Installation of a bar counter. Bar counter gloss chrome How to attach a bar counter

Western furniture in the form of a high table and elegant chairs still does not go out of fashion, increasingly surprising with new configurations and designs. Bar counter accessories are essential devices that provide additional storage space. kitchen utensils, food and drinks. Modern manufacturers offer many options for different designs to suit every taste and budget. When choosing accessories for the bar counter in the kitchen, you should remember their original purpose and purchase only what is really useful in the household.

Bar counter equipment: pros and cons

The bar counter performs a series important functions: zones the space, is used as a dining table or simply serves as an interior decoration. It can be single-level or multi-tiered, with or without shelves. The most important factor is that it fits harmoniously into the overall interior and does not clutter up the space. A round bar counter is suitable for spacious rooms, and a rectangular compact one will look good in a small kitchen.

The presence of accessories and equipment has its advantages and disadvantages. One of the advantages of accessories is the rational use of space, especially when installing a multi-level structure. It is possible to organize the work and dining areas so that every item is in its place and everything you need is at hand. Finally, kitchen bar counters with stylish accessories and lighting delight guests, becoming the highlight of the interior.

However, if you overload the structure with shelves and accessories, especially in a small-sized kitchen, the room will visually shrink, become cramped and bulky. In addition, the bar counter will have to be cleaned much more often from dust and dirt that accumulates on appliances, glasses and roof rails.

Types of accessories

Fittings for a bar counter are classified according to the type of fastening and purpose. All accessories are usually made of metal, sometimes in combination with tempered glass. You can choose the most successful option that will match the color with other interior items: copper, gold, chrome, bronze, and also choose a matte or glossy finish.

Classification by fastening

• Bar shelves are of a central type, which can be round or cone-shaped. These include a fruit bowl, holders for glasses with special recesses for stems, niches for storing table partings, small items, seasonings, etc. They are attached to a pole running in the center of the shelves.

• Rotating (side) shelves for bar counters, with the help of fastening to a rail that extends to the side, have the ability to rotate around their axis. Such bar fittings will become indispensable if there is not enough space for table setting, because it can always be put aside. It includes: a round fruit bowl, a cone-shaped shelf for storing kitchen utensils, as well as a single or triple hanger on which you can hang the necessary cutlery.

• A hanging system for storing glasses, bottles and glasses, which is attached not to the bar counter, but to the ceiling. Thanks to this design, kitchens, photos of which can be viewed on the website, look especially stylish and modern.

Classification by purpose

• Bar shelves where you can store kitchen utensils.
• Hangers with hooks on which you can hang napkins, cups, ladles, etc.
• Designs for storing glasses and bottles.

A very original accessory are hanging baskets for the bar counter, if the end of the structure is adjacent to the wall. They can be multi-tiered and fastened with hooks similar to the railing on an apron.

Mounting methods

To install a multi-level system of shelves, you will need a bar pipe with a diameter of 5 cm. When choosing a material, give preference to brass or nickel - they are the most durable and easy to use. The rod is fixed using flanges to the ceiling and floor and using side fasteners to the wall. Rails are placed on the pipe for the bar counter, which allow you to adjust the height of the shelves. Such holders allow you to change the rack configuration by adding or removing new elements.

The bar pipe itself and everything that is attached to it using various holders

Choice of equipment

The components for the bar counter should be selected in accordance with its purpose and the volume of the room. If a piece of furniture is considered as a table for a snack, then it would be advisable not to overload it with accessories, but to build a small shelf or cabinet. In the absence of a bar, this option would also be appropriate, since the bar leg, like the solid structure with the table top, does not require central and rotating shelves.

For those who like to cook a lot, it is recommended to install hangers with hooks for storing kitchen utensils, which should always be at hand. You will also need a fruit bowl and a side shelf for small items. Owners who prefer to have fun with friends can get a hanging system for glasses and beer mugs. A similar design with lighting will look very impressive.

To ensure that the bar pipe does not remain empty, you should install rotating shelves that do not interfere with table setting and can easily be moved in the opposite direction. In addition, guests will not have to reach far for the necessary item.

And in conclusion, a short video with an overview of various universal shelves for the bar counter.

The bar counter is a piece of bar interior. Its purpose is to divide the space into two parts: for visitors and for the bartender. In a modern apartment, the presence of a bar counter allows you to save money and time for arranging the kitchen. Plus it looks stylish.

Many housewives want the kitchen to be their personal space, so separating the kitchen from the living room is a good idea.

Another way to save space in a small kitchen is to combine a bar counter with a dining table. This option is suitable for a small kitchen in a Khrushchev-type apartment.

History of origin

The bar (buffet) counter first appeared in America in the 18th century. According to one version, the buffet counter was intended to protect bartenders in bars and taverns. After all, visitors often started drunken fights and shootouts, in which the owners and bar workers suffered.

According to another version, the bar counter was invented by overseers who, after long rides on horses around the plantations (supervising the work of slaves), wanted to drink any way they wanted, but not while sitting. In addition, the rules of good manners suggested that during a conversation the interlocutors should see each other’s faces. Drinking while sitting or standing was considered rude. In Dixieland, the bar counter was island and two-tiered: so the slave bartender did not distract the masters from communication by making and pouring drinks. This type of bar counter is popular nowadays in luxury homes.

Modern models

In the 21st century, two-tier bar counters have undergone some changes. The lower tier of modern counters is located towards the kitchen. It serves as a cutting table at a comfortable height for the housewife.

But the most practical two-tier stands are the ones in which the lower tier is reduced and looks like a side table, right and center. This table can be used as a dining table or as a work table. For example, while the parent is cooking, the child is drawing at the table. During festive feasts, the bar table becomes a serving table: drinks and treats are placed on it.

Choosing a style

The bar counter is installed taking into account the interior of the room and based on the style of the kitchen unit in order to preserve its appearance and add a feeling of comfort. First, you need to evaluate the capabilities of the kitchen in order to decide which rack can be installed in this particular room.

Types of bar counters are divided into:

• Classic - consoles are installed at a height of just over a meter, and a table is already located on them. You can complement the design with high wooden chairs.
• Combined - the stand combines a work table and a dining table. The height of the counter should match the rest of the furniture.
• Two-level - an option for a small kitchen. The counter consists of two levels: the top is a counter, the bottom is a dining table.
• Central - the bar counter is located in the center of the kitchen. The advantage of such a counter is that on one side there is a hob and sink, and on the other there is a dining table.
• Mobile - the stand can combine a dining table and a work desk. In some cases, it can serve as an ironing board. If the lower tubular couplers are located 21 - 26 cm under the tabletop, then the bar counter can be removed if you need to save space.

