortcomings, and thanks to their high ergonomics and stylish design, sliding door systems have earned recognition and are widely used throughout the world.

Increasingly, buyers of new plastic windows have begun to refuse to install the product and prefer to do it themselves. This trend is due to the fact that in most cases installation services are paid separately and can become a significant expense item.

In addition, there is no guarantee that the installation will be carried out by the company according to all requirements. So how to install plastic (PVC) windows correctly?

What needs to be done to ensure that a high-quality product does not lose its properties due to improper installation and lasts as long as the manufacturers promise?

What should I do before installation?

— First of all, you need, of course, to dismantle the old window. If the window unit is an old wooden beams, then it’s easy enough to break them off.

— Dismantling plastic windows, which may still be useful for a summer house or for other purposes, will require much more time and effort.
To begin, remove plastic slopes, if they exist.

After which you need to remove all visible fittings, remove the sash and dismantle the double-glazed window. Next, you can simply remove the window block from the opening.

After delivery, the window product must be checked for compliance with preliminary measurements, and before that the window must stand for approximately 20-30 minutes at room temperature. This part is especially important when installing windows in winter.

— After the PVC profile has adapted to room temperature, you can begin its immediate preparation.

First you need to determine what type of window opening you have: with or without a quarter. A quarter is a small protrusion in the opening that serves to fit the profile more tightly to the wall and prevent blowing. This part was named a quarter due to the fact that it occupies ¼ of the entire opening.
— Great value has the building material. The choice of fasteners depends on it. If the house is made of concrete blocks or bricks, opt for expansion dowels and screws.

For older houses or buildings made of wood, anchor plates are used.

Required tools and materials

— Expansion dowels.

— Self-tapping screws of different lengths.
— Anchor plates.
— PSUL (vapor barrier self-expanding tape).
— Diffusion tape.
— Vapor barrier tape.
— Polyurethane foam.
- A simple pencil.
— Perforator.
- Drill or screwdriver.
- Spray bottle.
— Gun for polyurethane foam.
- Level.
— Wooden or plastic blocks.
- Sealant.

Installation of plastic (PVC) windows stages

First stage: window preparation

— If you secure the window unit using spacer dowels, you need to make two holes on each side of the frame.

Each of them should extend 18 cm from the corner.

If you use anchor plates, one of its sides must be attached to the profile using self-tapping screws.

— To install in a quarter, place the window frame (without double-glazed windows and sashes) in the opening.

Using a simple pencil, mark the junction of the box and the quarter. It is also worth noting the locations of the holes. After which the box can be removed.
— Stepping back from the 2 cm mark, apply PSUL tape along the entire perimeter of the window. It is necessary to fit the window more tightly to the opening and prevent blowing. Subsequently, the tape expands and completely covers all possible gaps.

Please note that the tape cannot be bent; a separate piece of the required length must be made for each side. If the window is missing a quarter, the PSUL tape is optional.
— A vapor barrier tape is glued around the entire perimeter of the box. It is a metallized strip 15-20 cm wide and protects the assembly seam from moisture getting inside.

There is an adhesive layer and protective paper on both edges of the tape. Only one side of the tape is glued to the window, the second should move away from the profile edges. During the last assembly, the edge of the vapor barrier tape should be inside the room.

— Before correctly installing plastic (PVC) windows, it is worth installing an additional profile.

Most often it is mounted at the bottom of the profile and serves to install ebb and window sills. Before installing the additional profile, you need to glue PSUL tape along its entire perimeter.
— At this stage, it is advisable to install handles on all sashes.

Stage two: preparing the window opening

— After dismantling the old window, a lot of construction dirt may remain on the opening.

It needs to be removed.
— Check the slopes for visible defects. If the protrusion or depression exceeds 5 mm, they must be leveled. Subsequently, such, albeit small, irregularities can greatly interfere with installation.
— It is advisable to treat the opening with an antiseptic to prevent the formation of fungus on plastic windows.
- In those places where we previously made marks, drill several holes using a hammer drill.

