It's no secret that an LED strip cannot be simply plugged into the network - it will burn out without working for even a second. But then how can we provide it with the necessary voltage? This is precisely what a stabilizing device is for. In simple terms, this is a 12V power supply for LED strip, which equalizes the voltage to the required level. But today we’ll talk about what types they come in, how they are structured, and whether it’s possible to make such a stabilizing device with your own hands.
Read in the article:
12 V power supply for LED strip - what kind of work does it do?
A voltage stabilizer does the job of lowering the high mains voltage of 220, 12 or 24 V and converting AC to DC. If you look at it, the same actions are performed by charger any mobile phone, but it will produce less voltage.
But such stabilizers can not only supply direct current at 24 or 12 V. The power supply for a 12 V LED strip can also be a controller. Thanks to the complex electronic circuit such power supplies control flickering modes and changing the color of the RGB strip. They are capable of delivering enough power to “light up” several separate sections of LED strip, provided they are selected and connected correctly. But, first things first. First, let’s figure out what advantages and disadvantages can be noted in the need to use such power sources.
Pros and cons of connecting LED strips to a 12 V power supply
The main positive aspect of such switching can be called electrical safety - after all, a voltage of 220 V is dangerous to life, which cannot be said about 12 V. This advantage covers all the minor disadvantages, such as the need to purchase a power supply for the tape and the need to hide it somewhere.
Practice shows that even insulated connections in damp rooms can fail. In the case of installing lighting in the bathroom, this is doubly important. You can imagine what will happen if the phase is on cast iron bath while a person is in it. Surely everyone imagines a hairdryer falling into water... If this happens with a 12 V backlight, then a person will not feel anything except a slight tingling sensation, which many will not even pay attention to.
Another advantage is that if the stabilization device is included with the controller, then at 12 V it turns out to be quite compact. You can imagine what size it would be at a voltage of 220 V. Thus, the conclusion suggests itself that the minor inconveniences associated with using a 12 V power supply for LED strips are more than offset by the advantages that such a connection has.
Types of stabilization devices for light strip
LED strip power supplies can be divided into several types:
- on cooling– active or passive. Active implies the presence in the power supply of a fan that forcibly cools the transformer;
- by execution– it can be a closed, sealed or open case. The latter is installed only in dry and dust-free rooms;
- by functionality– a regular power supply, with a dimmer, a controller, or combining all these functions.
Of course, the most interesting is the power supply for LEDs with an RGB controller. This abbreviation in the marking of both the power supply and the light strips means that the device is multi-colored. It comes from the first letters of the names of the main three colors on English, which form the remaining 4. Such controllers are most often equipped with an IR radiation receiver to be able to control colors using a remote control. This allows you to turn the lighting on and off, as well as switch its shades from anywhere in the room.
Often it also has a built-in dimming function - slowly dimming the lighting - which is also very useful.
Power supplies in a sealed case are installed in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, toilet or kitchen. At the same time, a good controller is able to switch the backlight from one line to another as needed.
Important to know! To ensure uninterrupted operation of the LEDs, it is necessary to select the correct power supply not only in terms of voltage, but also in terms of power. It is also very important correct connection, which we will talk about in more detail below.
How to calculate the power supply for an LED strip
Such calculations do not present any difficulties. All that is required is to calculate the total power consumption of the light strip section, and then add a margin of 20%. Let's try, as an example, to calculate the required power of the power supply for LEDs. Let's take a tape with SMD3528 elements, 3 m long and a frequency of 120 pcs/m. For such a strip, the power consumption of all diodes over a segment of 1 m will be equal to 28.8 W. We get 28.8 × 3 + 20%, which will be equal to 100.68 W. The closest indicator to this figure will be a 150 W power supply, so that’s what you’ll need. Although a 100-watt unit will work quite normally with such a band.
These calculations are very important. After all, if you don’t understand how to choose a power supply and do it incorrectly, it can simply burn out. And this is wasted money and wasted effort on installation.
