Solar power plants are no longer a rarity in everyday life; they are increasingly helping to ensure home autonomy, increasing living comfort. With basic knowledge of electronics/electrical engineering, you can assemble a home solar station yourself, saving a lot of money. Solar power plants can be of three types: autonomous, networked (with generation into the network) and combined (a combination of networked and autonomous power plants). This article discusses an example of constructing an autonomous solar power plant, since this type of station is most in demand for solving the problem of backup power supply to a home.
Any solar power plant that produces alternating current consists of four basic elements:
Solar panels,
Battery charge controller,
Batteries,
Combined inverter - converter.
Note: nowadays it is not uncommon to have an inverter with a built-in battery charge controller; in the case of using such an inverter, the number of components of a solar power plant is reduced. But it must be taken into account that the use of a separate charge controller increases the reliability and possibility of upgrading a solar power plant.
In principle, these elements are enough for the complex to work and perform its functions.
However, if the complex is assembled correctly, strives to increase efficiency, durable operation, and also observe safety measures, some additional elements and knowledge will be needed.
Let's draw detailed diagram standard solar power plant and make a list of necessary/recommended elements.
List and purpose of all elements of a standard solar power plant
1. Solar panels
The quantity and power are selected depending on the load, the required duration of power supply and geographical location object.
2. Response connectors (male+female set)
The wires of most solar panels end in special waterproof connectors (MC4 connectors), which cannot be found in stores. Therefore, in addition to solar panels, it is necessary to purchase response connectors.
3. Wire between panels and charge controller
Since the solar panels are located outdoors and the equipment indoors, the distance between them is usually significant. Therefore, to reduce losses, it is very important to select a wire of the appropriate grade and cross-section.
It is also necessary to remember to protect the wire from negative factors. environment(solar radiation, precipitation, icing) and mechanical damage.
4. Charge controller
Necessary to ensure correct battery charging: correct current and voltage.
There are 2 types of controllers: legacy PWM (PWM) and modern MPPT.
PWM controllers (PWM) are inexpensive and provide the simplest charging mode. Their efficiency is low, there are no settings. Certain restrictions narrow the range of their use.
MPPT controllers are a little more expensive, but have a number of undeniable advantages: efficiency is 20-25% higher, intelligent control of battery charging modes, customization options (for more powerful models), and no strict connection to the input voltage from solar panels.
Power and voltage are selected depending on the number and power of solar panels, as well as batteries.
5. DC switch (before entering the controller)
Very important element, which many do not pay attention to.
Firstly, this machine can protect the controller from burnout in cases where the current from solar panels exceeds the controller’s rating (this happens with incorrectly selected equipment or on sunny days).
Secondly, and more importantly, it allows for safe maintenance of the entire complex. An important rule must be remembered: solar panels, when their electrical circuit is closed and they generate current, ALWAYS need a storage device (battery) or a consumer (any heating element). If you disconnect the battery or load from the controller and leave the panels connected, it will burn out. The reason is that the controller has nowhere to put the incoming energy from the panels.
6. DC switch (after output from controller)
This machine is needed to protect equipment from short circuits that may occur on the battery side.
7. Storage batteries
Their capacity, voltage and quantity are selected depending on the load, power supply time, as well as the characteristics of solar panels, charge controller and inverter.
8. Jumpers between batteries
Many people do not know that the quality of jumpers significantly affects the operation and life of the battery.
Good jumpers are short, thick (from 25-35 sq.mm.), made of copper, with tightly crimped tips.
10. An inverter for a solar power plant is perhaps the most important component.
The inverter converts D.C. in variable - for all household appliances.
