Most often, people build houses from wood. The reasons may be different. Wood is an environmentally friendly material. It is cheaper to build such a house than a stone one. It maintains a normal level of humidity. For such a construction, a strip base is sufficient. But often this structure requires additional external finishing. There are a huge number of facing materials on the market. Therefore, it is recommended to thoroughly study them all in advance. Only after this can you make a choice about what to sheathe wooden house outside.
Reasons and goals
The decision to make additional cladding wooden house may be accepted for several reasons:
- Wood was used in the construction of the house, which is not very visually beautiful.
- Over time, the tree lost its attractiveness.
- The house requires additional heat and waterproofing.
- Increased fire resistance of the structure is required.
- Pests have appeared: termites, mold, mildew, etc.
To achieve these goals, there is a huge amount of different materials (cladding, insulating).
Material selection rules
When using insulating materials, it is important to maintain normal humidity in the room. To do this, there must be a decrease in vapor permeation from the inside to the outside. Thus, moisture will leave the home naturally. Neglecting this rule can lead to serious problems. The appearance of condensation between the layers will create excellent conditions for the development of fungus and mold. Destruction will begin. And in cold weather, this condensation will freeze and expand, deforming your home.
This rule only applies to wood. Other materials do not have very good vapor conductivity. There are two ways to fix this.
- The first method is to attach the cladding directly to the facade wall. In this case, the inside of the wall must be equipped with a vapor barrier material. Moisture will not penetrate into the house through it, but will be released through ventilation.
- The second way is to install a ventilated façade. This is a unique dividing layer between the internal wall of the house and the external decoration. Thanks to it, the air inside circulates freely, providing natural ventilation.
Wait until the house has completely settled before you begin tiling work. Each material from which a house is built has its own deadline:
- felled trees take at least two years to grow;
- rounded log - from 6 to 12 months;
- glued and profiled timber do not require shrinkage.
Wall preparation and vapor barrier
Foil, polyethylene and bitumen roofing felt can be used as a vapor barrier material. But most often, polyethylene film is used for vapor barrier of wooden structures. It does its job perfectly and is inexpensive.
When using polyethylene as a vapor barrier, leave a small space between the walls and this layer.
If the house is built of round logs, you need to make a slatted frame. The thickness of the slats is 20–30 mm. They need to be nailed vertically to the wall at a distance of 400–500 mm from each other. And already install polyethylene on them.
Laying vapor barrier takes place in 3 stages:
- Make small holes (diameter 200–300 m) in the slats located along the edge of the wall perimeter.
- Using nails or a construction stapler, attach the film to the frame with an overlap of 150 mm.
- Using special tape, glue all the joints of the vapor barrier, as well as the places where it connects the material to the frame.
Installation of heat and waterproofing layer
There are not so many insulation materials for wooden structures.
Table: heat and waterproofing materials
| Name | Description |
| Foam boards | Advantages:
Flaws:
|
| Penoplex | Appeared relatively recently. Manufactured using the extrusion method. Advantages:
Flaws:
|
| Mineral wool | The most popular option. Advantages:
This material has one drawback. It does not tolerate moisture at all on the surface. |
The most commonly used material is mineral wool. It should be purchased in the form of slabs. It's more convenient for work.
The installation process occurs in several stages:
- First of all, the frame is installed. To do this, boards 5 cm thick and 10 cm wide are nailed onto the vapor barrier layer. The distance between them should be 20–30 mm less than the width of the slab mineral wool. This is necessary for a tighter fit of the material to the wall surface without the use of additional fastening. Mineral wool can be laid in 2 layers. To do this, you need to make another frame so that the second layer covers the joints of the first.
- Now the waterproofing material is attached. The uneven rough side of the film should be adjacent to the mineral wool, and the smooth side should look outward. The film must be secured using a construction stapler with an overlap. And the joints and places where the material is fastened with staples must be taped with special tape.
- 5x4 cm boards are nailed onto the frame, which was made for thermal insulation. This will be the sheathing. It will create additional space for air circulation and become a frame for finishing works by finishing.
Photo gallery: thermal insulation materials
Table: what can be used to cover the outside of a house
| Name | Advantages | Flaws | Peculiarities | |
| Wood cladding | lining | Recreates the wooden essence of the house. Looks like a flat board of wood different shades. Easy to install. Environmentally friendly, durable, has good heat and sound insulation. | Susceptible to insect pests, but this problem can be solved. It is enough to treat the surface with special protective agents. Requires periodic touch-up. | - |
| imitation timber | Environmental friendliness, durability, good heat and sound insulation, low weight, reliable fastening. | Increased flammability, the need for constant maintenance. | Wood panels very similar to real timber. There is a tongue-and-groove system. Made from coniferous, hardwood and cedar. The panels range in length from 2 to 6 m, and in width from 13.5 to 19.5 cm. Their thickness varies from 2 to 3.5 cm. The panels are fastened with tongues and grooves. Their humidity is no more than 10–14%. Divided into classes:
You can also find an elite class, the cost of which is very high. |
|
| block house | Aesthetic appearance, environmental friendliness, strength, low initial humidity level, easy installation. | Low level of vapor permeability, the need for constant maintenance, lack of thermal insulation properties, burns. | This is a board made of wood, the inside of which is flat and the outside is cylindrical. Equipped with a tongue-and-groove system for easy installation. One or more longitudinal grooves are made on the inside of the board to reduce pressure on the cladding surface and for ventilation. Maximum material humidity 15%. To produce the material, you need to use special equipment to chop the log from four sides. A block house is made from the cut parts, polished and given the required dimensions. The central part of the log is used for timber and lining. The block house is made from pine, spruce, cedar, Siberian larch, linden, birch and aspen. Divided into classes:
|
|
| Siding | metal | Reliability, fire resistance, lack of fragility, ease of installation even at sub-zero temperatures, durability. | A small selection of colors, externally reminiscent of a public building. You can choose powder coated siding. There is a larger range of colors, and the paint will not come off the surface for a very long time. | For manufacturing, thin aluminum or galvanized steel is used. Covered with a decorative protective layer. Attaches in the same way as vinyl. |
| vinyl | Low price, easy to install. | Exposure to sunlight. Increased fragility in winter time year. | Polyvinyl chloride or PVC is used in production. These are thin strips (1.1–1.2 mm thick), the width of which is 20.5–25.5 cm. There is a lock on one side of the longitudinal edge, and perforation for fastening on the other. Attach it to a frame, preferably metal. During installation, the screws are loosely screwed in so as not to deform the material. | |