Options for connecting the LED strip to the power supply
There are only two ways to connect this lighting equipment, like any other - in series and in parallel. But here the editing option plays a very big role. important role. If you choose the wrong switching method, you can burn the contact tracks through which voltage passes from one LED to another.
The choice of installation scheme depends on the length of the strip sections. Each of them has places for cutting. Usually the distance between them is 3 LEDs. And if the tape segments total more than 5 meters, then it can no longer be connected in series. Let's figure out how to properly install and connect.
Serial connection - in what cases is it performed?
Such switching is a connection in which power reaches the second consumer, passing through the first.
If the segments are short enough, then they must be connected to each other in series. This will allow you to increase the length of the strip to the required length. But it is worth understanding that the total final length should not exceed the same parameter of the new LED strip. In other words, if it was sold in a coil of 5 m, then after splicing the final size of the strip should be less than or equal to the original.
If the length is exceeded, there is a danger of burning out the conductive paths between the light diodes due to the passage of high power current through them. In this case, the tracks between the first elements burn out first. When they are removed between the next ones, and so on until the length of the strip is normal for proper operation.
Parallel connection of the strip and how to do it
Parallel connection is called switching, in which power from the source is supplied simultaneously to two or more consumers. However, they are not connected to each other.
If you need to connect a strip, for example, 9 m, then installation in a parallel circuit is necessary. To do this, we take sections of 5 m and 4 m. The wire coming from the power supply is switched in the same order with both strips. It turns out that power from the stabilizing device is supplied simultaneously to both segments. This allows you to avoid overloading the tracks going from one LED to another.
Important to know! With this installation scheme, do not forget about the operating power of the stabilizer. It consists of the total consumption of two segments.
In general, it is necessary to understand that when connected in parallel, the voltage drop remains unchanged, but the current consumption increases - this is quite important to know when installing such lighting equipment.
How difficult is it to make a voltage stabilization device for a light strip?
It should be noted that only a professional radio electronics engineer can assemble such a power supply from scratch. But don’t think that without certain qualifications this is impossible. After all, it is quite possible to use a factory-made transformer for this purpose. A good option would be to use a computer power supply. The main task here is to choose a device that is suitable for the LED strip in terms of power.
Before choosing a power supply for the strip, we determine the required voltage. If the diodes require 12 V, then the output from the transformer should be from 12 to 20 V. It is quite convenient if you have a ready-made two-semiconductor rectifier on hand, which is necessary for the operation of the stabilizer. And the third thing you need is a microprocessor. The most successful solution would be to use the 7812 chip.
By putting all the parts together, you can get a power supply with an output current of 1.5 A, which is quite enough for an LED strip. Of course, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to assemble a controller for an RGB strip with your own hands, but there’s a trick here too. It is quite possible to use a block from an old Chinese garland, the parameters of which are indicated on the body. In this case, based on the power it produces, you can calculate the required length of the strip and connect it to the controller, thus achieving the ability to switch between flickering modes and colors. The only inconvenience will be that switching can only be done with a button on the block, which means it won’t be possible to hide it.
Another fairly simple method that does not require knowledge of radio electronics is connecting a light strip through a controller from an LED chandelier with a remote control. All technical data for calculating the length of the tape by power can be taken from the documentation for.
Is it possible to repair a voltage stabilizer for light diodes?
This work is quite doable even for home craftsmen who do not have specific skills and knowledge. The main task here is to determine which parts require replacement. The main parts that can fail are the microprocessor and the rectifier bridge. Transformers rarely burn, but this does happen. Let's try to understand how to figure out the breakdown.
It is worth starting the check with the simplest components, as with any equipment. Having opened the cover of the group of contacts, we set the multimeter switch to the AC position of 750 V (on some devices 1000 V) and by applying power to the block, we check whether it is supplied to the input contacts of the transformer for the 12 V LED strip.
Very important! When performing all operations with a transformer, you must be extremely careful and careful. Do not touch live parts with unprotected parts of the body. Remember that electric shock is dangerous to life and health.