The model and power are selected depending on the load, starting currents and battery voltage. In general, the ideal design of a solar power plant should be considered one where different groups of loads receive power from different inverters. Many companies produce inverters with a variety of properties. They may differ in the shape of the output signal (the simplest and cheapest output a rectangular signal, the so-called “meander”, the manufacturers of which, however, more often call it: modified sinusoid, simulated sinusoid, pseudo sinusoid, quasi sinusoid), the method of load compensation (due to conservation of voltage amplitude or curve area) applied circuit design(one or two voltage conversions, pulse or analog signal conversion).
Some inverters have built-in charger from the existing network (combined inverter) and can additionally charge the battery from the network, others can recharge the energy received from solar panels with energy from the network (hybrid inverters), still others can channel energy captured from the sun into the grid (grid or in-grid inverters). In general, the design of the inverter can be very diverse. A high-quality inverter must produce a pure sinusoidal signal with distortion less than 3%, not change the voltage amplitude when connecting the maximum load by more than 10%, carry out double conversion (the first is DC, the second is AC), have an analog part of the secondary conversion with a high-quality transformer , have a significant overload reserve and a set of protective functions against short circuits in the load, from improper connection to batteries, from overload, from battery malfunction, and to prevent deep discharge of batteries.
Meets all specified requirements inverter IR with output power from 1 to 6 kW.
This brief description of inverter types can help you choose the right inverter for your home (solar power plant).
11. Circuit breaker AC
Protects the inverter from overloads and failure if a short circuit occurs on the load side.
12. Protective grounding
This is not a device or a device. These are recommended measures for arranging protective grounding for equipment and people. Even if there is no extreme event (lightning, short circuit), static electricity accumulates on devices. It must be taken to the ground.
Autonomous power supply systems for suburban properties allow you to live in comfort even far from centralized communications. Often, along with traditional schemes, alternative ones are used, based on the use of solar energy.
In order for the solar system to function correctly, a well-designed solar panel connection diagram is required. You will need a set of high-quality equipment capable of coping with the assigned responsibilities.
We will tell you how to correctly plan the placement of mini-power plant components. You will learn how to choose technical devices for assembling the system and how to connect them correctly. Taking into account our advice, you can build an efficient installation.
Let's look at how the solar system works and works for country house. Its main purpose is to convert solar energy into 220 V electricity, which is the main power source for household electrical appliances.
The main parts that make up the SES:
- Batteries (panels) that convert solar radiation into direct voltage current.
- A controller that regulates the battery charge.
- Battery pack.
- An inverter that converts battery voltage to 220 V.
The design of the battery is designed in such a way that it allows the equipment to operate in various weather conditions, at temperatures from -35ºС to +80ºС.
It turns out that correctly installed ones will work with the same performance in both winter and summer, but under one condition - in clear weather, when the sun gives off maximum quantity heat. In cloudy conditions, work efficiency decreases sharply.
The efficiency of solar power plants in mid-latitudes is high, but not enough to fully supply large houses with electricity. More often, a solar system is considered as an additional or backup source of electricity
The weight of one 300 W battery is 20 kg. Most often, the panels are mounted on the roof, facade, or special racks installed next to the house. Necessary conditions: turning the plane towards the sun and an optimal tilt (on average 45° to the surface of the earth), ensuring a perpendicular incidence of the sun's rays.
If possible, install a tracker that tracks the movement of the sun and regulates the position of the panels.
The top plane of the batteries is protected by tempered shockproof glass, which can easily withstand hail impacts or heavy snow drifts. However, it is necessary to monitor the integrity of the coating, otherwise damaged silicon wafers (photocells) will stop working
The controller performs several functions. In addition to the main one - automatic regulation of the battery charge, it regulates the supply of energy from solar panels, thereby protecting the battery from complete discharge.
When fully charged, the controller automatically disconnects the battery from the system. Modern devices are equipped with a control panel with a display showing battery voltage.
For homemade solar systems best choice are gel batteries, characterized by a period of uninterrupted operation of 10-12 years. After 10 years of operation, their capacity decreases by approximately 15-25%. These are maintenance-free and absolutely safe devices that do not emit harmful substances.