It is worth noting that the bar counter is not a full-fledged dining table, but only an addition to the kitchen.

Materials

Some of the most common and affordable materials for making a bar counter with your own hands are:

1. Drywall. This material helps save money, but at the same time it can be used to make a rack of any shape. It can be issued in different ways: paint, tile or stone. If you wish, you can come up with your own design option.
2. Plastic. This material is inexpensive and easy to work with. The main disadvantage of plastic is fragility.
3. Chipboard. This material is more expensive than the previous ones and more difficult to work with. But it will last longer. Wood chip tiles are sold in different colors, so you don’t have to design the future counter yourself.
4. Natural wood is not a cheap material and only a professional can work with it. The stand made of natural wood looks solid and lasts a long time.
5. Brick or stone. These materials look good in rugged styles, but building a stand out of them is a huge challenge. The weight of these materials is so large that installing a stand made of them in an apartment is unsafe - the floor may not support it. Therefore, you can make a brick support for the bar counter in one brick.

You can build a bar counter entirely from brick or wood in country house or at the dacha.

Nuances

A handmade bar counter will decorate your interior. The main element of the rack is the tabletop. Therefore, it must have a durable and wear-resistant plate that is resistant to moisture.

In order to make your own countertop, you first need to choose the appropriate material. Next, the shape is cut out with a jigsaw. The edges of the tabletop must be cleaned and sealed with special tape. If you don’t want to do it yourself, you can purchase a ready-made countertop.

During manufacturing, you need to choose the lighting of the structure. You can install halogen light bulbs above the tabletop. An alternative option is a chandelier above the bar counter.

photos

Manufacturing instructions

Easiest to make

Before you start work, you need to purchase a tabletop, chrome pipe, and varnish.

• First, select the required drill attachment.
• Next, a hole is drilled for the chrome pipe. The length of the counter depends on the size of the kitchen.
• The chrome pipe is secured with pipe fasteners. Before this, the pipe must be threaded through the countertop.
• Using flanges, we mount the joint between the pipe and the countertop.
• The other side of the tabletop is secured to the wall with brackets.

Made of wood

To make such a stand, you need to purchase a table top, beams, plywood, moldings, baseboards, varnish and paint.

• First you need to make a base of beams. Their height should be from 105 to 110 mm. The length is selected based on the size of the kitchen.
• The frame is installed from two beams, which are located on top of each other. Next, the beams are installed vertically on the frame.
• The structure is secured with nails.
• Levelness is checked by level.
• The resulting structure is attached to the wall and to the floor. For this, nails and dowels are used.
• The structure is covered with veneer on both sides. Self-tapping screws are used for this. Veneer can be replaced with a sheet of plywood.
• Using nails, you need to secure the tabletop to 50 mm. The front side of the bar counter is a canopy from 25 to 30 mm. The tabletop and frame are attached at the same level, so that opposite side the frame was up to standard.
• Brackets are installed on the front side. This will make the tabletop more stable.
• Using wood glue, moldings are attached to the veneer.
• Skirting boards are used to decorate joints.
• The job is completed by painting the bar counter with varnish, paint or stain.

When the stand is completely dry, you can safely use it. Making a bar counter with your own hands is completed.

From plasterboard

Before work, you need to purchase drywall, a drywall float, paint, a metal profile, putty, brushes and a roller.

• First you need to determine the dimensions of the structure.
• By using metal profiles the frame is made. You can increase the strength of the frame using self-tapping screws.
• Two plasterboard walls are made. They need to be fixed to the wall and to the floor at a short distance.
• To strengthen the structure, a transverse profile must be installed between the walls.
• A profile is installed inside the perimeters, which is secured with a cutter.
• Using a level, check the evenness of the surfaces.
• Wiring is carried out in advance if the bar counter should be backlit.
• If the frame is stable enough, sheets of drywall are fixed. To do this, screwdrivers are screwed in close together for strength. Self-tapping screws should be placed deeper so that their heads do not protrude. This is necessary so that they can be painted over later.
• Use a special grater to smooth out uneven surfaces.
• Joints and holes are puttied.
• After making sure that the putty has dried, it is sanded with sandpaper and primed.
• At the end of the work, the bar counter is decorated with paint using a roller and brushes.
• If the structure does not fit tightly to the wall or floor, the seams are treated with sealant.

Brick

The brick structure is strong, but at the same time very heavy. Such a bar counter can be installed anywhere in the room, and it will divide the kitchen into two parts.

• First you need to purchase bricks and cement.
• The bricks are carefully laid on top of each other, which are bonded with cement mortar.
• If red brick is used in the manufacture of the stand, then it does not need to be plastered at the end of the work. It won't crumble. When using other types of bricks, you will have to apply plaster. But this will require a lot of time and effort.
• When the bar counter is ready, a tabletop is placed on top.

It must be remembered that brick is a heavy material and not any floor will withstand it. Therefore, you need to draw up drawings in advance and determine the weight of the future structure. To reduce the weight of the rack, you can use lighter materials, for example, plasterboard. Also, the weight of the stand will be much less if the tabletop is not made of natural stone, but of wood.

A classic bar counter is a narrow and rather high barrier table located in a drinking establishment. It's comfortable to lean on standing people or those who sit on special chairs. Thanks to their convenience and practicality, these designs quietly and gradually entered the everyday life of many people, often finding their place in kitchens.

Designers use large number various techniques and techniques to design bar counters for the kitchen. Not every home craftsman can make such designs with his own hands. However, inspired by the ideas of professionals and armed with instructions, you can create a simple and functional stand from wood, chipboard or other available material.

What are bar counters and what are they used for?

If there is enough space in the room, this structure will serve its intended purpose: people with drinks and snacks will be located near it. Many people note that a bar counter for the kitchen (made with your own hands according to a pre-prepared project) is indispensable for breakfasts and snacks with coffee.

The specificity of such racks is in their equipment: here you cannot do without holders for glasses, wine glasses and various glasses, shelves for juices, holders for bottles and other similar elements.

A classic bar counter for the kitchen (you can make it yourself only if you have special tools) has several options for supports:

• Wall.
• Side edge of kitchen furniture.
• Free-standing element (island).

Bar counters for small spaces

The width of the counter should not be less than 30 cm. This is due to common sense: if the tabletop is narrower, it will be difficult to place plates on it, and it will be problematic to lean on it.

It is believed that a width of 50-60 cm is optimal and comfortable. In this case, you get a really practical bar counter at home in the kitchen (assembled with your own hands or ordered from a salon).

For convenience, cabinets under the countertop can be equipped with lighting. It is usually installed using LED lamps or ribbons. This option is extremely economical: LEDs consume little energy, practically do not heat up and last a very long time.