| PVC panels | Moisture resistance, flexibility, wide range of applications, large selection of colors, ease of installation, no need for special care. | Poor resistance to UV radiation, low impact resistance. | This finishing option is used quite widely, and not only for its intended purpose due to its low cost. | |
| High fire resistance, preservation of the original appearance for a long time, a wide variety of colors and shapes, ease of installation, protection from corrosion by a plastic coating, environmental friendliness, durability, low price. | Low noise insulation, high probability of condensation, difficulty of installation on the roof due to its large size, since it is not easy to cut the sheets. | Transversely rigid profiled steel sheet. Manufactured by cold stamping. The thicker the steel sheet, the deeper the stamping and the stronger the product itself. Thickness varies from 0.5 to 1.2 mm. A polymer or layer of zinc is applied to protect against corrosion. Currently, corrugated sheeting with a layer of zinc and a polymer coating for decoration is popular. It is made of rolled steel, so the length can be any, and the width can be from 98 to 185 cm. | ||
| Facade tiles | Moisture resistance, reliability, durability and strength, attractiveness appearance, fire resistance, color retention, ease of installation due to its low weight. | Increased fragility. | - | |
| Stone | Environmental friendliness, durability, reliability, resistance to climate change, ease of installation, unique appearance. | Very heavy weight. | - | |
| High strength, resistance to ultraviolet rays, natural color, frost resistance, a wide range of textures, waterproof. | High cost, fragility before installation. | For home finishing, professionals recommend glazed or engobed bricks, clinker. The first two will give the house an original appearance. They have a wide range of colors. The surface of the facade before facing should be without severe deformation. You need to be very careful when working, as these bricks are fragile. In addition to cladding the façade, the plinth is finished with clinker. Facade bricks are made using refractory clay. It is fired at high temperature. |
||
Photo gallery: types of facing material
The lining can be of absolutely any color. A house finished with imitation timber looks very natural. There are several types of material with their own advantages and disadvantages, one of them is a block house
A house covered with metal siding looks more like a public building. Vinyl siding looks like wood. PVC panels are not only monotonous, but also with patterns
Bright color options for corrugated sheeting allow you to choose the ideal cladding for yourself. Facade tiles have different textures. Finishing the facade of a house with natural stone looks very expensive.
Types of facade bricks
Reviews from real people
The house is good, but the wood is already starting to deteriorate in places. That’s why we thought about its good and reliable protection. Painting is definitely not an option, since the wood has never been painted. You'll have to pour eleven or even more liters of paint on these walls. Yes, and periodically painting is also not a good idea. best solution: The house is big enough. Along with finishing the facade, it is planned to completely replace the roof, since a tin roof is just “tin”!!! There is no question of any painting here. So the priority is practicality and durability, not authenticity.
http://forum.onliner.by/viewtopic.php?t=14667282
If it is metal, then I would not recommend it for a living space: 1. Metal can heat up in the summer 2. The siding itself in places where it is bent or cut can corrode. In principle, we can solve this issue by treating it with anti-corrosion from the inside, but for an office, a hangar, or a utility room, that’s fine. A wooden block house is still better suited for a home. Eco-friendly and beautiful. But more expensive. I do not agree with those who write that the block house requires constant maintenance. At my dacha the façade is being decorated with a block house. No problems in 5 years. The main thing is to process it correctly initially before covering. And under the casing.
http://forum.onliner.by/viewtopic.php?p=83009084#p83009084
Honestly, I don’t really understand. Maybe I'm wrong, but the point of panels filled with foamed polymer, in my understanding, is energy saving and as an additional option. insulation. And if you hang them on the ventilated façade, then, in fact, there will be no energy saving; the air flows calmly both inside and outside. Accordingly, does it make sense to use an essentially insulating material in the form of a purely decorative finish? But here “everyone sharpens as he wants.” I don’t claim to be the ultimate truth, I’m just expressing my doubts.
https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/270223/
Since 1996 I have been doing natural stone cladding, and not a single stone has fallen, I agree with RELIABLE, natural stone requires a structurally strong wall, although our guys also cladding insulation, but the work adds up and takes a fair amount of time.
engineer 05 Doug
https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/154141/page-2
Step-by-step instructions for cladding a wooden house with corrugated sheets with your own hands
All work on cladding a house from logs or other materials can be done independently.
How to make a choice
Profiled sheets of grade C are ideal for cladding wooden buildings. It has subtypes:
- C8 - light and durable sheets. Their light weight makes it possible to complete the cladding in the shortest possible time.
- C10 - it has a wide wave and is thicker than the previous one. Ideal for vertical cladding of building facades.
- C15 - like C10, is also a good option for cladding. In addition to all the advantages, it is galvanized and treated with polymer.
Material calculation
Calculation of the required amount of corrugated sheets implies:
- Determining the area to be covered with sheathing. The height of the facade must be multiplied by the width. This will give you the total surface area of one wall. However, not all of it will be covered with sheathing. Therefore, you need to measure the area of elements that will not be lined (windows, doors). Take similar measurements on each side of the house. All numbers found must be added.
- Finding the right amount of material. To do this, calculate the area of one sheet of corrugated sheeting. Divide the previous parameter by the size of one unit of material. Get the number of sheets you need. But always have a small supply of material.
Stages of work execution
Facade cladding takes place in several stages:
- Installation of sheathing. Sheathing of corrugated sheets is done on a metal frame with reinforced fasteners, secured with dowels. Can also be laid on wood. At this stage it is necessary to use a building level.
- Insulation fastening. Lay it in the grooves of the sheathing, secure it with disc-shaped dowels.
- Fastening of profiled sheets. Self-tapping screws are suitable for this.
- Installation of fractional elements: basement, corner, drainage and roofing.
Helpful Tips:
- Use a protective film for the insulation to prevent moisture from getting on it.
- Self-tapping screws with moisture-proof gaskets are ideal for installing the cladding.
- The originality of the cladding design can be achieved by laying corrugated sheets horizontally and vertically alternately.
- Don't forget to waterproof the foundation.
- Fix the guide profile with anchor bolts.
- Attach the racks with jumpers well to the frame profile.
