What you need for wall panels. Instructions for interior wall decoration with PVC plastic panels. Ceiling and wall panels

It is not for nothing that polyvinyl chloride has gained such wide popularity in the construction industry. A wide variety of materials are made from it, which are used in construction and decoration. Installation of PVC panels on walls and especially ceilings is a fairly common occurrence, and today every team of builders offers similar services. However, due to the simplicity of the device and installation, it is quite possible to independently install PVC slabs.

Where to start?

The first thing that sometimes receives insufficient attention is measurements and planning. It is not enough to measure the length and width of the ceiling and simply buy the required number of panels; all aspects of preliminary preparation must be taken into account. If the surface is perfectly flat, then simple gluing of slabs on the ceiling or walls will be enough for unpretentious tastes. In the case when the plans include giving the room not only aesthetic appeal, but also practicality, it is worth thinking about installing a full-fledged frame in which it is possible to hide various types of communications, for example, lighting.

Of course, it is difficult to imagine a job in which there is no need to use a tool. In this case, you will need the following:

a rotary hammer or drill with a hammer function to the delight of all neighbors during installation work,
stepladder (for working in apartments with a standard ceiling height of 2.5 meters, the optimal choice would be an inexpensive aluminum stepladder 1.8 meters high),
hacksaws for wood and metal (a hacksaw for metal is best suited for cutting PVC panels, allowing you to make the edges of the cut as smooth as possible),
tape measure and building level,
a painter's knife or shoemaker's knife (a well-sharpened steel scrap will also work; the blade should be tilted at 60 degrees, the optimal blade width is 10 centimeters),
hammer,
self-tapping screws or wallpaper nails with which PVC panels are fastened to the frame.

Finishing with PVC panels requires the mandatory use of the specified tools for work, since without them it is impossible to accurately perform the installation (the only exception is a hammer drill, which is needed to quickly level the problem surface). After selecting the tool, you should proceed to the first stage of work, marking.

Preliminary preparation and measurements

First, the markings are applied to the entire working surface. Since PVC ceiling slabs have standard sizes slats, it all depends on preference. The most popular solution is “lining” - long strips that are 10 cm wide. It is necessary to draw lines to install the profile every 400 millimeters. The first mark is made along the width of the PVC panel, starting from the lowest point on the ceiling. After this, using a building level, marks are drawn along the perimeter of the surface for attaching anchors or dowels, depending on preference, with the help of which the frame will be installed to the surface of the wall or ceiling.

Please note that the profiles of the main supporting frame are always attached perpendicular to the location of the PVC plates. Experts recommend using not only a system of marks and a level for marking, but also an ordinary thin rope for quick marking. How to make it? Simple enough. You should simply “color” the rope with colored chalk and press its ends to the surface - in this case, the marks made with chalk will remain on the wall. This method will significantly speed up the marking process, which will save time spent on preliminary work. Finishing any surface with PVC panels, be it a wall or a ceiling, begins with assembling the frame.

Frame assembly

Initially, the frame consists of profile connections made from different materials. The following types of frames are distinguished:

wooden frame,
plastic sheathing,
metal profiles,

Each variety has its own advantages and is used depending on preference.

A wooden frame is built infrequently, since such a design has more disadvantages than practical advantages. Wood is afraid of moisture and freezing, as well as drying out due to heat, for this reason the question of the need to install a wooden frame, especially in those rooms in which the influence of climate is noticeably felt (balcony or loggia, for example) is quite controversial.

If there are no contraindications, wooden beams are attached to the covering every 60 centimeters using dowels or impact screws; a lining must be used to level the placement of the boards. In general, this type of frame is inferior in its properties to similar structures made of plastic and metal.

Plastic U-shaped profiles have many advantages, among which are:

low cost,
light weight (which is especially important when carrying out installation work on the ceiling),
ease of fastening,
insensitive to moisture and heat.

Such profiles are attached quite easily. According to pre-drawn lines, every 30 centimeters, dowels or screws are installed, which are screwed in every meter. It is important to pay attention to the fact that when joining profiles, especially at an angle, it is necessary to use a hacksaw and a miter box (which is a tray for cutting boards at an angle of 45, 30 and 90 degrees). In this case, the cut will be barely noticeable, and the joints will be smooth and tightly adjacent to each other. Another advantage of the plastic sheathing is that the internal grooves form cable channels for laying communications (wiring for lighting, for example).

A metal profile frame is most suitable for constructing vertical areas and is most often used for finishing walls with plasterboard (since sheets of this material have significant weight). Due to their light weight, PVC wall panels do not require a powerful and strong frame; for this reason, preference when choosing a design is given to plastic. When using metal, the cable for lighting must be laid in corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes (PVC) to ensure fire resistance and prevent damage to the braid of power cables from the sharp edges of the metal frame.

Installation requirements

Despite the ease of working with polyvinyl chloride products, the panels also require compliance with certain requirements. Among them the following stand out:

before installation, the material must be allowed to rest for a period of time, this is especially true for those conditions when it was stored at a temperature below 10 degrees Celsius,
PVC slats are positioned perpendicular to the frame slats,
if the room humidity is high, it is necessary to make ventilation cuts in the frame,
during installation, gaps of 5 millimeters must be taken into account to take into account temperature changes of PVC coverings,

when installing coverings with a pattern, work is always carried out from the left corner to the right (this does not apply to plain coverings),
installation work cannot be carried out in those rooms whose internal temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius (that is, these PVC panels are categorically not suitable for creating interiors in steam rooms and baths),

Installation of ceiling panels

After the frame has been mounted, it is worth starting to install the PVC panels. The strips are cut along the length of the ceiling and installed in order, starting with the outermost one. The first strip is attached to the very corner, using self-tapping screws, to the transverse profiles, which form additional rigidity of the frame. The next panels are already inserted into the grooves of the previous ones, so the installation is carried out to the end.

There is a possibility that difficulties may arise during the installation of the last panel, since the material will need to be cut to width. There is another option for attaching the final panel: when it is turned over with a fastening lock in the other direction and the groove is trimmed from the side to the required length.

After the installation of all panels has been completed, it is time for the final work, namely installation ceiling plinth. It is installed quite simply: a layer is applied to the inside liquid nails, after which the plinth is pressed against the finished ceiling and held for 10 seconds for the glue to dry. After that, all that remains is to remove excess glue from the surface and the ceiling is mounted.

