Despite a number of advantages inherent in wooden houses, they also have a very serious drawback - the ability to quickly ignite and burn. Moreover, a fire can begin not only due to improper operation of the stove and other heating devices, but also due to improper installation of electrical wiring, neglect when laying the rules of the PUE.
For correct design, calculations and safe installation of electrical wiring, a technical document has been developed - "Electrical Installation Rules" (abbreviated as PUE).
How not to lay wiring
There is no need to rely too much on the quality of cable insulation, because many processes take place in the structures of cable channels, which cannot be foreseen in advance:
- temperature changes;
- dust accumulation;
- fluctuations in humidity;
- insulation microstrains.
With increased loads on the network, there is a high probability of a breakdown between the wires stretched in parallel and, in the absence of their fencing from flammable bases, a fire is inevitable.
According to clause 7.1.38 of the PUE, hidden electrical wiring in a log house should not be laid on wooden structures, laying wires in corrugations, plastic boxes is prohibited.
From elevated temperature when burning hidden wiring, even corrugated sleeves are not able to save, since their walls do not have the proper thickness and are not designed to withstand the impact high temperatures... The main useful characteristic, inherent in channels, is considered their ability to withstand a short circuit without burning out in the period of time required for the natural attenuation of the arc.
To the full extent, this property is inherent only in pipes and boxes made of steel and recommended for the device of hidden wiring in wooden buildings.
Correct wiring
There are many ways to lay hidden wiring in wooden houses, but only a few can be attributed to the correct and corresponding to all the requirements of the PUE. Both in the design process and installation, first of all, you need to follow the fire safety requirements.
Hidden electrical wiring in a house made of rounded logs is arranged in special channels made of non-burning materials that localize a possible fire inside themselves. At the same time, the aesthetic qualities and ideas of the designer, the cost of materials and production of work must be moved to a secondary level.
The best materials for laying wires hidden in the voids of wooden structures of ceilings and walls are steel boxes and metal pipes. When using non-combustible PVC materials (mounting boxes or corrugated pipes), on each side of them, it is necessary to provide for the installation of non-combustible and non-heat-conducting gaskets made of:
- concrete;
- alabaster;
- cement plaster.
The thickness of the strip is calculated based on the required wiring specifications.
The most reliable method to make the installation of wiring in accordance with the recommendations of the PUE is considered to be laying it in steel or copper pipes and boxes. Copper pipes are easily bent without the use of any special fixtures and tools, which is important if branched electrical wiring is required.
The use of steel pipes is a little more difficult and requires highly skilled workers, especially when replacing wiring in small lengths. The sharpened edges of the boxes are capable of deforming the insulation of the wires, therefore, they must be cut only with a specialized tool.
Track selection
The selection and subsequent outline of the wiring line should be carried out strictly in accordance with the requirements of the PUE. The number of turns and bends must be taken to be minimal, and at points where, due to the architectural features of the building, laying the route causes difficulties, it is necessary to install junction boxes.
When installing boxes, it is forbidden to cover them under any decorative elements that impede open access for maintenance during operation, inspection or measurements.
Pipes for electrical wiring are buried in order not to violate the strength and bearing properties of the structural elements of the building. The cross-section of the pipes and the thickness of their walls are selected based on the characteristics of the cable. The wire placed in the pipe should occupy less than 40% of the total internal volume and stretch without problems over the entire length of the section. When laying several cables in a pipe at once, their total volume should also be less than 40% of the inner section of the pipe.
Before laying the cable, the insulation resistance must be calculated in advance. This procedure is carried out in order to determine the compliance of the wire with the TU requirements, to identify possible deformations of the insulation during transportation and storage, and to perform preparatory work.
Wire selection
After developing the circuit and marking each node, you should decide on the brand of the wire used directly for laying. In wooden buildings, it is recommended to use cables with the following markings:
- VVGng (A) or VVGng-P (A);
- VVGngLS, VVGng-PLS;
Solid copper wire (containing up to five cores) marked VVGng (A) or VVGng-P (A) is double insulated. Internal insulation is made of PVC, with each core painted in different colour, is isolated separately, which greatly facilitates the installation of sockets, switches, lighting devices. Outside, the cable is covered with flexible composite plastic insulation, which allows it to be used in the temperature range from +50 to -50 ° C.
The characteristics of the wire of the VVGng LS, VVGng-P LS brands are fully consistent with the previous brand, the difference lies in the absence of emission of harmful substances (chlorine-hydrogen) when heated.
NYM cable is manufactured in accordance with GOST 22483 and has three insulating layers. The cores of the wire are first insulated separately, then the bundle of cores is placed in a composite material, and then assembled into a sheath made of non-combustible PVC.
Location of sockets and switches
At the points of the future installation of switches and sockets using special equipment, sockets should be drilled, where metal boxes will subsequently be mounted. Such boxes, as well as the junction boxes, are mounted according to the appropriate technology, which provides for the production of a number of mandatory works, as a result of which a high-quality connection of the box with the pipe should be ensured, the reliability of contacts between all elements.
The contact is also important for providing grounding. If the continuity of the circuit is ensured during the installation of the electrical wiring, then grounding is allowed only in the switchboard.
Of the several methods for attaching boxes to a pipe, welding and brazing are the most reliable. These methods provide maximum contact reliability, complete corrosion protection and resistance to mechanical stress.
If copper pipes are used to lead the wire to the outlet, then their open edges, brought into the box, must be flared. If steel pipes are installed, then the connection to the box is carried out by means of nuts, for which a thread is cut in the pipe heads. In order to ensure maximum tightness of screwing, the nuts are cleaned of traces of corrosion and securely fixed.
Technological and junction boxes for mounting sockets and switches must meet the requirements of the IP-54 class, in accordance with which protection against dust and moisture penetration into an open box is guaranteed.
