Making cages for keeping rabbits. How to make a house for a rabbit with your own hands. Options for cell arrangement and features of animal separation

Rabbit breeders rarely buy ready-made factory cages. In the manufacture of the latter, today much attention is paid to the aesthetic side of premises for rabbits: such products are beautiful and original, but they are expensive and do not always meet maintenance standards. It is much more economical to make housing for rabbits from available materials with your own hands. This is within the capabilities of many animal breeders.

The external cage system for keeping rabbits is considered the most profitable and most appropriate to their physiology.

Cells can be produced from any building materials:

• brick;
• building blocks;
• boards and timber from any wood;
• metal mesh and die cutting;
• slate and roofing felt.

Beautiful and original designs for keeping rabbits

Classic double design

Double cage with permanent queen cell

The manger for roughage is hung outside, and the feeder and drinking bowl are placed inside. Sometimes a hole is constructed into a paddock surrounded by a metal mesh.

Option 1: with a permanent queen cell

The most common design for breeding rabbits at home is a cage for two rabbits, developed by scientists from the Institute of Fur and Rabbit Breeding almost 70 years ago.

Main dimensions:

• length 200 cm;
• width 65 cm;
• height of the facade wall 55 cm;
• rear wall height 40 cm.

The structure is installed on wooden supports at a height of 80 cm, this is the optimal value for convenient servicing of animals. For breeding large breeds, it is permissible to increase the width and height by 5-10 cm, and the length by 50 cm.

The nesting department is set up permanently. Basic requirements:

• plank or plywood floor;
• front length 40 cm;
• the width of the queen cell is equal to the width of the cell;
• manhole 20 cm high and 17 cm wide;
• the presence of an external door for monitoring the offspring.

The cage is separated by a hay manger made of two frames covered with a mesh with a mesh size of 35x35 mm. Mesh doors are installed on both sides of the aft compartments. Feeders and drinking bowls are mounted and removable.

Option 2: insert queen cells

The difference between cells with an inserted queen cell is that it is used as needed. The dimensions of the portable nest compartment are 40x30x20 cm, it is made of plywood. When installing it, the queen rabbit has an additional resting place at the top of the insert box.

The absence of a permanent nesting compartment allows you to slightly reduce the size of the house for rabbits:

• length 142 cm;
• width 70 cm;
• height of the front and back walls: 79 and 56 cm.

A design of this type is called Klenovo-Chegodaevsky. When the cages are not occupied by adult rabbits, they can contain young animals of 3-4 heads per place.

Insert queen cell

Need for building materials

The consumption of building materials for one double cage is:

• board, timber - 0.2 cubic meters. m;
• metal mesh for the floor with a cell 18x18 mm - 1.3 sq. m;
• mesh for walls with a cell of 35x35 mm - 0.6 sq. m.

Exterior view of a double cage

Group cages for young animals

The area requirement or planting density of young animals, sorted by age and sex, is 0.25 square meters. m per head, optimal joint keeping is up to 10 rabbits. Based on these figures, simple group dwellings are built. They can stretch up to 7 meters in length; groups are separated only by partitions in a common long cage.

The structure has a shelter 70 cm wide and a mesh run 1 meter wide. Single-tier structures are grouped into blocks for ease of maintenance.

In the south, housing for rabbits is installed with a facade facing west to avoid heat strokes in animals.

Roof and additional tiers

The roof of the cages is made of boards with a front overlap of 25-30 cm and a rear overlap of up to 20 cm.

The insulating roofing covering can be anything: profile, slate, roofing felt or other materials. But it is better to cover structures for keeping rabbits with natural materials, for example, reed or straw mats.

tiers

If you build a plank roof without a slope, and install another cage similar to the first one on top of it, you will get a two-tier structure. This is the optimal solution if there is not enough space to arrange cages on one floor, but on the condition that a metal or plastic tray for collecting feces is installed under the bottom of the top one.

Three-tier and multi-tier designs are possible. But in this case, difficulties may arise with servicing the upper cells.

Two-tier cages under a canopy

8 Basic Steps to Making a Cage

A detailed guide to making a house for rabbits, with all the variety of options for structures and methods of their construction, is based on one diagram.

Diagram of a classic double cage

Step-by-step instructions for making a cage:

1. 1. A drawing is drawn up or a standard version of the cell is taken.
2. 2. A place for the rabbitry is determined, on which, according to the dimensions in the plan, supports from wooden (brick, stone, block, metal) pillars are installed.
3. 3. The reference points are connected (connected) to each other by wooden beams in a single plane at the same mark.
4. 4. On a flat, large table set strictly horizontally, a strong frame frame for the floor of the future cage is assembled (from timber with a cross-section of at least 50x50 mm).
5. 5. A mesh for the floor is attached to the frame or boards are filled in the case of solid floors for the queen cell.
6. 6. The frame frames of the side and rear walls are assembled one by one with the simultaneous strengthening of a metal mesh on them, the required number of doors to the aft and uterine compartments, and, if necessary, continuous cladding of the rear walls is performed.
7. 7. The roofing board is assembled from boards.
8. 8. Starting with the floor frame, all manufactured parts of the floor, walls and roof are assembled into a single structure, which is fixed on supports.

Cage frame

You should not nail or add anything to a cage already installed on supports unless necessary: ​​everything must be taken into account before installing the structure on supports. Otherwise, it will become unreliable and short-lived.