It is worth noting that liquid nails on moldings dry out almost instantly, so the removal of sagging should be done as quickly as possible.

PVC panels are suitable for the design of any room, since there are a huge variety of models with a wide variety of external styles, but the greatest advantage is their use for interior decoration of the bathroom and toilet due to the distinctive ability of polyvinyl chloride to resist moisture. This is a significant plus in case of flooding of the bathroom by neighbors above. The panels will withstand the load and there will be no need to make major repairs. In addition, PVC boards are easy to clean and are not susceptible to the formation of mold and bacteria, which allows them to be used for kitchen decoration. Soot and grease resulting from cooking can be easily washed off using simple products. household appliances, so the choice of such material will be correct.

Installation of PVC plates on walls

PVC wall panels allow you to quickly and without special costs give the premises a cozy interior. The installation process is not too different from similar work on installing a ceiling, and is described literally step by step:

a frame made of metal profiles is installed on the wall, previously treated with an antifungal mixture (this is due to the fact that PVC wall slabs are thick and heavy, and to hold them a more powerful frame is required than a plastic one),
then the first panel with a corner is inserted into the profile and mounted against the wall. The second and third panels are inserted into the groove at an angle and attached to the first using gluers (this is the name given to plastic brackets with jagged latches that allow you to securely fix the panel on the metal frame guides),
after that, all subsequent panels are mounted on the guides in the same way,
the last panel is inserted into the U-shaped corner and installed together with it on the frame.

After which they are carried out finishing work related to fastening corners and cornices. It is often possible that the wall should have access to electrical sockets and light switches, which will add some complexity to the installation process. In this case, the installation of boxes and laying of power cables must be done before the installation of PVC boards begins. Then, when covering with panels, it is enough to simply cut out the required size hole for the sockets.

It is important to remember the following at any stage of working with panels:

PVC material is quite fragile, so you should not apply significant external force to it when laying the panels. A strong hand press on the panel is enough to cause a crack to appear on its surface that cannot be repaired.
The panels must be carefully placed one against the other without any force. If necessary, it is allowed to use an improvised tool, for example, a stationery knife, the narrow blade of which will allow you to guide the edges plastic PVC panels.

At the moment, PVC board, which can be purchased without difficulty in almost any variation and color, is one of the most popular materials for finishing a room, both indoors and outdoors. Before purchasing, you just need to check the quality of the product by looking at the absence of transverse uneven stripes and the number of stiffeners - to make sure that the product meets the stated expectations, and then the installation of such a coating will not cause trouble, and the PVC panels themselves will last quite a long time.

Wall decoration with plastic panels is now very popular. But before deciding to choose this option, it is worth studying information about the properties of the material and the technology of its use. At first glance, you can find a lot of information about this finishing option, but often it is distorted or presented in a form that is inconvenient for perception. For this reason, you should be careful when choosing a source of information.

Plastic as a material

Wall decoration with plastic panels has its advantages and disadvantages. They must be taken into account when making the final decision. Finishing material has the following advantages:

Absolutely harmless. Many people are afraid of plastic because it is an unnatural material. Modern technologies, allowing the production of harmless products that are simpler and cheaper than the old ones. For this reason, it is extremely difficult to find dangerous material even among fakes.
The wall panels for interior decoration are very beautiful. There are many options for colors and textures. In addition, manufacturers are releasing new seamless options that are very different from the usual office panels. You can choose a wood finish, plain or colored. Photo printing is also applied to the coating.
Possibility of use in cramped conditions. Plastic panels for interior decoration are perfect for various niches and other corners of an apartment or house where it is inconvenient to work with other materials.
The panels are easily mounted together with ventilation grilles and sockets. In any color, these elements look natural and are not noticeable.
Plastic is perfect for finishing bathrooms and other wet rooms. The finishing of walls and ceilings is durable, does not require complex maintenance, and can be used at low temperatures (for example, on an uninsulated balcony).

PVC panels look pretty good for their price

The disadvantages include the following negative points:

Flammability. The material is difficult to set on fire, but when exposed to fire it maintains combustion and emits large number gases hazardous to humans.
The panels don't breathe. They completely block the movement of air through the walls, which is necessary to ensure normal ventilation. Because of this property, the type of finish is not recommended for use in the bedroom and children's room.
Insects can live in the voids of the panels. This problem is especially relevant for the southern regions.
The need to use special tools for cutting and certain skills during installation.
Decorating walls with PVC panels with your own hands requires careful preparation of the base.

The finishing can look very non-trivial!

Having considered all the advantages and disadvantages of the material, you should calmly make an informed decision about the possibility of using this type of finish.

What tools will you need?

It is worth preparing to work with PVC panels. First of all, you will need to find a special tool:

Circular saw. If you can’t find it, you can use a jigsaw. The file or disk must have fine teeth (“clean cut”). It is preferable to use a saw. The jigsaw file is highly flexible, so the cut can turn out wavy.
Jigsaw cutter with angles of 45 and 90 degrees.
Construction stapler for cladding on wooden sheathing.
Rubber mallet with a hook rule. The same tool is used for installing laminate flooring. Needed to “rip out” jammed panels. Doing this with your hands can easily damage the panel or sheathing.
A plaster spatula used to bend the finishing profile when installing the last plank. Spatula length 80-120 cm.

Also when performing work you will need:

pencil and tape measure;
building level;
square;
fastening elements (self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, clamps);
screwdriver;
perforator;
sealant;
antiseptic.

Installation of plastic panels for wall decoration

Plastic can perfectly replace wooden decorative elements and other finishing options. But it must be fastened in strict accordance with technology. Decorative panels for walls will help make your home cozy and beautiful.

The walls in the bathroom and other rooms, as well as the ceiling, are decorated with plastic panels in the following order:

preparation of the base;
marking;
lathing device;
installation of start and finish profiles;
installation of all other planks;
facing of slopes;
fixing skirting boards.

Preparing the base

Work with plastic begins with removing the old coating. To ensure an attractive finish appearance without distortions and other troubles, you will need to carefully seal all the cracks in the walls and ceilings and eliminate unevenness.