Post-installation wiring tests
Upon completion of the installation of pipes and boxes, it is necessary to measure the grounding in order to determine the reliability of the connection of each element of the circuit.
Upon completion of the verification and elimination of all, even minor, non-conformities with the requirements of the PUE, a cable is laid.
The cable should be selected so long that a small margin of length is created in any of the boxes, which can later be useful when changing connections.
When installing an electrical network in wooden buildings, it is necessary to use cables with three or five cores with mandatory grounding. Putting electrical wiring into operation without grounding is strictly prohibited.
Wiring in wooden house is an important aspect in construction. Despite the fact that the wood used for the construction of houses and cottages is treated with a variety of impregnations to increase fire resistance, this material is still vulnerable. If you do not lay the electrical network in the house according to the rules, then you can expose your family to danger.
If you want to lay the power grid in a wooden house yourself, you need to adhere to a certain set of rules - PUE and SNiP. They provide a short general list of requirements, subject to which you can protect yourself as much as possible and prevent fires in a wooden room. Do-it-yourself wiring in the house should be laid according to clear instructions and each step should be provided.
PUE (rules for electrical installations) - defines the requirements for the installation of an electrical network in the premises. Compliance with the requirements of the PUE is considered expensive to implement, but a very expedient way. It is tough and time consuming to execute. For this reason, these rules are not often followed.
SNiP and PUE were prescribed in order to calculate absolute safety, provided that any load flows through the cable, to protect oneself from a short circuit or ignition of the line. If homemade wiring is not exposed to relatively high voltages in a wooden house, then this is not particularly dangerous.
Therefore, when laying electrical wiring in such a building, all risk factors should be taken into account and the right decision should be made. Either the line is made according to all the rules of the PUE and SNiP - expensive, but reliable, or it will be carried out faster and cheaper, but under high loads your house will become unsafe.
In the normative act PUE-6 there are special requirements for laying electrical wiring in wooden rooms. In order to prevent moisture and steam condensate from accumulating on the cables, they are placed in pipes, metal sleeves or boxes are flexible. It also gives the wires additional protection against mechanical damage.
It is allowed to connect such pipes, boxes or metal hoses if the room is dry, there is no accumulation of gas, vapors, condensate and the humidity level is normal. The connection of metal hoses, boxes and pipes is necessary under negative conditions in the house. They should be fastened to each other when vapors, gases are contained in the room, which negatively affect the insulation of cables, their protective sheath, as well as during outdoor installation of wiring, if moisture, oil and other liquids may enter the power line. Once bonded, they are sealed and sealed.
In dusty houses, sealing joints and branches of pipes, hoses, boxes are made to protect against dust, small debris. Connecting pipes, sleeves and boxes are used as a ground or neutral protective conductor, performing the function of "ground" or "zero" in the wiring. It is forbidden to lead cables through ventilation ducts and shafts. Only crossing by a single wire, which is located in a protective metal sleeve or pipe, is allowed.
Also routing wires for false ceiling must be carried out in accordance with the norms of Chapter 7 of the PUE. When installing the electrical network in a private wooden house, it is required to use exclusively copper wires... You also need to carefully select the type of cable that can withstand the required load with a margin. Be sure to follow safety precautions when laying an electrical line in the house.
How not to do
In order to lead the electrical network into wooden knowledge, one cannot use all the installation methods for stone houses or apartments. You can not mount the wire on a wooden beam and other structures without protection. The main power line must not be covered with flammable materials or trim. Do not allow the insulation of the wiring to be affected by temperature extremes, humidity, accumulation of dust and dirt on the wires, frequent deformation and bending of wires. It is necessary to exclude an increase in the load on the entire home network.
All of these factors can damage the wiring, resulting in a short circuit. If a bare part of the electrical wiring ignites in a wooden house, then a fire is inevitable. The wires should also not be unprotected. Pets or rodents can gnaw through the wire, which must be avoided. When processing wood near the laid wires, a large amount of shavings and dust accumulates. In the event of a short circuit, the ignition will be assisted by the presence of a combustible material.
Entering cables into the house
Carrying out electrical cables to a private wooden house is a very important area of work. Do not focus solely on the internal wiring in the building. Entering the power cable into the house must meet modern requirements. It should be borne in mind that energy consumption has increased, which increases the load on the line, as well as the effect on the external insulation of solar is better, the temperature drop, moisture, which subsequently exposes the metal conductors of the wires. There are two possible ways to insert a line of force into a private house- underground and air.
An underground way to run an electric line is more reliable, but difficult and expensive. The power cable is completely hidden from external factors, which reduces the risk of mechanical damage to the wire, moisture ingress, etc. For this, earthworks are carried out. The cable is placed at a depth of more than 80 centimeters, and the security zone must be marked with special plates. The passage of the power line under the foundation of the house is made with a special metal sleeve through which the wire passes. The sleeve is made of thick-walled pipes and durable metal.
Today, this method is used in the construction of new houses, since it is possible to think over the passage of all communications into the building using new construction technologies. Air way. This method has been used for a long time. Only a qualified worker with a suitable permit is allowed on the poles of power lines. Therefore, you cannot make the cable entry yourself.
A cable of the SIP type is used from the pole to the house. Self-supporting insulated wire has a very strong sheath made of polyethylene structure, resistant to solar radiation and temperature extremes. The service life is about 25-30 years. This line does not run inside the building, only up to the switchboard. For a separate section, which unites the line connection point and up to the switchgear, a VVGng cable is used. It can be used for fixed wiring, as well as for outdoor. For reliability, it is placed in an electrotechnical corrugated pipe.
The connection usually takes place outside the building. At the intersection of VVGng wires through the wooden beam of the house, attic walls, floors, a metal sleeve is built in for additional protection of the wire.
