The steam room is the main element of the bath, its very essence. In order for the steam room to be truly hot, it is important to thoughtfully approach the process.
Incorrect actions or incorrectly selected materials can lead to the steam room taking a long time to heat up or giving off heat too quickly.
In addition, all materials must meet safety and environmental requirements.
Let’s make a reservation right away that different types of bathhouses need to be insulated in different ways, so here is an overview of the materials, and for details on insulation and bathhouses, see the relevant materials on the site. Technologies are also presented in separate materials. More information on different types See insulation for baths.
How to reduce heat costs
You can avoid additional costs for insulating a bathhouse if you take care at the construction stage:
Insulation for sauna steam room: 4 layers of insulation
Water protection is aimed at insulating interior spaces from moisture from the outside. Needed for frame construction and for aerated concrete walls.
IMPORTANT! Should choose different solutions for waterproofing steam rooms and other rooms. Waterproofing materials for steam rooms should be made from materials that can withstand the highest temperatures (for example, based on kraft paper).
Insulation The steam room should be aimed at reducing heat loss and creating a “thermos” effect. Then all the heat will remain inside the steam room, and not warm the environment. Therefore, when choosing insulation for a bath, the steam room requires the closest attention.
Finishing materials They allow you to hide flaws during construction, in addition, they provide a beautiful visual appearance of the steam room.
REFERENCE. The market mainly presents finishing materials from such tree species as pine, linden or aspen. This wood has a low density, so we recommend using narrow boards and placing them horizontally to eliminate the risk of warping. In addition, it is imperative to treat them with oils or other specialized compounds to extend their service life.
Insulation for a steam room: types
There are different types of insulation used for installation on walls, ceilings and floors. Separate articles are devoted to materials used for and.
For walls
Everything can be divided into two categories:
- – natural;
- – artificial.
Natural
Natural materials are made from natural raw materials:
- sphagnum(scope of application: );
- tow(scope of application: eliminating cracks);
- building moss(insulation of steam room walls).
Artificial
Popular artificial materials include:
- extruded expanded polystyrene;
- polystyrene foam
These insulation materials are characterized by high resistance to damage and have long term operation and a high degree of thermal insulation.
- basalt wool.
It is distinguished by high quality, ease of installation and low cost.
For the ceiling
Traditional
For . For example, it is still used for steam rooms; it is used to coat the ceiling of the steam room from the attic side
Common the use of bulk materials such as expanded clay, sawdust, slag, etc. A layer of earth must be poured onto the sawdust to ensure fire safety. And the expanded clay layer should be at least 30 cm.
Modern
For ceiling insulation, the following are better suited:
- basalite (slabs of low-density basalt fiber);
- isospan (there are 2 types):
- – isospan A (barrier type against wind and condensation, installed outside the insulation);
- – isospan B (barrier type against steam, installed indoors, protects the insulation).
The ceiling can also be insulated with regular foil, the layers of which must be overlapped.
For floor
In the steam room you can use:
- – expanded clay synthetic slabs(easy to install);
- – loose expanded clay(also easy to install, but hygroscopic);
- – penoplex ( IMPORTANT! The brand you choose should have high compression loads).
Useful video
Watch the video with explanations from professionals, it may greatly change your plans for choosing insulation:
Conclusions: what insulation to use for a bath in a steam room
Artificial materials are more resistant to high temperatures and humidity, but may lose their insulating properties over time due to constant heating and exposure to moisture.
Despite the variety of materials available from manufacturers, you should first of all focus on the safety of the materials, and not on the cost, because... a steam room is a place where the materials used are constantly exposed to high temperatures.
Find out more:
Where to order
You can get acquainted with the range of high-quality and safe products on the official websites of the companies.
In what cases does a steam room need insulation? Of course, when its walls, ceiling, floor, windows and doors become conductors of heat, transferring it to the street or neighboring rooms, or the basement. In this case you need to put let– a heat insulator that will retain heat inside the steam room.
However, insulation can also be taken care of under construction, without waiting until there is discomfort from a quickly cooling steam room or the high consumption of firewood will lead to the idea that the heat is wasted.
On our website you will find several sections devoted to the insulation of the bathhouse as a whole, its floor, ceiling and walls. Here we will simultaneously explain the basic principles of insulating a steam room in a bathhouse, and provide links to relevant articles.
Construction material
First of all, let's look at steam rooms, the walls of which are made of different materials, with different heat capacity And thermal conductivity.
Made of brick
Brick- not the most suitable material for bathhouse construction, but it does not burn, so such bathhouses last longer.
IMPORTANT! Insulation of the walls in the steam room of a brick bath is mandatory.
In essence, a brick is artificial stone with the correct geometry. Therefore, treat the bath from it as stone building, and just estimate how much firewood is needed to heat such a “cave”.
BY THE WAY! It is in order not to waste energy on heating the “stone” that the insulation is placed from the inside of the room. In this case, the heat is spent only on heating the air and objects inside the heat-insulating “coat”.
The principle of the pie is the same, with minor nuances depending on the materials. Since we are talking about thermal insulation for a bath in a steam room, we will assume that the final cladding will be clapboard.
If so, then you need to briefly do the following:
- The first step is to take care of waterproofing the walls - films, membranes, roofing felt, and mastics are suitable for this.
- Next, the lathing is made on the wall - these are 5x5 cm bars, usually nailed to the wall vertically, from floor to ceiling, in increments of the width of the insulation (after all, they often make mineral wool, so its width is minus 1 cm so that it does not fall out).
- It is between the beams of the sheathing that the insulation is laid, and where the winters are cold, it should be laid in two layers and so that the joints do not coincide and do not form “cold bridges”.
- Everything is covered with a vapor barrier - either film or foil.
- A counter-lattice is placed on top of the vapor barrier - these are again beams, but it can be thinner, 2.5 cm is enough for ventilation.
- The lining is already attached to the counter-lattice. Moreover: if it is mounted vertically, then the counter-lattice should be horizontal, and vice versa. (Which is better, horizontally or vertically, see).
In a wooden bath
Wooden baths are built either from a cylindrical logs, or from a square section timber. Such bathhouses have been built for centuries, when there were no traces of thermal insulators. And they managed just fine without them. However, this is still an art, partly lost.