Cleaning the surface of the walls is necessary to prevent the appearance of dust, mildew and mold

Marking

Before finishing the room, it is necessary to determine the location of the frame racks. Finishing ceilings and walls with plastic panels involves marking in the following order:

Mark a point at a distance of 1-2 cm from the level of the floor or walls. A line is drawn along the perimeter through this point. For marking accuracy, use a building level.
When marking walls, the same line must be drawn under the ceiling.
From the bottom line, in increments of 40-50 cm, parallel lines are drawn to the entire height.

This marking is suitable for attaching panels vertically. The cladding is always attached perpendicular to the frame, so if it is necessary to arrange the cladding elements horizontally, vertical markings are made.

Horizontal and vertical installation types

Sheathing device

Most often, wood is used as lathing for panels for interior wall decoration. In this case, the slats must be treated in advance with an antiseptic composition to protect them from destruction. Using a puncher, holes are made along the marking lines for fasteners with a distance of 50 cm. The frame slats are secured to the wall. If it is necessary to lay wiring under the trim, this must be taken into account at this stage:

provide fastenings for wires;
check that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing.

Be sure to check the horizontality of the sheathing

When using a metal C-profile as a sheathing, you will need to additionally purchase fastening elements. They are usually sold as a set. The metal is fixed to the base with self-tapping screws in dowels. All work must be performed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

To increase the thermal insulation or sound insulation of walls, special mats can be laid between the frame slats. They are fixed depending on the type of material used. For different types Can be used both for fastening with dowels and with an adhesive composition.

Fastening the slats

The first plastic strip needs to be secured in the most illuminated and visible corner. Most often, this is the one located opposite the entrance to the room. Measurements are taken using a tape measure. The panel is cut to the required length with a special tool (usually a circular saw).

One edge of the strip is inserted into a special side molding. This element is designed to ensure mutual fastening of the panels, which are located on opposite sides of the corner. The element with the molding is applied to the corner and secured to the sheathing on the back side.

Next you need to connect the first panel to the second. To do this, a tongue-and-groove system is again used. The joint is pressed tightly and the plank is fixed to a wooden or metal frame. All subsequent elements are mounted using the same technology. To ensure maximum tightness of the joints, it is recommended to lubricate the side edges with silicone before installing the panel. When installing the last part, it is worth checking whether it is the right width. If necessary, the element is cut to width. The last panel is not secured to the sheathing. It must be snapped onto the finishing element. If necessary, all joints are treated with silicone (sealant).

Installation of panels on the frame using clamps and clips

Accessories must be installed to complete the installation. Such elements include baseboards and their caps, corner elements. The latter are purchased together with the panels and heated on top of them.

Accessories for panels will give your decoration a neat, finished look

To make holes for switches and sockets, use a sharp knife. They cut out holes of the required size.

Installation of panels with glue

If necessary, finishing elements can be fixed directly to the wall without the use of lathing. In this case, increased requirements are placed on the foundation. It will take more time to prepare it, since the surface must be perfectly flat.

Before starting work, purchase special glue. It is allowed to use liquid nails for installation. It is important to check the composition of the substance in the store. It should not contain solvents that destroy plastic elements.

The work is performed in the following order:

cleaning the base from old cladding;
treatment with antibacterial putty or a layer of primer that contains components that can protect against mold and mildew;
drying the base;
preparation of the adhesive composition in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging;
the choice of working tool is carried out depending on the consistency of the glue: roller, brush, spatula;
work begins with corner elements;
the glue is applied to a small area at a time (equal to approximately 1 panel) so that it does not have time to dry;
a corner piece is secured to which an ordinary element is mounted using grooves;
the panels are pressed against the wall with your hands for a short time, during which the adhesive solution has time to set;
install all other panels;
install decorative elements, coat the seams with silicone sealant.

In addition to installation with glue and lathing, there are several other methods that professional workers use. But they have not become widespread. In conclusion, we can give some general advice:

The panels are recommended for finishing balconies, loggias, bathrooms, hallways and living rooms. For bedrooms and children's rooms, you should pay attention to more breathable materials.
It is best to use seamless plastic in rooms with air conditioning or a forced ventilation system.
In a bedroom for adults, it is permissible to use the material for certain sections of the walls.
It is not acceptable to use the elements in the kitchen. In this case, grease and other substances will settle on the surface of the panels, which will become an excellent breeding ground for bacteria.

Plastic products have many advantages and are rightly popular in construction work. Users highlight the following positive aspects of the material:

PVC panels for walls are not made from toxic and harmful components. The absence of harmful fumes allows you to decorate the walls of residential premises.
Surfaces finished with plastic are very beautiful. Manufacturers produce a wide range of panels with a variety of patterns.
Products can be painted, covered with material, and high-quality images can be applied.
Plastic consists of cells, so it has a fairly high thermal insulation value.
Coating modules are manufactured with high precision, which allows you to quickly cover large areas.
The panels can be mounted at any angle to the ceiling - horizontally, vertically or diagonally.
All kinds of fittings look acceptable on plastic - electrical sockets and switches, ventilation grilles, etc.
Plastic tolerates frost well and does not deteriorate on open balconies for many years.
The material is used for finishing walls and ceilings in wet rooms (showers, bathrooms, swimming pools).
Plastic can be used to decorate walls made of any coating without preliminary finishing of the surface.
The plastic is easy to clean, the seams between the panels are small, and dirt does not collect there, which is appreciated in kitchens and domestic areas.

Despite numerous advantages, plastic PVC panels for walls are not considered an ideal coating. Users should be aware of the negative aspects of the material:

Before cladding, it is necessary to install a lathing on the wall, which takes a lot of time to level.
Working with the material requires patience and care; the material is processed with a special tool.
The material does not breathe, it does not have the correct ratio of moisture resistance to vapor permeability. Therefore, in some rooms (for example, bedrooms) it is not recommended to decorate the walls with this material.
The surface of the plastic glares, because of this it cannot be used in a child’s room, the child will be irritated.
In some places, the use of PVC panels is prohibited by fire services, for example, in corridors, on escape routes. The material burns poorly, but under the influence high temperature plastic emits toxic fumes.

Types of PVC panels for walls

Plastic panels are distinguished according to many parameters, but most often they are classified according to the method of decorating the front sheet and the size of the modules.