Using this plan, you can build homemade rabbit houses of any type from various materials.

Non-standard solutions and ideas for making cells

Rabbit breeding is considered a fast-paying and highly profitable business with skillful organization of a rabbit farm, even on a small plot and with insignificant start-up investments. A novice rabbit breeder can use new models and original ideas in technologies for arranging housing for animals, despite the fact that they solve only local problems.

Zolotukhin method

Professional rabbit breeders do not find anything particularly revolutionary in Zolotukhin’s method, but there are still original ideas. The main postulates of an experienced rabbit breeder, based on practice and long-term observation of animals:

• the floor should be solid, not mesh, and designed with a slope towards the drainage of feces, which will prevent pododermatitis in rabbits;
• only at the back wall there should be a small section of mesh floor;
• shifting the 2nd tier a short distance towards the feces drainage will ensure the normal sanitary condition of the lower row;
• the displacement of the 3rd tier relative to the second will ensure cleanliness in the second and so on.

Cell design according to Mikhailov

Academician Mikhailov’s method called “accelerated rabbit breeding” is aimed at creating the most comfortable and ideal conditions in terms of sanitation for raising rabbits. This goal is inherent in the design of the rabbit house, which is quite difficult to make on your own.

The use of the Mikhailov system gives good results. But the price of cells of this design is too high, and the payback period for investments is quite long.

Housing for rabbits according to Mikhailov

The cheapest options

These include structures that are quickly manufactured and durable, made entirely of metal mesh. But keeping animals outdoors in mesh houses in the fresh air is impossible in the Russian climate. Therefore, when using such cages, a room is required, and this may not be affordable for the rabbit breeder.

It is quite difficult to create conditions for raising these animals that are identical to their natural habitat. But developments in this direction are already underway.

Those who decide to start breeding rabbits always have the question of making a comfortable cage for rodents. Housing for long-eared animals can be designed in different ways, and can be made either in a factory or with your own hands. Let's focus on the last option.

What materials can it be made from?

When planning the construction of rabbit hutches, the first thing to think about is the choice of suitable building materials. In principle, any available means are suitable for constructing a simple structure that can protect animals from unfavorable external factors.

In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.

Wood

Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage

Wood is used very widely in the construction of rabbit cages. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from wooden beams that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Floors made of wooden planks are also popular among rabbit breeders.

The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can be easily given almost any shape. You should not lose sight of the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood: in winter a wooden rabbitry will be warm, and in summer it will not be too hot.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything around them, so wooden elements interior decoration the cells are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to install a solid wooden floor in a cage.

Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore all wooden structural elements must be treated with protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure it is safe for animals.

Metal

Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill

Metal is a more durable material for construction compared to wood. Rabbits cannot chew through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.

The frame of the future cage is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior of wooden cages to prevent the natural material from being chewed through. But it is not recommended to make the roof and outer walls of the cage out of metal, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which can pose a threat to the health of long-eared residents.

Galvanized profile

Galvanized profiles are used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.

Plastic elements

Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat

Plastic pipes can be an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cages for use in any conditions.

When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal structural elements that can get in the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure its mouth or esophagus from fragments, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances included in the material.

Important! When exposed to extreme heat (for example, in the heat), some types of plastic release toxic substances.

Bricks and clay

Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit hutches mainly in hot regions. The bases for the houses are laid with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Net

The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of slats, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be a mesh, which should have medium or small cells and be strong enough.

Slate

The most practical material for making a roof for a rabbit hutch is slate. It will perfectly perform its protective function, without overheating in the sun and without being afraid of moisture.

Available materials

Rabbits are not the easiest animals to care for. For temporary housing or in conditions of critical savings, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers to contain rodents, or assemble multi-story structures from industrial pallets.

Each material has special properties that can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. You should be guided in your choice based on the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings if you plan to use them.

Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage

There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of “conveniences” in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet it is easy to find original drawings like Zolotukhin’s or Mikhailov’s designs.

If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then optimal parameters the dimensions will be:

• Length - 120–150 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 60 cm.

In order to rationally consume material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.

There is no need to save space and make smaller cells. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.

In appearance, a typical cell resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult individual. Most often in construction, wood and plywood are used for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, and slate for roofing.

The floor of the cage is rarely made solid. Usually it is assembled from narrow slats or a mesh is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which falls through a mesh or slatted floor into a specially installed tray. If flooring make it continuous, you will have to clean it too often.

To make a standard cell you will need the following materials:

• Wooden beams - 10 pieces, size 300x3x5 cm;
• Sheets of plywood - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
• Metal mesh - 3 m with a cell size no larger than 15 mm;
• Self-tapping screws - approximately 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
• Fittings - door hinges and latches;
• Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.

Tools for work:

• Hand saw or grinder;
• Metal scissors or wire cutters;
• A screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of screws);
• Tape measure, pencil, level.

Drawing

Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits

The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.

Manufacturing instructions

1. Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from wooden beams, which are sawn according to size and fastened with screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
2. The floor of the future cage is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. The closed nesting compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying down plywood.
3. The back and side walls of the cage and the feeder are also made from plywood.
4. Having made the doors using metal mesh and leftover wood, you should secure them with fittings.
5. At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.

Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

In addition to the covered part, a cage for decorative rabbits must have an open part.

The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit, the better. Animal comfort is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or enclosures for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors for the design of the home are much lower.

The flooring in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. The ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).