Video "Wiring in a log house"
Installation of the shield
When installing the shield, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions for installing it. All wiring is routed directly to the switchboard. It contains an electric meter, additional protective devices, automatic plugs (a modern way to de-energize an overvoltage network), a DIN rail, as well as ground loop and zero bus bars. What dimensions should be in the box is not regulated, but it is better not to save on this, so that it is possible to increase the equipment with an increase in the need for electricity.
The installation of the meter is carried out by specialists of a state institution, they seal it. The capacity of operating machines is calculated for each zone separately. When the sector is overloaded, the direct power supply is turned off in it to avoid negative consequences. The RCD can be connected to the entire indoor network. This may affect more frequent automatic operations of the machine, but this is not critical. Installation of the shield is carried out on a solid, stable vertical surface in an accessible place. In private sectors, it is located outside the building.
When connecting wires to the switchboard, conventional twisting is not used. For this, soldering or terminal connections are used. The clamps are reliable and can be easily replaced if necessary. Choosing which method is best able to protect the electrical distribution board, you can choose a protective sealed box that will prevent moisture and physical damage.
Open wiring
With the PUE-6 norms, open wiring in a wooden house is laid on the surface of the walls of the building, along the ceilings, as well as along farms and other building elements of the structure (supports, beams, etc.). Open wiring is laid along a tension string, cable, on special colic. Used insulators for electrical cables and cords, metal pipes, more flexible hands for line mobility, in trays. There are also special electrical skirting boards in which the wire is placed, platbands with this purpose, free suspension.
Open wiring in a private wooden house involves the use of a special electrotechnical corrugated pipe to create an electrical line. For its production, a special stable and non-combustible type of plastic is used. It is much more expensive than conventional insulating elements, but justifies its reliability. Such a corrugated tube is very convenient for installation, since it is quite flexible. Despite its not aesthetic appearance, this insulating material is one of the best for open wiring in a wooden house.
The electrical tube collects a large amount of dust due to some features of the material, which requires constant maintenance and wiping of dust from its surface. For the installation of open wiring, electrical boxes can be used. After the construction of a private wooden house channels are installed in special boxes, which are usually made of refractory plastic. Cables are pulled through them, and then sealed with lids.
The main problem with using such an installation is the shrinkage of the building after construction. The better the wooden beam is used for construction, the lower the level of shrinkage of the house. If the building is made of laminated veneer lumber, then usually the shrinkage is 1 centimeter per 1 meter of the height of the house. Then, over time, on average for a two-story wooden house, the shrinkage will be about 3 centimeters. In the event that the wiring was made with tension on the cord, then it can burst from excessive tension and pressure. Otherwise, the box covers will fly out, and they will crack. Then the wiring will need to be re-drawn. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the shrinkage, make a small supply of wire at the joints, near the switchboard, as well as at the electric pole.
Concealed wiring
The norms of PUE-6 provide that hidden wiring in a wooden house can be laid directly inside the structural elements of the building (wall, floor, ceilings, foundation), in the floors of a wooden floor, as well as under a removable beam. Hidden wiring in a house can be done in several ways - placing the cable in flexible protective sleeves, pipes, boxes, in hollow building structures or closed channels. Also, the laying of the wiring can be done in a grooved furrow, which is covered with special plaster, or the creation of a "monolith" in various building structures during their manufacture at the factory.
It is recommended to start the installation of hidden wiring in a wooden building using metal hoses or pipes to protect the room. Adhering to such rules, you can avoid the consequences of arcing wiring, overheating of cables from excessive load in the network.
Usually hidden wiring is laid behind wooden beams walls or floor. It is necessary that the protective elements are minimally vulnerable to corrosion. To do this, you must first paint over the structures with a stable paint to reduce the likelihood of rusting and increase the service life, or use pipes made of a special material - stainless steel (expensive and reliable), galvanized.
After pipes and sleeves have been cut to the required length, sharp iron burrs and edges remain at their ends, which should not be allowed when laying the cable. Since these edges can damage the braiding of the cord, they must be cleaned with a sharpening stone or file. Specially designed plastic plugs can be used.
If the electrical wiring in the house will be done under a wooden floor, then you need to raise a few bars for more convenient laying of the sleeve or pipe. In the places where the wiring exits, to connect the fittings, you need to drill in the bar. The wires coming out of the main line can be placed in a copper tube and sunk into the wall. Copper is flexible enough, resistant to corrosion and well suited to continue further installation work, but this material is quite expensive. If the electrical cables will be recessed into the wall, then a drill and a hammer drill must be used for this. In this case, the bar is not removed, but a longitudinal hollow is drilled in it, where the wire will be laid in the future.
According to GOST and PUE, there is a standard for conducting power lines in rooms with temperature extremes. If a stable temperature corresponding to the season is not maintained in a wooden house, then pipes with a cable must be placed at a slight slope. This is due to the fact that condensation can accumulate in such houses, which should not be allowed. A slight slope will allow accumulated condensation to gradually drain into the lower part of the pipe and gradually evaporate.
Since it makes no sense to use plaster in wooden houses, the wiring is usually placed on the floor with a wooden floor bar or between the partitions of the walls, where there are recesses.
Wooden houses are a very ancient tradition of Russian architecture. Even in our time, when there is no shortage of modern building materials, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build housing from wood - no one can even closely compare with it in terms of natural warmth and special comfort created.
And ordinary townspeople - the owners of small summer cottages, most often opt for wood as the main material for construction. But both permanent and temporary housing in modern conditions cannot do without power supply. In both cases, it is extremely necessary to know how to make the wiring in a wooden house correctly, so as not to endanger your health and even life, to ensure the safety of housing and property.
Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house
First of all, it is necessary to warn home craftsmen who believe that if they can fix an outlet or a switch in an apartment, they know how to distinguish zero from a phase using a conventional indicator, then they can safely tackle self-assembly electrical wiring and in a country wooden house. Not everything is so simple - a wooden structure is distinguished by an increased fire hazard, and the requirements for laying power lines are completely different here.