Depending on the size, plastic lining, panels and tiles are distinguished:

Plastic lining. These are long sheets rectangular shape. The panel is formed by two plates with partitions and hollow channels between them. Sample length - 3-12 m, width - 100-500 mm, thickness - 8-12 mm. Lining is used for finishing walls and ceilings. For fastening, it is recommended to lath the wall.
. They differ from lining in dimensions, the most common dimensions are 1220x2440x3.2 mm. The front side imitates tiles.
Plastic tiles. Available in square shape with dimensions from 0.30x0.30 m to 1x1 m.

The classification of panels according to the decoration of the front panel depends on the method of applying the image:

Thermal transfer pattern on the panel. It is distinguished by its bright colors and the ability to maintain its original appearance for a long time. With its help you can decorate a room in a specific style. The coating technology involves transferring a special thermal film with a pattern onto the plastic and then covering the surface with varnish, which protects the material from mechanical stress and household chemicals.
Offset drawing. To create an offset print on a panel, a special roller is used that resembles a typographic print. The image on the panel is covered with two layers of varnish.
Panel lamination. Such products are characterized by high image quality. The special film creates a three-dimensional effect and has a varied texture. The film is glued to the plastic with a special glue. After lamination, the panel's steam and moisture resistance increases. Such modules are the most durable of the entire range of plastic products.

The panels differ in the type of joint between adjacent products and can form three connection options:

Seamless panels. The most common type of material. After finishing the walls with PVC panels, the surface will be smooth, but the level of quality stretch ceiling it will not be possible to achieve - the connection point will still be visible. To obtain a high-quality seamless surface, the panels are carefully selected and their joints are checked in the store. You should also carefully make the covering sheathing. Seamless panels are available in widths of 20, 25, 30 and 33 cm.
Relief lining. It is distinguished by a relief connection between the individual modules. The material is used when there is possible deformation of the base surface, for example, when the house shrinks. The divergence of the seam between the panels is masked by the relief connection of the panels. Sheets with a width of 10, 12.5, 15, 20, 25, 33 cm are sold in the markets.
Panels with rustication. They have the properties of a seamless and embossed material. They differ from other types of panels in that instead of a groove or protrusion, there are chamfers at the ends of the sheets.

Criteria for choosing plastic panels for walls

In construction stores, the range of PVC panels is always large, so approach the purchase of goods responsibly. Pay attention to the following factors:

Before attaching PVC panels to the wall, check that the front part is free of scratches, cuts, stains and other defects.
Panels with a thick front sheet and a large number of stiffeners will be more durable. High-quality panels are heavier due to numerous stiffening ribs.
Choose sheets with even edges; their condition affects the appearance of the panel. Please note that strength and PVC panels are incompatible concepts; this material should not be used in public places.
There should be no visible marks of stiffeners or other defects on the surface of the panel.
The panels must be connected to each other tightly and securely. With a seamless connection, after joining the sheets, the gaps are barely visible.
The surface of a high-quality sheet is free of unpainted areas and has clear patterns.
A high-quality panel is expensive. Cheap panels are made from low-grade material and low-quality glue. The leaves emit toxic substances and can provoke an allergic reaction in the body.
If you have a choice, purchase products from well-known brands.
Bend the sheet so that it bends by 30-50%, and then examine the place of deformation. There are no deflections left on a high-quality panel.
Do not confuse ceiling and wall panels. The first type has lower strength; when pressed with a finger, the front sheet will easily bend. You can also distinguish panels by length: ceiling panels are produced in lengths of 6 or 12 m, wall panels - 2.7, 3 or 6 m.
Wall panels with a thickness of at least 10 mm, the thickness of ceiling panels is less.
On the market you can find PVC panels in a wide variety of colors. If it’s difficult to make a choice, buy white sheets, they look good with any color. Plastic panels are often marked with patterns that imitate a cut natural material or made as patterns.
Too contrasting designs can cause irritation over time.
Panels with drawings must be purchased with a reserve for joining the images. Expensive panels with patterns can be embossed; such samples are not recommended for use in the kitchen due to the difficulty of cleaning the surface.
Surface plastic panels can be glossy, matte or semi-gloss. The finishing option of the outer layer does not affect the quality of the material.

Technology for installing PVC panels on walls

The choice of fastening plastic panels depends on many factors - the quality of the surface finish, the weight of the panels, the purpose of the room, etc. Each fixation option has its own characteristics, but there are also general operations. These include choosing a tool and purchasing auxiliary elements.

Tools and materials for laying PVC panels on walls

Without properly selected equipment, it is impossible to obtain a high-quality surface. Stock up on the following equipment in advance:

Jigsaw or circular saw with small teeth. The saw is preferable due to the rigidity of the cutting tool. The jigsaw blade may become deformed during the cut, and the cutting line will turn out wavy.
Staple gun (construction stapler) for attaching the slab to wood sheathing.
A special rubber mallet for dismantling the panel, for pulling out the panel jammed in the grooves. Without it, you can damage the installation profile or sheathing elements.
Plaster spatula 80-120, which is used to bend the finishing profile when installing the last board.
Construction level for monitoring the position of the sheathing and panels in the vertical plane.
Drill for making mounting holes in the wall.

To simplify the installation of PVC panels on the wall, it is recommended to purchase additional profiles that will speed up the work and improve the quality of the surface:

Starting profile - is attached first and is the base level along which the panels are aligned.
Finishing profile - installed last after attaching the outermost sheet.
External corner profile - allows you to form beautiful protruding corners of the room.
Internal corner profile - installed in the inner corner of the room.
Docking profiles - used to extend a plastic sheet or to create a mounting surface on a wall for installing a mirror.

Laying plastic panels on the wall on a frame

One of the options for covering a wall with panels is to attach plastic to a frame. The lathing allows you to install the covering without leveling the walls in any room.

The basis for the plastic coating is wooden beams or metal profiles. Wooden slats are chosen with a width of 40-60 mm and a thickness of 20-25 mm. For sheathing, buy well-dried lumber a little longer than the height of the wall; it is always easier to cut off the excess than to add the missing part. It is also advisable to impregnate all wooden blocks with a water-repellent composition.

Metal profiles are sold in standard lengths, so the choice of length is limited. For sheathing, it is recommended to use a C-shaped rack profile. The material of the slats depends on the purpose of the room. For example, if stainless steel profiles are installed in the bathroom, the wood will quickly rot.