Be sure to keep the tool as perpendicular to the wall as possible.

— If the building is old enough or made of wood, the opening should be covered with several layers of rubber mastic.

It covers the surface with a dense waterproofing layer and does not allow moisture to get inside the wall.

Third stage: installation of the window block in the opening

— The window is installed in the opening. At this stage you will need a level and you will need to check the evenness of each side. If necessary, you should use wooden or plastic blocks.

— Spacer dowels are inserted into the holes and carefully twisted and hammered.

The anchor plates must also be attached to the wall.
— After fastening, again check the evenness of the window in the opening. When installing a plastic (PVC) window with your own hands, it is very important at every stage to check that all work has been completed correctly.

Stage four: installation of low tide

— The ebb is a metal plate with curved edges.

One edge serves to fix the part to the additional profile, the second performs a drainage function. First, you need to bring the ebb to the place where it is attached and mark the places where the screws will go. Uses three screws - 2 on the sides and one in the middle. Remove the ebb and drill holes in the required places using a drill with a metal drill bit.

— On the outside of the house, the lower edge of the opening is glued with diffusion tape.

It is especially important if an additional profile is not used during installation. The diffusion tape is a relief strip of membrane type. It does not allow moisture inside the assembly seam, but at the same time allows water to pass outside. If the width of the tape is not enough, you can glue it in several layers.

— PSUL tape is glued on the inside of the ebb. One stripe in the middle will be enough.
— The ebb is fixed to the window opening with self-tapping screws.

Fifth stage: foaming the assembly seam

— Polyurethane foam is necessary to protect the seam from moisture.

It also greatly affects thermal insulation. When choosing foam, the only thing you should pay attention to is the expansion temperature. If you are installing windows in winter, it is better to choose foam that hardens at low temperatures, if in summer it is the opposite. Otherwise foam different brands are not much different from each other.
— Moisten the entire surface of the slope using a spray bottle. In a humid environment, polyurethane foam hardens much faster.
- Shake the foam can upside down and place it in the gun.
— Fill approximately one-third of the opening between the window and the wall with foam.

Then dampen the opening again and fill another third of the opening.
— If using leveling pads, foam them too.

— At this stage, we again need the previously glued vapor barrier tape. The second edge, which remained unused, is glued to the wall and thereby covers the mounting foam.

The vapor barrier tape will protect the installation seam from moisture entering from the room.
— During the process of foam expansion, it is necessary to walk over the vapor barrier tape several times with a roller or dry cloth. Otherwise the tape may come off.

Stage six: installation of the window sill

— The window sill board is placed under the lower edge of the profile.

One side of it should go slightly inside the profile. Pads are laid under the window sill. The window sill itself is leveled using a level.

— The place where the window sill board intersects the lower edge of the window opening is marked with a pencil.
— Anchor plates are fixed at the marks.
— The window sill is put back in its rightful place. Now we need long screws.

They fasten the profile and the window sill. Place the self-tapping screws in the place where the spatula will be located and carefully drill out.

The seam between the window sill and the wall is covered with foam in the same way as in the previous instructions.

— Anchor plates are fixed to the wall.

— It is necessary to install a double-glazed window and a sash; they will add significant weight to the window frame, will put pressure on the window sill and will not allow polyurethane foam move it.
— All cracks on the sides of the window sill are filled with liquid sealant.

Seventh stage: final

— At this stage, you can decorate the slopes.
— The fittings are checked for functionality.

The door needs to be opened and closed several times. During this, pay attention to the sounds that the hinges and handles make; there should be no creaking.
— An A4 sheet is placed between the window block and the sash. The door closes.

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding interior doors

Now try to pull out a piece of paper. If it breaks, it means the sash is installed correctly.
— Don’t forget to peel off the protective film. This must be done no later than 2 days after installation. The adhesive layer may come away from the film when exposed to sunlight. The frame will become very dirty and attract dust.

Sliding doors are very useful if you want to store useful square footage of space. Just install the sliding door, you can also install the door yourself!