Required tools and materials

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves using the following materials:

• Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take extra, focusing on the size of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
• Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
• Wooden slats;
• Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
• Self-tapping screws or nails;
• Door fittings.

Tools for work:

• Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Screwdriver or hammer;
• Nippers or metal scissors;

Drawing

Drawing of a multi-tier cage for decorative rabbits

The dimensions in the drawing are indicated in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult individual in a heated room.

Manufacturing instructions

1. The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. A base measuring 90x60 cm is cut out of chipboard or a wooden board.
2. A metal shield of similar dimensions is placed on a wooden base.
3. Then, boards for walls measuring 45x60 cm are prepared from wood or chipboard.
4. The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
5. The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. The optimal size for the door is 30x30 cm.
6. The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
7. The staircase is made of slats, maintaining a width of at least 15 cm, and is installed close to the second tier, carefully securing it.

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design can cope with the task. It is not worth painting the surfaces of the cage with paints and varnishes, since rodents can be poisoned by toxic substances by gnawing on structural elements.

Video: do-it-yourself two-story rabbit cage

Design Features

All rabbit cages are designed based on general principles, however, different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm simultaneously contains several groups of rabbits of different ages or even breeds.

Depending on whether the rabbit hutch will be located outdoors or indoors, you should select suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.

Rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults) require special housing conditions, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.

The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf rabbits will be very different from each other.

Depending on the size of the rabbits

The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of future residents

Optimal dimensions for a spacious cage containing a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:

• Length - 120–170 cm;
• Width - 60–80 cm;
• Height - 50–60 cm.

Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will need more modest conditions:

• Length - 70–90 cm;
• Width - 35–55 cm;
• Height - 30–50 cm.

Giant rabbits will need much more space:

• Length - 85–100 cm;
• Width - 70–80 cm;
• Height - 60–80 cm.

Multi-tiered cells

Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous maintenance large quantity rodents of different sexes and ages. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Cages with several levels for rabbits are capital structures, which, however, are quite easy to build yourself.

Multi-tier cages based on Zolotukhin’s drawings are popular among rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:

• Capacity;
• The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
• It is convenient to care for animals;
• Zolotukhin cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.

Depending on the purpose

If there is a female rabbit with her young rabbits living in a cage, then they definitely need to have a secluded place.

Depending on their purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:

• Standard cage for permanent keeping. It’s easy to find a drawing of such a cage on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. You should pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of the materials;
• The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
• A special type of house for a female rabbit with her young or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the queen cell has solid walls, a kind of house that imitates a cramped hole and devices for feeding the mother;
• The cage for young animals meets standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional enclosure for walking. The opportunity to stretch a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides the animals with access to fresh grass.

Depending on the climate and time of year

The optimal ambient temperature for rabbits to feel normal is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from precipitation and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.

In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer involves various types cells. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber; sometimes they are heated with water.

In regions with a temperate climate without sudden temperature changes, it is possible to keep rabbits year-round in the same portable structures, which are moved indoors when the first cold weather sets in. In the summer, such cells are again moved to the open air.

Choosing a location for installation

Rabbit hutches can be placed both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with warm climates or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.

Rabbits do not tolerate high humidity well, so in the open air a place should be chosen that is remote from bodies of water, preferably on a hill. Direct sunlight can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.

When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for the animals and give them more warmth. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially with regard to young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn-winter period it will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional illumination and heating of the cells.

Do not forget about general hygiene in premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be removed promptly. At least once a year it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent the proliferation of bacteria and viruses.

Arrangement

Feeder options for rabbit hutches

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for permanent keeping of rabbits provides a supply of fresh water and food. Now you can purchase ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized websites. However, you can make simple feeders and drinkers yourself.

Some rabbit hutch plans include built-in structures, while some require feeding facilities to be installed separately.

The floor covering for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the animal from developing pododermatitis. Best options Sawdust or absorbent textile diapers are considered.

How to crate train a rabbit

If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will get used to it quickly enough

In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. When keeping animals productively, providing them with adequate privacy is very difficult. If a rabbit hutch is not constructed correctly, has sharp interior edges, is small in space, or is located in a noisy environment, the animals will experience stress that will adversely affect their health and reproductive performance.

Accustoming a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide it with the most comfortable living conditions.

Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business in rural areas. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and advice from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for his rabbits.

Raising rabbits is a profitable and uncomplicated activity. These animals do not require special care and exceptional conditions of detention, so 2-3 eared fluffies can be placed on summer cottage or even in an apartment.

Many novice farmers are involved in breeding rabbits. And the first thing you should purchase for a rabbit farm is cages.

Rabbits are animals that do not require special conditions content. That’s why you don’t have to buy houses for them: you can make them yourself.

Advantages of handmade houses:

• during construction, all the features of the premises, its location and conditions of maintenance are taken into account;
• the costs of setting up a rabbit farm are significantly reduced;
• self-production cells will help avoid defects, which are often allowed at the factory.

An example of a homemade house in the photo.

Advantages of factory cages:

• ideal design, which provides optimal conditions for the life of animals;
• the structure is equipped with nests, drinking bowls, feeders, trays;
• Factory products are constantly being improved, their designs are becoming more complex: by purchasing a ready-made cage, a farmer can be sure that he will become the owner of modern equipment.

Factory houses are shown in the photo.

Advice! Buying ready-made cages will cost a considerable amount, while making rabbit housing yourself is a very budget-friendly undertaking.