Wall covering with PVC panels is carried out as follows:

Clean the walls of old decorative coating. Inspect the surface for the presence of fungus or mold, remove the damaged surface if necessary.
Treat the wall with an antiseptic.
The placement of profiles on the wall depends on the orientation of the panels - horizontal or vertical. In a vertical orientation, the slats are first attached to the top and bottom of the walls.
The bottom rail is fixed near the floor to secure the baseboard. Then, in the corners of the wall, the walls are aligned vertically and vertical profiles are attached, while their outer surfaces should lie in the same plane with the surfaces of the already fixed slats.
Allowable gaps under the ceiling depend on the method of covering the ceiling. If the ceiling is finished with PVC panels, make the gap wide. Otherwise, attach the bars as high as possible.
When fixing the slats, it is necessary to control their position in the horizontal plane with a level and their vertical position using a plumb line. Any gaps between the profiles and the surface are sealed with wooden spacers.
The internal battens should always be perpendicular to the long side of the slabs. They are placed in increments of 40-60 cm. During installation, the bars must be parallel to the slats fixed along the perimeter of the wall, and located in the same plane as the upper and lower slats.
Using a plumb line, mark vertical lines on the wall in the corners of the room to attach the starting and finishing or corner profiles. Attach the starting (corner) profile to the vertical batten with a stapler, guided by the applied vertical mark.
Attach the horizontal starting profile to the top profile. Measure the distance between the top starting profile and the floor.
Cut the panel sheet from the blank to size.
Insert the first sheet into the groove of the starting profile.
Check the vertical position of the sheets with a level.
If the results are satisfactory, secure the panel to the sheathing with a stapler. Insert the second panel into the groove of the first sheet, slide until the seam between them disappears and secure. Check its position in the vertical plane.
Repeat the operation to lay all the panels to the end of the wall.
The last sheet is attached in a special way. First, attach the finishing profile to the sheathing. Then measure the gap between the penultimate sheet and the finishing profile and cut the extra piece along the sheet to size. To install, bend the panel slightly and place it in seats sheet and finishing profile. The last sheet is not attached and is held in place only by the profiles.
If it is necessary to finish the walls of the room along the perimeter, a corner profile is installed in the corner, attached to the wall, and then cladding of the next wall begins.

Fastening PVC panels to walls using tape

The opinion that plastic modules are attached only to the sheathing is long outdated. Under certain conditions, do-it-yourself wall finishing with PVC panels is done on soft lathing or using the adhesive method.

Installation on a soft sheathing involves the use of double-sided foam tape with a width of 60 mm and a thickness of 2-4 mm. Scotch tape is very viscous and elastic; when a load is applied, it stretches, and after removal it returns to its original form.

Laying panels on soft sheathing is done as follows:

Clean the walls from paint, wallpaper, and peeling plaster.
Level the surface with putty. Unevenness and protrusions with a depth of no more than half the thickness of the tape are allowed.
Cut the panel blanks to the height of the wall.
Draw vertical lines on the walls along which the panels will be aligned.
Glue the tape to the wrong side of the sheet, around the perimeter.
Remove the protective tape from the tape and glue the panel to the wall as quickly as possible, following the mark on the wall.
Check the verticality of the panel with a level.
Fix adjacent panels in a similar way, check that they are vertical and that there are no differences with the adjacent sheet.
After finishing the work, attach the plinth to the top and bottom of the lining. Another option is to install starter profiles instead of skirting boards.

Fixing PVC panels to walls with glue

This method is used if the wall is perfectly leveled with putty or finished with plasterboard sheets. The advantage of an adhesive connection is the absence of lathing, which allows you to maintain the size of the room.

The panels are glued as follows:

Clean the wall from the old coating. If the surface is painted with oil paint, then the coating does not need to be removed, but only primed.
Carefully level the surface into one plane using putty, layer thickness - 2-4 mm. If the base wall is poorly processed, all irregularities will appear on the panels.
Prime the surface with a primer containing an antiseptic.
Attach the starting profile to the top or bottom of the ceiling.
Clean the surface of the panel from dust.
Apply glue to the underside of the sample in wavy lines. Wait 5 minutes, then install into the starting profile and glue to the wall.
To form the corners, use ordinary 20x20 mm plastic corners without lining grooves.

The process of finishing the wall with the adhesive method is accelerated, but the glue does not hold very heavy modules. You should also not use adhesive joints in the kitchen, shower, or gym.

While working, use the following recommendations:

Bring the material into the room several hours before work, this way you can avoid deformation of the coating after installation.
It is advisable to finish the walls after finishing the ceiling and floor, this will make it easier to finish the corners of the room.
Various components can be hidden behind PVC panels; provide removable panels to access them.
Determine in advance the locations of sockets and switches and cut openings in the sheets.

How to attach PVC panels to walls - watch the video:

The use of plastic panels for renovation of premises allows you to obtain excellent results at minimal cost within a short period of time. If you understand the nuances of finishing work, you can decorate the wall yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

One of the main advantages of PVC panels is their ease of installation. Even a person far from construction and repair work can easily cope with it. The main thing is to follow the algorithm of actions and a few simple rules.

Installation methods

Glue mount

Frame mounting

Installation of plastic panels in the bathroom can be carried out by two in various ways. Firstly, they can be directly on the wall, and secondly, they can be attached to a pre-prepared frame.

In the first case, you will first have to carefully prepare the wall surface in order to ensure the tightest possible fit of the panel sheets. If the wall surface has significant unevenness, then preference is given to the second option. The disadvantage of this method is the reduction in usable area, but it makes it possible to improve heat and noise insulation and hide all communications.

Preparing for work

To decorate a bathroom with PVC panels yourself, depending on the installation option, you will need chipboard or fiberboard, slats, bars or metal profiles, and moldings. It is also worth preparing sealant and insulating materials.

The quality and durability of the cladding largely depend on the accuracy and precision of the measurements. Therefore, when installation work can't do without:

roulette;
level;
rulers;
pencil.

To secure the sheathing and sheets, adhesive, self-tapping screws, clamps or nails, a hammer, a screwdriver, a hacksaw (with a fine tooth), a construction stapler, a hammer drill and a screwdriver are used.

Calculations

To determine the amount of material, a series of simple calculations are first carried out.