Let's start with the steps:

first First, you need to decide how to install sliding doors along the wall (1 and 3) or in a hole (2 and 4) in the wall, find out the number of sliding doors you want to install:

When installing a door into a hole on BKA sliding mechanisms, it does not matter at all that when installing a door, the installation of additional cassettes is not required, as is offered by European manufacturers of sliding systems; the system is mounted on rails and rollers in the doors.

As a result, you can get sliding doors, there is already a lot of cost-saving square meters, it’s no worse to pump, namely, that it will insulate, be odor-proof and be able to install the lock back.

Sliding doors can be installed along the wall.

second Any door leaf is suitable for installing sliding doors, and the matching BKE slider mechanisms are suitable for any fabric.

third For the convenience of all users, consider installing sliding doors.

So you should have a door leaf, a set of cylinders, a top and bottom track and a set of handles.

3.1. Determine the length of the top and bottom guides:

Lop.nap = door wing width X2 + 10 cm

Lnn.napr. = Door width

3.2. Take the rod to this shape (Fig. 1) and pull it into the top guide and install the plug near the edge of the top guide (Fig. 2 and Fig. 2.1)

Figure 1	Figure 2
Figure 2.1.

You can see this route on both sides of the guide:

fourth PIN bus (with predefined interior of carriages and plugs) against a wall or door; It should be noted that when specifying a door (or ceiling) - Figure 3 - the top track is installed on a screw, and if the installation is on a wall - Figure 4 - you will need to install a console (Figure 5 and

5.1), the carrier is installed at 2-3 angles per meter of the meter.

Figure 3 Figure 4
	Figure 5 Figure 5.1.

Get the following image. The top wire with fixed and fixed plugs and rollers is attached in the hole or along the door opening.

fifthsThen you will have to work with the door leaf- namely, to connect the lower conductor (Fig. 6) to the bottom of the door leaf.

It can be fixed in two ways - by grinding the door (Figure 7) and without grinding (Figure 8). Attach the bottom conductor to the bottom of the door leaf, and then to the bottom (Fig. 9), which is included in the cylinder kit.

How to install an internal sliding door yourself

5.1 Install the installation plate on the upper part of the door leaf (together with the rollers) on both sides (Fig. 10)

sixth Now you need to attach the installed top conductor (with cylinders and plugs) to the door leaf (with the bottom plate and mounting plates).

Install the mounting plate with the opposite nut

sevenths Locate the bottom slider (Figure 9) and secure it to the ground.

It will work on the bottom track which prevents the sliding doors from sliding.

eighths Install the necessary plates and additional parts on the sliding door.

9. Enjoy!

Sliding interior doors and how to install them yourself.

After making a decision and fixing the goal, you want to install a sliding door at home without calling a specialist.

We will try to help you with this. It is important that in addition to renovation, still decorated and interior sliding doors create a pleasant interior and shape of your apartment. They are not difficult to install; all you need is certain skills, ability to use tools and knowledge on the job.

Currently, there are many types and different models of sliding interior doors, all of which differ in appearance and design from each other, as well as in color.

The door leaf contains a roller mechanism that represents this structure and guides.

The roller track mechanism is attached to the door so that the inner door can move back and forth safely. Before installing the door, we must select a special type of interior door.

There are such types: cascading sliding doors, radial, coupe, sliding accordion, one and up to four doors. Sliding doors have various modifications and options. Doors and door handles of sliding interior doors are different in appearance rather than simple, plain doors. The peculiarity of these handles is that they are fixed inside the door. The accessory typically comes with a fender door, but it's important to choose the right handles and locks for anything sold separately, so consult with experts in the field.

Necessary working tools and materials for installing sliding internal doors.

Installation requires installation with interior sliding doors.

To do this, you need to have the following set of tools and materials: cylinder mechanism, guides, frames, special handles and locks, saw, piece of wood, drill, screws, mill, bolts, door frame, door leaf, screwdriver, key, In addition, foam must contain cracks, CE pencil, glue. Once you have purchased and purchased everything you need for installation, you can proceed with your interior door installation with peace of mind.