Video: sheathing with corrugated sheets
Cladding the facade with a block house
Cladding a wooden house with a block house has its own characteristics
Table: required tools and materials
Material calculation
For façade cladding, pine beams 10–20 cm wide and 4–6 m long are often used. Quantity required material can be found out by calculating the total area for cladding.
Step-by-step finishing with facade bricks
When to choose a brick for cladding:
- If you need to protect low-quality and unattractive timber.
- When do you need additional thermal insulation?
- If built frame house.
Insulation
Insulation can be placed both outside the house and inside. If you choose the second option, the space of the rooms will be reduced. For this option, you should not take foam insulation. It has too many shortcomings. It is better to use basalt. In this case, a vapor barrier membrane must be placed on both sides. After this, cover the walls with clapboard or imitation timber.
To insulate the outside of the house, mineral wool or basalt material is suitable, which must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane. Then you can proceed directly to the finishing itself.
Table: calculation of the number of bricks
| Unit of measurement | Size bricks | Excluding mortar joints, pcs. | Taking into account mortar joints. pcs. |
1 m 3 masonry | 1 | 512 | 394 |
| 1,5 | 378 | 302 | |
| 2 | 242 | 200 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry of 0.5 bricks (thickness walls -12 cm) | 1 | 61 | 51 |
| 1,5 | 45 | 39 | |
| 2 | 30 | 26 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry in 1 brick (thickness walls - 25 cm) | 1 | 128 | 102 |
| 1,5 | 95 | 78 | |
| 2 | 60 | 52 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry of 1.5 bricks (thickness walls - 38 cm) | 1 | 189 | 153 |
| 1,5 | 140 | 117 | |
| 2 | 90 | 78 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry of 2 bricks (wall thickness - 51 cm) | 1 | 256 | 204 |
| 1,5 | 190 | 156 | |
| 2 | 120 | 104 | |
| 1 m 2 masonry of 2.5 bricks (wall thickness - 64 cm) | 1 | 317 | 255 |
| 1,5 | 235 | 195 | |
| 2 | 150 | 130 |
Brick finishing stages
Now you can move on to the cladding. To do this:
- Thoroughly clean the wall surfaces from excess parts and treat them with an antiseptic.
- Lay vapor barrier material.
- Make a horizontal sheathing with the distance between the slats 2 cm less than the width thermal insulation material.
- Using disc dowels, secure the insulation.
- Place another layer of vapor barrier material.
- Leave a small gap to the brick for ventilation (20–40 mm).
- Throw plumb lines from the corners of the building. This way you will monitor whether the brickwork is laid correctly. Control the process level.
- Tie the wooden wall and brickwork reinforcing mesh. To do this, one end of the reinforcement is attached to the wooden surface of the wall, and the second, without protruding, rests against the brickwork.
- Do the cladding in half a brick.
- In the first and last rows of masonry, leave small gaps (1–0.5 mm) for air circulation. The distance between them is no more than 4 m.
Video: facing with facade bricks
The variety of finishing options for wooden structures is great. Among all these types of facing materials, you can easily choose the one that suits you.
A private house built of wood cannot always be considered a finished structure, since in many cases it requires external and internal finishing of the walls. There are many different options, but not all of them are suitable for covering this type of building. In this article we will look at how you can cover a wooden house inside and outside and how best to do it yourself.
When to sheathe a wooden house
To begin with, it is worth highlighting those buildings that initially it does not make sense to sheathe the outside in any way, much less insulate them. Whatever finishing option you choose, it will not be cheap, and therefore impractical for wooden houses summer or periodic residence. As for decorating the inside of a home, this is more a matter of design and the wishes of the homeowner than a necessity. After all, wooden walls made of timber or rounded logs always look attractive.
Now let's look at cases where wooden houses are sheathed from the outside:
- there is a good-quality and strong frame available, but it is quite old, which is why the appearance of the building leaves much to be desired;
- frame buildings made of wood must be clad in any case on both sides, this is their design;
- if a wooden house built from timber or logs needs additional protection and insulation of the walls.
It is not uncommon to find log houses that have stood for more than 50 years and are ready to serve for the same amount of time. Additional cladding from the street will not only change the appearance of the home for the better, but also protect the wood from precipitation and thus extend its service life. The same protection will not interfere with walls that need insulation. Since thermal insulation is usually carried out outside, and not inside, a wooden house, the insulation needs to be hidden behind a water barrier and covered, which will be discussed later.
Advice. Exterior finishing of a wooden house that has just been erected is carried out after 1 year. The shrinkage of buildings of this type is quite significant, as a result of which the external design of the finished walls may suffer and everything will have to be redone.
Materials for external and internal finishing
Despite the wide selection of cladding materials, their list for wooden houses is somewhat limited due to various reasons. For example, it is relatively inexpensive to decorate a house using plaster, but this method is only suitable for frame buildings sheathed on the outside with OSB sheets, as shown in the diagram below. Plastering a log house or a dwelling made of timber will be problematic.
As can be seen in the diagram, the basic mineral wool insulation located inside the wall is supplemented by a layer of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene attached to sheets of OSB plywood sheathing. And only after that tinted decorative plaster is applied. But such facade decoration is rare for a wooden house; the following materials for external cladding are more common:
- vinyl siding;
- wood siding, the so-called block house;
- lining;
- complex system “ventilated facade”.
For reference. The cheapest and fastest way to cover the walls of a house is with painted corrugated sheets; this practice also takes place. But at the same time, the design of the building looks very cheap and resembles an industrial building. In addition, corrugated sheets quickly fade in the sun and lose color. Unless you buy expensive material coated with a pattern, as in the photo:
Vinyl siding is a very popular material, it is relatively inexpensive and retains its appearance for a long time, and with its help it is quite possible to sheathe a wooden house yourself. It will be more expensive to decorate the walls with other siding - imitation timber and rounded logs called “block house”.
This is a very attractive and pretty material, but it requires maintenance, just like regular wood paneling.
If we talk about what is the best way to cover a wooden house without reference to the cost of materials, then the “ventilated facade” system is beyond competition. It is a frame made of galvanized profiles, inside of which insulation is attached, and finishing elements are attached outside. Moreover, the latter can look like siding, brick or natural stone - your choice. True, the system can hardly be called cheap, and not every homeowner can handle the installation.