In winter or cloudy weather, the panels also continue to work (if they are regularly cleared of snow), but energy production is reduced by 5-10 times
It is worth knowing that household power plants are capable of servicing a constantly running refrigerator, a periodically running submersible pump, a TV, and a lighting system. To provide energy for the functioning of a boiler or even a microwave oven, more powerful and very expensive equipment will be required.
The simplest diagram of a solar power plant, including the main components. Each of them performs its own function, without which the operation of the SES is impossible
There are other, more complex ones, but this solution is universal and the most popular in everyday life.
Steps for connecting batteries to solar power plant equipment
The connection occurs in stages, usually in the following order: first, the controller is connected to the battery, then the controller is connected to the solar panels, then the battery is connected to the inverter, and lastly, the wiring is done to consumers.
Step #1: Connecting to Battery
Batteries occupy a clearly defined place in the network. They are not connected to the solar panels directly, but through a controller that regulates their loading/unloading. On the other hand, the battery pack is connected to an inverter that converts the current.
Thus, the connection diagram to the battery looks like this:
- We connect the battery/controller (then the controller/solar panels);
- connect the battery and inverter.
Other connection options are possible, but this one is optimal, as it saves unspent energy and, if necessary, transfers it to consumers.
There are two options for purchasing batteries: as part of a solar power plant that is completely ready for installation or separately, according to specified parameters. An inexpensive Chinese kit costs no more than 2000 rubles
If one battery is not enough, purchase several batteries with the same characteristics. They are installed in one place and connected in series.
For ease of use and maintenance, the blocks are installed on a metal rack with a polymer coating.
Let's look at how the battery is connected to the controller and inverter.
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The next step is to connect the controller to the solar panels and the battery pack to the inverter.
Step #2: connecting to the controller
Let's consider an option that is often used in practice by owners of country houses. They order inexpensive equipment made in China on one of the Internet sites.
A budget controller with a minimum number of settings, equipped with three pairs of terminals, capable of servicing a 150 W solar battery pack. Cost – 1300 rubles
Connection occurs in the following order:
- First, a battery pack is connected to the controller. This is done intentionally to check how the device will detect the rated mains voltage (standard values - 12 V, 24 V). When connecting to the battery, use the first pair of terminals.
- Then the solar panels are connected directly, using the wires supplied with them, and the controller has a second pair of terminals.
- Lastly, night lighting equipment is installed. I – this is exactly what the third pair of terminals is for. Apart from low-voltage lighting, which operates only after dark and is powered by a battery, no other equipment can be used.
For any type of connection, you must ensure polarity.
Failure to comply with the polarity leads to instant failure of the controller, as well as failure of solar panel parts.
After connecting the controller to the battery and panels, we connect the inverter and, if necessary, low-voltage lighting devices.
The installation location of the inverter in the solar power plant system is between battery pack and energy consumers, that is, home appliances, lighting devices, etc. (+)
The device is purchased in the same way as the rest of the solar system: as part of the SES kit or separately.
Procedure for connecting the inverter to the battery:
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We take the device out of the box, check it for integrity, and remove the protective films. We study the instructions so as not to make mistakes when connecting
Along with the device, the kit necessarily contains 2 wires with special terminals and “crocodiles” for connecting it to the battery.
The special cable that comes with the inverter is very easy to install: the terminals are placed on the contacts of the device and secured with plastic screw caps
Connecting to the battery is also very simple: we fix two special clamps on the battery contacts, observing the polarity - plus to plus, minus to minus
If you have not previously installed solar power plants, we recommend purchasing not individual devices, but a complete system.
The advantage of a ready-to-install system is that it matches the equipment parameters (batteries correctly selected for power, the required number of solar panels, a set of wires for quick connection).