Internal sliding doors, their advantages and disadvantages.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of internal sliding doors.

Firstly, it should be noted that such doors significantly save the space where they are installed. Unlike other types of doors, they do not close due to drafts. Sliding doors simply transfer the automation to another door, which is a big advantage. They can close and open easily if you watch and take care of the roller mechanism.

Interior sliding doors may not have thresholds, although there are other types of such doors that are installed in the ground. The disadvantages of such doors are: the lack of installation possibility for the front door. The doors have low-noise insulation, the prices for locks and handles are much higher than for conventional doors.

There will also be no room for household appliances and furniture next to the door. If you want to build your apartment or house, balcony or balcony, it is better to use glass sliding doors, which will serve as a wonderful version of the passage.

Useful tips when working with internal sliding doors.

Instructions can be given useful tips who play important role when installing and using internal sliding doors.

When choosing a roller mechanism, pay attention to the quality of the door, as it plays an important role in sliding doors. If the door is very heavy, buy a three-wheel roller mechanism so they can support the weight of the interior door. Make the door better with someone so that it is clearly visible from the side. If it is quite difficult to install, contact the experts who will quickly and quickly build the door.

Maintain the correct distance during all stages of work.

Installation and detailed instructions for internal sliding doors.

The initial step in installing sliding interior doors is to remove the old doors, clear the space, and make room for new doors to be installed.

Dismantling is the removal of hinges, door leaf, handles and locks.

Self-assembly of a slip coupe in 6 steps

Sliding interior doors can be installed in two ways: with the door leaf, when the door opens and hides in the wall, and when the door goes outside. The more acceptable first option will make significant use of the room in which the door will be installed. But the second option is cheaper and will save you time.

Follow the detailed instructions to install sliding interior doors.

First we prepare the door leaf, we take all the measurements of the door on the canvas. If necessary, straighten the walls so that there are no curves or bulges. Then place the box in the hole. The door is connected to the corresponding screws and inserted into the hole. Once the box is fully installed, blow up the foams we have developed and move on to the next level. Then attach the top conductor and pencil to the door leaf, its position.

Install using screws or dowels, depending on the type of wall, brick or concrete.

After installing the guides, continue installing the roller mechanism. When lining up the edges of the door, place a mark and use screws to secure the mechanism to the door leaf. We also repeat on the back door. Then adjust the height so that the edges of the door do not touch the ground, the doors can be free, open and closed, and the door can move freely.

Before use, carefully check the roller mechanism and, if necessary, lubricate it with engine oil or special fluid.

Then place the guide on the floor, making a corresponding groove if necessary. The final phase is to install the plunger, which will be attached to the door by inserting the lock and installing the handle if it was not installed at the time of purchase. Install the door leaf at all stages. The door should be free to travel and open, then you can assume that you have handled it yourself and installed everything correctly.

Installing the door itself is not that difficult if you have all the details figured out logically and have all the necessary tools.

Independent installation of internal sliding doors

The room has a skylight ceiling. Is it possible to install a sliding door or section?

Yes, I can. To do this you need:

1. Remove the ceiling section where the section is secured.
2. Fix the slab at the level of the ceiling that extends.
3. Place ceiling ceiling in place.
4. Align the guide with the plate and mark the locations on the ceiling for future installation of the guide.
5. Stick to ceiling adhesive plugs at the mounting points, which you can buy at a furniture store.

   To avoid damaging the ceiling, self-tapping screws must go through the plugs.

Illustrations can be found in the Technical Support section under Installing an Expandable Ceiling Mortgage.

Can a sliding door be installed on a drywall wall?

Our sliding doors are made from lightweight modern materials, so there are no problems with installing drywall on the wall.

When installing, try to use everything metal profiles which are inside the wall. The mounting rod is secured to the wall with screws every 10 cm. Use self-tapping screws with a large angle and diameter (4.2 x 75 mm recommended).

I have a switch and an outlet on the wall.

What should I do?

You can change the switch and socket. Thin models with a thickness of less than 1 cm are sold on sale. The door can also be moved away from the wall at the required distance due to the mounting rail on which the guide is installed.