It is easier to solve the problem than to decorate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. For this purpose the following are most often used:
- regular and moisture-resistant drywall;
- OSB chip sheets;
- ordinary cladding boards - lining.
Drywall and OSB are an excellent basis for installing any finishing layer - various wallpapers, tiles and other materials. Moisture-resistant gypsum boards are perfect for interior cladding of a bathroom, and lining is ideal for a bathhouse built inside a house. OSB boards are not used as often inside buildings, since plasterboard is much more environmentally friendly.
A few words about the insulation materials used. It is well known that houses built of wood must “breathe”. This means that the wall material is transparent to vapor, due to which moisture from inside the premises is removed to the outside, passing through the wood. If a vapor-tight barrier is placed in their path, then moisture will begin to condense in front of it, which will lead to the gradual destruction of the fence. Therefore, the use of water-repellent polymers such as penoplex or penofol is not recommended.
The best solution for insulation when finishing a wooden house is mineral or basalt wool. It is vapor permeable and absolutely not subject to combustion.
An exception to the rule is a frame building, where a layer of mineral wool is part of the enclosing structure, but there is no main wall. Here the insulation is protected from the penetration of vapors by a film on one side and waterproofing on the other, as shown in the diagram:
Covering a wooden house with siding
This exterior finishing of the house can be done with or without insulation, as necessary. But in any case between vinyl siding and the wall must provide an air gap for ventilation. Its task is to remove moisture entering from the outside onto the diffusion membrane, which plays the role of a hydro- and wind barrier. This is why vinyl siding sheets are not attached directly to walls, no matter how smooth they are. First you need to assemble the sheathing from wooden beams, less often - from galvanized profiles.
Advice. Before covering an old log house, you should thoroughly caulk the cracks between the logs, using natural materials - felt, tow or moss.
The width of the bars for sheathing when installing external finishing without insulation should be from 3 to 5 cm to ensure an air gap. The interval between the slats is 40-50 cm. But first of all, a diffusion membrane is laid; it is capable of passing vapors, but reflecting water. The membrane sheets are laid horizontally, starting from the bottom, with an overlap of 10 cm and taped at the joints. After this, it is pressed with bars or sheathing profiles installed vertically.
Note. If you plan to install vertical siding, then the beams should be mounted horizontally. They should first be treated with an antiseptic composition.
Also, all openings – windows and entrance doors. In this case, it is better to nail wooden elements to the wall rather than screw them with self-tapping screws. The latter do not allow structures to move during shrinkage or thermal expansion. Important point: the surfaces of all bars must be strictly vertical and aligned in one plane. Now you can begin installing the siding, using the starting and other types of planks shown in the figure:
When adjusting the siding, it is important to take into account its thermal elongation, so the ends of the vinyl strips should not rest against the nests of the corner strips standing on the sides (meaning horizontal installation). The strips must be cut and inserted between the planks with a gap of 3-5 mm, and the nails must not be driven in all the way. This is why oval holes are made in the siding so that the strip can move a little. By the way, installation is carried out from the starting bar - from bottom to top.
When the length of 1 strip is not enough to cover the entire wall of a wooden house, then you need to install one or more connecting strips, placing them as aesthetically as possible. Although siding can be laid with an overlap (without a strip), such a connection looks unpleasant, and therefore it should be used as a last resort. Well, there are special vinyl planks for framing windows and doors.
If it is decided to combine the finishing process with insulation, then the work procedure also includes laying thermal insulation material. Considering its thickness (at least 100 mm, and in the northern regions up to 150 mm), it is necessary to take lathing bars of the appropriate width. Moreover, the membrane is not applied directly to the wall, but already on top of the insulation. It is secured by nailing 30 mm thick counter-lattice strips on top. Further work is carried out in the same way as described above.
Decorating a wooden house with a block house
In essence, a block house for cladding a house is the same siding, only made of wood, and the algorithm for carrying out the work is the same.
True, there are a number of differences that we will focus your attention on:
- There are no starting, corner or connecting strips here. All joints will have to be faced from the outside with shaped wooden elements;
- strips of block house are cut strictly to size, and when forming internal and external corners, the material is cut at an angle of 45° for joining;
- The panels are fastened from bottom to top using nails or special clamps. True, the latter tend to unbend and the stripes may fall out over time;
- When the boards are oriented horizontally, it is better to install them with the tenon up and the groove down.
One of the most difficult knots is the connection of the cladding in the form of an internal corner. Of course, you can ignore the resulting gap and sheathe the corner with a shaped element. But in order for the cladding of a wooden house with a block house, made by yourself, to be of high quality, it is worth cutting out an arched cutout in the adjacent part, as shown in the photo:
At the end, an antiseptic primer is applied to the finished surface, after which it is finished with several layers of varnish or paint.
Interior finishing with clapboard
This is one of the most popular methods of cladding the inside of private wooden houses, used in almost all rooms, and especially in the steam room. There are currently several types of lining available for sale:
- classical;
- block house;
- softline;
- landhouse;
- American.
The technology for covering walls inside the house is the same for all types, and work begins with installing a vapor-proof layer of film and installing the sheathing. The film is laid out with an overlap of 10 to 15 cm, after which the joints should be carefully taped with double-sided or regular tape. From above it is pressed against the wall with sheathing slats, whose thickness is 20 mm. The slats are nailed to the wall vertically (when installing the cladding horizontally) at intervals of 40-50 cm.
Important. All sheathing slats must be placed in one vertical plane using various pads or mounting wedges.
The first board is secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 40-50 mm from the floor, taking into account the subsequent installation of the plinth. It is best to fasten all subsequent planks using metal elements - clamps, placed on the previous board and nailed to the sheathing bars with nails. It is not recommended to fasten the sheathing by driving nails into the grooves of the lining.
As with the exterior cladding of a block house, all joints and corners should be lined with shaped parts or wooden plinths. After this, all that remains is to treat the wood with an antiseptic and cover it with several layers of varnish. The finishing technology is shown in more detail in the video:
Interior finishing with plasterboard
Drywall is an excellent material for rough finishing of any internal surfaces of a wooden house, including the ceiling. Also, moisture-resistant plasterboard is indispensable in rooms with high humidity - in bathrooms and dressing rooms. Subsequently, you can put on it tiles or apply liquid wallpaper. The technology here is simple: first, galvanized profiles are attached to the wall or ceiling so that their shelves are in the same plane. To strengthen the structure, jumpers made of the same profiles are placed between the vertical profiles.