Cell types

If you are seriously going to start breeding rabbits, then you will have to build several premises:

• for fattening rabbits;
• for keeping female rabbits with cubs;
• for males.

To provide housing for rabbits, you need to build an entire “residential complex”. It can be installed both outdoors and in a barn: it all depends on the natural conditions of a particular region. You can develop drawings for creating cells yourself or find ready-made ones in specialized magazines and on the Internet.

Cages for males

Males are housed in separate houses. This avoids fights, competition for food, as well as unplanned mating (if males and females are kept in the same room). The size of the house should be such that the rabbit can move freely inside it. If the males are cramped, they will become lazy and obese. And this can affect reproductive function: rabbits will stop producing offspring.

Houses for rabbits with rabbits should be spacious enough. They are located in one tier and consist of two compartments: the main and uterine. To prevent the babies from freezing in winter, the uterine compartment must be thoroughly insulated.

Rabbits at the age of 2–3 months are placed in such houses if they were unable to gain required weight while living with the mother. To give the female the opportunity to give birth to new rabbits, the grown-up babies are placed in a separate room and fattened to the desired weight.

Types of cells

Now there are a lot of modifications, but the most popular design for keeping rabbits is still a two-section cage.

You can make a house for adult animals with your own hands. It will take several hours to create a home, but you can be sure that the room meets all the requirements for keeping furry pets.

The finished cage for adult animals is shown in the photo.

Stages of work:

1. Make a house frame from 4 wooden beams. It should be rectangular; its dimensions are equal to the length and width of the future product.
2. Place the house on its legs. To do this, take 4 beams: 2 of them should have a length equal to the height of the front wall + 30 cm, and another 2 – the height of the back wall + 30 cm. The frame of the front wall is formed by long beams, the back - by shorter ones (a difference of 10–15 is enough cm). Screw them to the rectangular base so that it rises 30 cm above the floor. These will be the legs.
3. Attach galvanized mesh to the rectangular floor base so that it covers the middle part of the room. Leave a space of 35–40 cm long on each side for nesting compartments. Cover the floor in the nests with plywood suitable size so that it slightly grabs the mesh.
4. Install the side and back walls of plywood and complete the frame of the house. To do this, secure 1 long beam at the very top between the front side beams.
5. Separate the nesting compartments from the rest of the room with slats. Between these slats and the back wall, install dividers: plywood sheets with holes cut in them. The holes are needed to allow rabbits to move freely between the nesting and feeding compartments. Attach a roof to each nest.
6. Divide the room into 2 sections with a cross beam. Make feeders out of plywood and screw them on opposite sides of the dividing strip.
7. To ensure that the bottom holds well, turn the structure over and secure the mesh with nails and slats.
8. Make a bunker for feeders from 4 sheets of plywood, which should be slightly smaller in height than the house. The hopper should look like a "V" and expand towards the top. Attach it between the feeders so that after pouring the food from this funnel can be easily fed into the feeders.
9. Closer to the back wall, make a manger for rougher food: hay and grass. Their width should be 30 cm. To make it convenient for rabbits to pull out blades of grass from there, make walls of wire rods on both sides.
10. Attach a roof to the cage. It should protrude slightly above the cage. In the middle, where the feeders are located, build a slider door that you can pull out to add food. For convenience, attach a wooden or metal handle to it.
11. Attach doors made from slats to the front wall. Stretch the mesh between the slats. The nesting compartments can be left without external holes, or they can have solid wooden doors.

Drawings for making such cells are easy to find.

Houses for three-month-old rabbits

For up to three months, rabbits are kept in groups of 6–8 individuals, so group housing is used to keep them. They are made in the same way as double houses. The only difference is that for large number Rabbits require a different feeding system: they simply cannot eat all together from a small feeder.

Stages of work:

1. The frame of the house is made in the same way as the frame of double cages for adult animals. However, there is no need to divide the room into two sections. The cage will consist of nesting and feeding compartments. In this case, the nesting compartment should be 1.5 times smaller than the aft compartment.
2. Cover the floor of the nesting compartment with wood planks and separate it from the feeding compartment with a plywood wall with a hole for the movement of animals. The outer wall of the nest should be made of plywood.
3. The floor and front part of the aft compartment are made of mesh. In the front part you need to attach a door made of slats.
4. Place a feeder along the entire length of the feed compartment. It should be positioned in such a way that part of it is in the cage, and part is outside (for the convenience of laying hay). It is made of mesh so that it is convenient for animals to pull out the grass. It is better to raise the feeder 3-4 cm above the floor so that the food is not contaminated with waste from the baby rabbits.

Advice! Up to 12 animals can be kept in such a cage at the same time.

There are ready-made drawings for making such cells.

Two-tier (three-tier) shed

Two-tier and three-tier structures are made according to the same scheme as two-section houses for adult rabbits. But in this case, several cells are located above each other in tiers.

Stages of making a two-tier shed:

1. Make 3 rectangular frames. They will become the floor and roof of future cells.
2. Secure them onto long beams. Connect the first rectangle to the beams so that legs 30 cm high remain below. Fix the next rectangle at a height of 50 cm above the previous one, the third at a height of 10 cm above the second.
3. Attach a galvanized mesh to the first and third rectangles, which will serve as the floor for the aft compartment. Equip both houses in the same way as a regular two-section cell.
4. The second rectangle will serve as both a roof for the lower house and a pallet for the upper one. Between the second and third rectangles you need to install a removable box into which waste from the upper house will be poured through the mesh.