Therefore, we should not be surprised when, in a log house or timber structure, we suddenly encounter clapboard, under which the pie is insulated. And the conditions in Russia are different everywhere, in some places additional protection is very necessary, in others not so much.
Insulation of a steam room in a log bath
Well, a common problem with such buildings is cracks, which arise constantly, especially in the first years of the bathhouse’s life. Therefore, regular work is needed to seal these cracks or folk remedies , such as moss, or jute. The seams between the logs are also filled modern wood sealants, which have increased elasticity. This alone can reduce heat loss.
Read also 
You can read about insulating a steam room in a log bath in this one.
If you have sorted out the cracks, but it is still cold, you can insulate the steam room in a log bath using the same method described above - waterproofing, lathing, insulation, vapor barrier, counter-lattice and finishing clapboard.
From timber
timber(If profiled) has a variety of tongues and grooves, which increases adhesion during fastening, therefore, when laying insulation during construction (for example, jute), cracks will not appear or will not be the same as in a solid log. However, it can also dry out and form cracks and crevices over time. Therefore, it will have to be repaired in the same way as a log house.
If the thickness of the timber is not enough(it happens that they are built from 150x150, not taking into account the climate of their region), then you will have to insulate it from the inside. The scheme is still the same, nothing new. Only the thickness of the insulation, its material (below about possible options), and the type of hydro- and vapor barrier can vary. But the principle of the pie is the same everywhere, and with its help you can properly insulate a steam room in a wooden bathhouse.
Types of surfaces
Above we talked about the material of the walls, so the floors and ceilings were left without attention. Let's correct this omission.
How to properly insulate a floor
We have a large, interesting, very detailed one about what kind of floors there are in general and how to insulate the floor in a steam room of a bathhouse - dry/non-spill, wet/spill, concrete, wooden, in general, all the options that are available.
Here we will say that principle of floor insulation boils down to putting a layer of insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, penoplex, expanded clay, etc.) between layers of other materials, for example, between waterproofing placed on a sand cushion and a layer of concrete screed, you can put a thermal insulator. Or you can make a flooring from boards, put a heat insulator on it and cover it with a rough and white floor.
In fact, everything is determined by the design of the bathhouse and the choice of how the steam room will get rid of excess water on the floor. If you have pouring floor, which means gaps between the boards and water escaping into the space underneath them, then below there is either a concrete screed (which is insulated during the construction stage), or drainage, or a clay lock and drain (this is an analogue of a concrete screed). In the case of concrete and clay, you divert the water either to the sewer or to a drain outside the bathhouse, otherwise the water goes under the structure.
Insulate pourable floor with water drainage under the building is not possible, but this option is exclusively for summer baths.
In other cases, the insulation is placed below the level of the screed or clay. (Details in the specified article.)
If the floor is dry, then it has a drain through the ladder and into the sewer/drainage outside the bathhouse. In this case, insulation can be done between the beams on a flooring made of boards (instructions are also there, in the chapter on screw foundations, but this is a general case for insulating the floor in a steam room of a bathhouse on beams).
Insulation of the ceiling from the inside
Of course, it is easier to insulate the ceiling in a steam room from the inside during the construction stage. However, there are nuances associated with the type of ceiling - you can make a ceiling in the steam room of a bathhouse either flat, or hemmed.
In the first case, you are separated from the cold attic only by a layer of flooring fixed to the walls (sometimes even without intermediate beams, if the distance between the walls is not too large). You shouldn't walk in an attic with a slab ceiling.
ADVICE! Do not use heavy insulation for a floor ceiling, but keep in mind that lightweight foam is not recommended for use over a steam room, because it has low heat resistance.
false ceiling usually insulated immediately. This installation method is used in cases where a warm attic or attic is expected.
BY THE WAY! Ceiling insulation in a sauna steam room usually involves the use of foil or foil-coated materials. If you are against the “thermos”, you can replace it with any other vapor barrier.
Read on for a comprehensive breakdown of the types of insulation suitable for ceilings and the differences in thermal insulation pie designs for suspended and decked ceilings.
Wall insulation
Above we talked specifically about walls, when we described the variations associated with one or another wall material. So, in principle, the task is completed, but we can advise you to look at this one.
Types of insulation for bath walls from the inside
Since we are talking in this article exclusively about the steam room, it is worth saying that the choice of thermal insulators for it is not so great, which is associated with high temperature in steam rooms and low temperature resistance of some types of thermal insulators.
In particular, as already mentioned, polystyrene foam It’s better not to use it at all (or only for the floor, which, as you know, never overheats). Although he has two useful properties– lightness and waterproofness.
Extruded polystyrene foam It is also only suitable for the floor of a steam room.
Expanded clay good for floors and ceilings.
IMPORTANT! Glass wool Should not be used anywhere in a steam room!
Suitable insulation for a steam room - foam glass, it is non-flammable and combines the properties of mineral wool and polystyrene foam.
But mineral wool, although it is used most often, a specific one is needed - one that does not contain phenolic and formaldehyde binders, which are released when heated. This is only available in mineral wool marked “for saunas and baths.”
She also has an incorrigible flaw - she tends to absorb moisture and at the same time lose its thermal insulation properties. It can only be protected by properly organized ventilation and layers of hydro- and vapor barrier. Over time, mineral wool turns into mineral dust :)
Ecowool- another suitable insulation material, does not burn, is not afraid of mold, moisture resistant and vapor permeable.
In general, it would probably be worth citing the selection criteria:
- must not support combustion;
- should not emit harmful chemical compounds when heated;
- must be resistant to mold, insects, rodents;
- should not deteriorate from water.
If new insulation materials are offered, check them against these criteria. The first two are the most important. And most importantly, always ask for certificates.
Vapor barrier: which is better?
Let's start with the fact that you can use it as a vapor barrier membranes, foil and foil materials, films. In principle, if there was no need to protect the thermal insulation layer, then the need for vapor barrier would disappear - the matter would be limited to ventilation and that’s all.
The main battles, of course, are over foil. We recommend reading ours, which provides arguments regarding which vapor barrier is best for a steam room in a bathhouse.
In general, the need for foil, as well as the harm from it, cannot be considered as unambiguous statements. Because a lot depends on what bath regime a person prefers. And it turns out that what is good for one is detrimental for another.