Unsatisfactory electrical wiring is the most common cause of fires Gloomy statistics show that the overwhelming number of fires occurring in wooden buildings are directly related to violations of the installation and operation of electrical appliances or wiring. By and large, you should not undertake the independent laying of electrical lines at all - this is the lot of qualified specialists. However, knowing the basic rules is necessary for any owner of wooden housing, although would in order to evaluate the already existing cabling or to control the work of the called electricians, since it is quite possible to run into "hack" doing work on the principle of "no big deal, and that will do."
So, what are the basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden structure:
- The possibility of fire of the cable with the transmission of an open flame to the wooden structure of the building in the event of a short circuit must be completely excluded or minimized to the limit.
- The physical, technical and operational characteristics of the wires and electrical fittings used must, with a sufficient margin, correspond to the total power consumption at each specific section of the wiring, taking into account the peak loads. Any manifestation of heating of cables or terminal connections is unacceptable.
- The condition of the wiring must completely exclude the risk of electric shock to people or pets.
The problem of aesthetics in a wooden structure should fade into the background. There are many acceptable ways to solve this issue too (this will be discussed below). But you can never seek to improve the interior design of premises at the expense of even a slight decrease in the level of security - this is fraught with disastrous consequences.
The difficulty of independent work on laying in a wooden house is also that there is no single regulatory document. Experienced craftsmen with extensive work experience know the basic requirements for it and the technological methods for their implementation. It is not so easy to pick up the necessary information, scattered about SNiPs, GOSTs and PUE (rules for electrical installations), and it is often too specialized in nature, understandable only to a person with specialized education.
The main objective of this publication is to give the owners of wooden houses a basic understanding of how to install electrical wiring. As an instruction on how to make wiring in a wooden house, addressed to an untrained person, for completely independent electrical work, it should not be considered.
Electric line entrance to the house
This is — very important area, which for some reason the owners often forget, focusing on the internal wiring. Probably, the principle is working - it has been standing for a long time and fully justifies itself. Meanwhile, the introduction of the power cable into the house could have been carried out for a very long time, using old technologies that no longer meet modern requirements. The equipping of houses with electrical appliances has literally increased several times, and accordingly, energy consumption has also increased. And the cable part itself can be hopelessly outdated - the insulation bursts under the long-term exposure to the sun and temperature extremes, exposing the metal cores and reducing the safety of the wiring.
Such cable entry through a wooden wall is a "time bomb" A particularly vulnerable area is the passage of the cable through the wooden wall of the attic. At one time, it was believed that cutting the rubber hose was enough for safety. However, such a knot is fraught with a considerable threat - in the composition of rubber there is a considerable percentage of soot, which in itself is carbon, i.e. conductive material. With the aging of such an "insulator", bridges of electrical conductivity with a sufficiently high specific resistance appear. There may be areas of local heating, sparking, and for dry boards of the roof gable, this may be quite enough.
In short, if the goal is to completely update the wiring and bring it into a truly safe state, then you need to start from here.
There are two ways to bring a power line into a house - aerial and underground.
- The underground method is considered more reliable, since the cable is completely hidden and not subject to external influences. At the same time, this is a fairly costly method that will require significant excavation work. The cable must be located at a depth of at least 0.8 m, the security zone must be marked with signs. Passage through the foundation and entry into the house is made with the obligatory installation of metal sleeves from thick-walled pipes.
As a rule, it makes sense to organize such a connection only when, in advance, thinking over the passage of communications. If the power line is laid in an already rebuilt house, then it is easier and cheaper to use overhead wiring.
- It is strictly forbidden to carry out any independent electrical work on the poles of power lines - only a highly qualified electrician with the appropriate admission has the right to do this.
An approximate diagram of the required placement of overhead wiring from power lines to the house is shown in the figure.
The section of the line from the post to the house is usually made of a wire with a cross section of at least 16 mm. Basically, a cable of the SIP type (self-supporting insulated wire) is used, which has a high-strength XLPE sheath, resistant to infrared radiation and thermal extremes. The service life of such a wire should be at least 25 years.
However, this line never starts inside the house. According to the existing rules, it is strictly forbidden to lay cables with an aluminum current-carrying part over combustible elements of structures. And since we are talking about a wooden house, then starting from the entrance and up to The last outlet or light bulb uses exclusively copper conductors.
For the section from the line connection to the input switchgear, it is recommended to use the VVGng cable. The additional index "ng" indicates the incombustibility of its insulating coating. This cable perfectly meets the requirements for fixed wiring both indoors and outdoors. However, for greater reliability, it is recommended to also enclose it in a corrugated polymer pipe, which has the appropriate certification according to the current fire safety rules NPB 246-97. The plastic from which the "corrugation" is made belongs to self-extinguishing, non-combustible materials.
It is always carried out outside the building. Currently, for this, special hermetic clamps are most often used, providing reliable contact without the possibility of oxidation and the occurrence of sparking.
Areas of passage of VVGng through the walls of the house and attic or floor slabs are necessarily enclosed in a metal sleeve made of a thick-walled pipe. This precaution has several objectives:
- The cable part will be protected from damage that can be caused by displacement of building structures, for example, due to house shrinkage or ground vibrations.
- The metal sheath will prevent the spread of fire on wooden structures to the maximum extent possible in the event of an emergency - overheating or a fire in the cable.
- The cable in vulnerable places hidden from view is protected from domestic rodents.
Pipe wall thickness is a regulated value. So, if a wire with a cross section of up to 4 mm² is used, it should be 2.8 mm, and when using more powerful cables - from 6 to 10 mm² - even 3.2 mm. This will exclude the possibility of burning out the pipe wall if a short circuit occurs inside it.