If voltage is supplied to the unit, then the supply wires are in order. We check the voltage at the output of the transformer. As already mentioned, it should be from 12 to 20 V. The next step is to check the diode bridge. To do this, set the value of the multimeter switch to constant voltage with a value slightly higher than the transformer output. When you touch the contacts at the output of the rectifier bridge, the device should show the same values as at the previous stage (only small deviations downward are possible).
If after performing the above actions it becomes clear that the step-down transformer and diode bridge are working normally, this means a problem in the microcircuit. After identifying a malfunction, you will need to replace the failed circuit part. The new one will have the same parameters.
Where to buy a power supply for LED strip
These days you can purchase the necessary equipment at any electrical equipment store. Fortunately, the range of such products is now quite wide. You can also order it online. However, it is worth studying as carefully as possible the reviews of those who have already used this resource. You should especially beware of purchasing such goods from Chinese resources. Here's what one of the netizens says about it.
vitas77, Russia, Moscow: The driver arrived for almost three weeks, and then the day came when I discovered in my mailbox a long-awaited package, everything is packaged quite well, the driver itself has soldered wires. I connected the LEDs according to the description, connected the power, everything worked, but my joy did not last long, the driver got noticeably heated and eventually refused to work. The device worked for no more than an hour. Conclusion, money and time wasted. At the end of everything that has been written, I want to warn you: before ordering, contact the seller and find out as much information as possible.
More details on Otzovik: http://otzovik.com/review_2975618.html
Let's try to consider how the prices differ when purchasing such power devices in regular stores and on online resources. Let's start with real sellers of controllers for RGB strips (the last digit in the model name means the number of channels).
| Make and model | Total current, A | Channel current, A | Voltage, V | Number of programs | Average cost, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| iMLed2 | 30 | 15 | 5-25 | 23 | 1200 |
| iMLed4 | 30 | 20 | 5-20 | 23 | 1500 |
| iMLed6 | 30 | 15 | 5-25 | 20 | 1900 |
| iMLed9 | 80 | 15 | 5-20 | 20 | 3000 |
| iMLed16x3 | 32 | 2 | 5-23 | 20 | 3300 |
| iMLed16 | 80 | 15 | 5-20 | 20 | 3500 |
As you can see, the cost of such devices is not too high. But what about online stores? Let's try to find devices with similar characteristics.
| Make and model | Total current, A | Output power, W | Output voltage, V | Number of programs | Average cost, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
CRIXLED CRCN N18-RFS-12 | 18 | 216 | 12-24 | 14 | 1800 |
ASD LS-CB-12 | 12 | 144 | 12-24 | 20 | 500 |
LSC 003 | 2 | 24 | 12-24 | No | 500 |
LSC 008 | 4 | 144 | 12-24 | 3 | 1500 |
RGB 144W | 12 | 144 | 12 | 14 | 1200 |
Ecola LED strip | 6,6 | 1500 | 12-36 | 24 | 2000 |
Generally speaking, prices don't vary too much. This means that there is no point in taking risks by buying a “pig in a poke” online. After all, in this case it will not be possible to make a claim to the seller, and most likely there will be no guarantee.
In conclusion
A power supply for an LED strip is necessary - this is clear to everyone. The main thing is to choose one that suits all the parameters specifically for your light strip. And if all calculations are made correctly, then such a voltage stabilization device will work quite well. for a long time.
We hope that today's article was useful to our dear reader. In the discussions below, you can always ask questions on the topic that remain unclear. Write, communicate, share your experience. Our team will try to answer your questions as fully as possible and help to the best of their ability.
Finally, we suggest watching a short video on the topic.
Video: connecting LED strips
So, it was a gloomy autumn day, it was drizzling, and I finally decided to do something with my evening - I had just received some money, went to the electrical goods store and thought... at home, in the dark, I constantly came across boxes and boxes around the desktop, and sitting at a computer with a 30-watt CFL on is not always convenient or even necessary. My gaze fell - fortunately there are many of them in different variations, there are different colors, power, food, price.
