The problem of flooding and increased soil moisture is familiar to owners of plots located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melts do not allow proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.
In what cases is a drainage system necessary?
Drainage is a technology for collecting and discharging groundwater, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.
Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary at every site. In order to determine how much your area needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.
The drainage system helps remove stagnant water from the site
If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the hole and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.
Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:
- high groundwater table;
- the site is located in an area with clay soil;
- the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
- The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.
The presence of drainage helps preserve the finishing and facing materials used for installation garden paths, finishing of the basement and facade of the building.
Types of dehumidification systems
There are a great variety of land drainage systems. Moreover, in different sources their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.
Surface type drainage
Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of rainfall and uneven melting of snow.
Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris
A surface drainage system is constructed across the area of the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subtypes:
- Point - in some sources referred to as local drainage. Used to collect and drain water from a certain place on the site. The main area of application is drainage of areas under drains, approx. entrance doors and gates, in the area where containers and watering taps are located. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
- Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, ensuring a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.
When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the system operates most efficiently. If necessary, point and linear drainage can be combined with the system described below.
Deep drainage
Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant drainage of the soil or lowering of the groundwater level is necessary. Drains are laid with a slope in the direction of water flow, which enters a collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.
The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area
To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In cases where it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of a building, pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of the site with a certain pitch. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their placement and the mechanical composition of the soil.
For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains is reduced to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book “Draining land for gardens” by A.M. Dumblyauskas.
| Depth of drains, m | Distance between drains, m | ||
| Sandy soil | Loamy soil | Clay soil | |
| 0,45 | 4,5–5,5 | 4–5 | 2–3 |
| 0,6 | 6,5–7,5 | 5–6,5 | 3–4 |
| 0,9 | 9–11 | 7–9 | 4–5,5 |
| 1,2 | 12–15 | 10–12 | 4,5–7 |
| 1,5 | 15,5–18 | 12–15 | 6,5–9 |
| 1,8 | 18–22 | 15–18 | 7–11 |
When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the area is relatively flat, then to impart a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is maintained.
When installing long drainage, a minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route must be observed. For example, for a drainage system 15 m long, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.
If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated slope standards. This will ensure faster drainage and reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.
Drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest methods with instructions
In order to independently drain a plot of land using a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase necessary materials, prepare tools and a place to perform work.
Surface drainage of a summer cottage
Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining small summer cottages. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It shows a herringbone-shaped drainage route. The distance between the drains, as stated above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).
An example of the location of the drainage system on summer cottage
To carry out the work you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. The materials you will need to prepare are gravel of fraction 20–40, geotextiles, edged timber or board 2–3 m long.
To construct surface drainage on a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:
Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with concrete mixture.
Draining the area using deep drainage
Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining suburban and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not be damaged.
An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area
Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:
- According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of drainage pipes and determine the water discharge point, that is, the place from where the collected water will be drained into sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the freezing level of the soil. For the North-Western region this value is about 60–80 cm.
Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage
- Taking into account the plan, a trench is dug along the perimeter and area of the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the water discharge point. After this, trenches are dug maintaining a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the drainage, the trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.
The pit for the drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site
- At the lowest point of the site, a place is created for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage type wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, you can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.
A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.
- Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After this, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
- Modular inspection wells are installed at drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume waste water. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.
An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns
- Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for functionality. To do this, a large volume of water is drained through drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move on to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
- A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After this, the drains with laid crushed stone are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured on top of the geofabric and thoroughly compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be filled with fertile soil or regular soil from the site.
Methods for drying an area without drainage
Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water in the area are not always associated with high groundwater levels. Sometimes this occurs due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, and puddles and mold form on the soil surface.
Sanding clay soil is one of the ways to drain an area without drainage
If, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to install a drainage system, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:
Of the above methods for draining a site, the most effective are adding a sufficient amount of fertile soil and constructing trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m3 of soil is sufficient.