The same rule applies to all areas of intra-house wiring in a wooden building, without any exception.
The next important section is from the entrance to the house to the switchboard (according to the accepted terminology, the input switchgear - VUR). What is the special specificity of this site - it remains unprotected by automatic equipment from overloads or short-circuit and, as a rule, is not in sight, often passing through the attic or utility rooms. You should not rely on the automation of an electrical substation - there are completely different response levels.
There are several ways to radically solve this problem:
- The entire section of the cable to the ASP can be enclosed in a metal pipe with the same parameters as mentioned above. However, this becomes possible only with its small length - up to 2.5 - 3 meters and the absence of a large number of turns. Push a sufficiently rigid cable over considerable distances in the hole T t rubles will be simply impossible.
- It seems optimal to install a circuit breaker in a sealed box immediately in front of the line's entrance to the building. In this case, the threshold of its operation is chosen one step higher than that of the main AZ, which is installed on the ASU. So, if a 25 A machine gun is installed on the dashboard, then 32 A.
This will protect the vulnerable area from overload, but at the same time, if such a situation occurs in the internal house wiring, then the automatic switch on the ASU will work, and there will be no need to get to the external AZ.
- There is another option, when both the automatic machine and the energy consumption meters are taken out by the power supplying organizations in general to the outer wall of the building or even to the power transmission line poles. It is, of course, reliable, but not always convenient for the owners of the house.
Installing the switchboard
The line from the entrance to the house directly, without any branches, leads to the switchboard - ASU. What are its main components:
- A metal or plastic box with places for placing an electric meter and additional protection devices, a DIN rail for AZ, buses - zero and ground loop. The dimensions of the box are not regulated, so it is better not to save money in this case, and install it with the expectation of a further possible "upgrade" - retrofitting, the need for which may arise as it expands electrical equipment at home.
- Sealed electricity consumption meter.
- The main input circuit breaker, two-pole or three-pole, which is usually also sealed by the power supply organization.
- Single-pole AZ mounted on a DIN rail. Their number may vary. Typically, the power grid of the house is divided into zones - each them them will correspond to their own machine of a certain power. So, they allocate a kitchen, one or several rooms into separate zones, which can also be divided into lighting and a socket group. Often a separate area is the lighting of the courtyard, the power supply of the garage and outbuildings, external sockets, which are used for household work on the territory.
The power of the machines is calculated for each zone individually. They are guided by the rule that it must provide operation in case of overload at the weakest section of the local wiring. The lower the rating, the higher the safety of using electrical appliances. So, if ordinary sockets have a permissible limit of 16 A, then AZ should not exceed this value.
- RCD is a protective power cut-off device when a leakage current is detected. In view of the considerable cost of such a device, many are simply neglected. However, although it is not mandatory, it is still better not to stint, purchase and include it in the general power supply system. The RCD will reliably protect residents from electric shock when using electrical appliances, and will not allow emergency situations in the network. It acquires particular importance in areas with high humidity - kitchens, bathrooms, baths, boiler rooms, external fittings in yards, garages, etc. The selection of the RCD rating and its installation should be carried out by a qualified electrician, since several parameters are taken into account here - the total load of the site (maximum current) and the leakage current.
An RCD can be installed on the entire intra-house network, but in this case there is a high probability of frequent false alarms of protection, and in addition, it will be very difficult to identify the source of a potential security threat. In a more convenient, but, however, also in a more expensive way becomes installation RCD also with zoning, similar to AZ.
Video: an example of installing an RCD
The entire hardware part of the switchboard must be exclusively from trusted manufacturers, have the appropriate certificates of conformity. It is important to remember that in many respects it is these who are responsible for the safety of the owners and the safety of the building.
Prices for residual current devices (RCDs)
Residual current devices (RCDs)
How to make wiring in a wooden house - from the panel to the points of consumption
Now about one of the main points of the wiring in a wooden house - the sections from the switchboard to the points of connection of electrical appliances.
First of all, a few words about. Twists must be avoided, even when using thick copper conductors of the same cross-section. Soldering of wires with subsequent closing of the bare part with plastic caps is allowed. The optimal solution would be to use special spring or screw terminal connections (for example, WAGO terminals). It is not so expensive, but it will provide both reliable contact and the required protection against short circuits. In addition, such connections are easy to check and, if necessary, replace.
The optimal solution for a wooden house is an open location of the wiring on the walls. There are opportunities to place it hidden, but this will require large-scale and expensive work.
Open wiring methods
- For a long time, the placement of internal wiring cables on wooden structural elements on insulating rollers has been used, providing a safe gap of 10 mm from the wall.
In the houses of the old buildings, in some places, such wiring has been preserved to this day.
There are numerous fans of this retro style ... By the way, this method of fastening has begun to come back into fashion - many owners prefer such a retro wiring. For this, special twisted cables of various colors are even produced.
... and you can even purchase special wiring Video: retro wiring on wooden walls
However, such approaches should be taken seriously. d for organizing all internal wiring is hardly appropriate. The number of electrical appliances and, accordingly, points of consumption in the average house has increased significantly, and laying many highways from the switchboard on rollers on top of the wall will look simply ridiculous.
- Single cables with a cross-section of less than 6 mm² can be placed directly on the wall surface, fixing them with electrotechnical clips appropriate size. The main condition for this is the presence of double (or even better - triple) cable insulation. For such purposes, the already mentioned wires of the VVGng or NIM brand are suitable. If wires in ordinary insulation are used, then a non-combustible gasket (asbestos or metal) is required, protruding from both sides of the cable by at least 10 mm, and this is unlikely to decorate the interior of the room.
