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To private house there was an influx fresh air, and also the already contaminated one is removed, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.
Natural ventilation
At the design stage of a house, a natural ventilation scheme must be drawn up. The principle of its operation is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of the air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the removal of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet space is called wet.
You can ventilate your house in four ways:
- channel, when the house is equipped with vertically located channels.
- ductless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
- permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through air ducts.
- periodic, when “new” air enters at certain intervals.
To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are installed on the exhaust ducts, which can operate either continuously or at set times. Accordingly, such equipment requires a connection to the power supply network.
Advantages
According to the principle of operation, it is divided into:
- supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Another variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then, already purified, is returned to the room;
- supply air with the possibility of heating. To operate the system according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust but already heated air;
- supply air with cooling. Air conditioning is required here;
- supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is ensured by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.
However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the house construction plan. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the removal of already used air to the street.
The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:
- grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
- filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
- air valves that regulate the flow of air supplied to the house. In winter, protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
- fans used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
- sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
- heaters that heat the incoming air;
- ventilation ducts that allow air to move.
How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home
Manufacturers of hoods provide consumers with three main modifications of devices:
- hanging;
- built-in;
- dome or fireplace.
Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models that operate in recirculation mode.
But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the air duct must coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the kitchen hood will work in increased mode, which will lead to rapid engine failure.
The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. To do this, a special grille is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device has finished operating. This mode of operation allows the natural air circulation system to operate fully.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
Task installed ventilation in the bathroom comes down to cleaning this room from various odors and eliminating high humidity.
Since the operation of a natural hood is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which include simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts long and uninterrupted operation.
Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Device manufacturers also offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system begins to operate when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room.
Depending on the material used, decorative designs are:
- plastic;
- wooden;
- steel;
- made of MDF, chipboard or plasterboard.
However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure must be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case will the decorative box fit into the overall design of the room.
Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands
Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And to do this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.
We believe that FORUMHOUSE users will agree with the statement that a competent approach to the ventilation system is as follows - first of all, it is necessary to calculate the air exchange, then, based on this data, select the required cross-section of air ducts. And only after this can you draw up a ventilation scheme for the cottage and determine the installation location of ventilation equipment.
Types and features
According to the user our portal (nickname on the forumpetrovk, Moscow) ventilation in the house can be divided into three types:
- Natural;
- Inflow, or as it is also called, mechanical;
- Supply and exhaust unit with heat recovery.
petrovk:
– When designing a ventilation system, you must be guided by the following principle – The air in the house should be completely renewed within 1 hour. For my frame house 200 m2, I settled on a flow-exhaust installation with heat recovery. The installation is selected based on the number of cubic meters of air in the house, I have 600, I took the installation for 700 cubic meters.
It should be remembered that a comfortable environment in the house is created not only by the supply of fresh air, but also by the speed of air flow. Supply and exhaust ventilation, due to the presence of a fan in it, creates a greater air flow than natural ventilation.
When mechanical ventilation is operating, the air movement speed in the ventilation system is on average 3-5 m3/hour, and with natural ventilation it is about 1m3/hour. Let's try to figure out whether natural ventilation creates a more comfortable environment in the house. This question is not as simple as it seems. After all, in order to pass the same volume of air through the mechanical and natural ventilation systems, a different cross-section of the ventilation duct is required. This means that the installation of natural ventilation will entail an increase in the cross-section of the channel, which is not always possible from a technical or aesthetic point of view.
With any type of ventilation - regardless of whether it is natural or mechanical - it is necessary to ensure unhindered air movement throughout the house.
One option is to install doors with a cross-flow grille in the rooms or leave a small gap between the door and the floor. To properly organize the flow of air, it is necessary that the air be taken in in the cleanest room, the living room or bedroom, and taken out in the kitchen or bathroom.
In the kitchen, above the stove, the hood should run through a separate channel. If the hood is forced, then the kitchen and bathroom can be combined with one ventilation duct. The diameter from inlet to outlet should not decrease. Due to the specific nature of the kitchen hood, the air duct from it must be round, galvanized and vertical, without elbows. Do not use corrugated, aluminum or plastic ductwork.