In this way, you can make not only a two-tier, but also a three-tier shed. If you make several of these structures, you will have a real rabbit farm.

What a multi-tiered structure for keeping rabbits might look like can be seen in the photo.

House for a rabbit with a nest

To make a house for a rabbit with a nest with your own hands, you need to take into account some of the features of this structure. The house for the rabbit is built separately from other buildings. It would be good if it was portable so that animals could be moved from the street to the barn.

Stages of work:

1. Put together a frame for the house, make the back wall and sides from plywood. This structure should have two compartments: the main and the uterine.
2. For each of them, make a separate door: to the compartment for the rabbit - from a mesh, to the queen cell - from plywood or thin boards.
3. To prevent the baby rabbits from freezing, insulate the queen cell. It is advisable to make it a double floor, walls and roof, in the space between which you need to lay insulation: polystyrene foam, straw or any other material. If winters are very cold, then a “warm floor” system is suitable: a heating pad is placed between two floor levels. The wire from the unit is routed outside so that the animals do not gnaw it.
4. The roof is covered with water-repellent material.

The photo shows what a house for a rabbit with a baby should look like.

Do you need a house with a walk?

If the owner of a rabbit farm has a large green area at his disposal, then houses with a walk in this case are an excellent option. They look the same as regular rabbit houses, only on the back wall they have a door through which the rabbits are let out for a walk.

You can make a walking area with your own hands. Behind the cage you need to equip a large enclosure. Its frame is made of wooden slats, and the walls are covered with a dense mesh. It is better to place the enclosure on the sunny side: rabbits spend most of their lives in dark cages, and they simply need the sun.

Advice! If your farm is safe enough for rabbits to graze on grass, then run houses can be made without legs. Then the animals will be able to eat pasture. And when the grass in the enclosure runs out, the rabbit’s home can simply be moved to another place. If on a farm there is a possibility that mice, cats or martens will get into the enclosure, then the enclosure will be equipped on stilts.

What is the advantage of cages with walking? The thing is, rabbits need space to run around. If they have the opportunity to be in the fresh air and periodically stretch their paws, they will get sick less, gain weight faster and reproduce more actively. In addition, the fur of such animals will be much fluffier and shiny than that of their sedentary relatives.

A house with a walk can be like in the photo.

Place for a house

The choice of location for the house depends on the climatic conditions of the region. If winter frosts are very rare in your region, then rabbit houses can be safely placed outside. However, it is worth choosing a place where there are no drafts and excessive humidity: rabbits are susceptible to colds.

Advice! You can keep rabbits indoors, however ideal option– combined content: in summer, rabbit houses are displayed on fresh air, and in winter they go back to the barn or house.

If you are installing shad cages, it is advisable to arrange them in two rows and turn the facades towards each other. An adult must pass freely between the rows.

Rabbits do not like intense lighting, but if the houses are located in a barn, then the room should be equipped with several lamps. They should illuminate the rabbit's home for 8-10 hours a day.

Materials

To make cells with your own hands, it is recommended to use the following materials:

• wood (beams, slats, plywood);
• galvanized mesh with a small mesh size (it depends on the size of the rabbits);
• plastic for finishing work;
• slate or tiles for the roof if the cage will be located outside.

Advice! All wooden parts of the product must be well sanded, and the edges of the galvanized mesh must be tightly nailed to the surface. Rabbits are delicate creatures that can easily be injured by poorly processed parts of their home.

It is not recommended to use metal for arranging rabbit cages. Under the rays of the sun, this material heats up greatly, and in the cold season it freezes. In such a home, rabbits will feel uncomfortable, begin to get sick and stop breeding.

Tools

To make a rabbit house with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• hammer;
• roulette;
• wood hacksaw;
• plane;
• scissors for cutting mesh;
• pliers;
• nails, screws, self-tapping screws, corners;
• screwdriver and screwdriver;
• sandpaper.

Cage dimensions

The size of rabbit cages depends on the size of the animals. A single cage for a male rabbit should have a width of at least 0.6 m and a length of 0.8–1.1 m. If the rabbits are large, then the size of the section should be increased. One rabbit weighing more than 5 kg requires a room with a length of 1.3 to 1.5 m.

The size of the room for young animals depends on the number of rabbits. They can be placed in groups of 5–8, and with compact planting - 12 individuals per house. The width of the cells in this case should be 1 m, the height should be from 0.35 to 0.6 m, and the length should be 2–3 m.

In any case, one adult rabbit should not have less than 0.5–0.7 m2, and one cub should not have less than 0.15–0.2 m2.

After studying these simple recommendations, you can easily equip your rabbit farm. If you make houses for animals yourself, the enterprise will cost a small amount. And rabbits bring considerable income: after all, not only the tender meat of these animals is valued, but also their wool and manure.

Breeding and keeping pets involves a large degree of responsibility for the breeder and requires strict adherence to certain rules. One of the most important is the creation of acceptable living conditions for the animal. They should be close to natural.

Rabbits have a high degree of resistance to various diseases. They are unpretentious to food and living conditions, and reproduce easily. But despite all this, animals need a properly organized home.

The construction of a house for pets must be approached competently. This takes into account the number of animals, their sex composition and age.

What is needed for rabbit farming?