- Electrical wiring can be placed in a plastic electrical pipe. The advantage of this approach is that several wires can be placed in one pipe. It will already look somewhat better than single cables, but nevertheless the aesthetics in this case "lame" - the corrugation is not easy to place perfectly evenly, even with the use of clips. But on the other hand, the wires receive additional protection from external damage and the required gap from the wall is created.
For inconspicuous areas of wiring, for example, for utility or technical rooms, this method becomes, probably, optimal. However, it also has a drawback - if you need to replace any one cable, you will have to remove the corrugated lining from the entire bundle of wires.
Learn a few available ways, from our new article.
A sleeve made of a metal pipe in the place where the wires pass through the ceiling - Polymer cable channels, closed with a removable lid. They are produced in various sizes, that is, it is possible to select them for a single wire, and for several parallel lines. They are made of non-combustible plastic, which increases the safety of wiring.
Such boxes can be selected according to the most suitable color - they are not only white, but also toned or with a decorative wood-like finish, which will go well with the wall material.
A special advantage of such channels is the simplicity of preventive or installation works with cable part - you can always remove the cover to replace the problem cable or add a new connection.
Considering that now there are many additional accessories on sale for similar cable channels- turns, external and internal corner elements, tees, plugs, etc., the owners can use them to solve the problem of the required decorative wiring.
Video: open wiring in a wooden house using cable channels
- Another kind of similar cable channels are the systems of electrical skirting boards. They are also equipped with all the necessary elements for straight sections, turns, corners, rises to sockets and switches, junction boxes. This allows you to maintain the overall style of the room, despite the fact that, in fact, the wiring will be considered open.
Important note - installation cable channels should be carried out only after the initial shrinkage of the house and provided that the wood of the walls is well dried. Otherwise, even minor changes in the "geometry" of the room can cause deformation and even destruction of the boxes.
- They also resort to placing open wiring in pipes, metal or polymer. This technology cannot be called convenient - each straight section is threaded separately, then a transitional or rotary coupling is installed, and so on. Of course, the need to replace the cable part will also cause a lot of difficulties. This approach is more of a tribute to fashion, but not the optimal solution for outdoor wiring.
Sockets and switches installed with an open location of the wiring must necessarily have a non-combustible gasket underneath. It is good if this is provided for by their very design. If not, then you will have to cut out areas of asbestos or metal.
You should immediately calculate the required number of outlets in a particular place in the room. The use of tees or extension cords during the operation of electrical appliances should be reduced to a minimum, or even better - completely excluded.
Electric cable prices
Electrical cable
Hidden wiring in a wooden house
If the desire to completely hide the wiring prevails among homeowners, they will be faced with very large-scale works.
- To ensure complete fire safety, all wires must be replaced with a fireproof sheath, which can only be a steel or copper pipe. The inner cavity of the steel pipe must be either painted or galvanized to prevent wall corrosion.
- All transitions and turns are performed using threaded elements or welding (soldering).
- The horizontal sections of the pipes must have a slight slope so that the condensate formed in the cavity has an outlet to the outside. Also, special holes are provided in those places where moisture accumulation is most likely.
- Only metal sockets are installed in the holes cut out for hidden placement of sockets and switches, which must be connected to the ground loop.
- All branches are carried out only in junction boxes, which must also be tightly connected to the pipes.
- The entire pipe loop must be grounded. to relieve potential static voltage from it and prevent electric shock in the event of a possible cable insulation failure.
- In order to prevent contact of the insulation of the wires with the sharp edges of the pipe, a centering plastic plug must be installed at the outlet.
Video: placing hidden wiring in metal pipes
Hidden wiring is also allowed in one more way - according to the outline of the plaster layer with a thickness of at least 10 mm. However, this is rarely used, at least for those reasons that covering natural wood with plaster is probably not the best option.
If you look at photos or videos posted on the Internet, you can see a lot of examples when hidden wiring is placed in metal or plastic, or simply bundles of wires are laid in grooves made in a tree. What no matter how "authoritative" masters write who argue that such a method is completely safe, this is a gross violation of existing requirements. Laying such a "time bomb" in your wooden house is hardly worth it - the stakes are too high!
The article has repeatedly mentioned the ground loop. However, this question is so peculiar and important that it deserves a completely separate detailed publication, which will definitely find its place on the pages of our portal.
Overhaul or construction of a summer cottage or country house, the construction of outbuildings is usually completed by the supply of electricity and interior decoration... Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house requires special attention, as well as adherence to a number of special instructions, norms and requirements. This is due, firstly, to the fire safety rules for electrical installation in wooden houses and, secondly, to the low thermal conductivity of wood and its hygroscopicity.
The installation of electrical appliances and electrical wires in a wooden structure has a number of features that must be taken into account during construction or repair. Electrical wiring in a wooden house, the rules for installing and fixing electrical outlets, circuit breakers, electricity meters have a number of differences compared to the electrical equipment of a brick house.
Properly mounted electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands will help ensure trouble-free operation of the power supply system of a house or summer cottage.
Step-by-step instructions for performing the work include a number of mandatory actions:
- determination of the type of power supply - overhead line or underground cable;
- making a power supply scheme for the premises, taking into account the power of all consumer electrical appliances;
- layout plan for the electrical panel, circuit breakers, electric meter;
- marking the location of lighting devices, stationary electrical appliances and electric heaters;
- determination of the location and number of electrical outlets and switches. A plan for the wiring of the electrical cable to each connection point, indicating the length and required cross-section of the electrical wire.
Drawing up a diagram and plan of power supply
When drawing up a power supply diagram, a plan for installing an electrical cable, the following must be taken into account:
- A distribution board with an electric meter and circuit breakers should be installed near front door at a height of about 1.5 m. This is due to the convenience of access to the dashboard and safety conditions.
- An input safety circuit breaker is installed in front of the electric meter.
- For each consumer group, a separate circuit breaker is installed to protect against overloads.