Consultant of our forumElena Gorbunova(nickname on the forum Matilda ):
– Natural ventilation works when there is a pressure difference between the inlet and outlet. The entrance is an exhaust valve; it is placed in the ceiling of the room or in the wall under the ceiling. The exit is the top of the pipe. The drop starts from 10 meters. The pressure difference also depends on the temperature difference. It is better in winter and worse in summer.
Natural inflow is made over heating appliances, which are usually located under the windows. Or two meters above the floor.
The question often arises,
Is it possible to combine the ventilation ducts of the kitchen, bathroom and boiler room into a single system, then install a duct fan, and take everything out through the roof with one pipe.
User of our forum Vladimir(nickname on the forum Carefree angel ) believes that:
– Under no circumstances should you combine the exhaust hood with the sewer, then the whole house will smell like a toilet, regardless of whether the air duct is installed before or after the fan.
Also great value It also has the material from which the ventilation ducts for a private home are made. One of the most optimal options- use of spiral-wound galvanized air ducts. But when self-installation developers massively use ventilation ducts made from a sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm.
Matilda
:
– Sewage pipes cannot be used. In general, plastic cannot be used for air ducts, unless these are special antistatic pipes. In this case, dust will stick to the walls. Besides sewer pipes have a small diameter. And the draft directly depends on the diameter of the air duct and the height difference. The difference in the cottages is quite small - this is not a high-rise building. This means that with a small diameter, there will be practically no traction, especially in summer. And if you install a fan, the sewer pipes will make a very unpleasant sound when the air moves.
Air ducts for ventilation for private homes - requirements and features
For the ventilation system to work with maximum efficiency it is necessary that inner surface the air duct provided minimal resistance to air movement. Let's see how to choose the right one V air ducts for ventilation of your home.
Matilda :
– Main task
ducting is to allow air to move freely from the point of air intake to the point of its exit. And be safe from an environmental and fire safety point of view. Any loss of pressure greatly affects or eliminates air exchange during natural ventilation. Pressure losses arise from the uneven surface of the air duct, in horizontal sections, in elbows, tees, etc. With a rectangular duct, the losses are higher than with a round one, and dust accumulates in them well.
Flexible - corrugated air duct has the greatest air resistance. And it is best used when it is necessary to make a turn or attach a kitchen hood to the ventilation duct.
Very often, developers, for various reasons, do not want to install the outlet through the roof, preferring to install the ventilation duct through the wall. This is not correct.
Matilda
:
– Never, under any circumstances, vent through a wall. You'll ruin the façade.
Within a couple of years there will be a visible stain on the wall around the exit.
A natural ventilation Thus, it is also pointless to derive, since there will be absolutely no difference in height, and, accordingly, pressure.
If, with a forced ventilation system, all air ducts are connected by elbows and adapters to one vertical duct, then it is recommended to install an E190P fan on the roof.
To control this fan, a thyristor speed controller is placed in a convenient place. And the air ducts themselves are taken with a diameter of 125 mm.
At FORUMHOUSE you will find an article about, a lot useful information, fascinating discussionchoice And after reading our video, youYou will be able to clearly see how an integrated approach to ventilation allows you not only to provide your home with fresh air, but also to save money.
To reduce the noise level caused by vibration of the pipe, I advise you to wrap it with batting.
Manufacturing the air cleaner box and pipe
After organizing the air duct, you can begin to manufacture the frame of the hood box from plasterboard. The shape of the air purifier can be varied, but most often self-made devices are made in a dome shape. This is done as follows.
From metal profile the box is made. Its dimensions should be such as to slightly exceed the diameter of the corrugated pipe used as an air duct. The box is attached to the kitchen ceiling.
The lower frame for the exhaust device is made from a starting profile and fixed to the wall of the room. After this, parts of the frame are cut out of the profile, which subsequently connect the lower base to the box.
The side surfaces of the exhaust dome are equipped with additional jumpers to increase the rigidity of the structure.