If we talk exclusively about vapor barrier, without reflecting infrared radiation, then foil is an excellent insulator; it does not allow steam to pass through completely. True, condensation falls on its surface and rolls down, but that’s why we leave the ventilation gap in order to ventilate the lining and prevent it from rotting from this moisture.
Membranes They are different: single- and multi-layer, single- and double-sided, multifunctional... The essence of their action is not to allow steam to pass to the thermal insulator, but to pass in the opposite direction, allowing it to release absorbed water vapor from somewhere else.
Multifunctional membranes They also act as both a heat and water insulator, so they are expensive. In multi-layered ones, moisture accumulates between the layers and then gradually evaporates.
Films They are also different, so it is best to ask the sellers what temperature they are designed for. You need ones that can withstand 100 degrees and above.
Thermal insulation of baths and steam rooms: video
Finally, we invite you to watch a video about the new insulation for bath walls from inside the steam room, which does not have the disadvantages of mineral wool and saves space in the steam room:
We asked the all-seeing Google if they were telling the truth in this video, and it seems like yes. See the properties for yourself polyisocyanurate.
For those who would like more specific instructions on thermal insulation of baths and steam rooms, here is a video with the following instructions:
Feel free to search for the necessary materials on the site yourself - this one will help you!
In any bathhouse, a boiler, stove or other is used for heating. powerful source heat. But even these means will be ineffective if you do not take care of proper insulation of the building.
Peculiarities
Insulate the room wooden bath definitely necessary. Even the relatively low thermal conductivity of wood itself does not guarantee acceptable thermal protection. Ancient log structures could simply be laid with something between the crowns. But the advent of more advanced and practical rounded logs made this approach impossible. Meanwhile, any bathhouse should be designed as a kind of thermos, stably maintaining internal heating regardless of the outside temperature.
If the building is built from expanded clay concrete blocks, the approach should be slightly different. The main role in this case is played by thermal protection from the inside. Heat should be saved only at the moment when the bath is warmed up.
The outer protective layer does not help much in solving this problem. Moreover, systematic temperature changes can destroy any insulating substance.
Stone blocks warm up faster and more significantly than wood, so wood cladding is usually installed on the outside, and insulation is installed underneath. Despite the importance of thermal protection inside, the quality of its external contour cannot be ignored. It determines how resistant the walls will be to severe freezing. In addition to wall planes, additional insulation is required:
- ceiling;
- foundation underneath.
Quite a lot of bathhouses are built on the basis of cinder blocks, and here you also need to decide which thermal protection option will be the best. As with other stone pieces, it is recommended to use both an outer and an inner layer. A layer of thermal insulation is created on the floor, which is twice as thick as the main walls. Only then is the screed installed and the finishing done. A sheathing is formed along the walls using slats. The thickness of each slats is at least 5 cm; The thermal protection is covered with foil materials that hold back water.
Savings on waterproofing or external finishing of cinder blocks often result in serious material losses and the inability to retain heat. Maximum attention should be paid to preparing air gaps. But besides slag concrete, private developers also use other economical construction materials.
Thus, you can find dozens and hundreds of bathhouses built from sleepers. These are reliable and proven structures that can withstand strong mechanical loads, but they will also need to be insulated.
The gaps from one part to another are filled with polyurethane foam. The insulation is laid out over the first crown, and later over the subsequent ones, as soon as a certain tier is completed and mechanically fastened. Much more often, however, than the “railroad” bathhouse, you can find structures made of boards. You can insulate a frame structure:
- mineral wool;
- fiberglass;
- expanded polystyrene;
- the maximum available penoizol.
If you want to use an old chopped sauna, there is no reason to refuse it for technical reasons. Modern technologies even make it possible to increase the characteristics of such buildings by new level. It is logical to use the most natural insulation materials for a log house that do not impair its environmental characteristics. The vast majority of professional teams prefer basalt wool in this case. Tow, which has been used for many centuries, does a good job of holding back drafts and preventing heat from escaping, but it serves too little.
Among the various varieties of moss, the best is cuckoo flax, which is impervious to moisture. But any mosses are easily damaged by moths. Special treatment prevents such a development of events, but there is no need to talk about the complete naturalness of the coating after it. The combination of flax and jute has an increased service life; The disadvantage of this combination is the increased cost. But the convenience of insulation and the impossibility of rotting will please any consumer.
Working with different types of buildings
Wood has the best balance in terms of thermal conductivity, environmental friendliness, hygroscopicity, and sanitary safety.
But even the relatively low (compared to other construction materials) heat loss to the outside often turns out to be unreasonably large for specific people. Each log or piece of coal in the stove, each revolution of the gas (electric) meter significantly increases operating costs. Insulate wooden walls it is not worth it from the inside, because the dew point is inside, the temperatures on the surface will change sharply, in addition, useful space is wasted.
To protect wood and insulation from the effects of extreme heat, it is recommended to install metal sheets, lay brick or use heat-resistant drywall. The insulation is applied to the boards in a continuous layer, and the frame is first mounted on the logs.
When building a bathhouse using frame technology, thermal protection is performed using slabs or mats. Rolled coating options are acceptable, but laying them out inside the frame is very difficult. Until recently, basalt wool was considered an absolutely safe coating, but since 2014 it has become clear that this is not so. When heated, the adhesive mixtures used to join the fibers may begin to release formaldehyde.
Chemists cannot say how great the danger is - research is still ongoing, but at least for the steam room it is better to use other options.
Frame bath It is perfectly insulated with the help of linen mats, which are made by simple pressing and do not contain the slightest artificial inclusions. At the same time, strong compression allows you to retain heat and stably maintain the originally created structure. Creating a classic type of wall cake, insulation material is exposed from the external boards to the interior finishing of the premises.
The outside of a bathhouse built using frame technology can only be insulated as an auxiliary technique. Typical thickness of materials layout is 5 and 10 cm; for buildings that will be used year-round, you need to take the largest number and fold it in half.
From foam blocks
Insulating foam concrete walls is a fairly simple matter, and even beginners in the field of construction can cope with it. There is no need to level the plane; it is ideal already at the moment when the blocks come off the conveyor. Outdoor thermal insulation of foam blocks is made using almost all existing materials; an exception is made for frankly inconvenient or impractical solutions. Most experts recommend placing it on insulation decorative plaster– it will not only improve appearance, but will also help enhance thermal protection. If the front finishing is done using siding, you still shouldn’t rely on the air gap, but use full-fledged insulation under the finishing strips.