I decided to choose strips that were sold by the meter - a meter costs about 150 rubles - 60 blue LEDs - declared power 4.8 watts.
You can even divide it into groups; the strip consists of blocks of 3 LEDs with a common resistor that extinguishes the current on them; cut 30 LEDs each - that’s about half a meter.
The current consumed by the tape meter, according to the measurement results, turned out to be about 320 mA, according to calculations, the power was, well, a maximum of 4 watts at 12 volts of power - which means the power in the store was overestimated. Tapes can also be bought in coiled packages, 5 meters each, and cut as soon as convenient, choose any color - white, green, blue, red.
To power the tapes, a power supply was purchased in the same store for 290 rubles - it stated that it was 12 volts, 12 watts and pulsed, as tests at home showed, the unit produces 12.1 volts without load, and a current of about 1 A, goes into protection at a current higher than 1.2 A.
The current is clean, without interference - this is how you can power the transmitter, let’s say - it doesn’t emit anything - I checked it myself on a varicap.
The unit itself is light, compact, does not heat up during operation, the adapter plug was not included in the kit, and the store ran out of them - so I just cut off the wires.
Under load, the voltage, as a rule, also does not sags; in the store, the consultant calculated that for two tapes it would be just right, but as I understand it, you can easily connect the third. The wires for connection were taken from the speakers, which remained with a cross-section of 0.4 square.
In the instructions for the unit, even though it is Chinese, everything is described in detail and in tables, in good understandable language, which you can see for yourself.
The tapes have on their reverse side, which can hold them firmly on any surface - they are glued very quickly and reliably. The light is even, with a well-defined selected color, heating during operation is not significant, to extinguish the current to the LEDs in groups, there are SMD resistors in 1206
size.
They are available from sellers and - which are covered with a transparent polymer - these can also be placed on the street.
Wires to the tape are soldered on any of the extreme terminals of the tape, observing the polarity of the power connection. On each LED, when dropped through a resistor, approximately 3 volts are obtained.
To power LEDs, you need a stable voltage without overestimating its value - that’s why you need such a stabilized power supply, you can, of course, use a block with a crank or a crank to stabilize the power source in cars, but the power supply must have reliable stabilization and protection, as sources write that modern LEDs produce - overestimating the supply voltage by as much as 0.5 volts can reduce the lifespan of an LED by about a quarter of the nominal value, and more than 1.5 volts per strip (entire) can reduce the lifespan by half.
That’s why, when installing it in a car, many people mistakenly connect the tape directly to the on-board power supply - and then they wonder why after a couple of months the LEDs start to fade! But the voltage on board the network can fluctuate and up to 14.7 volts ! Which is very destructive for such products, but if you add a stabilizer, then everything will be fine. LEDs can be used anywhere, depending on the owner’s imagination. Comrade was with you. redmoon
Discuss the article POWER POWER FOR LED STRIPS
Diodes are the simplest modern way to organize cheap lighting. We suggest you consider how to make and connect a power supply for an LED strip with your own hands, as well as power calculations and device selection.
Purpose of the power supply
LED strips are an excellent alternative to powerful lighting, for example, from an incandescent lamp or an energy-saving lamp. Selecting LEDs is not difficult; the biggest problem is connecting them to the network. In order to organize convenient and beautiful LED lighting, you will need a special power supply.
Photo - Power supply for LED stripThe power supply, also known as a small transformer or conductor, is one of the most important components of an LED system and is designed to power the LEDs. Its dimensions are small, so you can easily mount the device under suspended ceiling or in furniture. Using the wrong type of power supply device can not only damage the LED strip, but also cause a fire in your home. It is also important to know what AC input voltage you need and to be sure that the selected device meets these parameters. For the construction of the housing, plastic is mainly used, which resists many external destructive factors (it can be used outdoors, in damp rooms). Let's look at how to choose the right power supply:
- Determine the desired voltage.