The plasterboard frame is ready. Now you need to cut a hole in the air duct to remove the corrugation. The final stage Forming a homemade hood involves covering the constructed frames with plasterboard.
Air cleaner trim
The preparatory operations have been completed and finishing work can begin.
After covering the structure with sheets of plasterboard, the corners are strengthened using perforated corners. After this, the dome for the exhaust hood without a fan is puttied. At this stage, plasterboard seams and fasteners are hidden.
After preparatory work You can begin to implement any design ideas in the process of decorative finishing of the hood. The product is coated with paint, varnish, and decorated with painting or decorative stones.
Active plywood hood
To organize an active exhaust system, the central element is the motor, thanks to which air will be sucked into the air duct. Making a homemade exhaust fan is quite difficult; it requires knowledge in this topic. Therefore, to assemble a homemade kitchen hood, you should take an old device that is in working condition as a basis. If there is none, the solution would be to purchase an inexpensive model that is suitable in performance and size.
The manufacture of an active type kitchen hood begins with the assembly of the body. First, the lower frame is assembled, on which the engine and exhaust grille are installed. Next, the main frame elements are manufactured and attached to the base. A homemade kitchen hood can be of any desired shape, so the components are made depending on personal preferences. It is important to consider one point here: the air duct pipe must be placed inside the frame.
Air cleaner trim parts are made from . Next, they are sequentially glued to the frame. After the glue has completely dried, the surface of the plywood is sanded and puttied.
The hood should be as useful as possible
The final stage of manufacturing a decorative hood for an active kitchen is the process of its decoration. Depending on preference, the air purifier can be painted, varnished, or lined with other materials.
WATCH THE VIDEO
The finished device must be connected to the building's ventilation system. To do this, the air purifier is mounted using fasteners, after which the air duct is connected to it. If necessary, it can also be hidden in a decorative box.
Adhering to the recommendations outlined, making a hood in the kitchen of an apartment or private house is no more difficult than attaching a purchased device. In addition, this option will allow you to produce a product that matches the style and character of the interior. Now you know how to make a hood in the kitchen.
Natural ventilation channels
For effective ventilation, Each room of the house must have two ventilation devices: one is for air supply, the other is for removing air from the room.
Every room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust natural ventilation device according to one of three options:
- Supply valve in the window or external wall for air flow. Transfer hole into an adjacent room with an exhaust duct for air removal (hole in the door or internal wall, partition).
- For air flow - overflow hole from an adjacent room with a supply valve, and exhaust duct
- Inlet valve for inflow, And exhaust duct ventilation to remove air.
Check whether in the house or apartment where you currently live, whether all rooms have supply and exhaust ventilation devices?!
In which rooms should exhaust ventilation ducts be installed?
Exhaust ducts for natural ventilation must be provided from the following areas of the house:
- Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, laundry room.
- Kitchens.
- Dressing room, storage room - if the doors of the premises open into the living room. If the doors open onto a corridor (hall, kitchen), then you can do one of two things: arrange an exhaust duct from the premises or install a supply valve in a wall or window.
- The boiler room must have a ventilation duct and a supply valve.
- From rooms separated from rooms with a ventilation duct by more than two doors.
- On the floor above the first, subject to availability entrance doors from the stairs to the floor - ventilation ducts are made from the rooms indicated above, and/or from the corridor, hall.
- On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, a ventilation duct and a supply valve are installed in each room of the floor.
In other rooms of the house that do not have natural ventilation exhaust ducts, be sure to install a supply valve in a window or wall and a flow hole into the adjacent room.
In addition, natural ventilation exhaust ducts are used for ventilation:
- Sewer pipe riser.
Building rules (clause 6.5.8 SP 60.13330.2016) require in residential buildings for premises in which gas equipment (gas boilers, water heaters, stoves, etc.), provide mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical forced ventilation.
Location and dimensions of ventilation ducts
The minimum side size of the natural ventilation channel is 10 cm., and the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 m 2., which approximately corresponds to the diameter of a standard ventilation duct pipe - 150 mm.