Sheets of drywall are screwed to the shelves of the profiles with self-tapping screws so that their caps are flush with the surface of the plasterboard. The step between adjacent screws is 10-15 cm. Where it is impossible to screw a whole sheet, you need to accurately measure and cut off part of it. This is done with a sharpened knife or a specialized tool. When the wall is completely sewn up, the joints and heads of the screws need to be leveled with putty, which, after drying, should be rubbed with sandpaper. At this point, the surface is ready for further cladding.
Conclusion
Thanks to currently existing facing materials, it is possible to give any wooden house a presentable appearance, and even “turn” it into stone using external cladding. In addition, finishing will allow you to preserve the wood longer and increase the service life of the building as a whole. It will not be superfluous to take measures to insulate the house from the outside, which will result in lower heating costs.
You need to approach the issue of cladding a wooden house carefully, having carefully planned and thought through the entire process at the stage of developing a private building project. This priority is due to the fact that not only the presentability of the facade, but also the resistance of the building to various external influences (temperature changes, humidity, wind and harsh solar radiation) will depend on the quality of the finishing.
The modern market of construction and finishing materials is able to offer a wide range of products of various types and price categories. Often a person who has recently decided to equip his new home has many difficulties associated with the right choice cladding for a wooden house. Therefore, it is important to know the basic parameters that finishing materials must comply with.
Selection of finishing material
Modern construction technologies provide us with a fairly large range of finishing materials that meet all the necessary requirements. However, each of these materials has its own characteristics in terms of both the decorative design of the house and its immediate functional characteristics. It should be noted that, due to their specific nature, not all existing materials are suitable for finishing wooden buildings. Let's consider the most optimal cladding options.
Wooden lining
Wood lining allows you to preserve the natural and natural appearance of the house, while significantly improving its external design and functional characteristics. It is a flat board that is easily mounted and joined to adjacent ones in the longitudinal direction using special spikes.
Note! This material is absolutely environmentally friendly, high strength, and also provides an excellent level of temperature and acoustic insulation.
The main disadvantage of wooden lining is its relative vulnerability to insects and rodents. This problem is partially solved by treating the surface with special protective agents. The second disadvantage of the material is fading, so a house with this finish should be painted approximately every three years.
GOST 8242-88. Profile parts made of wood and wood materials for construction. Technical conditions. File for download.
Prices for wooden lining
Wooden lining
Block house
In fact, a block house is a type of wooden lining. It is made only from coniferous trees. The main difference between this finish is the shape of its elements - this material imitates cylindrical logs. The internal surface of the block house is flat, which simplifies the installation process using the tongue-and-groove technology. Unlike ordinary wooden lining, a block house has better protection against weather conditions and insects. However, it should be noted that the price of this material is significantly higher, which, of course, is its main disadvantage.
finishing the facade of a wooden house with a block house
Block house prices
Block house
Vinyl siding
This material has excellent resistance to high positive temperatures. It practically does not deform and has a low coefficient of thermal expansion. In addition, vinyl siding is easy to maintain, easy to clean, and does not require periodic repainting. The available color range is so wide that anyone can choose a shade to their liking. Vinyl panels can be installed not only using self-tapping screws, but also using regular nails.
Vinyl siding - technical specifications
But even such a functional material has its drawbacks. It is intended for use in countries with temperate and warm climates, so it does not tolerate extreme cold well. The strength of the material is also low; vinyl panels require quite careful handling. In addition, when choosing this type of siding, keep in mind that when exposed to direct sunlight, dark-colored panels can noticeably fade within a couple of years.
Metal siding
This finishing material, in comparison with vinyl, does not have a number of key disadvantages. First of all, it is much more protected from fading in the sun. This allows you to safely use siding in darker colors without the risk of getting a faded facade on the sunny side of the house in two or three years. In addition, even at very low temperatures the metal does not lose its strength and wear resistance.
There are three main disadvantages of metal siding:
- susceptibility to corrosion in case of violation of the outer protective layer;
- vulnerability to impact loads and the possibility of profile deformation;
- high coefficient of thermal conductivity (metal quickly heats up and cools down).
Siding prices
PVC panels
Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are identical in characteristics to vinyl siding, since they represent one of its varieties. However, in terms of creating original design solutions, PVC elements give builders greater opportunities. Such panels allow you to create high-quality imitation of stone, brick and marble surfaces, and are also easily combined with standard vinyl siding, which allows you to give building facades a unique and exclusive look.
Prices for PVC cladding panels
Facing PVC panels
Preparatory work
The main part of the preparation for the process of insulation and cladding of a wooden building consists of sanitizing its walls using special chemicals designed to protect wood from infection by fungus, harmful insects and rodents. In addition, it is mandatory to lay a special vapor barrier layer between the internal walls and the external thermal insulation layer.
As a rule, it is:
- polyethylene;
- aluminum foil;
- bitumen roofing felt;
- vapor barrier made of special materials.
The most optimal price/quality ratio is polyethylene, since it can significantly reduce the financial costs of covering a house.
Installing a vapor barrier involves maintaining a small air gap between it and the wall of the building. Therefore, if the walls are flat on the outside, before laying the film, a frame should be built on them from slats about 3 centimeters thick, nailing them in increments of about half a meter. After this, special ventilation holes must be made in the slats in all four directions and proceed directly to the installation of the vapor barrier. The film is nailed to the slats or round logs of the wall with nails or a construction stapler with an overlap at intervals of about 15 centimeters. Upon completion this stage The joints and placement of fasteners must be sealed with special construction tape.
Selection of thermal insulation material
After successful completion of all preparatory work, you can begin to create a thermal insulation layer of the sheathing. Due to the specificity of a material such as wood, the best choice would be to use mineral wool slabs. However, various options are possible.
Table No. 1. Materials for insulating the facade of a wooden house.
| Material | Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|---|
| - excellent thermal insulation performance; - ease of installation; - protection from pests. | - poor air permeability, which leads to wood rotting; - not fire resistant; - is not an environmentally friendly material. |
| - excellent thermal insulation; - resistant to fire; - protected from the influence of microbes and pests. | - vapor-tight, poorly ventilated. - difficult to cut and install. |
| - well ventilated; - retains heat perfectly; - easy to install; - environmentally friendly; - resistant to fire. | The ingress of moisture if the installation technology is violated leads to a sharp decrease in insulating properties. |
It should be noted that polystyrene foam and penoplex are used extremely rarely for insulating wooden houses, so it is recommended to opt for mineral wool.