When calculating the number and length of the profile, take into account that:

The sheathing elements must be positioned perpendicular to the panels. So, if the panels are planned to be mounted vertically, then parts of the sheathing are placed horizontally. And vice versa;
the distance between the slats should be from 30 to 50 cm;
additional slats are mounted around the door opening;
installation is carried out around the perimeter;
in addition to the sheathing, guides are also needed;
all non-integer numbers in calculations are rounded upward;
the number of fasteners required in a bathroom on your own depends on the length of the wall surface, at the rate of 1 element for every 50 cm. If you use clamps, 20 fasteners will be needed per 1 m2.

The number of base materials is also calculated depending on the length of the wall. To do this, the total length is divided by the width of the panels. If PVC sheets or tiles are used, their quantity is calculated per m2. Calculations near the doors are done separately.

It is equally important to correctly prepare all the components (accessories). When using corner profiles, they are purchased according to the number of corners in the bathroom. The number of internal and external corners for the plinth also depends on this indicator. The length of the floor plinth and ceiling fillet is calculated in accordance with the perimeter of the room.

5-10% is added to all calculation results (for an unsuccessful cut, overlap, etc.), so that in an emergency you don’t have to run to the store.

Glue installation method

Installing PVC panels with glue is considered the easiest and fastest way. However, for its high-quality implementation, the surface on which the polyvinyl chloride plates will be installed must be as flat as possible.

How to properly attach plastic panels in the bathroom with glue?

To begin with, the walls are cleaned of old cladding (wallpaper is removed, paint is removed, etc.). If there are bumps and depressions, it must be leveled using putty containing antibacterial substances.
After the putty has dried, a primer is applied over it. For each surface, the primers will be different: for walls covered with oil paint one, and for “clean” concrete ones – a completely different one.
Special attention When preparing materials, it is worth paying attention to glue. Conventional adhesive for the bathroom is not suitable, because due to high humidity and temperature changes, it will quickly soften and no longer hold the finish.
A good option This is where liquid nails can become, which are highly moisture resistant and reliably glue any materials.
If preparatory work The leveling and processing of the walls was carried out correctly, but gluing the sheets with your own hands, without the help of professional craftsmen, will not be difficult.
Start installation from one of the corners.

Important! Before installation, do not forget to attach the connection for the internal corners to the PVC sheet, securing it to the end on the tenon side.

The glue is diluted strictly following the instructions on the package. It is applied to the wall and to the panel itself with a roller, notched trowel or brush. At the same time, you should not coat a large section of the wall at once. After applying the adhesive, you need to wait some time (it is usually indicated on the packaging) and fix the element in the right place.

All subsequent elements are attached in exactly the same way. They must be tightly connected to each other using tongue-and-groove elements.

If, when approaching the opposite corner, the sheet cannot be installed completely, then it must be cut off with a construction knife or an ordinary stationery knife. The corner connection is attached to it from the cut side.

Installation of PVC panels on an adjacent wall surface begins with an already installed corner connection of the adjacent wall.

Frame installation

Now in more detail about how to attach plastic panels in a bathroom using the frame method.

Base assembly

Frame for walls

For the bathroom

For the ceiling

With this option for installing PVC panels, there is no need to carefully level and clean the wall. But if there are traces of mold or mildew on its surface, then the wall must be cleaned and treated with special means that will prevent the further appearance and spread of negative factors.

The frame for installing PVC strips and sheets can be made of wood, metal parts or PVC.

First, let's talk about how to install plastic panels on a wooden base, which is the most common. Before work begins, all parts of the wood frame must be treated with antibacterial compounds.

To assemble a wooden frame you will need bars with a section size of 4x4 or 4x2.5. Installation begins with securing the guides. Then the crossbars are attached (depending on the cladding option, either horizontally or vertically). To increase rigidity, additional supports can be added to the frame. A prerequisite for this is the same distance between them.

Video: Step-by-step assembly of a wooden frame for PVC panels

The first row is attached at a distance of 30-40 cm from the floor. All subsequent rows are attached with the same step. The top one is installed at the level of the future ceiling. In this case, all rows are placed perpendicular to the panel fastenings. You should ensure that all elements are located evenly and in the same plane.

Metal sheathing will cost more, but will last much longer. The material used for it is an aluminum profile. First, U-shaped profiles are installed at the top and bottom (under the ceiling and near the floor). Between them, with a step not exceeding 0.9 m, there are guides. Subsequently, PVC slats are mounted on them.

In order to save money, it is also possible to combine the first and second types of frames. In this case, its perimeter is made of metal, and the racks are made of wooden parts.

Another option for the frame is a plastic base. This is the “youngest” method, but no less fast and effective. PVC guides are equipped with special locks that snap plastic sheets or slats into place. The huge advantage of this option is that such panels can be dismantled and reassembled. Also, this frame does not require additional processing and is not susceptible to rotting or exposure to fungi and mold.

Installation of panels

The sheets are attached to the finished wooden base using self-tapping screws with press washers or clamps. You can also use a furniture stapler. They are attached to the metal frame exclusively with self-tapping screws and press washers.

After preparing the frame, but before installing the panels themselves, the wires are removed into the gap between the wall and the frame, sound and thermal insulation materials. And only after that they begin to attach the main elements in the bathroom.

The installation algorithm is approximately the same as with the adhesive method. Start from the corner. The starting sheet is secured with a stapler or screws, and a fastening shelf is inserted into the lower corner of which (its wide part should “look” towards the next element). In the same way, other panels are installed sequentially.

If even small joints form between individual sheets of finishing, they must be treated with silicone sealant. However, if all work is carried out consistently and correctly, there should be no unplanned gaps.

When answering the question about how to install plastic panels, experts or those who have already done it themselves advise:

Before installation, allow the material to “get used to the climate” of the room;
carry out all work at a temperature of no more than 20°;
before installing the panels, mark the locations of all parts and openings (pipes, valves, etc.) protruding beyond the wall plane;
ventilation holes, door openings and built-in furniture should be edged in advance with corners, into which PVC sheets will then be installed.

Wall decoration with plastic panels is widespread. After the price reduction for seamless panels, which make it possible to create a solid-looking plane, we can talk about a “plastic wave” in interior decoration.

However, there is foam on the wave: at first glance there is an abundance of information about finishing plastic, but it is often distorted, and some essential points are obscured. Therefore, when deciding the question: “Maybe we should cover the walls with plastic panels?” It doesn't hurt to deal with them with an open mind.