Rack base options

The classic one is the base in the form of a metal pipe, which passes through the tabletop and rests with one edge on the floor and the other on the ceiling. Experts recommend choosing pipes from German or Polish manufacturers. Externally, Chinese bases may look exactly the same as more expensive ones, but very soon their coating will begin to peel off. A hole is made in the tabletop for the pipe and the future stand is threaded onto the support. On the bottom side, a stop attachment is installed, which is called a “fastening ring,” and on the front part, all this is masked with a decorative cover.

To fix the pipe on the floor and ceiling, use universal fasteners and a “thrust bearing”. Various shelves and holders are placed on the pipe before it is installed.

In the case when the bar counter is located along the wall, they are used to fix it. To make the structure really strong and reliable, they are placed quite close to each other.

How the stand is attached to the wall

The second side of the bar counter can rest on a table, cabinet, or be attached to the wall. In the latter case, the master will have to take care of purchasing reliable corners. They can be ordinary or reinforced (if the tabletop is made of natural wood or a high load on the surface is planned). The color can be selected based on the rest of the furniture or the wall covering. A bar counter for a small kitchen, made with your own hands, often rests on one corner, while wider and heavier models rest on several.

Bar counter above the tabletop

Sometimes the counter is placed above the kitchen work surface. For such fastening there are special beveled pipes. They are screwed to the tabletop and to the back of the counter, and the joints are masked with decorative rings.

This placement allows you to make the most productive use of the kitchen space, providing access to all its corners.

Drywall: to be or not to be?

In modern apartments, quite a lot of elements are made from plasterboard. Of course, this material cannot be compared to wood in terms of strength, but its advantage is that it is very convenient to work with.

Plasterboard slabs are mounted on pre-prepared frames. This method is indispensable if you need to build a false wall, a partition to separate one zone from another, build a cornice for lighting on the ceiling, equip a niche, and in a host of other cases.

Of course, drywall will also be useful for a craftsman who wants to create a bar counter on his own. He will need a base for the frame (metal corners, profile, wooden slats or beams), tools for working with these materials, fasteners, drywall itself, as well as putty, paint or other decorative means.

Assembling a plasterboard cabinet for a bar counter

Before you begin installing the cabinet, you should draw the future structure. This stage is necessary, otherwise you may encounter a shortage of material, violation of dimensions and proportions. Thanks to even the simplest sketch, the master will get a symmetrical and durable bar counter for the kitchen. Drawings can be developed using paper, pencil and ruler, or use a special 3D program.

When assembling the frame, the most important condition- maintaining vertical and horizontal planes. A good level and plumb line helps with this. The finished structure is covered with plasterboard, corners and marks from fasteners are puttied and decorated. Sometimes a primer is applied before the paint coat.

On last stage attach the selected tabletop.

Second life of wooden pallets

Today, many apartment owners are trying to equip their homes with furniture made from environmentally friendly and natural materials. Of course, not everyone can afford to buy a set of solid wood, but almost everyone likes the idea of ​​​​making a bar counter from recycled materials.

Craftsmen often accumulate various leftovers and trimmings of beams, unnecessary pallets and boxes. Imagination, ingenuity and patience will lead to the installation of an original and functional kitchen. How to do it? The ideas are not complicated: you just need to stuff the prepared beams and boards onto a durable frame.

Wooden rack options

Depending on the master’s project and his ability to work with wood, the bar counter can look like an elementary long barrier or become a modern and indispensable element of the kitchen.

In the first case, the main task is to create a strong frame. The same metal corners, wide beams and chipboard parts are suitable for this purpose. A tabletop (wood, chipboard, plastic) is placed on top of this structure.

In the case when the master wants to experiment with the drawings, he can equip the bar counter with a cabinet, drawers, shelves, additional fasteners and holders. By the way, LED backlight very appropriate on such products. She gives them charm and comfort.

If everything turned out well with the basic design, do not stop there. A homemade kitchen bar counter can be complemented with chairs and benches in the same style.

In addition, almost any piece of furniture can become a field for creativity: hanging shelves, chests of drawers, chests for things, stands for flower pots and much more.

Counters in taverns, taverns, taverns, buffets and bars appeared simultaneously with hot spots for public purposes. The reason is clear: for the sake of temptation, supplies had to be kept in sight, but also protected from the direct access of the thirsty and hungry. Nowadays, barriers of this kind are firmly established in everyday life, but if they drink at the counters in residential premises, it is not at all like in the saloons of the Wild West. The reason for the popularity of a bar counter in an apartment is often different: a do-it-yourself bar counter allows you to zone a living space no worse than a rack, cabinet, shelves or whatnot, but all of them are not functionally intended for eating. And unlike, say, a transforming table, a bar counter is able to reach the ceiling, remaining visually light and permeable. The home bar counter has changed accordingly, which is what this article is about.

Note: in fact, in canonical Russian, “bar counter” belongs to the category of expressions like “airplane wing” or “potted strawberry”. You need to pronounce and spell “bar counter” correctly, although “buffet counter” is perfectly legal. Well, let philologists sort this out, and we will write as the people speak. Although the “bar counter” sounds clumsy, of course.

What is its meaning

The situation that caused the massive appearance of bar counters in everyday life is as follows. Technology monolithic construction made it possible to offer open-plan apartments for sale - bare boxes with windows and front door. In the most inexpensive of them, there are initially no common areas, only sewer, water, heating and gas risers and the inlet panel in the electric meter. An open plan makes it possible to acquire living space in anticipation of adding to the family, without killing yourself with a mortgage right away. A a bar counter in an open-plan apartment will not only add style to it, but will also allow you to save money amount and/or labor disproportionately greater than required for its construction.

Laying communications throughout the apartment, erecting partitions and decorating rooms are not cheap. As a result, an open-plan apartment costs about the same as a turnkey one, but it allows, firstly, to spread out expenses over time, which is good. Secondly, if you tightly fence off only the bedroom, children's room, toilet and bathroom, and organize the rest of the living space according to the principle of a studio apartment, then the overall savings will be significant, up to 30% per square meter of living space. Don't believe me? A PHB partition with a length of only 4 m and a ceiling height of 2.7 m is almost 22 square meters. m of wall finishing and 2.7 cubic meters of masonry. Plus, at a minimum, an extra 4-6 sockets, 1-2 lamps and the required amount of electrical wiring with the corresponding complexity of the work.

The zoning of the kitchen “island” requires special care: the kitchen is both a common and private space when the hostess operates there. Making a bar counter is practically the only way to effectively, conveniently and beautifully separate the kitchen area from the living room (dining room). Including possibilities for ventilation so that kitchen fumes do not spread throughout the apartment.