Prices for mineral wool
Features of the process of thermal and waterproofing of wooden houses
A wooden frame made of vertically nailed boards is mounted on top of the previously installed vapor barrier layer. It is optimal to use a board 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick. The frame elements must be positioned in such a way that the distance between them is 2 centimeters less than the width of the mineral slabs. This will allow for a tighter fit of the insulating material without the use of additional fasteners.
The next stage of covering a wooden house is the installation of a waterproofing film on top of the insulation layer. Pay attention to the correct orientation of the film in relation to the mineral wool blocks: the rough surface should be directed towards the insulation, and the smooth surface should be directed outwards. As at the stage of work on installing a vapor barrier, fastening occurs using a construction stapler with an overlap, followed by gluing the staples and joints with tape.
When the waterproofing is installed, it is necessary to nail another layer of boards on top of the previously created frame, on which the external finishing elements will be placed at the final stage. The recommended wood thickness is 4 cm with a width of 5 cm.
Prices for windproof membranes
Windproof membrane
Carrying out external finishing works
External work is the final stage of finishing a house, which requires special care and a thorough approach. Not only the aesthetics of the facade, but also the functionality of the previously created insulating layers will largely depend on the quality of installation of the external cladding elements.
Installation of block house and wooden lining
The process of securing wooden lining is carried out as follows.
Table No. 2. Cladding the facade with clapboard.
| Steps, illustrations | Description of actions |
|---|---|
| Having prepared and cut the boards to the required length, they are mounted on the frame. Sheathing should be done in the direction from bottom to top, from the corner of the building. |
| The starting board is installed and nailed (or fixed with special fasteners), with the tenon facing down. It must be positioned strictly parallel to the ground, so a level must be used to check the result. If everything is done correctly, you can proceed to the next step. Otherwise, the board must first be leveled. |
| The next board is inserted into the groove of the previous one. In order for the boards to fit tightly together, the top one needs to be hammered into the groove of the bottom one using a special wooden hammer. |
| After joining the boards, the second one is fixed to the frame in the same way as the first. |
| All subsequent boards are attached using a similar algorithm. |
| After installation is completed, you need to start decorating the corners of the building. To do this, two boards are vertically attached to them so that one overlaps the other. Window trims are designed in the same way. |
Installation of vinyl and metal siding
A general vinyl siding installation scenario includes:
- installation on the frame of the starting bar;
- installation of corners and H-shaped connecting strips;
- fastening and installation of siding panels;
- installation of the finishing strip and fixation of the final tier.
The starting strip is fixed around the entire perimeter of the building or that part of it that will be sheathed with vinyl. Since the plank will be covered from above by a row of panels, there are no special requirements for it: you can use connections from scraps and even a strip of a different color. The initial stage is the most important, so it is worth approaching it thoroughly, because it will be quite difficult to correct the slightest imbalance in the event of an error.
- First, a nail is driven in at the bottom corner of the outer frame of the building and a thread is pulled along the wall, which should then be used as a guide. Note that the distance from the ground to the thread should be equal to the width of the starting strip.
- Next, having secured the thread at the second corner, it is placed in the correct position using a level. The result should be a straight line strictly parallel to the ground.
- Using chalk or a pencil, draw a straight line, for which the thread is used as a guide. It will mark the place where the starting strip will be fixed.
- The plank is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.
We draw your attention to the fact that you need to check the correct installation of the panels with a level as often as possible. It is advisable to do this before starting the installation of every third row of siding.
Fastening the vertical corner strips must begin before installing the main panels, since it is in them that all rows of siding are installed. When starting this stage of finishing work, you should know some of the features of this process.
- The corner bar should be located at a height of 0.5-0.7 cm from the ground. This is done so that during thermal expansion the plank does not rest against the foundation and does not become deformed.
- The corner must be secured with self-tapping screws from top to bottom. In this case, pay attention to the fact that the first fastener is made at the top point of the hole, and all subsequent ones - in the center. This approach makes it possible to ensure that the sheathing material expands only downwards and to the sides.
- The bottom edge of the vertical corner strip must be cut to the width of the starting strip. The goal, as in previous cases, is the same - to avoid the consequences of expansion of the material when heated.
Final result
The flexibility of the corners of vinyl and metal siding makes it easy to use these materials in the process of finishing obtuse and sharp corners of buildings. To cover an obtuse angle, the profile is pressed down, and when working with an acute angle, it is narrowed.
Installation and fastening of the H-profile, which is used for horizontal joining of sheathing elements, is similar to the process of installing corner strips. In this case, an important rule should be observed: the starting strips must be adjacent to the profile, and not vice versa. In addition, when covering with siding, you can do without the H-profile altogether if you arrange the strips overlapping.
The process of installing rows of siding panels occurs according to the following algorithm.
- The first strip is inserted into the grooves of the corner or H-profile, after which it is snapped into the starting lock.
- Fastening to the frame should be done using self-tapping screws exactly in the center of the nail holes. Remember that you cannot screw the siding tightly; you need to leave free space for thermal expansion.
- All subsequent tiers, except the top one, are mounted in the same way.
At the final stage of wall cladding, the top plank is mounted, after which the distance from it to the lock of the penultimate tier is measured. Next, the finishing panel is bent so that its width corresponds to the measured distance, and inserted into the lock.
The process of external cladding with PVC panels is essentially similar to the installation of siding trim discussed above. It uses an identical system of locks and clutches, which may vary only slightly depending on the manufacturer of materials.
Let's hope that our instructions and tips for finishing wooden houses helped you clarify the understanding of the features of this process and facilitated the implementation of your plans and creative ideas.
Video - Siding a wooden house
It is a facade covering of the walls of a building, consisting of panels laid on a sheathing.
The range of panels is varied: they can be made of various materials and have a variety of shapes, textures and colors.
Installation of siding is quite simple, its operational period can reach fifty years.
In this article you will learn how you can cover the outside of a house other than siding.
The popularity of siding cladding is primarily associated with its characteristics, which are inherent in this type of material. Houses covered with siding have an aesthetically attractive and very neat appearance.