Work on insulating a foam concrete wall is carried out simultaneously with its installation, and the first steps should be taken already during the construction of the foundation. It is permissible at this stage to use only those materials that tolerate excess moisture, temperature changes and the action of soil animals, rodents and insects.
The ideal solution It turns out to be polystyrene foam, moreover, it is easy to install and is relatively inexpensive. Cold, leaky floors in foam concrete baths are not insulated at all. Mineral wool is most often placed on top. There, evaporation will least leak inside, and at the same time the level of thermal protection will be higher than that of an identical loose layer. Considering the properties of foam blocks, all walls must be equipped with vapor barriers.
Brick
Brick baths are good quality and durable; for many decades they were practically the standard, and are still valued. But a decrease in fire danger and an increase in strength in comparison with wood results in significant heat consumption. Internal thermal protection in a brick bath is formed mainly with the help of an auxiliary wall along the main body. Alternatively, you can put two layers of roll or slab insulation. Smart builders combine these two options, especially in areas with harsh winters and strong winds.
In a brick bath, the thermal protection of the floor is done using expanded clay or foam; other means are rarely used. Vertical insulation of foundations using penoplex or polyurethane foam is not available for amateur builders; this must be done by specialists. A vapor barrier and thermal insulation are applied to the subfloor, then a reinforcing mesh is installed. It will be easy to form a cement screed using the mesh. When the tightening solution has dried, it is treated with waterproofing and laid out with ceramic tiles.
Floor installation and selection of tools
The work of arranging the floor in a bathhouse requires the use of a variety of tools. Since in most cases they are made of wood (this is especially true for steam rooms), you need to use a regular carpentry kit. The floor can be made with water passing through cracks or into one separate drain. This drain is directed in one direction, otherwise the stability of the water flow cannot be guaranteed. If the floor is formed without ducts, there is a permanent flooring underneath it, which must be replaced only at the end of its working life.
To make the surface warmer, the gutter and the drain leading into it are placed in the lowest place. The design of removable floors implies the possibility of periodic disassembly when the bathhouse is not in use. When forming the screed, you will need a cement trowel and special rakes, trowels and spatulas of various sizes. The evenness of structures is ensured using a level (hydraulic or laser).
Wood floors are created using a hammer, bench saw, electric plane, screwdriver and drill.
Types of insulation and requirements for them
The essential requirements for any insulation will be:
- minimal hygroscopicity;
- no release of harmful substances;
- optimal reflection of heat inside.
Among the high-tech developments, noteworthy "Penotherm". It can hardly be called a new option, but this is even a plus - there is already a relatively long experience of using it. As practice has shown, neither mineral coatings nor polyurethane foam can compare with this method of thermal protection. In baths and saunas it is used only in the form of sheets covered with foil on the outside. The “NPP LF” marking shows that the basis of the material is low-density polyethylene; A layer of aluminum helps to withstand stable heating up to 170 degrees.
“LP” – series, which is made from polypropylene foam in sheet format. This coating is not able to withstand temperatures above 60 degrees. Therefore, it can only be used for floors and walls in dressing rooms, rest rooms and dressing rooms, vestibules.
It is unacceptable to use “Penotherm”, labeled as “LE”, in sauna houses for technical reasons. Thermal protection functions stably when heated to 1500 degrees, without even losing its mechanical characteristics.
Any aluminum-based foil material has the following advantages:
- rapid heating of the internal volume;
- excellent thermal inertia;
- stable retention of steam flow.
According to statistics, up to 4/5 of the total heat volume is transferred indoors in the form of infrared rays. The aluminum screen becomes an impenetrable bastion for them and does not release precious thermal energy. Thanks to modern technologies foil can be single, double or even triple in composition. The common belief that the aluminum layer must be completely open for normal operation is completely erroneous. On the contrary, if finishing materials are placed outside - the same lining, their thermal qualities are noticeably increased.
What is important is that the air inside the bath is heated more evenly. But the foil must be glued directly to the base insulation layer, because otherwise the air gap will increase heat transfer. On top of stone walls, a metal reflector is best used with an overlap of stone wool or slab material.
It is important to remember that not every roll of special cotton wool sold in construction markets and stores is suitable for use in a bathhouse. Some manufacturers resort to cunning and, in order to increase resistance to water, use additives that are cheap but dangerous to human health.
Minvata in general, it is not afraid of fire and is considered one of the relatively safe materials. Covering it with foil on top further reduces even the small risk of toxins that still remain after finishing. The coating consistently withstands up to 200 heating and freezing cycles, and even after this there is no need to replace it. The total service life can reach 30 years, and the high mechanical strength will greatly please those who like to drill into bath walls and hang additional objects on them.
A prerequisite for installing cotton insulation is a high-quality sheathing.
The pitch of the supporting structure is determined in such a way that the heat-insulating boards fit inside freely, but are held tightly enough. Waterproofing is carried out using either a special type of foil, or polyethylene with a thickness of 150-200 microns, or using penofol. IN frame baths the waterproofing layer is made strictly of foil, and a lining is placed above it. The layer of basalt wool should be 6 cm. It is permissible to use kraft paper as a replacement for aluminum foil.
Foil can also be presented in foilizolon format- this is the name for polyethylene with a sprayed aluminum layer. The advantage of this coating is that it guarantees excellent noise absorption and is much stronger than its conventional counterpart. In addition, heat is contained not only by reflecting it, but also due to reduced permeability. The cost and environmental characteristics are primarily affected by the insulation that is used as the basis. It also determines resistance to aggressive influences, especially intense in the steam room.
It should be borne in mind that aluminum is an excellent conductor of electricity. Therefore, all wires in the walls will have to be insulated especially carefully. A high-quality lathing will help make the foil surface stronger and prepare the base for finishing. The permissible aluminum layer ranges from 30 to 300 microns. When using a properly calculated surface, it is possible to achieve the same effect as when constructing a thick and heavy log house.