The constant voltage that LED products require before operation is key when choosing a transformer model and its power level. Most stores offer a non-adjustable controller, i.e. it always outputs the same voltage. This does not mean that the brightness of the lamps will not be controlled; on the contrary, this indicator is controlled by a special PWM dimmer, which greatly simplifies the operation of the power supply. The most popular models with a built-in dimmer are Feron (for RGB strip LB005 30W 12V), Led Lamp, 450W GEMBIRD ATX (120mm fan) CCC-PSU, Arlight, ARPV LV-35-12, NS-LV-50-12(12V, 4A, 50W), HTS-100, YGY-121000, ZC-BSPS 12V3,3A=40W jaZZway.
- Determine the total length of the lighting strip.
Once you have determined the voltage of the LED product you want to use, you need to calculate the distance of the entire LED strip.
- Select the power of the power supply.
The power selection for any LED strip power supply is made according to a special table; we recommend that you read the instructions of the selected company. It is very important not to skimp on a device with the required power.
- Calculation of the device.
Before installing a low-power or multi-channel transformer, you need to calculate some parameters. If you know the length of the LED strip and the power, then you need to multiply these indicators and add 10-5 percent error to them. The resulting number will be an indicator of the heat flow W/m2, and depending on it you need to select a power supply. This will help protect yourself and your family from short circuits and cable burnouts.
- Installation of the block.
Now all that remains is to assemble the power supply and tape into one working system. If you do not use a computer transformer, then you need:
Take a small piece of wire and a short green and black wire. This is how we will mark the phase and ground cables. Connect the electricity to the yellow and black wires. Let's say Yellow = 12 + Red = 5V + Black = Ground. To ensure a clean installation, you may need to completely disassemble the transformer. Cut out all the wires, leaving a couple of black cords, a green cable and some yellow ones.
Photo - Connecting the power supply Remove the green and black cords, twist them together and set them aside. Check that the black and yellow wires are connected correctly, and then connect the device to the network. Make sure that the device is sealed, the output cable is well sealed, and other contact points are not touching.
Photo - Compact power supply for LED strip After finishing work, put the housing back in place, turn on the voltage, and check the correct LED lighting sequence. As you can see, connecting a transformer with your own hands is a fairly simple task.
Video: connecting LED strip to power supplies
How to make a power supply
Making your own power supply for LEDs is quite simple. For a 20-cell tape you will need:
- A 12 Volt transformer that can transmit a current of 1 A;
- Diode bridge with capacitor;
- Microcircuit KR142EN8B (or 7812), which will be necessary for the radiator (if the power supply is humming, then this is the problem of this particular part).
We connect all the devices according standard scheme and connect the homemade conductor to the tape. The unit can be assembled in an old housing from a regular mini-transformer, and the wire is hidden in it. For convenience, below is a diagram of the power supply circuit for the LED strip:
Photo - Power supply circuit diagram for LED strip 
Photo - Scheme of LED strip with block 
Photo - Connecting the LED strip to the network Price overview
Not everyone can correctly connect all parts of the circuit, so it is often more profitable to purchase a ready-made transformer. You can buy a compact and sealed power supply at any electrical goods store.
The cost of devices may vary depending on the manufacturer (China will be cheaper), or additional functionality (with remote control, motion sensors, etc.). If necessary, it is quite possible to independently modify the device to suit your taste and needs.
To connect consumers electrical energy In Russia, current standards provide for an alternating current network of 220/380V 50Hz. Since LED strips are powered from a pulsed stabilized source with a voltage of 24 or 12V, a device is needed that converts high alternating voltage to a lower one.
Successfully copes with this task power supply for LED strip (PSU) . The stability and duration of the backlight is ensured by a competent choice of power supply.
Any of the commercially available models allows operation of the backlight over a wide temperature range, smoothes out impulse noise well, and has a housing that protects internal elements from mechanical damage.