Distinctive characteristics of siding are:
- Durability of the material;
- large assortment;
- variety of materials (wood, vinyl, metal);
- ease of care;
- the presence of an air gap between the wall of the house and the cladding prevents the formation of mold or mildew;
- quite easy to install;
- UV resistant;
- frost-resistant;
- waterproof;
- has resistance to mechanical damage.
quite fragile at subzero temperatures, flammable and quite flammable.
Requires care during installation, since even with a slight bend the material cannot be restored: the panel must be replaced.
short-lived.
Despite the presence of shortcomings, siding still has much more advantages, which determines the rapidly growing interest in this type of cladding.
Siding analogues
In addition to siding panels, you can also clad your house with other materials that are no less common on the construction market.
These include:
- decorative plaster;
- porcelain stoneware;
- sandwich panels;
- natural and artificial stone;
- tree;
- brick.
Each house cladding option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Before choosing a cladding option, you should be guided not only by the aesthetic appeal of the material, but also by its technical characteristics.
Decorative plaster
Decorative plaster is a budget material, so it is widely used.
Plaster can be non-aqueous or water-free. Popular is mineral plaster, which is made on the basis of cement and additional components.
Decorative plaster can be polymer, silicone or silicate.
ATTENTION!
The material is presented in the form of a dry mixture, and for application this mixture must be diluted with water. Various colors and admixtures can be added to the plaster mixture to achieve the desired color and effect.
The advantages of decorative plaster are:
- no toxic fumes;
- high adhesive ability;
- long shelf life of the dry mixture;
- no special care required;
- ease of manufacture and application;
- does not absorb dirt;
- a wide variety of colors and textures;
- the vapor permeability of the material ensures a comfortable microclimate in the room;
- resistance to temperature fluctuations;
- good sound insulation and heat insulation properties.
The plaster perfectly withstands atmospheric and mechanical influences.
Decorative plaster has disadvantages, but they are not decisive when choosing cladding:
- in the absence of a reinforcing mesh, the plaster is susceptible to chips and cracks;
- repair work must be carried out at temperatures above +5° C;
- the cost of decorative plaster is much higher than usual.
When using decorative plaster, you should follow the recommendations for its application.
When creating a textured relief, professionalism and a lot of time are required.
Decorative plaster
Porcelain tiles
Porcelain tile is a compressed and fired clay mixture with the addition of quartz, feldspar and natural-based dyes.
The main quality of the material is strength.
Porcelain tiles are made in the form of slabs of various thicknesses, textures and colors. It has properties that are not inferior to natural stone.
The main indicator of the color, structure and texture of a material is its composition, which includes manganese, chromium, iron, zirconium or cobalt salt. The surface can be matte, polished, embossed, polished or glazed.
The features of porcelain stoneware are:
- high strength;
- durability;
- independence from weather changes;
- environmental friendliness;
- no fading;
- soundproofing;
- thermal insulation;
- fire safety and protection of walls from fire;
- resistance to microorganisms;
- ease of installation;
- a ventilated façade ensures a comfortable microclimate.
The aesthetic appearance of a porcelain stoneware building is ensured by the textured coloring of the material., it is easy to maintain and simple to repair.
The disadvantages of porcelain stoneware are the heavy weight of the slabs, which requires a solid foundation for the building and load-bearing walls and high cost.
Porcelain tiles
Sandwich panel
Sandwich panels are a thin aluminum sheet with a thermal insulation layer. They are used for finishing office, administrative, sports and socially significant facilities.
The panels are available in glossy, matte, lacquered color coatings, and also treated with powder or polymer mixtures.
The advantages of sandwich panels are:
- environmental friendliness;
- soundproofing;
- good thermal protection;
- light weight;
- resistance to corrosion and rotting;
- ease of installation;
- durability;
- low cost.
Sandwich panels are easy to install and the structure itself is not heavy, which does not require additional reinforcement of the walls.
- the possibility of having fire hazardous insulation in the panels;
- limited assortment;
- During installation, the joint areas must be covered with a special sealing tape.
CAREFULLY!
The installation of sandwich panels should be entrusted to professionals, since minor errors can reduce the thermal insulation qualities of the cladding.
Particular attention should be paid to the places where the slabs are connected.
Sandwich panel
Natural and artificial stone
Facade stone can be natural, which is classified by species, and artificial, which is an imitation of natural rock or organic mineral.
Natural stone
There are several types of stone cladding for masonry:
- “from the die”;
- "Castle";
- "Plateau";
- "Shahriar";
- "Assol";
- "Rondo".
The texture of natural stone can be granite, marble, limestone, slate, sand.
The advantage of natural stone cladding is durability and strength. The material is environmentally friendly, frost-resistant and fireproof.
Natural stone cladding requires its treatment with protective agents to prevent the formation of salts on its surface.
The disadvantage of natural stone cladding is its cost and heaviness.
Natural stone
Artificial stone
It is produced by mixing polymer and mineral components, which are poured into molds and hardened under a brick press.
Happens:
- clinker;
- concrete;
- architectural;
- polymer sand;
- resin based;
- ceramic.
Artificial stone has similar characteristics to natural material, but is much lighter.
Compared to natural stone artificial resistance to external influences is much less, and therefore the service life is reduced.
Artificial stone
Cassette facade
Cassette facades are cladding material in the form of slabs. Cassettes can be composite or metal. The design of the structure is worked out by computer, based on the shape, size of the building and the material of the cassettes.
Small cassettes are made from aluminum. For large forms, composite materials are used.
Cassettes differ in color, size and texture.
Positive characteristics of a cassette facade:
- strength;
- resistance to atmospheric and mechanical influences;
- resistant to corrosion;
- ease of construction;
A high degree of decorativeness provides individuality to any building equipped with cassettes.
A significant disadvantage of this type of façade improvement is its high cost.
Cassette facade
Tree
Wood is used as cladding to give the house a natural look.
Can be used under wood modern views cladding:
- lining;
- block house;
- facade board (planken);
- imitation timber.
The lining is a solid board. Has different quality classes. It is lightweight, accessible and low cost.
Block house is a high-strength material that is a covering in the form of timber. Classified by color and texture.
Facade board is a profile material resembling siding panels. The peculiarity of the installation is the technology of the permissible distance between the boards to ensure ventilation.