The easiest way to drain the soil on a site
Construction of shallow trenches filled with crushed stone is the most in a simple way drainage of a summer cottage. Despite its overall simplicity, this method is very effective and can cope with large amounts of water formed during snow melting.
Work on arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of the site includes the following:
If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be covered with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under a layer of turf. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery on top of the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.
How to clear a clogged drain pipe
Failure to comply with the technology for laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with a blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not ensure constant and uniform drainage of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.
To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.
The easiest way to unclog drain pipes is to use a steel cable drain cleaner. At one end of the cable there is a spiral-shaped nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of the blockage.
To clean pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Next, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards draining the water. Usually, small accumulations of silt and leaves can be pushed through without much difficulty.
If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.
Video: do-it-yourself site drainage
Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are a big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that excess water can be dealt with using a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the construction of a well is impossible due to certain circumstances.
The proximity of a natural reservoir cannot decorate a summer cottage as much as your own pond, even a very small one. It can be improved in many ways: lay stones on the shore, make sandy beach, sow around the perimeter lawn grass. Lilies will bloom on the surface of the water, and under it, if you want, real fish will live. There are several ways to build a pond at your dacha with your own hands. For it, a pit is dug and the bottom and walls are concreted, either covered with PVC film, or a ready-made plastic container is installed.
Choosing a construction method
First, the size of the pond and its depth are determined. They depend on the purpose of the reservoir: it will only decorate the area or become a place for recreation, swimming, and summer bathing for children. It is natural: the larger the pond, the more funds will have to be invested in its construction. The technology is determined by the amount of finance and time spent, while a film pond can only be built in the summer, and these conditions also cannot be neglected.
It is better to install a swimming pool for swimming, and set up a pond at the dacha as a quiet, beautiful natural corner. A ready-made polyethylene container allows you to set up a pond with your own hands in a matter of days. It is intended for small reservoirs, the volume of which does not exceed 900 liters. The containers are also made of fiberglass. The physical properties of this material make it possible to make large containers with a volume of up to 6000 liters.
The disadvantages of constructing a reservoir in this way are its given form, which has to be taken as the manufacturer came up with it. To their credit, they are quite diverse. Not just a bottom and walls, but a stepped bottom that imitates a natural body of water.
The construction of a film pond is based on laying and securing PVC film or butyl rubber to the bottom and walls of the pit. Both materials have good strength, but can be damaged by sharp stones. To protect them, geotextiles are first laid, but this increases the cost of the reservoir. That is why it makes sense to pay attention to the third method, which is the most difficult to equip a pond in a dacha with your own hands, but it is the most reliable and durable. This method involves installing a concrete screed over the entire area of the pit.
Show your imagination
The bottom and walls of the reservoir can be equipped with a variety of available means. For example, you can easily and quickly make a small pond with your own hands from old bath or car tires. The latter are placed in one copy or several pieces in a row. Then you get several mini-reservoirs, combined into one wonderful corner for relaxation.
The pond on the site not only decorates it. It creates a favorable microclimate by increasing air humidity. In such an atmosphere, all plants grow quickly, bloom and bear fruit for a long time. Therefore, the pond also plays a functional role to some extent: it contributes to the care of flower beds, gardens, and vegetable gardens, if they are located nearby.
Detailed description of construction
The location for the reservoir is selected taking into account the following factors:
- it must be protected from the wind (for example, trees grow nearby, there is a fence);
- in summer the sun should not illuminate it during the hottest hours (from 11 to 15);
- it is necessary to ensure the possibility of carrying out communications for pumping/supplying water.
Ideally, you should look for a middle ground when choosing a place to build a pond, because it must take into account all factors at the same time. Without scorching rays, in the shade of trees, but not too dark. Leaves should not fall into the water large quantities, otherwise it will begin to rot from decaying bacteria. A quiet place and at the same time with the opportunity to arrange rest areas, for example, tables and benches.