LED strip power supply circuit - power supply circuit
Connecting power to an LED strip with your own hands is not that difficult. The main thing is to strictly follow the advice outlined below.
Before purchasing one or another model of rectifier (PSU), you need to understand the question of how to connect the LED strip to the power supply.
LED strips can be connected to a power source in various ways. If the power supply circuit for LED strips is strictly followed, even one powerful device can provide operation of both one and several backlights.
For the uninterrupted operation of a circuit using one power supply, it is important to comply with the condition - the power of the unit must be at least 30% greater than the total load.
To connect a second LED strip in parallel to one unit you will need additional extension cord- a wire with a cross-section of at least 1.5 mm. Observing the polarity, one end of it is connected to the output of the power supply, the second to strip No. 2. In this case, the current will be supplied not through the tracks of the first backlight, but through the connected wire.
When the use of a large, powerful power supply is unacceptable, low-power power supplies for 12-volt LED strips are used. The connection diagram provides for the presence separate power supply for each strip of diodes. Here you will also need extension- a wire connected to a 220 V network and to a specific tape, but its cross-section may be smaller - 0.75 mm is enough. Although in this case the installation is more complex, a similar connection diagram is often used in practice, since it involves the use of small-sized power supplies.
Where to hide the LED strip power supply?
The location for the power supply is selected taking into account:
- connection diagram used;
- number of rectifier devices;
- block dimensions.
A large, powerful power supply for an LED strip in an apartment is difficult to make invisible - it is necessary to equip a special niche.
Suitable options for placing a large power supply may be a specially made hole in the furniture or a separate shelf on the wall, equipped on the non-visible side of the table.
In the case of small-sized power supplies(no more than 250x150x100 mm) everything is much simpler:
- can be hidden under the ceiling trim;
- cut a special place in the plasterboard wall;
- install the power supply in a wall niche.
Power supply for LED strip - types and features
Unsealed or open 100 W units are used to power consumers in closed residential and non-residential premises. Devices of this type are easy to identify: as a rule, they differ largest size and weight, are appropriately marked IP20.
The walls of the housing are perforated to ensure heat dissipation and are made of plastic or sheet metal. Scope of application: equipment power supply. Placement: special cabinets or hardware niches.
It should be remembered that unsealed devices are not protected from moisture, so they are not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity, for example, in bathrooms.
Semi-hermetic (all-weather) power supplies can be classified as a universal device. The devices are used both indoors and outdoors. The unit is used to power a 12V LED strip, has a degree of protection IP54 and a sheet metal housing.
The best solution today is sealed power supply for LED strip with plastic housing . The power of the device does not exceed 75 W, it is completely protected from moisture, and has small dimensions and weight. Even using two 50 W power supplies of this type to power two LED strips, they can be easily hidden from human eyes in any corner of the room. Place of application: interior lighting.
How to calculate the power of a power supply?
The power of the power supply for the LED strip depends on the load connected to it. If for small consumers a 40 W power supply is sufficient, then for more substantial designs you may need a device whose power reaches 0.5 kW.
To correctly calculate the power of a power supply, you need to know:
- number of LEDs used for illumination;
- the load (power consumption) created by 1 meter of LED strip is taken from the table;
- total length of tape ( standard size- from 1 to 5 m);
- safety factor kз = 1.2.
1. Determining the total load. To do this, multiply the power consumption of 1 meter by the meter of the LED strip.
2. For accurate calculation power supply We multiply the total load by the safety factor kз.
Pbp = Ptot × kz
Since the connection diagram contains an element such as RGB controller, the final parameter of the power supply unit is determined taking into account the power of the controller - its value usually does not exceed 5 W.
Popular power supply models for connecting LED strips
Modern industry offers consumers a wide selection of power supplies for connecting LED strips. The power supply for connecting groups of LEDs is selected taking into account the parameters of the voltage required for the backlight to operate (12 or 24 V, respectively), the required power and the place of operation.
Model PV-15.