Note: A bar counter for the kitchen, combined with a dining table, allows you, in addition, to give more space to other rooms or save on the total area. See, for example, in Fig. plan for arranging a kitchen measuring only 2.4x2.1 m with a bar counter. There are more kitchens in Khrushchev block buildings, but this one is more convenient.

How did she come to us

The history of the bar counter has come full circle: Its ancestor is the buffet counter of English castles, top left in Fig. A direct descendant overseas - a drinking counter in the living rooms of the plantation estates of Dixieland - the slave-holding states of the southern United States. The nickname “Dixiland” comes from the Latin dixi - “said”, this is how ancient Roman senators ended their speeches. Those. every word is weighed, nothing superfluous, and - adamant.

Southern gentlemen were not often polished at social events. Every day they ran around all day, lathered, astride lathered horses, because... Literally every little thing required constant close supervision. Negro slaves, naturally, had no interest in the results of their labor. An honest, smart, non-drinking and conscientious overseer? Sir, this is not funny.

After a day from dawn to dusk in the saddle in the heat, I wanted to take the first portion to relieve stress any way I could, just not while sitting. Therefore, firstly, the bar counter in Dixieland grew by 1.25 feet, from the English 3 to 4.25 feet, i.e. with approx. 900 to 1300 mm. The smaller size has become the canon for home bar counters, and the larger one for public ones.

Secondly, according to the rules of good manners, you need to drink while talking so that you can see the face of your interlocutor and so that he can see yours. Pumping up while sitting or standing in a row is a custom of the rude common people. Sitting next to each other over a drink while watching the fire in the fireplace is acceptable, but in the South it is already hot and stuffy. Therefore, the bar counter of Dixieland became an island and two-tiered, so that the slave bartender would not be an eyesore to the masters with his manipulations. In this form, the bar counter has taken root to this day in large luxury living rooms, at the top right in Fig.

In the saloons of the Wild West, the bar counter stretched as long as possible so that it could be transported to the place entirely on an oxcart. Prefabricated furniture already existed then, but what, and at the low labor prices of that time, would it have cost to send a skilled worker to a site where, instead of a sign, it was roughly painted: “50 (30, 70, 100) miles to next saloon” and where human life was valued no more expensive than a glass of whiskey or an occasional sideways glance?

Note: In a similar way in Rus', roadside taverns were marked - with a bunch of straw on a pole. Anyone who needs it will understand.

Due to the physical strength, rowdiness and pugnacity of the visitors, the bar counter for the saloon was also required to be strong, and it also had to be supplemented with a handrail and a foot made of pipes. There were no chairs at the saloon counter, and in general, a typical Wild West saloon was just a barn with a hitching post, where the only decent furniture and its face was the bar counter; bottom left in Fig. - a scan of an authentic photo of the interior of a saloon from the 1880s - 1890s, and what is shown in Westerns is shown in Westerns. It was in saloons that the bar first became the most significant piece of furniture and a symbol of prestige.

The second tier of the bar counter in the Wild West became stronger, higher, and the sides were shaped like a provision box, so that the wild goons who had been out on a spree would not spontaneously snatch up drinks that had not yet been paid for and covet the proceeds. And also, so that bartenders less often need to turn their backs on customers: people who controlled life-giving moisture and with a lot of money at hand had to be on alert no less than the sheriff. Therefore, bartenders in the Wild West usually worked in pairs. One turns away - the second covers. In war, as in war... Another addition was a canopy over the counter, protecting from debris from the plank ceiling: on the second floor of the saloon there was a hotel, which was usually a brothel. Not with scotch tape and bourbon alone... These innovations, all together or separately, have been preserved in home bars today, having changed their functions.

Note: Texas joke translated. Bar in Texas, piano. Above him is a sign: “Please do not shoot the pianist, he plays as best he can.” There is no one in front of the piano. A visitor asks: when will there be music? The bartender wipes his glass melancholy: “Yes, some illiterate guy passed here yesterday...”

Hey, you up there...

The 2-tier (two-level) bar counters that were relocated to modern housing underwent the greatest changes in functionality. Their lower tier now faces the kitchen area. More or less close to the prototype are the racks, in which it serves as a cutting table of normal height for this kind of furniture, on the left in Fig.

However, 2-tier bar counters with a reduced lower tier in the form of a side table, in the center and on the right, are more practical. Every day he is at lunch or even at work: his mother is at the stove, and the idiot is doing his homework under supervision. If he’s completely “slowed down” or rebelled, you can quietly reason with him with a piece of something tasty. By the time of evening gatherings, the side table is already a dispensing table - people wait in line on it (or return there when the need has passed) for snacks and drinks. From here it is already very difficult to knock them down to the floor, no matter what is going on up there in the drinking area.

Which one should I do?

To the professional bar counter of our days, only a display case was added (the public is now more respectable), and the canopy became rigid, decorative and illuminated to create coziness. The structure of a counter for a small public bar is shown in Fig. right. What if you intend to open a budget cafe-bar in the outback and are thinking of making a bar counter for it with your own hands in order to save on purchasing, delivery and assembly of a ready-made one, which may come in handy.

You can make a bar counter for a private house or a city apartment, depending on the available free space for it and the layout of the room, in different ways. Island counters in a studio kitchen (so-called kitchen islands, see figure) require a living room size of 6x8 m, so we won’t dwell on them.

The choice of a smaller bar counter for the home and kitchen is made according to the following criteria, in descending order of importance:

1. The possibilities of its placement, determined by the minimum permissible dimensions of the kitchen-bar complex;
2. Location of the rack in the room;
3. General ergonomics and functionality;
4. Desired design.

Based on these factors, the design of the rack and the material for it are selected, because They affect the quality and cost of this product relatively little. The minimum permissible transverse dimensions of a home bar counter are given on the right in Fig. below; its shortest possible length for 2 clients is 900 mm, the next one is added 650 mm, and each subsequent one 750 mm. Dimensions in parentheses are in inches. At the bottom right there are the recommended dimensions of a public bar counter and chairs for it, and at the top right are the transverse dimensions of the table top with a shelf for a 2-tier bar counter. The width of the tabletop is the same as that of a single-tier counter.