It is logical that devices compatible in capacity, voltage and power will be much more efficient at converting solar energy and providing the house with electricity. In fact, free “green energy” can be used with heating systems
Video #3. Overview of one of the home installation options:
The use of alternative energy for the needs of humanity is truly a big technological leap. Today, every homeowner can independently assemble and connect a solar power plant that supplies the house with electricity. Taking into account the cost-effectiveness and environmental friendliness, this is a practical and effective solution.
Would you like to tell us about how you assembled a small solar power station with your own hands? Eat interesting facts and useful information on the topic of the article? Please write comments in the block below, share your impressions, opinions and thematic photographs.
For decades now, humanity has been searching for alternative energy sources that can at least partially replace existing ones. And the most promising of all today seem to be two: wind and solar energy.
True, neither one nor the other can provide continuous production. This is due to the variability of the wind rose and daily-weather-seasonal fluctuations in the intensity of the solar flux.
Today's energy industry offers three main methods of obtaining electrical energy, but all of them are harmful to the environment in one way or another:
- Fuel electric power industry- the most environmentally polluting, accompanied by significant emissions of carbon dioxide, soot and useless heat into the atmosphere, causing a reduction in the ozone layer. The extraction of fuel resources for it also causes significant harm to the environment.
- Hydropower is associated with very significant landscape changes, flooding of useful lands, and causes damage to fisheries resources.
- Nuclear energy- the most environmentally friendly of the three, but requires very significant costs to maintain safety. Any accident can be associated with causing irreparable, long-term harm to nature. In addition, it requires special measures for the disposal of used fuel waste.
Strictly speaking, there are several ways to obtain electricity from solar radiation, but most of them use its intermediate conversion into mechanical power, rotating the generator shaft, and only then into electrical power.
Such power plants exist, they use Stirling external combustion engines, they have good efficiency, but they also have a significant drawback: in order to collect as much solar radiation energy as possible, it is necessary to manufacture huge parabolic mirrors with systems for tracking the position of the sun.
It must be said that there are solutions to improve the situation, but they are all quite expensive.
There are methods that make it possible to directly convert light energy into electric current. And although the phenomenon of the photoelectric effect in the semiconductor selenium was discovered already in 1876, it was only in 1953, with the invention of the silicon photocell, that the real possibility of creating solar cells for generating electricity arose.
At this time, a theory was already emerging that made it possible to explain the properties of semiconductors and create practical technology their industrial production. To date, this has resulted in a real semiconductor revolution.
The operation of a solar battery is based on the phenomenon of semiconductor photoelectric effect p-n junction, which is essentially a regular silicon diode. When illuminated, a photovoltage of 0.5~0.55 V appears at its terminals.
When using electric generators and batteries, it is necessary to take into account the differences that exist between. By connecting a three-phase electric motor to the appropriate network, you can triple its output power.
By following certain recommendations, with minimal costs in terms of resources and time, you can manufacture the power part of a high-frequency pulse converter for domestic needs. You can study the structural and circuit diagrams of such power supplies.
Structurally, each element of a solar battery is made in the form of a silicon wafer with an area of several cm2, on which many such photodiodes connected into a single circuit are formed. Each such plate is a separate module that produces a certain voltage and current when exposed to sunlight.
By connecting such modules into a battery and combining their parallel-serial connection, you can obtain a wide range of output power values.
The main disadvantages of solar panels:
- Great unevenness and irregularity of energy output depending on the weather and the seasonal height of the sun.
- Limits the power of the entire battery if at least one part of it is shaded.
- Dependence on the direction of the sun at different times of the day. To use the battery as efficiently as possible, you need to ensure that it is always aimed at the sun.
- In connection with the above, the need for energy storage. The greatest energy consumption occurs at a time when its production is minimal.
- Large area required for a structure of sufficient power.
- The fragility of the battery design, the need to constantly clean its surface from dirt, snow, etc.
- Solar modules operate most efficiently at 25°C. During operation, they are heated by the sun to much more high temperature, greatly reducing their effectiveness. To maintain optimal efficiency, the battery must be kept cool.