The lowest-power switching power supply for a 12V LED strip with a power of 15 W is used to connect a strip designed for a voltage of 12 volts. It has a waterproof aluminum case and a built-in surge protector that protects against voltage surges. The estimated operating time exceeds 200 thousand hours. The best option for outdoor placement. The price of the product is 560 rubles. per piece.
Model PV-40.
The design is similar to PV-15 with increased power parameters - 40 W. Designed for connecting LED strips operating on 24/12 volts. PV-40 - LED strip unit priced within 1000 rubles.
Model LV-50.
The design feature is a sealed plastic case. Pulse block The power supply is protected against voltage surges and short circuits in the network and is intended for use in outdoor conditions.
The built-in surge filter ensures stable operation of the unit in Russian electrical networks. Operates at temperatures from minus 25 to plus 40 degrees Celsius. Operating time - more than 200 thousand hours. The price of the product is 1050 rubles.
Model LPV-100.
Medium power switching power supply - 100 W. Designed for connecting tapes with a voltage of 24/12 volts, has a sealed design and an aluminum housing. The product is characterized by protection against overvoltage, overload, short circuit. Ideal for stable operation in Russian electrical networks. Billing period operation - more than 200 thousand hours. LPV-100 is a high-quality power supply for LED strip, the price of which does not exceed 2250 rubles.
Model SUN-400.
A high-power switching power supply is an excellent solution for ensuring the operation of LED strips. Has protection against short circuits and voltage surges. The cooling principle is free air convection. Provides operation of tapes designed for 24/12 volt voltage in enclosed spaces, power - 400 W. Successfully passed performance tests in Russian electrical networks. The price of the product is 3600 rubles.
Power supplies can be used not only to connect LCD monitors, laptops and lamps. These devices can also be used. Usually, LED lighting used for decorative lighting.
What is LED strip? This is a flexible board with LEDs and resistors placed on it. It does not impose any special requirements and its length can be changed using simple scissors.
12V power supplies provide strip LEDs with the electrical energy required for the required parameters. They stabilize voltage and protect against interference and burnout. When used outdoors, the glow elements are mounted in sealed housings.
Some advantages:
- Minimum energy consumption;
- Surge filters, which makes it possible to operate in a wide variety of conditions;
Blocks rated at 24V are used to connect SMD5050 LEDs at a rate of 120 pieces per 1 meter.
Description
Switching power supply units are a small device with a housing of 180x96x38 mm.
Specifications:
- The input current is 1.5 - 2.5 amperes.
- Input power – 115 – 230 V.
- Frequency – 50 – 60 hertz.
- Operating voltage – 220 volts (our standard networks).
- Output voltage – 12 V.
- Output current – 15 A.
- Power – 180 watts.
- Safety features: overload and short circuit protection. Some types are moisture resistant.
This is one of the most common types. The size of some models differs from each other.
Here are some examples:
- 165x65x40;
- 115x80x37;
- 165x100x44;
- 255x75x45;
Other differences in some species:
- The current strength has a decent range: from 1.25 to 41 A.
- Power ranges from 1 to 1000 W.
Safety and compliance with standards is guaranteed by the manufacturer. Therefore, before purchasing, familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the equipment.
To make installation of the block easier, it is equipped with a special connecting block with holes. In addition, the blocks do not allow the wire to involuntarily be pulled out and disconnected from the block with screw terminals, thanks to which the wire is connected.
Power supplies are cooled due to natural air convection. Some of them are made with built-in fans, similar to computer coolers, which prevent the device from overheating during long-term use.
These fans allow you to increase power. The only negative is the noise, which only increases over time. If you use this type of device, be sure to clean it regularly, lubricate the rotating mechanism, and remove dust from it.
Purpose and principle of operation
The power supply or adapter is designed to connect equipment to power sources for its normal operation. The power supply for the LED strip serves as a converter of the input voltage to the required output voltage. In this case, we are talking about twelve volts.