Location

The location of the bar counter in a residential area needs to be considered, taking into account, in addition to zoning possibilities and cost, also the suitability for removal without disassembly. Simply, let’s say, the children have gone, there is no time for drinks in the evenings, so that they can sell the whole thing and take it out the door for this. Depending on the location in the apartment, the bar counter can be:

• Island for 2-3 riders, if the living room is at least 4x6 m, pos. 1 in Fig. below. It is taken out entirely. Space is zoned weakly, almost imperceptibly. The most visually impressive, but also the most expensive option. Ergonomics - only for drinks and snacks.
• Distant from the wall, like a classic castle buffet counter, pos. 2. 1.5-2 square meters will be subtracted from the room. m of usable area. It is also taken out entirely. The premises are not zoned. The cost is low, the aesthetic effect depends more on the skill of the craftsman than on the cost of materials. Ergonomics as before. case, but the capacity per unit of occupied area is 1.5-2 times greater.
• Console, i.e. moving away from the wall, on a support (bar counter - kitchen table), pos. 3. Occupied area – 0.6-1 sq. m. The zoning effect is magnificent to any degree depending on design. You can take it out under your arm, but work is required to dismantle the fasteners and minor cosmetic repairs to remove it. The cost is the lowest, refined aesthetics are achievable at minimal cost. The ergonomics are universal, from everyday family dinner to ugly drinking bout. The capacity per unit of occupied area is 2.5-3 times higher than in 2 previous ones. cases. The most common option, preem. as part of kitchen complexes - “peninsulas”, see below.
• Console delivery note, pos. 4. It is usually installed in the partition left after the redevelopment or addition of the balcony. Costs, except for purely decorative elements - only for the tabletop. The area taken up is 0. The zoning is very deep, blocking the path of odors spreading with currents of warm air. Dining ergonomics are limited (knees rest against the support) and depend on the location. The drinking hall is absolute, even if you dance on it. The rest of the qualities are as in the previous case.
• Wall, pos. 5-8. There is no zoning; it takes up virtually no usable space. The costs are minimal, but also the amenities. Justified in some cases, see below.

Note: Another interesting option is possible - hanging, i.e. unsupported, cantilever bar counter, see e.g. video below. It’s complicated, a little expensive, a little heavy, it doesn’t zone, but it allows for installation and dismantling without touching the floor and ceiling.

Video: bar counter without supports

Wall stand

The only case when a bar counter close to the wall is quite appropriate is if the room already has a niche, pos. 7. The one in pos. 5 – will your appetite and mood increase if you eat or drink while staring at the wall? Bar counter in the wall opening, pos. 6 – and being absolutely sober, you can inadvertently push a plate or bottle back. With everything that implies in the literal sense of the word. The window bar counter (item 8) is actually an extended window sill. If outside the window there is a well-kept garden with a pond, a fountain, a gazebo or a beautiful landscape stretching into distant distances, this is a simple and cheap option without zoning and does not require a separate usable area. Well, if it’s an industrial zone or a box just like your house with ogling residents, see for yourself whether it’s to your liking.

Overlay boards

As already mentioned, a cantilever bar counter in a wall with an overhead tabletop is naturally obtained by attaching a balcony, on the left in Fig. However, the zoning effect from it is so strong that support for such a stand is often made using any of the methods described below, the remaining positions. in Fig. It is especially effective to separate the kitchen from the living room with an overhead console bar counter in the arch. In addition to the visual effect, such a solution will not let the kitchen fumes swirling under the ceiling into other rooms before it is removed by a standard hood.

Consoles

As you can see, console bar counters have a lot of advantages, being simple in design and inexpensive. Therefore, they are most widespread in a wide variety of variants. The ones discussed below do not exhaust all the possibilities of a console bar counter in a house or apartment.

Kitchen peninsula

Most often, console bar counters are part of kitchen corners - “peninsulas”, with 1-2 sides connecting to the walls. In such a complex, in addition to high functionality, deep zoning, excellent ergonomics, simplicity and low cost, other advantages of console bar counters are clearly manifested: they fully retain their qualities in any design and design, and also easily fit into any interior, see fig. .

Bar counters - tables

If deep zoning and complex design are not required, but simplicity and cheapness come first, then you can get a bar counter in the kitchen corner by simply attaching the tabletop to an existing bedside table, pos. 1 in Fig. Another the simplest option also with almost no zoning effect - stand-table, pos. 2. It is better to fasten its tabletop to the wall with brackets for loaded furniture shelves, see fig. lower right. They look better and hold more weight. On a pair of such brackets and a support made of wooden beam 50x50 mm for a tabletop made of laminated chipboard of the size indicated there, a thickness of 18 mm is sufficient, and with a length of 750-800 mm (2-seater version) - 16 mm.

Stronger and giving a zoning effect, although of insignificant size, the bar counter is a table with a panel structure, pos. 3. True, in terms of functionality it is inferior to a transforming kitchen table, although it looks almost the same as when folded. It wouldn’t hurt to talk about kitchen tables separately, but not this time, the topic is different. In general, entry-level functionality is a common feature of designs for pos. 1-3.

The average depth of zoning with average functionality and design possibilities for this type of bar counters is provided by a cantilever bar counter on a column support, pos. 4. It combines good division of space with visual permeability, “airiness” and comfort, with somewhere to put your feet. Full set The qualities of console bar counters are possessed by stacked structures, pos. 5, but the costs of their manufacture and installation do not increase much. The possibilities of stacked bar counters are not limited to this, see below.

Absolutely original version– mobile bar counter, pos. 6. This is essentially multifunctional furniture: dining table, shelving, ironing board, cutting table, etc. If you make do with chair legs, then tubular bottom ties can be placed 20-25 cm under the tabletop, this will be enough for strength. Then this bar counter, when not needed, can be rolled onto the washing machine to save space.

Stands, bedside tables and bookcases

Combining a bar counter with a bedside table or bookcase is a fruitful idea, because... provides even greater functionality and depth of zoning. Schemes of several options for combined bar counters are shown in Fig. They can be placed not only on the border of the kitchen, but anywhere in the living space. For example, to divide a large living room or one-room apartment into zones.

As for the border of the kitchen area, a shelf-type bar counter with an additional rotating tabletop on a column would be much more convenient: in everyday use, the fixed tabletop serves as a cutting table, and the rotating one extends for eating. During drinking hours, the swivel section can serve as an armrest or serving table, almost as safe for food and utensils as the side table of a 2-tier counter.

Drawings of a bar counter with an additional rotating tabletop are shown in Fig. below. Ready-made sets of parts for these, in addition to the cabinet and countertops, are available for sale at reasonable prices. However, if you own a lathe, then all of them can be turned on a machine: the hinge base is a regular self-aligning ball bearing. In this case, keep in mind that it is better not to fasten the column with a spreader (all screw connections eventually weaken), but to attach the thrust bearing and ceiling support to the supporting surfaces with self-tapping screws in dowels. Then the upper connection should be free-sliding, i.e. the stop turns into a bushing that simply prevents the column from tipping sideways.