Step by step instructions
It is very important to imagine how the thermal insulation from the inside will be formed step by step with your own hands. This is useful even when ordering the services of professional builders. Quite a lot of them, faced with insufficient control or poor competence of the customer, try to choose the easiest and most profitable paths for themselves. The first step in the work, regardless of the choice of traditional or ultra-modern insulation, is thorough preparation of the wall surface.
If mistakes are made at this stage, all subsequent actions have no meaning.
It is unacceptable to place polystyrene foam in the steam room; it emits substances that are extremely hazardous to health. According to the technology, the joints of slab insulation boards of any type should be glued with foil tape. It will form a sealed layer with a very high level of thermal protection. It is recommended to place slabs or rolls in the cells of the sheathing, which is assembled from wooden beam. The cross-section of this beam is determined by how powerful the thermal insulation should be (minus 10-20 mm from the actual value).
If you have to fill the wall with something loose, the bars are spaced 0.45-0.6 m apart from each other. The sheathing parts are attached to the wooden base using dowels or self-tapping screws; when there is stone, brick, concrete further away, only anchors help. In the first case, deepening the fasteners by 20-25 mm is enough, and they must go into the main walls by at least 40 mm. But it is not worth exceeding the value that is justified for securing a certain type of timber, this is only extra expense.
With the exception of basalt wool glued in production with aluminum foil, all materials require enhanced insulation from moisture.
Insulation over a concrete screed will require a whole range of additional elements. You will definitely need reinforcing meshes, special mixtures (ready-made or made up from primary components), and course-setting beacons. It is also impossible to do without a tape that absorbs thermal contraction and expansion, without polyethylene. Whether the floor is made of wood or concrete does not matter, but under concrete surface you need to sprinkle more expanded clay. The minimum excess is 100%, but if the total height of the room and material capabilities allow, you can even exceed this figure - it will be more reliable.
Before insulating the floor on the ground before marking, the following is required:
- compact all the soil in the desired area;
- impregnate the walls with waterproofing;
- pour 0.1 m of sand, fill with water and compact thoroughly;
- spread the roofing felt over the walls by 15 cm.
Single sheets of material are also laid with a mutual overlap of 0.15 m. The connection at the joints is ensured with construction tape (necessarily waterproof). The placement of guides on the subfloor is carried out in strict accordance with the prepared markings. These guides can be fastened in any way you choose, as long as it is reliable. Trying to do without guides is downright stupid, because even trained professionals use them.
Insulating the attic is even more important than insulating the facade. You cannot approach this work the same way you would in a regular home. After all, in a bathhouse, the upper part constantly concentrates water vapor. In most cases, they use:
- mineral wool;
- glass wool;
- foam;
- clay;
- sawdust;
- a combination of moss and wood ash (for walls and floors only).
As for polystyrene foam, it should be used only in extreme situations, when there is simply no other way to save money. The cheapest option is to use cut sawdust, which is also more environmentally friendly. Thin slats made of timber are laid across the boards, the distance between them is approximately 1 m. The vapor barrier is overlapped, the sheets are pulled over by approximately 20 mm. To obtain a suitable solution, 40-50 kg of clay is mixed with 200 liters of water; After adding sawdust, the mixture should become the same consistency.
Apply such a coating with a thickness of 80-100 mm, while compacting it slightly. You will have to be especially careful to lubricate the intersections of walls and ceilings. Gaps will inevitably appear there - and each of them will be filled. In a large bathhouse, sawdust can be easily replaced with expanded clay. You can also use garden soil or a mixture of black soil and peat in equal proportions.
Since the temperature in the washing room and dressing room, as well as in the rest room, is clearly lower than in the steam room, they can be insulated with foam plastic. It's relatively safe there, although it's still worth considering an alternative solution. If the choice is nevertheless made in favor of foam plastic, it is either glued (to brick and concrete) or placed in a padded frame. Considering the immunity of this material to water, it does not need to be covered with special films. All that remains is to do the finishing touches.
It is allowed to surround the furnace or boiler itself, the places where it adjoins other structures, only with basalt wool. The insulation in the basement of the bathhouse has its own characteristics. The ground floor is supposed to be insulated both outside and inside. If everything is done correctly, overall heat loss can be reduced by 10-15%. The most suitable solutions to this problem are traditional polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. These materials are not only minimally sensitive to water, which invariably circulates in the soil, but also perfectly resist external pressure.
But mineral wool is categorically not justified in this case. There is nothing to burn there, and given the high risk of destruction by moisture, you will have to create a complex waterproofing system that will absorb all the savings. When using polystyrene foam, although it masks deformations of up to 1 cm, it is better to correct such distortions, this will be more reliable. When leveling the base of a sauna with plaster, sometimes it is necessary to apply two or three layers; each should be laid only on a dried substrate.
Walls
Insulation of external walls is extremely rarely carried out separately. After all, it will then lead to improper distribution of heat throughout the material. The walls, floor and ceiling will warm up first, and only then will the air temperature begin to rise. This, of course, is not at all what is expected from a quality bath.
External thermal protection is required if the bathhouse is combined with residential building. It is logical to use it under finishing materials when there is an opportunity to improve the thermal qualities of the building. But in the case of non-residential baths, it’s worth considering whether this is really necessary. After all, even the most affordable thermal insulation greatly affects the personal budget. If the decision is made, layers of steam and wind protection will definitely be needed. The design will include:
- lathing;
- thermal protection;
- wind insulation;
- counter-lattice;
- final finishing layer.
Formally, there is no need for a counter-lattice. But any experienced craftsmen they install it to make it easier and faster to create a ventilation duct. The wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic. If installation is on a brick wall, it is advisable to use dowels; they compensate for the excessive rigidity of the structure and speed up installation. Foamed glass is technically perfect, but it turns out to be too expensive to use.
Facial selection finishing material limited only by considerations of aesthetics and personal taste.
Steam room: ceiling
Baths made of aerated concrete are built precisely because this material has an impressive level of thermal insulation. The design will last a long time and will release only a small amount of heat outside. In this parameter it comes close to the tree. But you still need to insulate the walls in the steam room with insulation in order to radically reduce the loss of expensive energy. Wood paneling turns out to be the most expensive solution for the ceiling of this room and absorbs a fair amount of height.