It should be noted that developments of solar cells using latest materials and technology. This allows you to gradually eliminate the disadvantages inherent in solar panels or reduce their impact. Thus, the efficiency of the newest cells using organic and polymer modules has already reached 35% and there are expectations of reaching 90%, and this makes it possible to obtain much more power with the same battery dimensions, or, while maintaining energy efficiency, to significantly reduce the dimensions of the battery.
By the way, the average efficiency of a car engine does not exceed 35%, which suggests that solar panels are quite effective.
There are developments of elements based on nanotechnology that work equally effectively at different angles of incident light, which eliminates the need for their positioning.
Thus, today we can talk about the advantages of solar panels compared to other energy sources:
- No mechanical energy conversions or moving parts.
- Minimal operating costs.
- Durability 30~50 years.
- Quiet operation, no harmful emissions. Environmental friendliness.
- Mobility. The battery for powering a laptop and charging the battery for an LED flashlight will fit in a small backpack.
- Independence from the presence of constant current sources. The ability to recharge the batteries of modern gadgets in the field.
- Undemanding to external factors. Solar cells can be placed anywhere, on any landscape, as long as they receive enough sunlight.
In the equatorial regions of the Earth, the average solar energy flux is on average 1.9 kW/m 2. IN middle lane In Russia it is within 0.7~1.0 kW/m2. The efficiency of a classic silicon photocell does not exceed 13%.
As experimental data show, if a rectangular plate is directed with its plane to the south, to the point of solar maximum, then over a 12-hour sunny day it will receive no more than 42% of the total luminous flux due to a change in its angle of incidence.
This means that with an average solar flux of 1 kW/m2, 13% battery efficiency and its total efficiency of 42% can be obtained in 12 hours no more than 1000 x 12 x 0.13 x 0.42 = 622.2 Wh, or 0 .6 kWh per day from 1 m 2. This is assuming a full sunny day, in cloudy weather it is much less, and in the winter months this value must be divided by another 3.
Taking into account voltage conversion losses, an automation circuit that provides optimal charging current for batteries and protects them from overcharging, and other elements, the figure of 0.5 kWh/m 2 can be taken as a basis. With this energy, you can maintain a battery charge current of 3 A at a voltage of 13.8 V for 12 hours.
That is, to charge a completely discharged car battery with a capacity of 60 Ah, a solar panel of 2 m2 will be required, and for 50 Ah - approximately 1.5 m2.
In order to obtain such power, you can purchase ready-made panels produced in the electrical power range of 10~300 W. For example, one 100 W panel for a 12-hour daylight hours, taking into account the coefficient of 42%, will provide 0.5 kWh.
Such a Chinese-made panel made of monocrystalline silicon with very good characteristics now costs about 6,400 rubles on the market. Less effective in open sun, but having better performance in cloudy weather, polycrystalline - 5,000 rubles.
If you have certain skills in installing and soldering electronic equipment, you can try to assemble such a solar battery yourself. At the same time, you should not count on a very large gain in price; in addition, the finished panels are of factory quality, both the elements themselves and their assembly.
But the sale of such panels is not organized everywhere, and their transportation requires very strict conditions and will be quite expensive. In addition, with self-production, it becomes possible, starting small, to gradually add modules and increase the output power.
Selection of materials for creating a panel
Chinese online stores, as well as eBay, offer a wide selection of items for self-made solar batteries with any parameters.
Even in the recent past, home-made workers purchased plates that were rejected during production, had chips or other defects, but were significantly cheaper. They are quite efficient, but have a slightly reduced power output. Given the constant decline in prices, this is now hardly advisable. After all, losing on average 10% of power, we also lose in the effective panel area. Yes and appearance The battery, consisting of plates with broken pieces, looks quite makeshift.