The use of such a power supply requires certain competence. If the device is used for its intended purpose, it will not pose a threat to the health of the owner or the equipment.
Pulse adapters level out voltage surges using a special filter. Therefore, an electrical network with unstable voltage critically needs such a device. Voltage surges can not only negatively affect the operation of electrical equipment, but also damage it.
Species
Designations in the photo:
- Compact and sealed.
- Sealed in aluminum housing.
- Open.
- Compact network.
12-volt units come in two main types:
- Voltage stabilized– 12/24 volts. Twelve volt ones are used mainly to connect G4 and MR16.
- Current stabilized– constant/variable.
In addition to these differences, the following types are available:
- Sealed. Protection degree – IP66 and 67. The small case protects the device from dust and water. Has a built-in potentiometer that functions as a current adjustment. Units with low power are produced in plastic housings, while high power units are sealed in aluminum.
- Semi-hermetic. Degree of protection – IP54. Suitable for outdoor use as the adapter body is metal and moisture resistant. Power varies from 10 to 360 watts.
- Leaky. For indoor use only. They are made in a metal or plastic corrugated casing.
Since each model differs from each other in properties, characteristics and purpose, you should carefully approach the choice of device.
The power supply unit for LED strips is selected according to the following principles:
- Power, which the tape consumes.
- Voltage, necessary to power the tape.
- Protection from moisture.
Power calculation
Be sure to pay attention to the power consumption of the adapter. When calculating the data, add 25 percent to the available belt capacity. Thus, the power supply will not operate under heavy loads. This is important to do to extend durability and trouble-free operation.
Example: 1 meter of LED strip with a power of 15 watts requires a connection of 5 meters.
We carry out the following operations:
- You need to multiply 15 by 5. The output is 75 W.
- Now we add ¼ of 75. This is 18.75.
- Add to 75, we get 93.75 W. This is the minimum power of the block in our example.
Calculation of power supply for LED strip:
The average price for a 12V power adapter is 500-1000 rubles. Many older men who were once closely associated with technology take their devices to the flea market. You can buy an inexpensive, time-tested adapter from them.
How to do it yourself?
For self-made power supply you will need:
- A lot of time.
- A few details.
What we may need to assemble the LED strip power supply:
- frame;
- tape of the required length;
- pay;
- cord;
- screwdriver;
We present to your attention the assembly diagram for a 12V power supply:
Designations:
- C1 – ballast capacitor.
- C2 – anti-aliasing filter.
- VD1 – VD4 – diodes.
- VD5 – zener diode.
- R1 – R3 – resistors.
Step by step guide:
- The most the best option A transformerless power supply with a ballast capacitor will serve.
- The capacitor suppresses the mains voltage, which is then fed to a rectifier assembled on diodes. From the rectifier it goes to the smoothing filter.
- Resistors ensure fast discharge of capacitors. R1 limits the current when connected, the zener diode limits the output voltage, providing 12 volts.
- The current depends on the value of capacitor C1 for the power supply.
- You should not power the LEDs with the maximum permissible current.
Connection
Connection diagram of the power supply to the LED strip. To connect the power supply to the LED strip, we need a cord with a plug. It is important to install a switch on the cord.
We take the adapter and find 4 contacts:
- Phase.
- Zero.
- V+ (output voltage).
- COM (the tape is connected there).
- We expose two wires of the cord and connect them to phase and neutral.
- Insert the plug into the socket. When the green LED lights up, it means that the power supply is ready for use.
- Any unit designed to power LED lamps , must comply with lighting standards.
- It is not recommended to disassemble the case and try to make any changes. Re-soldering the adapter circuit is difficult and time-consuming. Even for an electronics engineer.
- Depending on the power of the power supply, several tapes can be connected to it. There is an RGB amplifier for this. It receives a signal from one tape and distributes it to others. At the same time, the synchronicity of color changes and brightness is not lost.
Attention! If you try to connect the tape directly to an outlet, it will start to smoke and, naturally, will not work after that.