Foam glass ultimately becomes even more profitable than plank upholstery. In addition, it is superior to polystyrene foam (which it looks similar to) because it does not release toxins when heated significantly. Installation of such a covering is carried out using tile adhesive, and when choosing this adhesive, primary attention should be paid to its safety. The same adhesive composition will act as putty. It is not advisable to apply the mixture in excess; it will still be covered with clapboard.
Thermal protection of the steam room is often carried out with penofol. It is important to remember that it is only an addition to other coatings. High-quality work involves the installation of a package made of penoplex and penofol; the air gap from the foil to the front layer is 1.5 cm. Thanks to this gap, the retention of both heat and steam is improved. Polyurethane foam will help close the seams of the structure, and if you need to seal the intersections of the canvases, use tape for this.
If the sauna is built from logs, its thermal characteristics will be excellent. But this is not a reason to neglect modern technological solutions. A semblance of a “thermos” is necessarily created, and maximum attention is paid to the attic floor. This is precisely the weak link of log structures.
Before starting work, the tree is carefully inspected, problem areas are corrected and removed, and treated with antiseptics.
Floor
When the thermal insulation of the top is ensured, you can take on the base of the room. After all, even if the walls and ceiling are quite warm, but the floors are cold, this devalues all the work done. When using penoplex on joists you need:
- lay insulation between the elements on the subfloor;
- imitate a base (by laying cladding around the perimeter);
- create vents for ventilation (each minimum 0.05 sq. m);
- put a blind area on the perimeter to improve the discharge towards various drains and sediments.
Some believe that it is possible to impregnate wooden parts located on stilts with antiseptics. But the usual types of impregnations will evaporate already in the sixth or seventh year of use. Therefore, you should carefully choose the mixture and give preference to compounds that eat deeply into the wood. If the bathhouse is built on screw piles, even the most powerful floor insulation will not help ensure its normal operation. You will have to equip a fence and thereby prevent excessive ventilation of the underground.
Insulating a concrete floor with expanded clay is a real salvation for those who want to guarantee the environmental safety of the building. In addition, this material is relatively inexpensive and can be installed by anyone without expensive equipment. It is advisable to choose the lightest varieties: they are not only more convenient for transportation, but also more effectively block the escape of heat to the outside. There are three key working methods:
- wet;
- dry;
- mixed.
The dry method is practiced mainly in wooden buildings. The substance is poured into the gaps of the joists or beacons, and a subfloor is made on top. The waterproofing is always laid out at the bottom. Working in this way is easy and pleasant, the result is achieved quickly. The wet method involves mixing expanded clay with standard concrete mortar.
The insulation of bathhouse floors with penoplex has become quite widespread. The technology of work does not have any particular difficulties; moreover, it is quite accessible to any novice builder. At the bottom you will have to lay a substrate of sand and gravel or make a concrete floor. However, penoplex is ideal both on top of a rough wooden floor and as one of the parts of the “pie” of a warm floor. But the material cannot be placed on damp soil; it must dry thoroughly.
The bath floor is always equipped with a water drain, and this circumstance cannot be ignored when working on thermal insulation. Point drains with a square or rectangular configuration are small in size and can be placed anywhere. The slope for directing water into the drain is at least 1%; this is important not to miss when designing the floor pie. The optimal solution is compacted extruded polystyrene foam.
Openings
Even when all the surfaces in the bathhouse hold heat steadily, there is at least one problem area - the doorway. As soon as the first frosts begin or the winds blow, lapses in its insulation will have very serious consequences. Foamed polyethylene with an outer shell of foil will help to insulate the canvas and not overload it. In terms of specific gravity, it is comparable to paint and varnish materials. The jamb is upholstered either with felt or with more modern products, as long as they fit tightly to the surface and are soft to the touch and resistant to water.
Roof
Insulated ceiling, floor, doorway - very good. But there is one more heat release channel left, that is, the roof. A metal chimney pipe is usually routed through it, and steel, as you know, “perfectly” facilitates the “discharge” of funds spent on heating to the outside. In bathhouses with cold attics or in the absence of an attic, roof slopes and planes are not insulated. But if there is a residential attic upstairs, there can be no two opinions - thermal insulation is required.
The ceiling is insulated from the inside (from the steam room) using metallized film materials. When laying fiber thermal insulation, it must be covered with a waterproofing membrane that conducts the steam flow strictly in one direction. Floor insulation (with laying boards and filling them with expanded clay) is carried out only on a wooden ceiling.
In this case, the load should be calculated so that it does not exceed the bearing capacity of the walls and ceilings.
Warm floor system
Insulating the floor in the bathhouse by equipping it with heating circuits is a completely reasonable idea. Moreover, there are problems with obtaining hot water disappear by themselves. This measure is especially attractive when concrete is placed underneath, since it “pulls” heat very quickly. It is preferable to supply water to pipes made of polyethylene, steel alloys or metal-plastic. The spiral option for laying the pipeline is both simple and comfortable (heat will be distributed evenly over the entire surface).
The insulation of a bathhouse follows the same principles as the thermal insulation of a house. But elevated temperatures and significant humidity make it possible to use not all coatings suitable for ordinary rooms. So, among mineral wool it is definitely not harmful to use only the latest modifications, which are connected using biologically neutral acrylic. Peat blocks filled with sawdust or straw do not allow bacteria to grow, but they do absorb water. It is advisable to consider the option of cork mats - they are mechanically strong and do not become saturated with liquid, and they stop heat quite well.
If the bathhouse is insulated with natural materials, then it would be correct to treat them with special compounds that block the effects of insects, rodents and microorganisms. It is advisable to caulk log houses and timber with jute (flax). When insulating a bathhouse with brick walls, roll and slab products are most often placed in a steel frame with a zinc profile. The layer of mineral insulation on logs and beams can be limited to 80 mm (if there is no danger of severe frosts). In order for the insulator to retain its characteristics, it is taken 2-3 mm thinner than the cross-section of the bars.
To learn how and with what to insulate a bathhouse, see the following video.
Today, before starting construction of a bathhouse complex, every owner should ask himself how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside. The construction market offers dozens of options. The main thing is not to get confused and choose such insulation for a bathhouse so that it meets construction requirements.