You can also purchase such modules in Russian online stores, for example, molotok.ru offers polycrystalline elements with operating parameters at luminous flux 1.0 kW/m2:
- Voltage: idling - 0.55 V, operating - 0.5 V.
- Current: short circuit - 1.5 A, working - 1.2 A.
- Operating power - 0.62 W.
- Dimensions - 52x77 mm.
- Price 29 rub.
Advice: It is necessary to take into account that the elements are very fragile and some of them may be damaged during transportation, so when ordering you should provide some reserve for their quantity.
Making a solar battery for your home with your own hands
To make a solar panel, we need a suitable frame, which you can make yourself or pick up a ready-made one. The best material to use for it is duralumin; it is not susceptible to corrosion, is not afraid of dampness, and is durable. With appropriate processing and painting, both steel and even wood are suitable for protection from precipitation.
Advice: You should not make the panel very large: it will be inconvenient to assemble the elements, install and maintain. In addition, small panels have low windage and can be more conveniently placed at the required angles.
We calculate components
Let's decide on the dimensions of our frame. To charge a 12-volt acid battery, you need operating voltage not lower than 13.8 V. Let's take 15 V as a basis. To do this, we will have to connect 15 V / 0.5 V = 30 elements in series.
Tip: The output of the solar panel should be connected to the battery through a protective diode to prevent it from self-discharging at night through the solar cells. So the output of our panel will be: 15 V – 0.7 V = 14.3 V.
To obtain a charging current of 3.6 A, we need to connect three such chains in parallel, or 30 x 3 = 90 elements. It will cost us 90 x 29 rubles. = 2610 rub.
Tip: Solar panel elements are connected in parallel and in series. It is necessary to maintain equality in the number of elements in each sequential chain.
With this current we can provide a standard charge mode for a completely discharged battery with a capacity of 3.6 x 10 = 36 Ah.
In reality, this figure will be less due to uneven sunlight throughout the day. Thus, to charge a standard 60 Ah car battery, we will need to connect two such panels in parallel.
This panel can provide us with an electrical power of 90 x 0.62 W ≈ 56 W.
Or during a 12-hour sunny day, taking into account the correction factor of 42% 56 x 12 x 0.42 ≈ 0.28 kWh.
Let's place our elements in 6 rows of 15 pieces. To install all the elements we need a surface:
- Length - 15 x 52 = 780 mm.
- Width - 77 x 6 = 462 mm.
To freely accommodate all the plates, we will take the dimensions of our frame: 900×500 mm.
Tip: If there are ready-made frames with other dimensions, you can recalculate the number of elements in accordance with the outlines given above, select elements of other standard sizes, and try to place them by combining the length and width of the rows.
We will also need:
- Electric soldering iron 40 W.
- Solder, rosin.
- Installation wire.
- Silicone sealant.
- Double-sided tape.
Manufacturing stages
To install the panel, it is necessary to prepare a level workplace sufficient area with convenient access from all sides. It is better to place the element plates themselves separately to the side, where they will be protected from accidental impacts and falls. You should take them carefully, one at a time.
Residual current devices improve the safety of your home electrical system by reducing the likelihood of electrical shock and fires. Detailed introduction to the characteristic features different types Residual current switches will tell you for apartments and houses.
When using an electric meter, situations arise when it needs to be replaced and reconnected - you can read about this.
Typically, to produce a panel, they use the method of gluing plates of elements pre-soldered into a single circuit onto a flat base-substrate. We offer another option:
- We insert it into the frame, fasten it well and seal the edges with glass or a piece of plexiglass.
- We lay out the element plates on it in the appropriate order, gluing them with double-sided tape: the working side to the glass, the soldering leads to the back side of the frame.
- By placing the frame on the table with the glass down, we can conveniently solder the terminals of the elements. We carry out electrical installation in accordance with the chosen circuit diagram inclusions.
- We finally glue the plates on the back side with tape.
- We put some kind of damping pad: sheet rubber, cardboard, fiberboard, etc.