The optimal height of the lighting switches is 1.5 m, they must be located in the entrance area from the side of the door lock or door handles. Electrical outlets are usually placed at a height of 0.8 - 1 m above floor level, their number and location is determined by the number of electrical appliances used. When drawing up a plan for the location of sockets and switches, you should also take into account the arrangement of furniture so that pieces of furniture do not block access to them.
Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house imposes increased requirements on the electrical cables used in work. For wooden buildings, only a cable with a copper core, double or triple insulation, made of non-combustible material, and a cross-section corresponding to the load must be used.
The layout and layout of electrical appliances will allow you to calculate the total required amount of electrical cable and auxiliary elements. These include junction boxes, junction boxes, sockets and switches. After purchasing necessary materials electrical wiring in a wooden house can be installed quite simply and quickly.
Various mounting methods
Electrical wiring in a wooden house (see photo) can be installed in various ways:
- external wiring on brackets or porcelain insulators;
- hidden wiring in cable ducts;
- laying a hidden cable in a hose or pipe;
- wiring in the cable skirting board.
External or exposed wiring in a wooden house of an electrical cable using fastening brackets or porcelain insulators is one of the simplest and most affordable installation methods. The disadvantages of external wiring include:
- unaesthetic appearance;
- risk of damage to an open cable;
- the possibility of damage to the junction boxes.
Most often, external wiring on mounting brackets is used for office and auxiliary premises, as well as for the installation of power supply to outbuildings. Fastening of wires on porcelain insulators is used as retro wiring in a wooden house when decorating a "semi-antique" dwelling. More time consuming, but the most aesthetic and reliable is hidden wiring in a wooden house. This type of installation should include the laying of wires in special cable ducts fixed to the wall surface. They are easy to attach, have an aesthetic appearance, you can also purchase channels that have the color and texture of wood. Such products look very good on walls made of timber, logs or boards. The hidden wiring of the cable also includes the wiring in the electrical plinth. This skirting board is made of plastic and has compartments for attaching power or signal cables. To lead the cable from the plinth to the outlet or switch, either cable ducts or laying between the load-bearing wall and the decorative finishing panel are used. Laying the cable in a metal hose or plastic corrugated protective pipe is used for hidden power distribution. It is produced in the space between the load-bearing timber wall and the decorative cladding wall panel. The installation of the power supply of the house begins from the general automatic machine and the introductory panel according to the previously drawn up scheme and plan for the placement of electrical appliances-consumers. The entire installation is divided into separate sections, each of which is equipped with its own circuit breaker marked with a circuit breaker. Various rooms, outbuildings, street lighting, individual high-power electrical appliances, etc. can be distinguished into separate assembly sections.
Hidden wiring in a wooden house
Wiring installation procedure
Wood Vacation home- this is the dream of almost any person who loves to be closer to nature and spend time on fresh air... The traditions of building wooden dwellings have their roots in antiquity - this is especially true of those countries in which, as in Russia, there was always an abundance of forest.
Many log houses cannot afford it; today it is fun for people with a high income. But no less environmentally friendly frame structures come to the rescue.
The cornerstone of all these buildings was and is - the possibility of a fire. Today, in the age of electrification, when the number of electrical appliances is only growing, people who are planning to build or buy such a house should first of all make sure that the electrical wiring in a wooden house is made in accordance with all safety standards.
In no case should you take this material as a guide to action. All electrification work should be performed only by qualified specialists who have permission to access the electrical network.
But this knowledge will be useful to any person involved in construction, if only in order to control the work of the masters and prevent "hack-work". If you decide to do the wiring installation yourself, then you must realize that all the responsibility falls on your shoulders.
Due to the fact that wooden structures have an increased fire hazard, the requirements for laying power lines are completely different.
- Fire of the power cable is inadmissible and the transmission of an open flame to a timber structure due to a short circuit. If it is not possible, for some reason, to exclude such an option completely, then the probability should be minimized as much as possible.
- The operational and physical-technical properties of the wires used by you must correspond to the power consumption taking into account the peak loads, in all areas of the electrical wiring. Any manifestation of heating of the cable or the places of terminal connections is not allowed.
- The condition of the wires should exclude the risk of electric shock, both people and animals.
From the above, it follows that the question of beauty and aesthetics in a wooden house fades into the background. For the sake of visual design of the premises, the level of security should not be reduced even slightly. Throughout the article, I will mention some ways to solve this problem.
The lack of a unified regulation is another reason why such work is complicated. It is not so easy to independently select the information contained in the PUE, SNiPs and GOSTs, since due to the specialized nature of the information, only a person with a specialized education can understand them.
Putting an electric line into a building
This site is one of the most critical - it needs to be given special attention. If the wiring has been in use for many years, then, most likely, it is outdated and does not meet modern requirements.
Do not forget that due to exposure to the sun and a sharp temperature drop, in these places the insulation of the wires becomes unusable over time, exposing the current-carrying conductors. That is why it is important to periodically control not only the house wiring, but especially the places of its entry.
The above photo is a little out of focus, but it perfectly shows how not to arrange. At the entry point, it is clearly visible that the insulation is broken, and the tree is in direct contact with the wire. This place is the most vulnerable.
Previously, in the form of a gasket, the wire was passed through a piece of rubber hose, but it can hardly be said that this is more secure. The reason is that over time, rubber dries up, and soot in its composition forms conductive bridges, since it is carbon in nature.
Attention! If you have a similar scheme in your house, then keep in mind that this is a time bomb. The sooner the appropriate corrective action is taken, the better.
Underground wiring entry
There are two ways to lead a power line into a building - underground and air. The second method is the safest, since the wires are not exposed to any stress. The cost of underground cable laying will be significantly higher, as it will require additional costs for earthworks.
The cable must be buried to a depth of at least 80 cm, and the entire security zone must be marked with signs. At the points of entry into the soil, entry into the building and passage through the foundation, metal sleeves made of thick-walled pipes must be installed.