Channel minimum size will provide air exhaust in a volume of 30 m 3 /hour with a vertical pipe length of more than 3 m. To increase the performance of the hood, the cross-sectional area of the channel or the length of the channel is increased. Channels less than 2 long m. do not provide the necessary intensity of natural ventilation.
In practice, the length of the ventilation duct on a floor is usually determined by design considerations - the number and height of the upper floors located above, the height of the attic, the length of the pipe above the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels must be the same. This is done so that the traction force in each channel on the floor is approximately the same.
The cross-sectional dimensions of the channels on the floor are often made the same, but for design reasons - it’s more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in a particular room on the floor is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.
Ventilation ducts from the premises of the house on different floors are placed side by side, combining them into a block of ventilation ducts.
For design reasons, they try to lay several ventilation ducts from rooms on the same floor side by side, in one place - to create a block of ventilation ducts.
The block of ventilation ducts in stone houses is usually placed inside the load-bearing frame interior wall at home or attached to a wall.
The block is laid out from masonry materials, for example, brick. In brickwork, it is convenient to make channels with a cross-section that is a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints - 140x140 mm. (1/2 x 1/2 brick, 196 cm 2) or 140x270 mm. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cm 2)
Double-channel expanded clay concrete ventilation block 390x190x188 mm. Flow area of one channel 168 cm 2 
Concrete blocks for laying ventilation ducts in a private house. Block height 33 cm., width 25 cm., wall thickness 4 cm. The flow area of one channel is 12x17 cm. (204 cm 2)
They produce hollow concrete blocks specially designed for laying ventilation ducts.
A block of ventilation ducts made of masonry materials must be supported on a foundation or on a reinforced concrete floor.
In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, the ventilation channel block is assembled from plastic or galvanized steel pipes. The block of pipes is covered with a box.
How to combine several channels into one channel
In a private house, the number of channels is small, so combining air flows from several channels (rooms or floors) into one, as is often done in apartment buildings, no need. Each natural ventilation channel in a private house should begin in the room and end at the head on the roof. Any combination of two or more channels impairs ventilation performance.
In some cases, there is still a need to combine several channels, to combine them into one common natural ventilation channel.
Read: Ventilation channel performance
Performance of a single exhaust ventilation channel with a cross section of 12x17 cm.(204 cm 2) from concrete blocks depending on the channel height and room temperature:
Capacity of natural ventilation channels with a cross section of 12 x 17 cm.(204 cm 2) depending on the channel height and room temperature (at an outside air temperature of 12 o C)
To determine performance for intermediate channel heights, plot the channel height versus performance graph.
Similar tables can be found for ventilation ducts that are made of other materials.
However, for ventilation ducts of the same cross-section (204 cm 2), but made from other materials, the performance will differ slightly from that indicated in the table.
For a channel of a different cross-section, the performance value from the table can be proportionally increased or decreased.
To increase the performance of a ventilation channel of the same height, it is necessary proportionally increase the cross-sectional area of the channel. To do this, for example, choose a concrete block with a larger hole, or use two or three channels of the above size to ventilate one room.
Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house
The building regulations specify the minimum required capacity of natural ventilation ducts. Typically, people feel better when more fresh air is supplied to the room than specified in the standards. The performance of the natural ventilation channel very much depends on atmospheric and other variable factors (air temperature inside and outside, wind pressure and direction, resistance to air flow into the room). All this suggests that for a private house there is no point in carefully performing calculations accurately. I recommend rounding the calculation results towards greater productivity of natural ventilation channels. During operation, if necessary, the channel capacity can be easily reduced.
Calculation of natural ventilation is carried out in order to determine the size of ventilation channels based on the volume of air removed.
When determining the volume of air removed through natural ventilation channels, it is taken into account that air enters rooms with supply valves from the street, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust channels, and is removed through the channels again to the street.
Calculation is being carried out for each floor at home in the following order:
- Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum volume of air that should come from the street for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q p, m 3 /hour.
- According to the standards, the amount of the minimum volume of air that must be go outside for ventilation all premises equipped with an exhaust ventilation duct - Q in, m 3 /hour.