3 more important points regarding this design. First, the wheel must be self-orienting. Although its trajectory is precisely defined, it is curvilinear. A wheel that doesn’t rotate will run slowly and the entire structure will become loose over time. Secondly, the floor in the kitchen under this bar counter needs porcelain stoneware. On any other flooring, the wheel will either make a mark that cannot be removed, or will eat out a groove. Third, the glass of the cabinet door is the strength element of its design, ensuring its rigidity. The glass should be 10 mm minus 2 mm thick to the rebate depth, i.e. 8 mm. It is installed in place by gluing it with silicone glue. To reduce weight, improve the reliability and mechanical properties of the cabinet, it is better to use acrylic glass.

About pipe stands

Pipes for support posts and columns of bar counters are used from polished stainless steel or chrome-plated brass; On ordinary structural steel, the galvanic coating does not adhere well and soon begins to peel off. When the bar counter is in use, plastic or steel pipes with a plastic coating quickly eat into kitchen fumes and dirt, and they lose their appearance and are not subject to intensive cleaning.

Designs and materials

To understand other types of bar counters, you will have to turn to their designs, because... Now they are not all in sight. Most of all, prefabricated bar counters are made from solid wood or lumber, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig; Both luxury and budget options are possible here, see below.

In the middle and budget class, bar counters of panel or frame construction are more common; the latter are sheathed with sheet or slab facing materials. By appearance panel and frame smoothly hemmed bar counters are immediately indistinguishable (item 3). If the bar counter requires as much visual permeability as possible, three-dimensional frame structures are built, pos. 4.

More about materials

In addition to traditional wood and wood materials, for the manufacture of bar counters, gypsum board, metal connecting parts and profiles, synthetic and mineral, are widely used finishing materials. Brick and stone are sometimes used. Which of all of them is better where and when, we will look further in the course of the presentation.

Wooden

Any bar counter made of wood looks solid simply because it is made of wood. Let's look at 2 samples as an example. The first is an expensive, luxurious “gentleman’s” bar counter made of solid wood with a stone countertop. The diagram of its device, drawings and dimensions of connections are given in Fig. Of course, to make one like this, you need to be a very skilled carpenter.

The second is a mini bar counter made of long lumber; this is suitable, in principle, for a 2-3 room Khrushchev house; For drawings and dimensions, see fig. The key point of this design is the plank cladding and the presence of a middle shelf, both of which together ensure proper coherence of the structure (see below). A box-shaped version is also possible (see below), but it is less reliable and will require higher costs for materials.

Box racks

Box-shaped bar counters are assembled from laminated chipboards with a thickness of 24 mm or more plywood sheets from 20 mm on furniture corner connectors (see figure on the right). The box-shaped design is technologically advanced (a green beginner can make a bar counter of this type in a weekend), but it requires increased consumption of quite expensive materials. And what’s even worse is that any box-shaped structure is fundamentally susceptible to sudden catastrophic destruction from overloads, especially shock ones. Agree, for a piece of furniture on which people drink, this is a serious flaw.

Bar counters on a frame

The frame bar counter is a geometrically (more precisely, topologically) high and flat product. In this case, to ensure proper strength great value acquires the so-called coherence of the structure. This concept is quite complex, but its essence is easy to explain with an example.

Make a square frame from wooden blocks on steel corners and try to loosen it. It turns out? Now, lengthwise or across, it doesn’t matter, attach the same block in the middle (maybe not exactly exactly) in the same way and try again for skew. Has it become stronger? This is because the cohesiveness of the structure has increased. The openwork frames of aircraft gliders with thin skin can withstand heavy weight and overload precisely due to their high connectivity.

Keeping these circumstances in mind, the wooden frame of a bar counter of a conventional design (item 1 in the figure) is more or less suitable only for corner or round counters, because they have a large construction width. Pallets for building materials – pallets – themselves have high cohesiveness. From these alone you can already make an original-looking bar counter, behind which you won’t be ashamed to pour beer along with your horse, pos. 2. In general, furniture made from pallets also deserves a separate discussion.

However, for an apartment bar counter, it is better to disassemble the pallet(s), this will provide durable, high-quality wood. And from beams and boards from pallets it is easy to assemble a plank frame with high cohesion, pos. 3 (remember the experimental frame?), which can be sheathed not only with fragile materials like drywall (gypsum plasterboard, plasterboard sheet), but also with very weak materials like fiberboard or wood veneer (see also below).

Note: the simplest way improve the bar counter covered with gypsum plasterboard or fiberboard - painting with textured stone-like paint or decorative plaster, see fig. right.

Another way to increase the overall strength of the bar is to increase the strength of the frame material and its own cohesion. Steel profiles have high intrinsic cohesiveness. The frame of a bar counter welded from corrugated pipe (item 4) is heavy and labor-intensive, but if a bar counter covered with gypsum plasterboard is made for sale or taking into account the possibility of transportation, this is the only 100% reliable way to ensure its safety during rigging and transportation.

As for the highly cohesive plank frame, you can quickly, easily and inexpensively assemble a bar counter with a completely “gentlemanly” look on it, see fig. The cladding in this case is oak veneer, decorative details are applied. You can reduce the cost of this design almost to the budget level by installing an overlay decor made of MDF.

More about gypsum boards

By applying thin, but with an optimal ratio of elasticity and rigidity, sheathing, rigidly fastened to the frame elements, the coherence of frame structures increases many times over. This is the so-called. structures with working cladding. This is precisely the general line of development of world aviation, starting with A. N. Tupolev’s ANT-1. But there is no hope for gypsum board in this regard: it is inexpensive and technologically advanced, but too fragile for furniture. Therefore, a plasterboard bar counter needs to be made of a three-dimensional frame like a plasterboard suspended ceiling, shelving or wall cladding. In this way, it is possible to make the bar counter quite “airy” (see figure) and durable, but certain conditions must be met:

• The frame material is standard C- and U-profiles for plasterboard. The frame of a volumetric structure made of gypsum plasterboard must have high intrinsic cohesion, which is what these profiles are designed for. Functional gypsum plasterboard sheathing is acceptable on ceilings or walls, but not on furniture. An alternative is a wooden frame with high intrinsic cohesion, see above.
• Frame cell – no more than 350x350 mm; It is highly advisable to limit the dimensions to 250x250 mm.
• The connections of the frame elements at the crosshairs are made only with standard crab overlays. The connectivity of the crosshairs of C- and U-profiles connected with a drywall crab increases by more than 10 times compared to simply screwed with self-tapping screws, which is why drywall crabs were invented.