For sealed cable entry through concrete floors and foundations, there are special modern systems... Also for this purpose, MGKP (Sealing mastic for cable penetrations), plaster compounds and special seals for sleeves are used. The diagrams of these devices are shown in the following pictures.
This connection has another significant plus - it will allow the installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house. This means a structure made of a solid timber or log house, but if your house is of frame type, then this method of installation is possible with air inlet.
Typically, this connection is made when building a new home. If the building has already been erected, then it is advisable to use the following method.
Air cable entry
The following diagram shows the air method of the eyeliner. For the last section from the post to the house, a wire with a cross section of 16 mm or more, which belongs to the self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire) category, should be used.
The sheath of this cable consists of a cross-linked, high-strength polyethylene, which is resistant to temperature extremes and infrared radiation. Average service life is up to 25 years.
This wire never gets inside the house, since according to safety rules, it is strictly forbidden to lay aluminum cables over combustible parts of the structure. This means that inside wooden structures, only copper wires are allowed.
Instead, a VVGng cable is used from the line to the switchboard. It does not support combustion, which is indicated by the corresponding marking: "ng".
Due to its characteristics, such a wire is excellent for laying, both outdoors and indoors. However, it will be better if it is additionally placed in a polymeric corrugated tube. This additional insulation is self-extinguishing.
The transition from one type of wire to another is always done from the outside. Today, for these purposes, special fasteners and joints (clamps) are used, which provide reliable fixation and contact, without the possibility of sparking and oxidation.
As in the case of underground installation, in the places of passage through the walls of the house (including internal ones), a metal sleeve must be installed, which performs the following tasks.
- Protects the cable from damage caused by movement of the structure, such as ground vibrations or house shrinkage.
- The pipe, acting as a heat sink, prevents the spread of flame to the walls in the event of a short circuit inside it.
- Another problem with frame houses is rodents, which like to nest in wall cavities. The metal sleeve will prevent them from damaging the wires.
The thickness of the pipe must strictly correspond to the cross-section of the cable. So, if the cable has a cross-section of up to 4 mm2, then the minimum wall thickness is 2.8 mm. For more powerful cables, a 3.2 mm pipe is used.
House wiring
The next unsafe place is the part of the line from the entrance into the room to the switchboard (VUR). The problem is that the shield is triggered by short circuits that occur in the part electrical circuit, laid from it, and the specified section remains unprotected.
There are three methods to secure this place:
- First- is to place the entire cable inside the pipe, as in the case of wall penetrations.
- Second way much easier. Outside the building, directly in front of the entrance, an additional protective circuit breaker is installed, located in a sealed box. The triggering threshold of the additional AZ should be higher by a step of the main one located in the shield.
- Third method the most reliable, but also the most inconvenient. Employees of the energy company take out the metering devices for electricity consumption and ASU on the outer wall or on the power line pole.
Installation of the ASU shield
The next step is to install the switchboard. Let's briefly describe its constituent elements.
So:
- The ASU case can be metal or plastic. It is a box, inside of which there are places for fixing the electricity meter, a DIN rail for installing circuit breakers, buses - zero and a ground loop. You should not save on the size of the shield, always take it with a margin, so that if you need to install additional equipment, there is a place for it.
- Electricity consumption meter sealed by the energy company.
- Main introductory AZ. It can be two- or three-pole. It also has a seal from the power supply company.
- The next in the chain are single-pole circuit breakers. Their capacity must correspond to each area allocated for them inside the house. Zoning is very convenient and safer, since, if necessary, you can not de-energize the entire circuit, but only the required part.
Attention: The power of each machine is calculated separately and must ensure operation in case of network overload in its weakest section. That is, if the rating of the outlet is 16 A, then the power of the AZ should not exceed this value.
Of the optional additional devices, it is recommended to install an RCD. This device reacts to current leakage and automatically cuts off the electricity. This device is especially relevant in the presence of electric lines in wet rooms - saunas, bathrooms.
Further wiring
There are two methods to spread wires to power points - hidden and open. The first one is easier to perform during the construction of a house, otherwise you will face large-scale alterations. To fully ensure fire safety, all wires will have to be placed in a fireproof sheath - ideally a metal pipe made of steel or copper.
Many people use corrugation, but it is less reliable. Great difficulties will arise in many years, when it will be necessary to replace the wiring. We will not describe this method in detail, since this is a topic for a separate article.
It is technically and economically much more expedient to choose the installation of open wiring in a wooden house, not to mention safety (see). There are several ways to do this.
So:
- The retro method, in which the wires are carried away from the wooden wall to a safe distance of 1 cm. Today it has become fashionable and many manufacturers offer special twisted wires. Due to the huge number of devices in modern house, we will not consider it as a serious solution to electrification.
- Individual cable sections, whose cross-section does not exceed 6 mm2, can be placed directly on the wall. If your wire does not have double or triple insulation, then a fireproof gasket must be placed under it, which is also installed under sockets and switches. Metal plates or paranit are perfect as spacers.
- The wiring can be housed in a corrugated polymer tube for a more attractive look as multiple wires can easily fit inside. This method is ideal for technical rooms and locations with inconspicuous wiring.
- The next and most common method is the use of PVC cable channels. They come in a variety of sizes and colors, so you can easily place all the wires and close them with a removable cover for a finished look.
- The last, most aesthetic and expensive method is the use of electrical skirting boards. They are prefabricated and equipped with all the necessary elements for lifting to switches, junction boxes and sockets, laying corners, turns and straight sections.
Electrical wiring in a wooden house is a matter worth paying attention to. By approaching the issue professionally, you protect yourself from unnecessary risks. For a better understanding of the topic, we suggest that you additionally familiarize yourself with the video presented in this article.