- Compare the calculated minimum values of air flow from the street (Q p, m 3 /hour) and going outside (Q in, m 3 /hour). Usually one of the quantities turns out to be greater than the other. The larger of the two quantities is taken as the minimum design capacity of all exhaust ventilation channels on the floor— Q r, m 3 /hour.
- Based on the vertical dimensions of the house, the height of the natural ventilation channel on the floor is determined.
- Knowing the height of the ventilation channel, and the overall estimated minimum performance of all channels on the floor (Q p, m 3 / hour), According to the table (see above), the total number of standard channels made of concrete blocks is selected. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels must be no less than the value of Q p, m 3 / hour.
- The selected number of standard ducts are distributed between the rooms of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation ducts. When distributing, take into account the need to ensure standard air exchange in each individual room with a ventilation duct.
An example of calculating the natural ventilation of a private house
For example, let’s calculate natural ventilation in one-story house with a total floor area of 120 m 2. The house has five living rooms with a total area of 90 m 2, kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as a dressing room (storage room) with an area of 4.5 m 2. Room height - 3 m. The house is designed with natural ventilation of the underground space through a ventilation duct. Height of ventilated space under the floor 0.3 m. We use concrete blocks to install ventilation channels - see above.
Fan at the entrance to the natural ventilation channel
Continuation: for the next one
Good air circulation plays important role in ensuring a comfortable stay for people in residential premises. Therefore, still on initial stage During construction design, it is necessary to consider how to arrange ventilation for a detached residential building. A properly installed hood in a private home will ensure timely removal unpleasant odors and excess moisture from all interior rooms.
Types of ventilation systems
How to make a hood in a private house can be correctly understood if you have information about ventilation systems, the method of their installation, as well as having the skills and knowledge of the basics of construction and electrical installation.
According to the principle of operation, ventilation in the room is divided into natural and forced. By design, the hood in the house can be ducted or ductless, the difference between which is determined by the use of special ventilation ducts (ducts, pipes) in the system.
Natural ventilation
This system works due to the natural draft of air occurring between the supply and exhaust ducts. Fresh air flow enters the house:
- through unsealed building structures
- window vents
- slightly open doorways
- special supply wall valves
The exhaust air flows out through a system of exhaust ducts.
Ventilation ducts end outside the building:
- on the roof
- attic
- through the walls
The entry of new air masses occurs through living rooms, where the air is the cleanest in the house; The outflow occurs through utility and technical premises: kitchen, bathroom, toilet, boiler room, basement, where the concentration of moisture and contaminants is maximum.
With a small temperature difference environment and the interior of a private house (at least 12 degrees), the exhaust deteriorates and the effect of the natural ventilation system is greatly reduced.
Ways to improve natural ventilation
To increase the efficiency of air exchange without the use of additional mechanical devices, it is necessary to increase infiltration or ventilation of the living space.
Air infiltration is the minimum penetration of air flow through the cracks of window sashes, window blocks and openings, doors and doorways, through walls. To improve infiltration it is necessary:
- Use materials with breathable properties in construction (wood, adobe, porous blocks, ceramics).
- The windows of the building can be made of plastic, but with infiltration valves.
- Mount into walls supply valves for fresh air intake (near the window or closer to the heating radiators).
| Types of ventilation | Air renewal time | Action |
| Ajar windows | more than 1 hour |
|
| Brief ventilation with an open window | 7 – 8 minutes |
|
| Wide open windows and doors | 3 minutes |
|
Forced ventilation
Air exchange between indoor spaces and the street, in contrast to natural ventilation, is provided by mechanical devices: fans or monoblocks (2 fans in a single system). Forced air circulation is regulated by the performance of the fans.
The fan reduces the air density in the house by drawing part of it into the ventilation duct, at the inlet of which it is installed. As a result, there is a natural flow of fresh air from the living rooms.
Possible reasons for the ineffective operation of the forced ventilation system:
- fan power does not match the area of the room;
- lack of electricity supply.