Plastic as is

The truth about plastic

Plastic panels are harmless

That's true. Technological chemists have long learned to produce high-quality plastics without cadmium, asbestos and other toxic and harmful impurities. Safe technologies for the production of plastics also turned out to be simpler and cheaper than before, so only conspiracy theory fanatics can be wary of counterfeits.

Plastic panels are beautiful

That's also true. The modern range of prefabricated decorative plastic coverings is wide and rich; just look at the pictures.

Plastic finishing is now “homey”

And that's true. Seamless (more precisely, apparently seamless) plastic panels allow you to get an interior that doesn’t look like an office at all, see fig.

It’s easy to make plastic “personal” and “open”

True again. You can thermally print photographic quality images onto the plastic coating, paint them, and cover them with self-adhesive tape, see the first collection of illustrations. This allows, for example, to make a living room individual with your own hands, and in the bathroom or bedroom to create the effect of a panoramic window (images can be 3D), without starting a complex, troublesome and expensive redevelopment and without giving the opportunity to peek at yourself.

Plastic is comfortable for inconveniences

True again. For any designer, a headache is all sorts of housing inconveniences: niches, corners, etc. There is little light and space in them. It often happens that, having suffered enough with the model, the author is discouraged by the question of the builders: “Listen, man, how should we do this? You can’t sharpen iron on a machine!” Plastic panels have the precision of “hardware” turned on a machine, and, working with inconveniences, the designer can apply any solutions suitable to the case, obtaining a completely acceptable final result, see fig.

Plastic makes it easy to change decor

Is it true. If you pierce the panel with a sewing needle at an angle from top to bottom, and then insert an unbent paper clip into the puncture, then such a hook will withstand from 1 to 3 kg, depending on the quality of the paper clip. 2 punctures are allowed per plastic board, i.e. A heavy oil painting on wood in a baguette frame can be hung several times. In the same way - drapery, brackets for curtains, lambrequins, etc. And if you walk along the freed puncture from bottom to top with a coffee or tea spoon, pressing it with your finger, the hole will be completely smoothed out.

Plastic meets technology

One more truth. Ventilation grilles, also plastic or metal, sockets, etc. even on the most painted plastic they look quite natural.

Plastic is resistant and durable

And it's true. In a bathroom or on a “cold” balcony, PVC lasts 10-12 years or more with minimal care. You just need to remember to clean it from time to time: dust eats into the plastic, like everything else, and the tone and pattern become “dirty.”

Myths about plastic surgery

Plastic will fit on any wall

Indeed, it seems that from the walls under the plastic it is enough to tear off the tatters of wallpaper and knock off the swollen plaster. But the sheathing still needs to be leveled! Otherwise, ugly reflections will appear, the joints of the “seamless” panels will not meet, the curvature of the baseboards will be noticeable, and in the end what will come out is what finishers call “lining.” Installing lathing on an uneven wall may turn out to be cleaner, but no less labor-intensive than replastering it. But, unlike plaster, the lathing often “floats” on an unprepared wall and again results in a “lining.”

Plastic requires no skill

Not true again. The final results shown in the pictures require mastery of subtle working techniques and special expensive tools. Attempts to make do with a hacksaw, a square and a drill end in “finishing”.

Plastic is hygienic

Completely untrue. Firstly, plastic walls do not breathe - they do not have the proper ratio of moisture resistance to vapor permeability. In the bedroom, breathing walls are a must: without them, you can’t expect healthy sleep, rest, and anything that happens in the bedroom besides sleep and rest. Therefore, the bedroom can be decorated with plastic only partially, in the form of decorative panels.

Secondly, the plastic glares and polarizes the reflected light. This immediately rules out decorating the nursery with plastic: medicine and psychology are strictly prohibited.

Finally, the plastic is really easy to clean, and the seams of the “seamless” panels are so narrow that dirt does not accumulate there. But each plastic board is a spatial thin-walled hollow structure with stiffening ribs inside. The voids in the panels are an attractive nest for small house evil spirits. In the southern regions, rich in entomofauna (insects), when dismantling the old plastic sheathing, there used to be such a splash that the red-haired fellow installer suddenly found himself sitting on the cabinet, with bulging eyes and an agape mouth, and could not explain how he had jumped in there from the spot without a running start or whatever brought him there.

Some craftsmen sometimes try to seal the ends of the boards by partially filling the grooves of the installation profiles with silicone before installation. They will be bitterly disappointed: deprived of the opportunity to freely thermally deform (see below), the boards become warped, turning into “lining.”

Plastic is not flammable

The biggest lie. Yes, it is very difficult to set PVC with filler on fire, and it is simply impossible with a match or lighter. But, once in the source of fire, it perfectly maintains the flame, while releasing a huge volume of very poisonous gases.

Therefore, if the apartment catches fire, God forbid anyone! – and with weak or moderate smoke, you feel an unbearable pain in the eyes, the “chemical” smell eats your nostrils and tears your throat, immediately stop extinguishing and run to the fresh air, leaving your goods to the mercy of the flame. And do not forget to call an ambulance immediately - the poisoning process can begin to develop in full force after a few hours, when medicine is no longer powerless.

Video: sellers about plastic

What are they silent about?

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), from which plastic panels are made, has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE). Therefore, finishing the walls with PVC panels should be done with a thermal gap of half the width of the narrow flange of the installation profile, see below, and the fastening of the boards to the sheathing should allow reversible elastic deformations in the plane of the board.

Example: from floor to ceiling – 2540 mm. The width of the narrow profile flange is 12 mm; its wall thickness is 1.5 mm. There are two profiles, on the floor and under the ceiling, so you need to take into account the double thickness of the wall, but the width of the shelf - only ONCE. We have: 2540 – 2x1.5 – 6 = 2531 mm. This is the length you need to cut the boards to.

When installing boards on a soft sheathing or on a wooden sheathing, this condition is met, but when fastening with flea screws to a metal sheathing, it is highly advisable to use thermal washers, see fig. This complicates and increases the cost of the work, but without thermal washers, in a hot, humid summer in a room without air conditioning, one or several boards at once can suddenly bounce off on their own with a bang. Such cases were observed especially often during the abnormally hot summer of 2010.