To practice at home, no special financial costs are required. It is necessary to have cages for animals, drinking bowls, and containers for food. All this is easy to do with your own hands.

Harvesting hay and branches can be done in the summer. Root vegetables and vegetables are easy to harvest from your own garden. The main expense item will be animal vaccination and the purchase of concentrated feed.

Each cage should house same-sex animals of approximately the same age, weight and character. It is recommended to place adult animals and females with rabbits in one- and two-section cages.

The sizes of rabbit cages have standard indicators:

• length - 100-120 cm;
• height - 50 cm;
• width - 70 cm.

For young rabbits, wooden cages covered with steel mesh are suitable. Their sizes correspond to the sizes of animals. For example, for 10 individuals, a cage with the same dimensions as indicated above will be acceptable, but its length should be 170 cm.

How to build a single-tier cage?

Many people are interested in how to make a rabbit cage with their own hands. Of course, if you have the right materials, this is not so difficult. The article presents drawings of rabbit cages. Recommendations on the choice of materials for work are also given.

For the outside of the cage system, the most popular are double, single-tier rabbit cages.

The length of such cells is 220-240 cm, and the width is 65 cm. The height of the wall at the front is 35 cm. The roof should have one slope, equipped with a canopy protruding forward by 20 cm, and from the sides by 10 cm.

There are two compartments for food in the cage. The floor is made of metal mesh. The cell size should be 18x18 mm or 16x48 mm. The width of the mesh should be 2 cm, and the gap between them is 1.5-1.8 cm.

DIY rabbit cages with correct design must have a partition with a hole, the width of which is 17 cm and the height - 20 cm. It should be located between the nesting box and the feed compartment in order to prevent the young rabbits from entering the nest compartment into the feed compartment. The manhole is constructed at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor.

On the front side of the cage, two doors made of mesh are hung, which lead to the feeding compartment, as well as two solid doors made of boards, leading to the nesting compartment. Feeders with a removable structure and drinking bowls must be hung on the doors leading to the food.

For feeding with roughage, a nursery is installed between the compartments. They are based on two wooden frames on which a mesh is stretched. The size of the mesh cells should be 20x50 mm. The lower ends of the frames are aligned, and the upper ends are moved apart to the sides of the feed compartment. The result is a V-shaped crib for roughage.

What materials will be needed?

To build a single-tier cage for two individuals, the performer will need:

• Plywood with an area of ​​2 m2.
• Metal mesh with cell size 18x18 mm or welded mesh 16x48 mm (1.3 m2).
• Mesh with cells 35x35 cm or 24x48 cm (0.6 m2).

Making bunk cages

The cost of constructing a two-tier animal cage is not that high. This is due to the fact that the design is simple. In addition, the cash costs will pay off in the first months of use.

What materials will be needed?

To make a cage with two tiers you will need:

• Two wood fiber sheets.
• Bars measuring 60x100 mm (4 pcs.).
• Picket fence strips (50 pcs.).
• Ruberoid measuring 4x2 m for the construction of a pallet.
• Nails.
• Dye.

What equipment will be needed?

• Two deep bowls covered with enamel (their diameter should be 220 mm).
• Manure collection tank (approximately 300 mm high).
• Pair VPI-03 (also used for household purposes, immersed in water).
• Step-down transformers 220x127 V (4 pcs. per 8 cells).
• Five-liter polyethylene canisters (4 pcs.).

Cage design

Rabbit hutches should be positioned according to how the light will fall. The blank closed wall where the crates and feeders are located should face north. This protects animals from winds and cold.

The roof is constructed so that it overhangs 90 cm from the north, and 60 cm from the south. From the west and east, the roof should be level with the protruding beams.

Two-tier rabbit hutches contain a frame stand, a lower and an upper tier. You can also build a roof from the roof. As a rule, transparent or translucent material is used. You can also use roofing material.

The tier on top is a nursery, that is, it will serve as a place for raising rabbits after finishing feeding on mother's milk. This room is made of different cells. One of them must be larger than the frame.

The depositor is divided into two parts by means of a feeder for mixed feed, which has outlets on both sides. A common canister drinking bowl is also installed here. Each compartment should be equipped with a folding feeder for mixed feed and a nursery for fresh and dry grass. They look like an opening door. There is a door attached to the drinker.

The floor of the tier is horizontal. Its basis can be made of wooden slats, which are located at an angle of 45º so that small rabbits cannot injure their paws. All walls and doors of the cage are made of lattice. The exception is the north side.

Below is the uterine tier. It consists of two compartments: nesting and walking. It may also include the same components that are present in the upper tier.

The nest compartment has a removable floor. It is located below the rest of the tiered area. The queen cell will be placed in this compartment. Before the rabbit brings the babies, she will instinctively sneak into it herself.

The rest of the nest should be stationary. It is equipped with a wall with a hole that is closed with a valve. It is better to equip the door to the nest with hinges from below, so that when open it serves as a platform for the animal.

The walking compartment is equipped with a floor made of slats located perpendicularly. This ensures structural rigidity. In the walking area there is a canister drinker, a folding feeder and a bunker feeder for mixed feed. Nursery on the stand at the back of the paddock. A door must also be installed for the automatic drinker.

A window is constructed in the floor of the walking compartment at the end of the conical shaft, which is attached under the floor of the upper tier. The pitched shaft communicates with a bunker equipped with a removable door and a container for manure. Thus, rabbit cages will be cleaned due to special doors, which will also make feed containers accessible. The containers themselves are located under the inclined nets of the feeders.