Principles for choosing insulation
When buying material, you should pay attention to the most important signs of an effective product:
- environmental friendliness;
- maximum degree of moisture resistance;
- resistance to harmful microorganisms;
- the ability not to deform during long-term use;
- thermal conductivity index: the higher it is, the better;
- compatibility with building materials;
- minimum moisture absorption value;
- compliance with fire safety requirements, sanitary and epidemiological standards;
- ability not to accumulate condensate;
- ease of installation.
Types of insulation materials
Before you run around the shops and grab anything, you should understand the range of materials on offer.
Bath insulation can be organic or inorganic.
Organic materials
This includes a group of insulation materials that are made from natural raw materials:
- sheep wool or felt;
- jute;
- tow;
- heat-insulating materials from peat, reeds and wood shavings.
Main advantage natural materials– environmental cleanliness.
But insulating a bathhouse from the inside with their help has a number of disadvantages:
- Natural thermal insulation for the interior decoration of a sauna is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process.
- Natural insulation materials are short-lived and require regular updating.
- Flax, moss, felt, tow are a favorable environment for the life and reproduction of insects, rodents and other harmful microorganisms.
- They are suitable for dressing rooms and rest rooms, but are not suitable for thermal insulation inside hot rooms, even after additional treatment with fire retardants.
- Buying natural materials takes a significant toll on your wallet.
Inorganic or synthetic materials
There is no need to talk about absolute environmental friendliness here. Unlike natural ones, they will last for decades and provide better thermal insulation. Synthetic bath insulation is easy to install and is resistant to high humidity and hot air.
Inorganic thermal insulation materials are divided into several types:
1.Polymer insulation
The group of these materials includes polystyrene foam, foam plastic, and honeycomb plastic insulation.
Polystyrene foam is easy to use to insulate the sauna ceiling. It does not absorb moisture, practical and easy to handle.
A new product in the construction industry is foam glass, which embodies the best properties of foam plastic and stone wool. The material can be carved with a knife and attaches perfectly to the surface.
Despite the advantages, it is not recommended to insulate the ceiling inside a sauna with polystyrene foam. On the one hand, it is considered a fire hazard. On the other hand, as the air temperature increases, the foam deforms and releases bad smell, vapors of a toxic substance - phenol.
If you still decide to use polystyrene foam, then it is better to insulate the walls of the dressing room with it from the outside.
2.Basalt insulation for baths
Made from mountain wood, the material is used in recent years demand. It has a number of advantages:
- Not subject to combustion;
- Resistant to humid air;
- Does not deform under the influence of temperatures;
- Excellent sound and heat insulation;
- Service life up to 30 years;
- Does not cause any difficulties during the installation of finishing.
As for the disadvantages, there are none except for the cost of the material.
3.Mineral wool
The main difference between the technology for producing mineral wool and the production of insulation from basalt fibers is the use of inexpensive industrial waste.
This has a positive effect on the price of the material, but negatively on the mechanical strength of the insulation. Therefore, be extremely careful during the installation process.
Along with the disadvantages, mineral wool is not without advantages:
- Reliable thermal insulation;
- Not afraid of moisture;
- High degree of sound insulation.
4.Glass wool
Insulating a bathhouse with glass wool will cost no more than its analogues. And according to certain criteria, it is not inferior to other materials: it holds heat well and is easy to install.
A significant disadvantage of glass wool is its instability to hot air.
5.Foil insulation
To insulate the sauna ceiling, it is recommended to use materials that reflect light. Insulating mirrors have become widespread. Due to a special aluminum coating, they reflect and do not transmit heat through the ceiling. Foil insulation for a bathhouse is recommended to be used in combination with classic materials.
Insulation of the sauna
Having decided on the choice of one or two heat-insulating materials, proceed directly to work. Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands is a difficult process that requires skills in the construction industry. If you are confident in your abilities, then go for it. Otherwise, it is better to seek the help of specialists from the Marisrub company.
It should be noted that the process of thermal insulation of a wooden or brick sauna is almost the same. Therefore, there is no point in focusing on the insignificant difference.
Before you start insulating the walls, ceiling and floor, it is wise to take care of the vapor barrier. Even if you have chosen moisture-resistant insulation, during operation condensation will gradually begin to penetrate through the internal layers of the insulating material and have destructive effects.
To isolate the insulation from moisture, use aluminum foil. The solidity of the vapor barrier is achieved through metallized tape, which is used to glue the joints of the foil sheets.
We insulate floors
It is correct to start insulating a sauna not from the ceiling or walls, but from the floor. In the bathhouse it can be continuous or leaking. Considering that structures differ from each other, insulation of each type occurs differently.
It is better to use mineral wool. It is laid on a subfloor made of boards and covered with a layer of waterproofing. Last stage- filling the floor.
When installing leaking floors, dig a pit 50 cm deep and fill it with 5 cm of sand. After careful compaction, a 20-centimeter layer of insulation is laid - polystyrene foam, which is poured cement mortar with foam chips.
After drying, the concrete is covered with a layer of waterproofing, not forgetting the walls.
Then they are again filled with cement and vermiculite, a reinforcing mesh is laid out and covered with a layer of concrete with fine crushed stone. On at this stage the work makes a slope in the direction where the water will flow.
The work is completed by laying the finished floor on posts.
We insulate the walls
Insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside occurs in stages:
1.Using wooden slats or timber, we apply sheathing to the surface of the walls. The gap between the slats must be made smaller than the width of the heat-insulating material.
This is done so that the insulation fills the resulting spaces and prevents the formation of bridges for cold air. It is recommended to use mineral wool or basalt fiber slabs as insulation.
2. Having laid the heat insulator, cover it with any vapor barrier with foil. In this case, the reflective side of the aluminum surface is located inside the sauna.
The vapor barrier is placed between the slats and fixed to them.
Thermal insulation of the steam room walls is ready! Other sauna rooms are insulated using the same principle. Instead of foil for a vapor barrier, thick kraft paper for wrapping is suitable.
When insulating buildings made of bricks or blocks, it is recommended to increase the thickness of the basalt insulation so as not to lose heat.
We insulate the ceiling
Thermal insulation of the ceiling occurs by analogy with the principle of wall insulation.
According to the laws of physics, the closer you are to the ceiling, the hotter the air will be. Therefore, fire-resistant insulation is chosen for the ceiling. Mineral wool is perfect.
If there is an attic in the bathhouse, then a vapor barrier layer is made above the insulation - an aluminum film.