Imitation timber looks like a board. Mounted using tongue-and-groove technology.
The advantages of wood are environmental friendliness, non-toxicity and good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.
A significant disadvantage of wood is its susceptibility to rotting and fragility. However, with regular treatment of a wooden facade, its service life increases significantly.
Brick
The brickwork that is used to clad the building is designed to give the building strength and protect the internal load-bearing wall.
The structure of facing bricks can be:
- ceramic;
- clinker;
- silicate;
- hyper-hyped.
Based on the front surface, bricks are classified into:
- smooth;
- raised;
- glazed;
- engobed.
Brickwork can be of different colors, and the material itself differs not only in texture and composition, but also in color.
The main advantages of brick cladding are strength, resistance to external influences, and protection of the house.
In addition, the brick has:
- fire resistance;
- environmental friendliness;
- frost resistance and low thermal conductivity.
The disadvantage of brick cladding is its significant weight. In addition, the price of bricks is quite high.
Conclusion
Thus, quite a lot of alternative cladding options, in addition to siding panels, can be used when finishing the facade. You can determine what exactly is suitable in a particular case, based on the price, characteristics of the material, the ability to install it yourself, as well as in accordance with design ideas.
Useful video
In this video we will look at all analogues of siding:
Country houses and cottages are usually built from wood, concrete or brick, which have insufficient resistance to exposure environment. As a result, new houses very quickly become old and unattractive. Therefore, in order to protect the structure from precipitation, wind and other weather conditions, the building is usually additionally finished with other building materials. And the first question that arises is: what is cheaper to sheathe the outside of a house without saving on the quality of finishing?
Basic building materials for house cladding
Today there is a wide variety of different building materials that are applicable for cladding buildings. And every year something new appears. Each building material has its pros and cons, but generally they are of good quality and durability. Therefore, one of the main consumer characteristics is the price of the product, and the question of how cheap it is to sheathe the outside of a house is of paramount importance when choosing a material.
For the maximum cost per square meter, we will conventionally take 1000 rubles, which is quite affordable for most residents of our country. Of course, the definitions of “cheap and expensive” are different for everyone. But provided that the cost of facing the building with stone or brick costs at least 3,000 rubles. for 1 sq. m (material cost plus labor costs), price 1000 rub. seems acceptable enough.
clapboard, block house and other wood materials
Thanks to the fashion for naturalness and naturalness, houses made of lumber have become especially popular today. The excellent characteristics of such a structure are significantly spoiled by one serious drawback. Wood is subject to rapid destruction from environmental influences and requires mandatory protection. Therefore, it is not enough to build it, it is necessary to additionally protect it.
There is another side to the issue. Not every owner of a country plot can afford to build new home or a cottage to replace an old building. Therefore, it is necessary to bring the building that is already available into a decent form. And the question immediately arises: how to sheathe the outside of an old wooden house cheaply and extend the structure.
Strange as it may sound, it is better to protect a wooden house with lumber, that is, the same wood. Therefore, such materials as block house (wooden siding under a log), lining and others are perfect as cladding for such buildings. These lumber are treated during production with all the necessary means to prevent rotting and destruction of the wood.
At the same time, the cost of such materials is quite affordable; a Ukrainian or Russian-made block house can be purchased at a price of 350-700 rubles. for square meter, lining for external work - 400-1000 rubles. The cost of imported building materials, of course, is somewhat higher.
It is worth considering other options, the cheaper it is to sheathe the outside of a wooden house. As well as other buildings made of bricks, concrete blocks and other building materials.
Facade thermal panels
Depending on the material from which the building is built, as well as the requirements for heat and sound insulation, as a rule, they choose how to cover the outside of the house cheaply (the photo below demonstrates this option).
If a building made of wood retains heat well, then a house made of brick or concrete has very cold walls. Therefore, for its cladding it is preferable to choose materials with good thermal insulation. The best option in this case are thermal panels consisting of polyurethane and ceramics. Today, Russian manufacturers have established the production of thermal panels quite well, so the cost of this material is quite reasonable. If the cost of cladding from foreign companies varies between 1600-2500 rubles. for 1 sq. m, then domestically produced panels can be purchased for 900-1300 rubles per square.
Fiber cement panels
For stone buildings one more good option Fiber cement panels are a cheap way to sheathe the outside. It's relative new material, the production of which has already been launched by Russian manufacturers, and they predict a great future for it. Excellent strength characteristics and ease of installation make this material especially attractive. The cost of imported material is 1600-2000 rubles. for 1 sq. m, while the domestic analogue can be purchased for 700-900 rubles, without losing quality.
Fiber cement panels are highly durable, reliable and resistant to changing weather conditions. The only drawback is their rather significant weight, so they are practically not used for finishing wooden or panel houses.
Vinyl or metal siding
We choose further, the cheaper it is to sheathe the outside of the house. It is also convenient and profitable to decorate a brick or concrete building with siding. In addition, due to its light weight, this building material can also be used for cladding wooden buildings.
Both types of siding have their advantages and disadvantages. withstands greater temperature differences, is more durable and reliable, but strongly removes heat from the walls of the building. Although vinyl material does not heat, it does not cool either.
At the same time, the cost different types does not differ much: the price of metal siding is about 100-195 rubles, vinyl siding - 190-200 rubles. per linear meter. However, when covering a large building, this relatively minor difference can result in a significant amount.
Sheathing with corrugated sheets
Another option, the cheaper it is to sheathe the outside of a house, is corrugated sheeting. You probably can’t imagine a more inexpensive material. The price of this building material varies from 160 rubles. up to 350 rub. per linear meter depending on the region and brand of sheet. It should be taken into account that, as a rule, a profiled sheet with small stiffeners is selected. One of the disadvantages of this material is its poor thermal conductivity, which can be compensated for by additional thermal insulation. Just like siding, corrugated sheeting is attached to the frame, and the sheathing process is much faster due to the larger area of the attached sheet. Installation of corrugated sheeting does not require special knowledge and skills, so you can cover a house with this material yourself, even alone, saving on hiring professional builders.
Both siding and corrugated sheeting can be used for finishing houses made of timber or logs, as well as panel houses.
Today, these are probably the most common materials that can be purchased at a reasonable price. But thanks to the rapid development of industry, who knows what the building materials market will offer us tomorrow?