At the bottom of the cage frame there is a compartment for electrical equipment. At the same time, this place serves as a nursery for rabbits. It must be locked. For convenient loading of the feeders, you need to build it folding outward.

The design of the feeder for mixed feed has a body with windows for rabbits, as well as a tray. It is constructed from a mesh with small cells.

All folding components must be equipped with handles, hinges and latches, as well as, if necessary, mortise locks.

The side and front walls are tightened with a fine mesh, the working side can be covered with a mesh with large cells.

Mini-farm from two-tier cages

To build a small farm based on two-tier cells, you do not need a lot of space. One cell occupies 1.4 m2. If you build a farm of two rows and use eight cells with an opening between them of 70 cm (measured along the legs) and a passage of 110 cm, then the area of ​​the farm will be equal to 25 m2.

Each cage houses up to 25 rabbits at a time. In the lower part there will be a female rabbit with a new offspring, and in the upper part - the previous offspring.

Double-tier cages have been used on experimental farms for a number of years and have proven to be highly cost-effective and profitable. So their use is recommended for all farmers.

Making a family unit - cages of three sections

Making rabbit cages of this design with your own hands is a more difficult task. But such family blocks are very convenient for breeding animals. The central part is inhabited by a male, and on the sides there are female rabbits.

The wooden partitions between the cell compartments are equipped with manholes with plywood latches. They are designed to easily attach females to males and return them back to their compartment.

What materials are a cell made of?

The basis of the frame can be bars. The walls on the sides, the compartment for the nest with doors and partitions are constructed from clapboard.

A metal mesh is used for the front wall. The nesting compartments have an attic part - this is a free space between the ceiling and the common roof, where female rabbits can rest.

An additional convenience is that the location of the feeders and drinkers is designed in such a way that they are not subject to contamination and can be filled from the outside.

Cages for rabbits designed by breeder N. I. Zolotukhin

The famous rabbit breeder N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding these cute animals for several decades. Such a wealth of experience helped him design a new cage for rabbits.

Features of breeder cages

• The floor in them is solid. Its base is slate or boards.
• There are no pallets in the cages.
• A narrow strip of mesh flooring is located only along the rear walls of the structure.
• The rear walls are installed at an angle so that rabbit waste from the tiers located above does not fall on the rabbits located in the lower tiers.
• There are no special queen cells. The female rabbit builds her own nest before giving birth.
• Grain feeders are attached to the doors and are turned outward for filling.

A diagram of the rabbitry is presented below.

How to make cages for dwarf rabbits with your own hands?

If you want to have houses, their cages are constructed in a different way. There are many different models available in pet stores. But you don't have to buy them. You can make a cage for your pet yourself, and it won’t take much time.

The structure consists of two walls on the sides, the size of which is 70x70 cm. The rear wall is attached in such a way that there is a gap under the cage. The height of the back wall is 55 cm, length - 100 cm.

Meter-long slats are nailed to the bottom of the cage. A metal mesh is fixed on top of them.

The cage lid is made of mesh with hinges. It is equipped with a handle. A tray is installed under the cage.

How to choose a grid?

When making rabbit hutches, of course, you will need a mesh. In order for the manufacturer to better understand which mesh choice will be optimal, we recommend using a number of tips.

Many people wonder: is galvanized mesh, steel or aluminum material suitable? It is better to opt for a steel structure, as it is durable.

To make a cage made of wood with mesh doors and a floor, you should choose the mesh carefully so that it does not injure the animals' paws. Experienced breeders advise using it with small cells. The material used is metal. The mesh thickness is 2 mm, and the cell size is 16x48 mm. A galvanized mesh is suitable for constructing the side walls of the cage.

Any type of mesh is used to construct the door. It does not have to be welded. Wicker can also be used.

During the warm season, animals can be kept in an enclosure fenced with a mesh. A wicker structure with a thickness of 1.2 mm is suitable for it.

Even in our global and technocratic society, where everything can be purchased in a store, subsistence farming remains relevant to this day. The most profitable and low-cost way livestock farming is the breeding of rabbits. But like any living creature, the rabbit should have its own comfortable corner of residence. These animals are kept in special cages located in the barn. Every novice rabbit breeder should know how to make a rabbit cage.

Such a process will not seem laborious if all the conditions for rabbit breeding premises are met. One of the main requirements is compliance with the scale of such buildings. Therefore, you first need to determine the size of the cages for rabbits. Even with a small number of animals, one cage for all will not be enough. You need to plan at least three pieces. First you need to prepare drawings of cages for rabbits.

Required space for 1 head

A detailed drawing showing even the smallest design details will ensure you have a reliable construction.

There are many known design methods for how to build a rabbitry. Some provide comfort to animals, others are convenient for the owner due to financial costs. Each rabbit breeder chooses himself best option, based on your capabilities. But, nevertheless, more often they make cages for rabbits with their own hands. According to reviews, simple rabbit mesh cages are popular. Such material can be found in any construction supermarket, or you can rummage through your old supplies. Let's look at the process of creating a cage for rabbits from a mesh with your own hands.

Mesh rabbitry

There are many varieties of such cages; the following structures have proven themselves best:

• a cage without a supporting structure with supporting supports;
• frame cells.