- We insert the back wall into the frame and seal it.
If desired, instead of the back wall, you can fill the frame at the back with some kind of compound, for example, epoxy. True, this will eliminate the possibility of disassembling and repairing the panel.
Of course, one 50 W battery is not enough to power even a small house. But with its help it is already possible to implement lighting in it using modern LED lamps.
For a comfortable existence of a city dweller, at least 4 kWh of electricity is now required per day. For a family - according to the number of its members.
Therefore, the solar panel of a private house for a family of three should provide 12 kWh. If the home is supposed to be supplied with electricity only from solar energy, we will need a solar battery with an area of at least 12 kWh / 0.6 kWh/m2 = 20 m2.
This energy must be stored in batteries with a capacity of 12 kWh / 12 V = 1000 Ah, or approximately 16 batteries of 60 Ah each.
For normal operation of a battery with a solar panel and its protection, a charge controller is required.
To convert 12 VDC to 220 VAC, you will need an inverter. Although now there is already a sufficient quantity of electrical equipment on the market for voltages of 12 or 24 V.
Tip: In low-voltage power supply networks, currents operate at significantly higher values, so when wiring to high-power equipment, you should select a wire of the appropriate cross-section. Wiring for networks with an inverter is carried out according to the usual 220 V circuit.
Drawing conclusions
Subject to the accumulation and rational use of energy, today non-traditional types of electric power are beginning to create a significant increase in the total volume of its production. One could even argue that they are gradually becoming traditional.
Considering the recently significantly reduced level of energy consumption of modern household appliances, the use of energy-saving lighting devices and the significantly increased efficiency of solar panels of new technologies, we can say that they are already capable of providing electricity for a small private house in southern countries with a large number of sunny days a year.
In Russia, they may well be used as backup or additional sources energy in combined power supply systems, and if their efficiency can be increased to at least 70%, then it will be quite possible to use them as the main suppliers of electricity.
Video on how to make a device for collecting solar energy yourself
Greetings to all readers, I want to tell you about my solar power plant, the power of which reaches a kilowatt per hour. Now I have carried out a complete modernization of the entire system. At first I had only four solar panels, two Krasnodar ones of 75 watt*h, and two assembled from elements purchased on eBay.
The controller used a simple cheap PWM at 24 volts 20A. The entire solar power plant produced up to 230 watt*h. Now I have installed 6 panels of 50 watt*h and 2 panels of 100 watt*h. The total power of these panels was 500 watt*h. By the way, the panels are made in Germany. I connected the panels at 24 volts, two in parallel and then in series. Operating voltage 39V.
Today at one o'clock in the afternoon I carried out the first test results, and received almost the calculated power, despite the slight haze in the sky. In the photo of the panel in the top row, there are 2 German panels on the left, 100 watt*h each, and on the right, Krasnodar ones, 75 watt*h each, but they are not connected, since they have an operating point voltage lower than the others by 2 volts.
The controller readings show a recorded power of 490 watt*h.
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The controller charges six 120Ah AGM batteries; I used them in my electric car before. I connected two in series at 24 volts and in parallel. Energy is taken from the batteries using two inverters using a pure sine wave. One only powers lighting throughout the house and adjacent buildings, its power is 500 watt*h. The second one is more powerful, it is used to power powerful consumers, it is 1.5 aWh with a short-term load of up to 3 kWh for 10 seconds.
DIY portable solar battery.
Also, here are some more photos of a solar portable power station made for one of my friends. The power of the panels is 100 watts, and can be switched to charge 12/24 volt batteries as long as the corresponding controller is installed. But the controller is ordinary, so the maximum current is 6A. Well, in general it turned out well, although it was very simple.
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Let's return to the main power plant. I just finished installing 1kW solar panels. An inverter with 3.5 kW continuous power was also purchased in China, pure sine wave. The MPPT controller TS-MPPT-45 is busy charging the batteries. The total battery capacity is 7 kW*h.