Communications, as a rule, are buried in the ground. If there are flower beds, a vegetable garden, or a garden with already planted plants nearby, you should consider constructing a trench. The shape of the reservoir is a matter of imagination. Round, oval, square, polygonal, winding outlines, decorated with greenery and lined with stones, will decorate the area with coziness.
Pit construction
There can be any option for constructing a reservoir, but before you make a pond in your dacha, you need to properly dig a pit. For a small lake they can do it with a shovel and their own resources. The following rules should be taken into account and should not be ignored:
The construction of the pond with the installation of reinforced concrete screeds continues. Concrete mixture M300 is prepared from the following components:
- Portland cement M400 - 370 kg,
- sand (middle fractions) - 780 kg,
- crushed stone with fractions up to 2.5 mm - 990 kg,
- water 195 liters.
The calculation is given to obtain 1 m3 of concrete mixture. The thickness of the concrete at the bottom and walls of the pit should be at least 100 mm. The screed is made with reinforcement from 4-6 mm rods. They are laid in 1 row lengthwise and crosswise. The intersection points are fixed with knitting wire. Concreting begins from the bottom, then moves to the walls of the pit. Hardening of the screed lasts 1 month, while it is protected from too rapid evaporation by constant moisture.
Pit lining
You can make a beautiful pond on your site using finishing materials. For example, lay it out with marble. A more inexpensive option is to use plastic tiles specifically designed for ponds. It is made of high density polyethylene or PVC. There are also polypropylene tiles. These materials allow you to save money while maintaining good decorative and strength properties.
Designer fantasies
The pit is filled with water, and the pond on the site is ready. If there is no drain connected to it, it should be drained once a year (in spring) using a drainage pump. It is then filled with new, clean water. You can decorate a pond with a wooden platform with lighting installed around its perimeter. Other methods of decoration: a flowerbed on the water made of lilies and water lilies, a fountain, a wooden bridge, dense thickets on the shore, duckweed covering the surface of the water (imitation of a swamp).
Decorating elements are thought out before all work begins, at the design stage. The fountain requires communications. In this case, you can buy a structure that is fully assembled and ready for use. The fountain is installed directly in the water or on stones if it is built into a separate bowl. Water is taken from the pond and discharged back into it. Thus, the movement of water in the reservoir occurs. This prevents it from blooming and polluting, and caring for the pond becomes easier and less complicated.
It is quite easy to arrange drainage around your site to remove excess moisture. It is important to choose the optimal format according to which the drainage ditch along the fence will be prepared, and to determine the required set of materials and tools.
Problems to be solved:
- In areas with high rainfall, soil erosion is a problem;
- With high groundwater flow in the area, the soil is waterlogged;
- With the natural slope of the site, all the water accumulates in the lower part and “pulls” the entire fertile layer of soil with it;
- In hilly and mountainous areas, depending on the season, a huge volume of water falls on the site from the area higher up the slope;
- Atmospheric precipitation from the road surface accumulates under the fence along the perimeter of the site and can wash away the base and supports of the fence.
In all of the above situations, the optimal solution is to install drainage ditches or a productive hidden drainage system around the perimeter of the site.
The main task of the drainage ditch is to collect surface precipitation and remove it from the site.
However, it is not used to transport excess water, it is rather a localized drainage field where excess water accumulates and is gradually absorbed into the soil, without causing negative consequences for buildings and the fertile soil layer of the site.
Species
There are three types of drainage:
- open;
- closed, laying perforated pipes with backfill;
- backfill, the ditch is filled with coarse gravel and filter fills for rapid drainage of water.
To arrange drainage under the fence around the site from the outside, the easiest way is to use open drainage ditches with reinforced slopes and a stable slope, so that all excess water from the site and adjacent areas, including the road surface, quickly goes to the depth of groundwater or is transported to the drainage field, drainage well.