Brick and stone

Bar counters on supports made of brick or wild stone look good in interiors of loft, primitivism, etc. styles. deliberately rude. However, to build a bar counter like the one in pos. 1 pic. - a serious problem. The weight load from it on the floor will exceed the default construction allowable 250 kg/sq. m. The construction of such a bar counter is tantamount to redevelopment with everything that implies: measurements, calculations, an approved project and painful registration of permission in the authorities. The maximum you can count on here without drowning in papers is a brick support for a console bar counter made of 1 brick (item 2). The pressure on the floor from a granite, basalt or other heavy stone support of the same dimensions in plan will already exceed the building norm, and light types of stone (limestone, slate, shell rock, etc.) become dirty.

You can make a bar counter under sawn wild stone or brick, practically indistinguishable from a natural one (item 3), but certainly not overloading the ceiling, by lining the frame support with flexible stone or any stone-like facing tile: clinker, terracotta, porcelain stoneware. Plastic imitations of stone (eg. basement siding) are not suitable in this case, because to the touch it is immediately clear that it is a surrogate.

Flexible stone accurately imitates textures natural stones, incl. valuable, lightweight and glued to drywall with any tile adhesive. The flexible stone can be used to trace corners and curved surfaces, but it is as rough as sandpaper. Getting up from the counter after an intimate conversation with libations, you can find holes in your knees and worn out toes of shoes.

The plasterboard does not support the weight load from mineral facing tiles; its top layer peels off along with the cladding. To cover the bar counter with stone-look tiles, rough cladding requires plywood. It is plastered with starter plaster on a grid and the tiles are glued with cement-sand based glue. In this case, no special glue is needed; universal glue for terracotta, clinker and porcelain stoneware is suitable.

Bar in the country

A 2-level bar counter can be built entirely from brick (possibly foam blocks or gas blocks) in the country; To preserve the finish, it is better under a canopy or in a gazebo. Then the lower level is equipped with a brazier, barbecue or barbecue. For an approximate structure and dimensions of a country brick bar counter, see item. 4 fig. higher.

In conclusion

As you can see, a bar counter in a modern home can carry many useful functions. So, is its purpose now purely utilitarian? No and no again.

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Just a few decades ago, such an element would hardly have taken root in our kitchen, given our mentality and love for lavish feasts and “heart-to-heart kitchen conversations.”

But the modern pace of life dictates its own conditions. Now, for a quick cup of morning coffee or a light snack before going to a restaurant, a bar counter is enough.

The photo shows a wall-mounted bar counter that fits perfectly into a small kitchen space and completely replaces the dining table.

Moreover, it is The bar counter helps solve several problems at once kitchen interior design.

1. 1 Additional work surface. What kind of housewife would refuse extra centimeters of her worktop! Moreover, in a small kitchen, the counter can completely replace the work table. You can compactly arrange all kitchen appliances and furniture modules by combining them into an impromptu wall. In this case, a bar counter installed at an angle can easily replace both a dining table and a work table.
2. 2 Zoning point. The bar counter has become an indispensable element in furnishing an apartment with a studio layout. In this case, it plays the role of a “separator” between the kitchen and living room. And in the kitchen itself, the counter can separate the working and dining areas.
3. 3 Alternative to the dining table. This option is most often chosen by owners of miniature kitchens, where there is not enough space for a full-fledged dining table, but it is quite possible to find a free meter of space for a bar counter.
4. 4 Additional storage space. The base of the rack is a great place to add additional cabinets, drawers and shelves. And the second level of the rack is also used for storing, for example, glasses.

Types of bar counters

The photo shows a bar counter for a kitchen in a modern style, made of MDF.

Which counter should you choose for your kitchen? What parameters to consider and what to pay attention to? We will try to cover these questions in this section. So, types of bar counters and their characteristics:

Wall rack

As the name implies, such a stand is installed near the wall, regardless of the furniture set. Good option for a kitchen of non-standard shape, when you have to adapt to disproportionate sizes.

Location options

How to decorate a wall?

It all depends on what functionality you want to give the bar counter.

• You can increase the upper part by equipping through shelves - you will get an excellent “delimiter” of zones.
• If desired, part of the wall can also be extended using plasterboard, and a niche can be installed here where you can store, for example, bottles. Don’t forget to illuminate the opening in the wall, and the niche will immediately become a bright art object.
• The simplest option: installing a mirror on the wall is a good opportunity to play up the space. Moreover, the mirror will “work” for expansion.
• Or you can use this part of the wall for decoration: hang a picture selected in accordance with the design style, hang a photo here, or even make a photo collage.
• You can decorate the wall with painting. It will look organic, especially if the elements of the painting are repeated in the design of the counter itself or in the interior of the entire kitchen.

Combined stand

This bar counter is considered as a continuation of the worktop. Modern manufacturers offer kitchen furniture with a built-in bar counter. But if you wish, you can order the stand separately, focusing on your own tastes and needs.

The combined stand is usually low. But it will fit perfectly even into the interior of a small kitchen. Such a counter is often decorated in the same way as the work area: that is, the same finishing materials are chosen for the countertops and a color that is repeated on the kitchen apron or furniture.

It’s good if the stand is installed at an angle to the main one work area. In a long, elongated kitchen, this will help balance the shape of the room, bringing it closer to the desired square.

Island stand

Such a stand is appropriate only in spacious kitchens with a lot of free space or in studio apartments.

Lightweight option: the countertop is installed on consoles. Dimensional option: the lower part is used to place cabinets, closed and open shelves, drawers, and the tabletop is used both as part of the dining table and as a work area.

Additionally, such a rack can be equipped with a mini-fridge, a complex railing system, hangers for wine glasses and glasses, as well as a roof with autonomous system backlight.

Two-level rack

An excellent option for a studio layout or spacious kitchen. Part of the counter is a full-fledged dining table, the second - a higher part - is like a bar counter itself.

This option is especially suitable for families with small children or elderly people who find it difficult to climb onto high bar stools.

In apartments where the kitchen and living room are combined, such a counter can become an indispensable element of arrangement and zoning. Typically, the lower side is installed on the kitchen side, and the high side on the living room side.

Materials for the bar counter

You should not save, as cheap materials do not have sufficient wear resistance, and your rack will soon turn into a source of constant problems.