Homemade galvanized checkered weaving with strong wire will serve for the production of such structures. For the tops and side sections of the cells, a mesh with links of 25x50 mm will be sufficient. The lower part involves the use of small cells to prevent the paws of furry animals from slipping. Once you have determined the dimensions, construction can begin.

In our case, the cage will be an externally mesh structure surrounded by a base with legs.

Step-by-step production

The construction of such a structure consists of several stages. Before you make a rabbit cage with your own hands, you need to cut out certain parts of the sides based on the size.

A template made in advance will help create the front and back parts of the same size, which are carefully cut out from the mesh roll fabric. Then the side parts are cut, completely matching their perimeter.

1. The constructed rectangle is covered with a roof, and a fine-mesh mesh will serve as the base of the floor.
2. Initially, fastening elements form the walls.
3. Next, the base of the cage is installed. At the same time, the mesh weaves of the front part of the very first cell are removed. A tray for animal waste will be located here.
4. Having outlined the doorway, we form a slot. There may be several of them.
5. The doors are also made using mesh and secured with fasteners.
6. A mesh ceiling is laid on top of the resulting box.
7. The frame is made separately using wooden blocks. If the drawings with dimensions are drawn out accurately and exceed the cage itself, our structure will easily fit into its supporting base.

Step-by-step photo instructions

The main work is done, now you need to attach the finished structures to the wall with metal parts and install limiters - to prevent the cage from swaying when the animals move. The sides and back are covered with plywood sheets, which are cut relative to the dimensions of the frame, and not the size of the mesh formations. Now all that remains is to fill the holding area with the accessories necessary for the life of rabbits: feeders, drinking bowls, a tray, and you can populate the rabbitry with animals. This is the most common way to build a rabbit cage using the mesh method.

Mikhailova's rabbitry

The production of cages for rabbits must be thoughtful and serve as a guarantee that the animals will actively develop and gain weight. A popular scheme for such development belongs to I. N. Mikhailov, a famous rabbit breeder. Mikhailov's rabbit cages have accessible and understandable instructions for the stages of construction yourself at home.

Mikhailov's cage is manufactured according to already developed drawing projects.

The essence of his technique is to divide the cell into three parts: top, bottom and support section, each of which has its own functional affiliation. So, the upper part has one or two tiers, the lower base contains a tray for collecting feces, as well as a compartment where they are stored and stored until removal. The stand frame also serves as a fixing base. And the compartments of the Mikhailov cage for rabbits, intended for drinking and food, move out slightly.

Thanks to this layout of housing, Mikhailov’s rabbitry requires minimal care - about an hour a week, and the animals are kept outside all year round.

The housings are mainly made of metal, and wood is used for insulation. There are simplified versions of similar premises for rabbits, differing in appearance, therefore, let us highlight the main features of the cell size ratio according to the Mikhailovsky method:

• the total area of ​​one section accommodating a pair of animals ranges from 1.4 square meters. m.;
• the height of the cage is 2.1 m, width 2.4 m;
• each section of the cage is constructed with a width of 0.6 m and a height of 0.7 m;
• The queen cells are 0.4 m long and 0.35 m wide; the cone for collecting waste products can have any size.

The base in the form of legs on a frame stand reaches a height of 1.4 m. Needs to be fixed load-bearing structure fixing elements. This ensures the necessary stability of even the most simplified design.

Rabbit farm Zolotukhina

One of the most popular cages today are cages for rabbits by N. I. Zolotukhin, a man who put forward a number of necessary transformations that bring the conditions for keeping animals at home closer to natural features their life activities. This is how Zolotukhin’s cell, economical and quite simple to create, appeared.

This design saves space and does not require daily cleaning, making it easier for rabbit breeders to maintain.

Let us highlight the main features of N. Zolotukhin’s design option:

1. The floor is made using flat slate or a sheet of plywood. The mesh is attached only to the floor of the rear covering. There is no tray provided at all. The developer states that rabbits almost always urinate from the back of the cage. Gathers there most feces. The rest of the feces are scattered by the rabbits on the floor.
2. The building has a complex structure, including six compartments located on floors. Each higher floor is shifted relative to the floor next to it, equal to the width of the grid in the floor. And the front side, connecting the floors, represents a kind of slope.
3. The queen cell is completely absent. In cold weather, there is additionally a special shelter for the mother rabbit and baby rabbits.

Cleaning is carried out using a goose fan as a sweeping device.

Cage for rabbits in 2 tiers

The use of multi-storey structures for rabbits at home is still the most compact and convenient option for raising rabbits. There is nothing easier than building rabbit cages with your own hands in 2 tiers.

Assembly diagram

Experienced owners have developed special instructions, the manual of which contains the following provisions:

• wooden blocks are connected to form four rectangular bases;
• using a mesh with small cells, they make the floor, then install the side walls;
• since the first floor contains trays for feces, the floor is made pitched for ease of removal;
• Trays for domestic rabbits are prepared using timber. The second floor must have a strong plywood sheet under its base to prevent contamination from reaching the first floor;
• the ceiling is made at the last moment using waterproof materials.

To support two floors, a reliable frame is designed. To correctly carry out this design of a cage for rabbits, the drawings must always be kept at hand. Two-tier cages for rabbits have a structure layout in the shape of the letter “U”, represented by standard blocks attached to each other with self-tapping screws.

With these simple techniques you can make cages for rabbits with your own hands, which in terms of reliability and comfort will not be inferior to factory designs.