For laminate and MDF, special fastening brackets are provided for such cases - gluers, which firmly hold the board on any sheathing, allowing it at the same time to “fidget” a little along. But MDF with laminate doesn’t really expand from heat anyway, and the design of the plastic panels, unfortunately, doesn’t allow them to be secured with gluers.

Design

The design of finishing elements with PVC panels is shown in the figure.

Explanations:

Tool

Installation of PVC panels on walls requires a set of special tools:

Note: When choosing a stapler for plastic, you need to make sure that the slot through which the staples are squeezed out is located as close as possible to its toe. This will make installing the last board much easier.

Installation of plastic

In general, wall cladding with PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

Arrange the sheathing;
Install starting, finishing and guide profiles;
The first board is inserted into the lower installation profile, and then, bent in an arc, into the upper one, the small fastening shelf should be facing towards the starting profile;
With a mallet, as a rule, the board is brought into the starting profile to the place;
Attach the board to the sheathing through a large fastening shelf in one way or another;
The remaining boards are mounted in the same way, including the penultimate one;
The last board is cut from the side of the LARGE mounting shelf to the width; you need to allow for thermal expansion, see the example above;
Having bent the shelf of the finishing profile (if it is non-separable) with a spatula, insert the lower end of the last board into the groove of the installation profile and into the finishing profile; this work requires a skilled assistant, or better yet, two;
Alternately bending sections of the narrow flange of the finishing profile with spatulas, insert the board into it to the upper corner;
In the upper corner, the shelves of the finishing and mounting profiles are simultaneously bent with two spatulas, and the board is finally installed;
Also, alternately bending the shelf of the finishing profile, attach the board together with the profile to the sheathing;
install skirting boards.

Notes:

When using a special finishing profile, all the difficulties of operations 8-11 are reduced to applying and snapping its flange.

A cheap profile from all these manipulations sometimes remains bent or cracks along the edge of the corner. You can correct the defect simply - warm up the damaged area with a household hairdryer and immediately iron it with pressure with a COLD iron with a Teflon sole.

For the sake of beauty, the profiles are cut exactly to size along the wall, and then their ends are cut at 45 degrees in a miter box. An option is to fill the cracks with PVC putty or a homemade compound. For this, plastic sawdust is kneaded in dichloroethane until the dough becomes thick. Prepare in small portions as needed; the mixture is not stored.

If the sheathing was aligned carelessly, the last board will immediately show this - its edge will bend outward. The result was a “finish”.

Lathing

Lathing based on a metal profile

Made from wooden slats or metal C-profiles, see fig. Insulating mats can be placed in the cells. They are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws in dowels, through or with clamps or mustaches. The latter is more troublesome, but cheaper: all the work can be done using flea screws. Level with a plumb line and a 2 m bubble level, also see figure; Rubber or plywood scraps will be used for gaskets.

The battens are quite simple linear, without intersecting joists, with a pitch of 300-500 mm. But important condition: the perimeters of both the wall and the openings in it must be completely framed, see the sheathing diagram. There should be no hanging ends of the joists, with the exception of the window sill protrusion; a recess will have to be cut for it in the panel adjacent to it.

Video: installation of plastic panels on wooden sheathing

Slopes

– a real headache for plastic finishers. “Blunt” corners are not produced, and if they were, where would you get slopes for them with precisely maintained angles?

Do-it-yourselfers and professionals offer many ways to cover a slope with plastic, but they all boil down to making the angle of the slope straight. However, SNiP and sanitary rules clearly and unambiguously say: the slope must have the so-called. dawn of the slope, expand inward.

Meanwhile, a very simple method of decorating slopes with plastic has long been practiced, see figure:

We sew both sides of the slope up to the corner; allow an indent of half the width of the corner shelf.
We take a regular right angle and cut it along the length of the side of the slope with a margin of 40-60 mm in both directions.
We cut one of the corner flanges equally at both ends exactly along the length of the edge of the corner of the slope, pos. A.
From the angle of repose we draw a line with a pencil at 45 degrees, pos. B.
We apply a corner to the corner of the slope, press it firmly and, following the trace of the line, mark the cutting line on it, pos. B.
Use a profile cutter or garden pruner to cut off the excess.
We cut the edge of the corner from the INSIDE with a mounting knife or a shoemaker's knife-jamb to approximately 1/3 of the thickness of the material.
Apply glue or homemade dichloroethane compound to the corner from the inside.
We apply it, press it until it opens as it should, wait for it to set - it’s ready.

Soft sheathing

Installing plastic panels over a soft sheathing seems flimsy, but in fact it is precisely these sheathings, which came out of the hands of the greenest but neatest beginners, that last for 10-15 years without signs of damage. Why? The soft sheathing is made of double-sided foam tape, see fig. In terms of thermal deformation properties, it exactly matches PVC, and its adhesive layer is very viscous and elastic: it stretches behind the board and then returns it to its place.

For soft sheathing to be truly reliable, three conditions must be met:

Clear the wall of wallpaper, paint and level it with a rough, durable putty (Hercules, Prospector, etc.) to within half the thickness of the tape, 2-4 mm. Sharp small protrusions and depressions are acceptable, so puttying, which is already not difficult, is even easier.
Stock up on a high-quality finishing profile; without it, sheathing over soft sheathing cannot be done. However, see the penultimate section.
Reduce the contact time of the adhesive layer of adhesive tape with air as much as possible, up to an instant. This is something we need to talk about in more detail.

Installation of sheathing

The lathing scheme is the same as for the others. It is better to take the width of the adhesive tape from 25 mm, and best of all – from 60 mm. Technology:

Installing profiles

The principle is the same - the shortest possible contact of the “bare” tape with the air:

The long tails of the protective tape are pulled back and the strips are stuck to the “back” with ordinary, narrow and cheap stationery tape;
Apply the upper installation profile (horizontal), carefully pull out the protective tape from under it by the tail, immediately attach the profile with pressure, and an assistant supports it;
The lower installation profile is also glued;
The starting profile (vertical) is applied, the assistant holds it, and the master one by one pulls out the protective tape from under the profile, immediately pressing the profile to the tape, the operation proceeds from the bottom up so that the profile does not hang on the tape even for a short time;
The finishing profile is also installed.

Panel installation

The panels are mounted similarly to profiles, but with some subtleties.

THE BELL