Insulation is placed under, above or between the rafters. If you're looking for the easy way out, lay a continuous layer of insulation between the rafters.
Finally, cover the heat-insulating material with a layer of waterproofing. Do not forget about the air gap of 20 mm. This is done taking into account the increase in insulation by a third of the width under the influence of moist air.
If there is no attic in the bathhouse, expanded clay is often used as insulation for the ceiling. A 25 cm layer of thermal insulation is poured onto the vapor barrier layer.
The construction market offers thermal insulation panels for insulating a bath room. The main advantage of the material is the possibility of refusing waterproofing, the minus is that they require a reliable vapor barrier layer.
Done correctly interior decoration Baths guarantee not only a pleasant stay in the company of friends, but also safety. Therefore, approach the selection of building materials and the performance of work with maximum responsibility.
For high-quality thermal insulation it is necessary to select the optimal materials:
- Mineral wool consists of rock fibers. It is considered the most durable among insulation materials. Cannot be damaged by rodents. Doesn't count favorable environment for the life of pests.
- Ecowool suitable for those who want to make a bath entirely from non-harmful environment materials. To insulate the steam room, you will have to call craftsmen who will use a blowing machine to apply ecowool to a horizontal surface.
- Expanded polystyrene, in addition to thermal insulation qualities, does not allow water to pass through. Pests cannot live in it.
Ceiling insulation
Pre-prepared roll paper is attached to a cleaned ceiling surface. The sheets should overlap to improve sealing. The paper is securely fixed with wooden blocks. Their optimal diameter is 5x5 cm. Insulation material must be laid between them.
Aluminum foil covers each section of the ceiling bounded by wooden bars.
To secure this material more tightly, seal all joints and resulting gaps using aluminum adhesive tape.
This coating will protect the bath structure from loss of steam. When performing work, you need to ensure that the layer is continuous and condensation cannot get onto the ceiling. If necessary, aluminum foil can be replaced with wax paper. Small bars with a diameter of at least 2x3 cm are attached to the laid layer of waterproofing. The facing layer can be attached to them.
Wall insulation
The walls are being prepared to the application of insulating materials. It is necessary to thoroughly clean them from dirt and make the surface as smooth as possible. If cracks are found, they must be sealed with a special sealant or plaster.
A frame is being formed from wooden beams, which are nailed to the wall with anchors. Before fastening, the bars are treated with an antiseptic composition. The step between each element is determined by the width of the sheets thermal insulation material. The distance should be equal to the size of each strip of insulation or be slightly narrower so that the material is pre-fixed without additional fasteners.
A layer of insulation is laid between the frame elements. It is secured with anchors or specially provided materials.
In progress waterproofing. Suitable material is selected. Experts do not recommend using roofing felt, roofing felt and glassine for steam and waterproofing in a bathhouse. With constant contact of these insulation materials with steam, they emit unpleasant odors.
Foil materials are often used. They have a metal layer that can reflect infrared radiation. This type of vapor barrier is perfect for a bathhouse, as it creates a “thermos” effect. Especially common are polymer sheets or mineral wool, which are coated with a thin layer of aluminum.
Plates or rolls are prepared for application, the necessary fragments are cut out. The material is pulled well onto the bars. Usually fixed with a construction stapler.
Small slats are placed on top of the waterproofing. They are needed for subsequent installation of the lining. It is recommended to purchase this material made from hardwood.
It should be remembered that the facing boards must be attached joint to joint, without leaving the slightest gaps, since steam can leak through them abundantly.
Floor waterproofing
In order to avoid heat escaping and moisture seeping into the thermal insulation, which can irreparably damage it, waterproofing is mandatory. Depending on the material from which the floor is made, the methods of applying it vary.
Can be done quickly and easily waterproofing concrete floor:
- Any irregularities must be completely eliminated. There should be no holes, no bumps, or the slightest cracks.
- The entire horizontal surface is covered with an even layer of bitumen mastic. You need to wait until it dries completely.
- A polyethylene film is laid. If the owners decide to use roofing felt, they need to take care of the sealed installation of the cladding layer.
- You can lay it on top of the waterproofing material ceramic tiles or other coating.
Laying waterproofing for a wooden floor:
- A mineral wool mat is applied to the foundation floor. Its thickness should be at least 15 cm.
- The logs are attached. They must first be treated with an antiseptic composition, since they must be protected from fire, the possibility of rotting, and insects must not be allowed to settle in them.
- Roofing felt or euroroofing felt is fixed to the bars mechanically, using slats and nails.
- A subfloor is created on which a layer of insulation is installed.
- The surface is completely covered with clapboard without leaving any gaps.
- The floorboards are fastened end to end.
How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse
Important to pay attention on the correctness of the door design. The canvas must be absolutely smooth, no cracks are allowed. If the slightest gaps remain, heat and steam will easily escape to other rooms. The door itself is made of a material that does not conduct heat. Experts advise using a glass door.
Windows can cause heat loss, so you need to be careful when installing them.
It is recommended to choose double, preferably triple, glazed windows that will retain heat in the room. The windows in the steam room should not be located at the very top, since all the steam rises there and can gradually escape through them.
Ceiling vapor barrier from the attic side
Moisture condensation may form in the insulation layer, which will inevitably lead to the loss of its basic thermal insulation qualities. Some insulation materials, such as mineral wool, quickly absorb evaporating moisture, but release it very slowly. To protect the insulation from moisture, it is necessary to take care of complete vapor barrier.
- Gaps between the ceiling beams must be eliminated. The tongue and groove boards or blocks are hemmed to the main ones, closing the gaps.
- On the attic side, the boards are covered with a dense waterproofing layer of aluminum foil or wax paper.
- For a more reliable vapor barrier, clay is applied in an even layer from 2 to 4 cm thick.
- When the clay dries completely and hardens, insulation is laid on it.
High-quality vapor barrier important not only for eliminating the release of heat and steam. Wooden boards baths from excess moisture over time succumb to rot. For wooden structures Sealed hydro- and vapor barriers are mandatory.
Proper insulation of a steam room in a bathhouse will allow its owners not to worry about the unnecessary release of heat and steam from the room. The bathhouse will operate as intended. The owners will be able to save on heating materials, and guests will have no reason to find out about the reason for the rapid disappearance of steam.