How do the doors stay on if they don't move on the floor?

Instead of a conductor, we use a conductor on the ground.

It has a cylinder shape of 15 mm and a diameter of 10 mm. The guide is inserted into a cutout at the bottom of the door or on the bulkhead.

For this reason, the doors do not move or move left or right.

What do you need to do when ordering a sliding door or partition online so is it right for me?

To do this, you must decide where and how your door will move, and how to accurately measure the height and width of the machined opening.

It will be easier for us to suggest doors that are optimal for you if you send us a photo of the opening or place where you will install the partition on [email protected]. This is advisable, but you don't need to have a plan for the room or a designer's drawing.

I want to replace the regular interior door with a sliding door.

Where to start?

First you have to decide how the door will move and make sure there is enough space. If there is an outlet or switch on the wall, it may need to be replaced with a smaller one.

Then choose a door from the Smart Smart series: they are almost available and you won't have to wait long. Remove old door and prepare the door. Follow our instructions for installing a sliding door.

Are sliding doors better than usual?

Sliding doors save space, which is especially important for narrow corridors and small rooms.

They are light and suitable for non-standard wide openings, they flow well and do not block the space, they look in every room and divide the space into zones.

And what's worse?

Like any other product, a sliding door has many features that you need to know.

Firstly, it is much more difficult to provide heat and sound insulation. Secondly, in the case of a pencil in which the door is removed, dust can accumulate, which is almost impossible to remove. They are finally a little more expensive.

How secure is the door? Can he fall?

Most models of sliding doors and partitions are from the top to the carriages. The cylinders are in strong aluminum guides and stand out or fall off, which they simply cannot.

Each trolley is securely attached to the door, with virtually no vertical load on the structure. Therefore, we are confident in the reliability of the sliding mechanism, which we have been providing for 10 years.

Do sliding doors have sufficient noise insulation?

In terms of their acoustic insulation properties, a sliding door is slightly inferior to a normal interior door.

At the same time, they have many advantages, of which the most important is saving space. When choosing a sliding door, you must decide what is important to you. In addition, you can improve noise and thermal insulation by connecting special buffer strips to the housing.

Can I use your doors in damp rooms such as the bathroom?

Use sliding doors in the bathroom if they do not receive water.

PVC film reliably protects the door leaf from moisture. However, if you cannot avoid direct exposure of the liquid to the door, it is recommended to use aluminum doors.

We are fixing the apartment. At what stage can a sliding door be installed?

Installing a sliding door is a quick procedure that does not harm the interior. Therefore, we advise you to install them at the final stage, after finishing the ceiling, walls and floor.

But if the room has a suspended ceiling, the panel must be installed before removing it.

We have small children in our family. Can a child break a sliding door?

Probably, maybe, but we don’t know of such cases. The door fastening system is very reliable and durable.

And with the help of our sliding partitions, you can give your children space in the home for relaxation and relaxation.

How to quickly make a sliding door?

After payment for the order, the production of most doors and partitions takes no more than two weeks.

DIY sliding interior doors installation

Smart doors are most often available from stock. Delivery time depends on the region in which you live. From experience we can say that most clients outside the city receive their doors within a month.

How to install sliding interior doors yourself

Installing prestigious modern sliding interior doors with your own hands means saving money for the family budget.

Moreover, it is quite simple. First of all, you need to decide whether you will install doors from components that can be found in stores or from improvised units, whether you will buy a door leaf - or make it yourself, or maybe use an old door.

If you decide to do it yourself, try to adhere to some rules:

• the width of the door should correspond to the width of the opening plus 6-7 mm;
• the height of the door leaf should exceed the opening by 10-15 cm;
• as a rule, hinged systems are calculated for strength based on the weight of the door leaf, which does not exceed 100 kilograms;
• When choosing, take into account the properties of the material of the wall on which the doors are mounted.

Sliding doors can serve double duty as doors on one side and a sliding mirror on the other.

Lately everything has been appearing more people who don't want to waste money.