The most popular materials for making a stand:

• MDF, chipboard, fiberboard - it is better to choose laminated boards. The advantage of this material is a rich range of colors. You can decorate the countertop in the same color as the rest of the furniture. Or you can choose a contrasting one. For example, if you have white modules, then a black stand will become a bright and stylish interior detail.
• Plastic - the material is suitable if your kitchen is decorated in one of the modern styles. Minimalism and hi-tech styles are especially fond of plastic.
• Wood is an indispensable material for a classic kitchen. If the kitchen is spacious, the wood can be decorated with carvings and additionally decorated with mosaics, mirrors or tiles. In a small kitchen, a wooden bar counter with a laconic shape will look solid and luxurious. But at the same time, strict forms will not look too massive.
• Stone - natural or artificial. This stand will fit into any interior, regardless of style and direction. This is the most preferable option, since the stone is very wear-resistant and attractive in appearance.
• Corian is the most popular material for bar countertops. It looks like marble, but is much cheaper and more accessible. The undoubted advantage of Corian is that it has a rich palette, so you can match the color to any kitchen.
• Glass is a choice for lovers of unusual and bold options. The glass stand really turns out to be light, airy, and original. Such a piece of furniture would be appropriate for modern kitchen. This is also a great option for a “thumbelina” kitchen.
• Drywall is an economical option. But, due to the fact that drywall is easy to process, you can build a stand of the most unusual, abstract shape. The only negative is that it is better to make racks from plasterboard if you use it as a decorative element - for example, as a “separator” of zones. Remember that an abundance of moisture and temperature changes can lead to deformation of the plasterboard sheet.
• Metal - original solution for the bar counter. It will fit perfectly into the kitchen interior, made in one of the modern styles. If you add decorations from forged elements, you will get a stylish stand in the Art Nouveau style.

Accessories and fittings

Bar stools

The main “neighbors” of the counter are high stools, which are also called bar stools. Since the standard counter height is 110-125 cm, the chairs should be high.

When choosing chairs, please note that a large number of legs is acceptable if the kitchen space is large. For a miniature kitchen, it is better to choose chairs with one leg.

Option: in a very small kitchen you can do without free-standing chairs. The seats are screwed to the bottom of the tabletop and simply pulled out if necessary.

Hard chairs can be modernized by placing cushions on the seats that match the rest of the textiles. The backs and arms on the chairs are optional. But the presence of a footrest is a must.

Before buying a chair, try to sit on them - do your legs reach the stand, is it comfortable to “climb” onto the high seat. Otherwise, it is better to look for models with adjustable height of both the seat itself and the footrest.

Lighting for the bar counter

Lighting is the most important detail. It is most convenient to plan in advance autonomous lighting for the part of the kitchen with a counter.

Options:

• built-in ceiling lights around the perimeter of the rack;
• LED strips at the bottom of the tabletop;
• lamps on long cords arranged in a row above the counter;
• lamps or LEDs on the outside of the base.

Bar pipe

An optional, but very functional and stylish part of the rack. It can extend all the way to the ceiling and support an illuminated overhead console. It can simply rest against the ceiling and be “overgrown” with a variety of glass holders and hanging shelves.

If your kitchen has low ceilings, it is better to avoid a high bar pipe, as it visually lowers the height of the ceilings.

The material from which such a pipe-leg is made may vary. Traditionally, it is made of metal (brass, nickel or stainless steel); for a classic kitchen, you can choose a model made of wood, decorated with carvings.

Consoles

If you have chosen a more massive, non-open type of rack, then please note that the consoles that serve as the base can be decorated to your liking. From the kitchen side, of course, it is more convenient if it is a set of open and closed shelves and drawers. The facades are matched to the tone of the main furniture.

But the part of the base facing outward is a real expanse for designer imagination.

Here are some options:

• To face it with stone is sound, stylish and luxurious. Pairs perfectly with the classic kitchen decor.
• Cover with MDF sheets, repeating furniture facades. Such a counter will seem like a continuation of the kitchen unit.
• Imitation brickwork- an interesting option for kitchens in country and loft style.
• Glass panels are an original solution. But don’t forget to illuminate the insides - and you will get a real extravaganza of light and color. By the way, the glass must be impact-resistant. And if you do not want the contents of the internal shelves to shine through, choose frosted glass.
• Skinali is a variant of glass panels, but decorated with a pattern or photo printing. A great way to decorate a bar counter, especially since you can choose a voluminous pattern, which will add style to the entire counter.
• A built-in aquarium is a creative solution for an unusual kitchen. Such a stand immediately turns into an art object and will serve as a real interior decoration. Moreover, if you doubt whether you should choose a real aquarium with live fish, pay attention to the so-called “dry” aquariums. They completely imitate the real thing. In addition, for a dry aquarium you can come up with an unusual design theme: for example, not an underwater world, but a desert world, a rock garden or a mini-jungle.
• Mosaic is a bright and stylish decor for your counter. You can lay out a specific pattern, or you can repeat the mosaic laying on the apron. But keep in mind that the mosaic is heavy, so it requires a strong and good foundation.
• Artistic painting is another way to turn a counter into a work of art. But when choosing paints for a design, do not forget that the overall palette should not be discordant with the rest of the colors in the kitchen.

Accessories

The bar counter creates a special atmosphere of lightness and ease. And since the counter is most often associated with drinking drinks, it is worth equipping it with special accessories that will emphasize functionality.

Such items include:

• special holders for glasses. If the kitchen is small, a holder attached to the main rod is sufficient. In a large kitchen, you can install holders on top, like in a real bar.
• fruit bowl;
• bottle holder;
• shaker;
• blender;
• rimmer (device for decorating the edge of a glass);
• Steiner (bar strainer);
• geyser (a device for pouring liquid in a thin stream);
• muddler (pestle for grinding fresh leaves and berries);
• juicer;
• ice bucket.

Such accessories will add a special flavor to the interior of your kitchen. Now you can invite guests and have a real cocktail party.

Basic design mistakes

1. 1 Wrong location. Make sure that once the bar counter is installed it is easy to access. It is better not to install the stand directly at the entrance or near the refrigerator.
2. 2 Discomfort during use. Often, carried away by design delights, we forget that the base of the bar counter should be narrower than the tabletop. Otherwise, you will simply rest your knees, which is extremely inconvenient.
3. 3 Congestion. Do not overload the structure by equipping the rack with all possible rails, holders and shelves. An overloaded top or an overly massive bottom will make your stand too bulky. This is especially true for counters for kitchens with a modest area.
4. 4 Irregular rack shape. The most popular are rectangular, round and semicircular racks. The main thing to consider is that the shape of the stand should be repeated in the interior. So, for example, if you have furniture of laconic shapes with regular straight lines, then the stand should be rectangular. If you definitely want to choose a semicircular counter, then think about how to repeat these smooth lines in the interior. You can repeat the semicircle in the shape of a suspended ceiling; you can design the floor in a semicircle, laying it with tiles around the perimeter of the counter. The easiest way is to choose textiles with smooth lines or images of circles and ovals. This remark especially applies to stands of abstract forms. If you have a counter, for example, in the form of a cascading wave, then there should be smooth lines in the interior.

As you can see, a bar counter is not just a luxury item, but a completely functional piece of furniture that will solve several problems at once and emphasize the chosen design style. We hope that our tips will give you the idea of ​​creating your own original bar counter that will fit perfectly into the interior of your kitchen.