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The first data and readings were recorded sometime during the day, despite the high temperature outside and a slight haze in the sky, the power plant produced 900 watts, the result met all expectations. In winter, I think there will be more power since our skies are clearer in winter and the low temperature will not allow the solar panels to overheat.
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In general, the power plant is still working fine, although the house is connected to the central power grid, but the lighting in the house is now completely powered by solar energy. Just recently, the electricity was cut off for a day, some kind of repair work was going on, there wasn’t a light around, one of my windows had lights on all evening. By the way, the output from the panels is not only full for 1-2 hours a day, but almost all daylight hours, even with indirect sunlight, the panels provide more than 50% of the possible power. The article was written based on materials >>source
Buying a solar installation for your home or cottage is not difficult. But the price of such systems is often excessively high. Meanwhile, making them with your own hands is not such an impossible process as it seems at first glance. It is enough to select the necessary components and make the appropriate calculations. Of course, certain skills in working with electrical equipment are also required (for connecting batteries, inverters, etc.).
What is needed for this?
A homemade solar power plant should consist of several main parts. All of them are quite affordable and are sold in specialized stores.
Photomodules
First of all, the photocells themselves are needed. Their number and area are determined based on energy consumption standards and average solar geographic activity. Each module can be assembled independently by purchasing only silicon photocells. You can also purchase ready-made solar blocks if their parameters meet all the requirements.
Batteries
Their presence is necessary to prevent power supply interruptions. If the solar power plant is not combined with other energy sources, then these batteries will support the life support of the house on cloudy days.
Charge controllers
They are electronic devices designed to protect batteries from excessive charging/discharging. When the battery is fully charged, they reduce the current generated by the solar module to a value that allows them to compensate for self-discharge. In the event of a critical discharge, these controllers interrupt the supply of electricity to household devices. If you assemble a solar power plant yourself and equip it with similar devices, the service life of the installation will increase significantly.
Inverters
These are devices that convert direct current from solar cells into alternating current, from which all household equipment is “powered”. Inverters also produce better quality electricity than what comes from the local grid. As a rule, making a solar power station with your own hands involves the use of sinusoidal models. The fact is that such inverters are less expensive and are ideal for home networks. Another purpose of these devices is to act as a kind of “buffer” between the home energy system and the utility one, which allows the excess generated electricity to be transferred to the general network.
Cables
Not a single solar power plant can do without special patching cables. To minimize energy losses, cables between system elements must run along the shortest paths and have an appropriate cross-section (at least 4-6mm2). External cables must be resistant to all weather conditions.
Layout features
In order for the solar power plant you create to operate as efficiently as possible, it must be designed according to a certain scheme. Briefly, this diagram can be depicted as follows. Direct current from the photocells is supplied to the charge controller. As a rule, it passes through a special junction box. After the controller, the current flows to the battery, and part of it is used to store energy. Behind the battery is an inverter that converts this direct current into alternating current. Next, the energy flow is distributed to household loads. Moreover, it is best to use a different inverter for each group of loads.
Installation of a home solar station
First of all, it is necessary to place solar modules on the roof of the house. It must be remembered that they must be located at right angles to the incident rays, and the deviation should not exceed 15°. Moreover, if the solar power plant will operate all year round, then the batteries must be placed at an angle of +15° relative to the geographic latitude. For summer use, it is better to stick to an angle of -15°.
As a rule, solar modules are installed in rows on sloping roofs, one row above the other. This installation implies the need to maintain the distance between the rows. This is necessary so that the modules do not obscure each other. This distance should be at least 1.7 times the height of the photo batteries themselves.
It is better to place all additional equipment (inverters, batteries, charging controllers, etc.) in a separate technical room. In this case, the length of the patch cables (and therefore energy losses) will be reduced, and the assembled system will work more efficiently.