Among the main advantages:
- small amount of land work;
- minimum materials;
- a wide range of slope strengthening options;
- a simple way to maintain, clean and prevent drainage.
Requirements. Distance from fence
For any drainage systems aimed at reclamation of a private plot, SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85 are standardized. The optimal slopes for organizing a drainage ditch, the distance to the fence and other structures, as well as design options depending on the required throughput and the characteristics of the drained area, such as the general slope, soil type, etc., are discussed.
For a flat area or with a slight slope of up to five degrees to the horizon, the additional slope along the bottom of the ditch should be 3-5 ‰ (ppm), which corresponds to a difference in height of 3-5 cm for every 10 m.
In fact, the quality of the slope and its uniformity are determined on site during the preparation of the trench. It is difficult to ensure the shape of the trench with high accuracy, so you will have to adjust its geometry during the operation of the drainage.
It is important that the drainage ditch is located at a distance from fence posts and supporting structures so as not to erode their base. It is enough to move the upper border from the plane of the fence by 30-50 cm, and when arranging reinforcement of the walls, compact the soil so that water does not wash under the fence.
Methods for strengthening walls
The drainage ditch only partially acts as a transport system; the water entering it must be effectively absorbed into the soil along the entire length of the ditch bottom. It is not advisable to use concrete sections or otherwise reinforce the bottom.
It is permissible to use a rigid waterproof base only if there are underground communications running underneath it, which should be protected from the effects of precipitation and groundwater.
Effective ways to strengthen slopes:
During excavation work and preparation of the base of the ditch, an extended pit is dug approximately twice as wide as necessary. A cushion of coarse sand or gravel is poured along the bottom.
The slopes are compacted manually or mechanically and covered with the material selected for reinforcement. Next, a layer of soil is poured in the same way with tamping and compaction, only at a lesser intensity.
Calculation
In order for the drainage ditch to cope with the task, several important rules must be followed:
- The depth of the ditch along its entire length must be greater than the depth of the foundation nearby buildings by 300-500 mm;
- The slope along its entire length, taking into account turns or a detour along the perimeter of the site, is directed to one point or along the lower border of the site;
- The slope is determined by the composition of the soil and the calculated throughput and ranges from 1 to 5 cm for every 10 meters of length.
If there is a drainage well located at a distance from the contour of the drainage ditch, you should take the extreme point of the drainage system located away from the well and calculate the depth, and then calculate the control points located along the route, which will be used to determine the correct geometry of the ditch.
With your own hands
It is quite simple to arrange a ditch with your own hands, even if you do most of earthworks manually. However, the difficulty will be caused by the presence of a large volume of selected soil along the length of the ditch.
It can be used to arrange a front garden around the perimeter of the site so that it is raised above general level soil.
The easiest way is to use the option of reinforcing the slopes with biomats, geomats, mesh or geotexile. In this case, there is no need to excessively compact the soil under the base; you can limit yourself to a small volume of loose drainage, sand or gravel, which will significantly reduce the load on the contractor.
Price
A drainage ditch can be organized efficiently, quickly and aesthetically using heavy rafter equipment.
A minimum amount of excavator will be required, which will dig the base for a ditch in a matter of hours and at the same time it will be easier to adjust the shape and geometry of the slopes, and the depth of the base.
The executing company will prepare a work project and estimate in advance so as not to guess about the actual cost of the work and count on a guaranteed result.
The main burden on the budget of this event may come from the preparation of a drainage well, if it is necessary, the remaining work is much cheaper.
On our site there is a pit measuring 6 x 6 m and 1 m deep. Apparently, the previous owners wanted to build something on this site, but never got around to it. We are not planning construction, so we don’t need a foundation pit. Is it possible to put cut trees and shrubs in it and then simply fill it with soil? And what else can be done with this hole?