There are several principles of forced ventilation in a private house:
- Exhaust
- air flow is drawn out by a fan
- air flow occurs naturally
- 1 fan is used
- Supply
- polluted air is extracted naturally
- fresh air flow from the street is pumped by a fan
- 1 fan is used
- Mixed (supply and exhaust)
- both air flows are moved by fans
- 2 fans are used
- has a recuperator to transfer heat from the exhaust air to the incoming air flow
- creates recirculation (mixing) of supply air and part of the exhaust, already exhaust air
Supply and exhaust forced ventilation completely controls both the intake and exhaust of air. The presence of filters purifies air flows, and recovery allows residents of a private house to save on heating.
Criteria for choosing the type of hood in a private household
To decide which ventilation system is best suited for a private home, you need to know the following factors:
- ecological cleanliness of the air environment of the area of residence
- building materials used for the construction of the building
- financial capabilities of the homeowner
If the house is not located in a metropolis, but in an environmentally friendly area, then it is advisable to use natural ventilation without additional energy-dependent devices. A prerequisite for installing forced exhaust in a private house is based on the need to thoroughly clean the incoming air flow. Also, a forced ventilation system will be required in buildings made of sealed materials, polystyrene foam concrete, and panels.
Ventilation requirements
After choosing a specific ventilation system for extracting exhaust air from the premises of a private house, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements for the arrangement of ventilation:
- The dimensions of ventilation pipes or ducts are taken more
- rectangular channel: 10 by 12 cm
- pipe: d=12.5 cm
- Ventilation ducts should go to the roof of the house and end above the ridge of the building (from 0.5 m to 1.5 m). To protect against the ingress of debris, dirt, and precipitation, a deflector or visor is installed on the pipe.
- The visor or deflector must be 2 times larger than the cross-section of the ventilation duct.
- The bathroom and toilet must have their own separate exhaust ducts.
- There are 2 hoods installed in the kitchen: above the stove (the size of the exhaust duct is at least 12.5 cm) and a backup one, in case of a gas leak.
- If necessary, 2 channels are combined only through a tee or cross with a check valve.
- The boiler room is equipped with two hoods:
- at the boiler (the size of the ventilation duct depends on the power of the heating boiler. You cannot make the hood from brick).
- reserve (same size as above the boiler)
- It is advisable to lay ventilation ducts only in vertical directions. In the case of horizontal layers, their length should not exceed 2 m (to avoid disruption of traction).
- It is better to make exhaust ducts in the wall from metal air ducts. When using brick air ducts, it is advisable to line them with metal.
- In a room that does not have windows or vents, a hood must be installed.
- The ventilation riser is equipped with a sealed inspection door.
- If ventilation was not initially installed in a private house, then the ventilation shaft is adjacent to the outside wall of the building with mandatory thermal insulation.
- Installing a ventilation hatch in the wall below 15 centimeters from the ceiling will lead to reduced draft and stagnation of air flow.
How to properly make a hood in a private house
To provide a private home with good ventilation, it is necessary to calculate the air exchange. Based on its readings, the type of ventilation system, the diameter of the pipes are selected, and a preliminary ventilation scheme is made.
The initial data for the calculation will be the total volume of two air flows (outflow and inflow). Also, when calculating a hood for a home, you should take into account sanitary standards and the area of the room.
According to the standards, air change (m 3 / h) differs for different types premises:
- bathroom (combined) – 50 m 3 /h;
- bathroom – 25 m 3 /h;
- toilet – 25 m 3 /h;
- kitchen – 60 m 3 /h;
- living room – 40 m 3 /h;
- sleeping area – 20 m 3 /h;
In a residential building for one square meter The area must have at least three cubic meters of replaced air flow. Therefore, when calculating the cross-section of ventilation ducts, it is taken into account that optimal value air movement should be in the central ventilation duct - 5 m/s, in the side channels - maximum 3 m/s.
The total performance of the hood in a small private house should be 300-350 m 3 /h. In a residential building with an area of 150-300 m 3, a productivity of 400 to 600 m 3 / h is required.