You don’t have to buy a lot of things, but you can make them yourself.

At the same time: - if you have children, you will have a wonderful time together, teach your “descendant” useful things, and appear in his eyes as a Master worthy of respect.

All this leads to the fact that campaigns providing various services begin to lose income. Naturally, they try to combat falling profits by spreading various myths about the complexity of a particular job. For example, there is a widespread belief that installing sliding doors yourself will require you to give up switches, hanging pictures and functionalities on the wall along which the door leaf runs.

But this problem can be solved simply - install a false wall and place everything you want on it, except pound weights.

The process of installing sliding doors begins with the selection of the necessary tools - a hammer, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a Phillips-head screwdriver, a level, and various fasteners.

All sliding doors, despite differences in appearance, are structurally mounted from similar elements, the sequence of their installation is the same.

The standard set of parts required for the manufacture of sliding parts includes:

• lower guide, which is equipped with 1 or 2 rollers;
• top guide with 2 or 4 rollers;
• wooden block measuring 40×40 mm (or 50×50 mm);
• a pair of stoppers;

Don’t forget about the wealth of choice among sliding doors - you can install sliding doors, cassette doors, accordion-type folding doors, radius or cascade sliding doors.

Everything you need has been purchased.

We begin installation. It should be noted that installing sliding interior doors with your own hands includes several stages.

Preparing the doorway:

• removing the old door
• fill cracks and crevices;
• we check the parallelism and horizontality of the upper edge of the opening and the floor;
• install a new box, adjusting the angle relative to the walls and floor using wedges

Using a level you need to level opposite sides opening, and also prepare the wall surface along which the door itself will move back.

This work must be done especially carefully, otherwise you will encounter problems with the movement of the doors.

Using a chisel or an electric router, select a groove in the lower end of the door.

The quality of work must satisfy the requirement of free and without deviation movement of the roller in this groove;

Making such a groove perfect at home is quite problematic.

Therefore, it is better to install a profile or 2 slats.

We mount the upper part of the hanging system. Having placed the canvas against the opening, mark its upper end on the wall.

This line must be strictly horizontal. Draw another line 7 cm up from it. We attach a wooden beam to it. If it is strictly horizontal, we attach it to the wall.

We attach the guide rail to the bottom surface of the installed beam.

Regardless of the curvature of the surfaces of the wall or beam, it must be straight, without bends

You can accurately determine the location of the screw as follows: divide the thickness of the door in half and add 5 mm for free movement of the door - this is the distance to the wall

Marking is made and the lower guide bar is located strictly under the upper one.

Among the negative reviews about sliding doors, the most common complaint is that a lot of dust often accumulates in the parts.

Installation of sliding interior doors - independent installation of a sliding door system

This drawback can be easily eliminated if, when cleaning the apartment, you do not forget to vacuum the parts of the sliding doors.

We attach the rollers to the sash. As a rule, the instructions included with sliding door hardware kits describe this process in detail.

If it does not contain appropriate instructions, the brackets of the roller carriages are mounted at a distance of one centimeter from the edge of the upper end. We install a flag or threshold on the floor.

We insert the stoppers and carriages with the screws unscrewed into the guide.

We install the door leaf on the threshold or flag, hang it with brackets on the supporting screws and hang the leaf. The distance between the bottom end of the door and the floor is usually 8 mm. We lock the shutter on the rollers, loosen the screws of the stoppers and, having established a suitable position - the door should stop not against the stop post, but with the carriage entering the stopper - we fix them.

We install the lower guide in the cutout of the lower end, move the door to the “open” position and mark the longest opening length.

Remove the nuts from the carriages and doors. We mount the lower guide. We align the groove with it and hang the door leaf again. Using the bolts on the carriages, we set the required distance between the sash and the floor.

We decorate with platbands, install door handles, and a return lock.

If the installation was carried out correctly, sliding doors will serve you for years.

To do this, you just need to make sure that dust does not accumulate in the upper guide and periodically check whether the fastenings of the roller carriages and stoppers are loose.