Natalya Egorova, Zelenograd
Rarely do any summer residents get a completely ideal plot of land. For some it is too dry, for others it is too damp, for others it is too shady or windy. Well, the author of the letter was unlucky with a huge hole. But why no luck? If you approach the matter thoughtfully and creatively, such a disadvantage is not so difficult to turn into an advantage. Or even make it a highlight that all the neighbors and guests of your dacha will look at.
Unfortunately, no details about the exact location, relief, soil and water conditions, features of development and the style of decorative design of the site are presented in the letter. It is only known that it came from the city of Zelenograd, Moscow region. Therefore, I will try to suggest only the most general options for action. I hope that they will be of interest to other summer residents.
Initial data
Zelenograd is located on the territory of the Klinsko-Dmitrovskaya ridge. This area is gently rolling, and the soil consists of glacial deposits under a relatively thin layer of red-brown and brownish loams.
In the Zelenograd area, the most common are soddy-podzolic soils, on which mainly spruce and spruce-small-leaved forests grow. It is likely that the soil on the site does not allow water to pass through well, and it lingers in holes and ditches for a long time. But another option is also possible - sediments quickly sink to depth. Depending on the specific situation on the site, you need to make a decision on what to do with the pit.
Harvest beds
The pit can be turned into a wonderful gardening area. All experts agree that replacing nutritionally poor soil with more fertile soil is perfect solution to obtain high yields. And if there are not enough materials for this right away, this can be done in stages!
How to do it?
Coarse plant debris: branches, twigs, foliage are placed at the bottom of the pit. On top they are partially covered with ordinary soil from your site. Then lay out a layer of nutritious organic matter - manure (can be unrotted) or manure mixed with peat. After this, the surface is covered with a 20-30 cm layer of ready-made compost or good garden soil. Thus, the pit will turn into a large “warm bed”, using which you can grow a wide variety of vegetable or berry crops.
Place to rest
If the site, on the contrary, is dry, well-drained and water never stagnates in the pit, you can arrange an excellent recreation area there with a place for a fire or barbecue. It may look like a separate garden, shallowly “recessed” compared to the level of the main plot.
Recreation area. Photo: Andrey Lysikov
How to do it?
To prevent the earth from crumbling, retaining walls made of brick or natural stone are built along the sides of the pit. For ease of access, stairs are built on one or both sides. The bottom of the pit is leveled, covered with a thick layer of crushed stone and sand, and then lined with flagstone or clinker (specially baked brick suitable for paving the street). Both in the pit itself and around it, in accordance with the planned plan, holes are dug, filled with nutritious substrate and ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as perennial and annual flowers, are planted. Garden furniture is placed on the paved surface, and a fire pit is organized there or a barbecue is installed. This cozy corner is sure to become your favorite relaxation spot!
Mysterious Pond
If the area is damp, with high groundwater levels, it is better not to fill the pit at all. On the contrary, in this case it is extremely valuable, since it can perform a drainage function, collecting excess water and reducing the level of “primer”. This leads to another option for using a pit - turning it into a garden pond.
How to do it?
So that the reservoir not only collects water, but also truly decorates your site, the foundation pit is given beautiful shape, changing the contour coastline and depth. A gravel cushion is poured onto the bottom, and large decorative stones are placed if desired. The banks of the resulting pond are planted with spectacular semi-aquatic vegetation (iris calamus, marsh butterfly, loosestrife, moisture-loving grasses, etc.) or decorated with a mesh of coconut fiber. Large containers with aquatic plants, for example, nymphs (water lilies), are placed at the bottom. For their successful wintering, a depth of 70-80 cm will be sufficient.
Lawn. Photo: Andrey Lysikov
Green lawn
And one last thing. An unnecessary pit can simply be filled with imported soil and a lawn or playground can be built in this place. But for this it is advisable to use only mineral substrates (sand, loam), and not plant residues. Organic materials (for example, tree trunks, branches and stumps) poured into the pit will gradually decompose and the surface of the soil in this area of the site will begin to sag, which will entail a lot of work for its subsequent leveling.
